How to fix a laminate that is swollen with water. Why does the laminate swell at the joints. What to do if the laminate is swollen: a step-by-step solution to the problem What to do if the laminate is swollen

Laminated parquet, like any other floor covering, is deformed under the influence of certain factors (swells, warps, twists, etc.). It is not difficult to find out the cause of the appearance of defects, much more work will have to be done on how to eliminate the swelling of the laminate.

Laminate flooring is successfully operated in any premises, except for wet ones. For baths, laundries and similar rooms, there are special finishing materials made of PVC, composite, ceramics. Even special installation systems have been developed that allow you to assemble a waterproof canvas. Such products are not cheap, but we will talk about the traditional coating.

As practice shows, even under acceptable conditions, the laminate can swell after installation. And there are several reasons for that:

Mounting errors

The floor covering is deformed due to the absence or insufficient expansion gaps around the perimeter of the room. Simply put, the floor expands with increasing humidity, rests against the wall and individual planks begin to rise. Both the locks and the stove are damaged.

Swelling of the laminate due to the lack of expansion gaps.

According to the manufacturers' recommendations, the optimal size of the expansion joint is 8-10 mm. The master can generally forget or justify himself by the fact that the gap will not close with a plinth. Recall: the minimum width of a decorative strip made of MDF, PVC or wood is 18 mm or more - up to 4 cm, depending on the height and design of the product. Therefore, this is either banal laziness, or complete ignorance of the laying rules and unwillingness to read the instructions attached by the factory to each pack.

The second reason that defects appear in the first few months after laying the laminate is increased residual moisture of the base. The moisture content must not exceed:

  • 4% for floor slabs,
  • 5% for cement-sand screeds,
  • 12% for a board, plywood or chipboard base.

Swelling at the joints due to high humidity of the base.

If you are inattentive to this rule, then soon you will find the floor swollen in places.

A third possible factor could be underlayment too thick. Some pseudo-experts claim that the surface can be leveled very cheaply and quickly - with the help of a substrate rolled up in several layers. Let's think logically what can happen with a coating that actually "walks":

  • Too soft bottom layer does not create an even, solid base and springs like a rubber trampoline.
  • Lock joints are not designed for such a backlash, they loosen, creak and break.
  • The result is a creaking, raised floor in places with crumbled locks.

Laminate with locks damaged due to thick backing.

In this form, it is difficult to restore it - you will need a master with a huge amount of knowledge and colossal work experience. It is easier to completely remove and lay a new one according to the instructions.

Incorrect operating conditions

Installation was carried out in accordance with all the rules, but your laminate is swollen - what to do? Check if water gets into the joint area. If the floor is laid in the corridor in front of the front door, in the opening of the bathroom or in the kitchen near the sink, then it can rise precisely because of regular moisturizing. And the amount of liquid is not so important. Of essential importance is the very fact of the interaction of the coating with moisture, whether it be a flood or leaking pipes.

Laminate bulging from water splashes.

We note one more factor: a laminate floor made according to all the rules may swell due to high relative humidity. According to operational standards, the optimal value of this indicator varies from 40% to 60%. For some regions (Primorye, North Caucasus), the average annual rate is 80-90%. In this case, it is recommended to purchase products with enhanced moisture resistance characteristics, such as:

  • The density of the plate is not less than 800 kg / m 3;
  • Water absorption coefficient no more than 7%;
  • Processing of lock joints with special compounds, etc.

Poor quality products

There is another answer to the question “why the laminate was swollen” - a product of an unknown manufacturer of dubious quality was purchased. Is different:

Carrier low density board- up to 700 kg / m 3. It’s easy to check - try bending or scratching the lock connection with your fingernail. True HDF board is very strong and dense to the touch, without the slightest sign of friability. The structure is homogeneous, without foreign inclusions, does not spring when compressed, does not bend in the area of ​​pressure when trying to break it with fingers.

Even wax impregnation will not save poor-quality laminate from water.

Weak top layer- overlay. According to manufacturers, laminate flooring can withstand a lot: office chair wheels, heels, animal claws, and more. In addition, with proper care, it will last at least 10 years. But if the protective coating is of poor quality, it is easy to damage, scratch or remove completely. Sometimes buyers use keys, cloves to check, but the best way to test is to put the lamella on the floor and walk on it, jump. Then lift and carefully examine the bar. The absence of traces indicates that the product is resistant to shock and mechanical stress.

Too soft or uneven interlocks. If two planks are easily connected, without the slightest effort and characteristic clicks, then they will diverge just as soon. Another thing is when the lamellas are joined with difficulty, with additional effort. Take a close look at the locks. There should be no crooked cuts, bends or cutouts - an exceptionally flat plane without flaws.

Poor-quality laminate flooring, according to installers, is very difficult to install. It is capricious in assembly, requires additional grinding and fitting. Quickly swells and swells from the slightest splash of water, darkens after wet cleaning and fades in open areas. Service life is estimated at 3-5 years. There is only one way to correct defects - complete dismantling and disposal.

Swollen laminate: how to fix

Damaged coating is not always recoverable. If the cause is installation errors, then most often you can get by with economical ways to restore the floor:

  • If there are no compensation gaps around the perimeter, then they can be carefully cut with a jigsaw. A correctly made seam is completely covered with a plinth.

  • With increased residual moisture, the laminate must be completely removed, laid out in a ventilated dry room. Apply a waterproofing primer to the base or spread a film, a new substrate, and only then mount the floor again.

Remember that lock joints stretch over time. Therefore, when dismantling, it is necessary to write a number on the reverse side of the plates with a marker in order to subsequently assemble the coating in the same order.

  • If swelling appears due to an incorrectly chosen thickness of the substrate, then this means that the locks are already damaged, the strips must be removed and discarded. It is better to buy a few more packs from the same batch along with a new underlayment. If you can't find it, pick it up by shade and stick it on.

Tips “remove the bar from an inconspicuous place, such as under a sofa or closet, and rearrange it” is better to ignore. A tight joint will not work in any case, besides, the coating, as a rule, fades a little in the light, the difference will be obvious.

  • Planks that have risen due to water ingress can be left untouched for some time (up to 3 months). Laminate from well-known factories often returns to normal on its own. But if it deteriorates more and more over time, it is more rational to remove the damaged area and replace it with a new one. How this is done is well demonstrated in the video below.

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There may be several reasons why the laminate on the floor of the apartment suddenly swelled up, most often it is the result of prolonged soaking or contact with moisture. But, in any case, regardless of the reasons for the swelling of the laminate in the apartment, you need to respond to the problem immediately, without putting it off and not planning to repair the flooring for a couple of weeks in advance.

Laminate is well protected from accidental drops of water

Why does laminate bulge?

The swelling of the floor covering is always striking. The panels begin to clap underfoot, and the laminate itself swells at the seams, so it is almost impossible not to notice. Another thing is the reasons why the laminate swelled. Depending on how and why the underlayer of pressed cellulose fibers swelled, it depends whether it is possible to save the swollen laminate without resorting to dismantling the coating, or whether a major overhaul of the floor with dismantling is still required.

There can be several reasons for damage to the lamellas:

  • Improper laying of the material, violation of the rules for the care of the floor covering. If the laminate swells after laying, without signs of flooding or blocking, then this clearly indicates the absence of waterproofing or compensating gaps between the lamellas. If the layer is swollen within the warranty period, then you will have to invite working craftsmen to re-lay the coating;
  • There was a puddle of water on the floor for a long time. The laminate is swollen with water, but in a relatively small area of ​​coverage. If the material is very swollen, and the lamellas are separated, then it is quite possible to replace several panels with new ones. Usually it is possible to eliminate damage without re-laying the entire web;
  • Flooding of the apartment. If it was possible to collect water from the floor within an hour from the moment of the accident, then the risk of damage is reduced by an order of magnitude.

Important! Even if the laminate is slightly swollen at the seams, this does not mean disaster. Quality material class "33" can withstand being wet for several hours.

Often, in addition to the reasons why the laminate is swollen, photo, the nature and level of care for the lamellas affects the state of the “recessed” coating.

Incorrectly laid laminate bulged

If the floor was regularly treated with protective mastics, then the chances for the lamellas to survive after the flood increase significantly. It is much easier to restore such a laminate after swelling, since, due to the presence of a protective mastic or wax film, water penetrates deep into the cellulose base only through the most loaded and worn lock joints. Old floors of high-quality laminate coating are used even in the country for gazebos and covered terraces.

Mastic makes the surface water-repellent

In order for the floor to completely swell, you need to try very hard, regularly fill it with water and completely abandon surface care. Usually, for a well-maintained floor, a little flooding is limited to eliminating the swelling of the laminate at the joints.

How to repair a swollen laminate without disassembly

If the coating has stood in a humid environment for several days, then it is almost impossible to solve the problem without replacing the lamellas. It happens that even a thoroughly wet laminate can be dried in a single room, subject to four conditions:

  • There is no furniture in the room;
  • There are no drafts in the room, and the existing heating devices can be adjusted or turned off;
  • As a substrate, a canvas of pressed needles is used;
  • The coating is laid on wooden floors, under which there are full-fledged products.

If the laminate is not bulging, then you can try to dry the coating through the air in the floor. To do this, the baseboards are removed and the underfloor space is blown through the windows with air at room temperature with a fan. No heaters or irons.

First of all, remove the remaining water

Important! The simplest method of drying, in addition to removing moisture, allows you to get rid of the musty smell and at the same time eliminate the conditions for the formation of mold fungus.

Many experts believe that drying lags and floor beams should be done in any case, even if the laminate coating is swollen and has become unusable. In other cases, for example, when laying on concrete or OSB, it will be possible to restore a swollen laminate from water only with a small area of ​​blockage.

What to do if the laminate is swollen from water

The design of the flooring is such that the layer of lamellas, when properly installed, is on the floor in a free state. Due to this, the difference in humidity and temperature of the material does not affect the floor surface in any way. If the laminate is wet and bulging, this means that some of the fibers remain wet, and some have already dried out or remained untouched by moisture.

An example of a cheap laminate bulge

  • First of all, remove, as far as possible, the furniture from the room;
  • Remove skirting boards;
  • At a distance of 10-20 cm from the wall, a lock is cut with a sharp knife along the joint line and the edge of the lamella is raised or completely removed to ensure the drying of the substrate.

Do not worry too much about the removed panels, this is the only possible way to remove residual water under the coating. In addition, if you remove a couple of lamellar strips along the walls, this will help to partially align and upset the joints where they are swollen.

Separately, you need to specify how to properly remove water and restore the laminate after swelling. Firstly, it is undesirable to heat the room, it will not help to remove moisture, but will only worsen the situation. If somewhere the material has not yet swelled, then it will definitely rise, and besides, with moisture and high temperatures, the laminate easily arches. It is important not only to dry the floor, it is necessary to preserve the geometry of the panels, to prevent them from stratifying and deforming.

Some of the slats will need to be removed.

Secondly, if the laminate is already swollen, then you need to dry the room with a small draft. For example, you can install a fan with a capacity of 150-200 m 3 / h, this will be enough to get rid of water in two days. For example, the floor version of a household fan has a performance 2-3 times higher. It can also be used, but at the lowest speed, and you need to put it at the maximum distance from the areas where the floor is most swollen. After 10-15 hours of drying, you should try to level the swollen laminate. For this, the raised sections are loaded with oppression. A load of 10-15 kg / m 2 will be required. Everything is used, from books to sports equipment, the main thing is that the pressure on the points where the floor is swollen is uniform.

What to do if the laminate is swollen at the joints

The end lock, which connects the two panels, remains the most vulnerable point. If the front and back surface of the laminate board is covered with polyurethane and vinyl film, then the end with a groove or spike is exposed to water and absorbs most of the spilled moisture. Water penetrates a few millimeters inside, but this is quite enough for the lock elements to swell and deform under bursting pressure. If, during the drying process, the areas of the laminate that are swollen are not loaded, then the surface will remain wavy due to deformed locks.

There are models of laminate locks, in the design of which there are silicone inserts that seal the temperature gap and protect the joint from water leakage. The system is relatively new, expensive, but has already proven its effectiveness for kitchen and bathroom conditions.

It is important to gain access to the inner surface of the locks

Elimination of swelling of the laminate at the joints begins with the opening of the lock. With a non-sharp object, you need to separate the spike and groove in order to get maximum access to the end surface. The line along which the laminate layer is swollen is dried with a building hair dryer with the heating element turned off. Experts recommend that places where the laminate is swollen should be fixed without disassembly with an iron only as a last resort. For example, there was a delamination of the material. In this case, the lock and cracks at the end are treated with an aqueous PVA emulsion and dried with an iron through a heat-resistant cloth.

There are many exotic, but in their own way effective recipes. For example, moisture from a castle in a place where the floor is swollen can be easily removed with calcined table salt. Fine purified salt is calcined in a metal dish on a gas burner, allowed to cool slightly and poured onto a fabric substrate along the joint. It turns out troublesome, but effective. To completely eliminate the swelling of the laminate at the joints, the procedure will need to be repeated several times in combination with the use of oppression.

Complete replacement of swollen laminate flooring

If the measures taken did not give the desired result, then you have to resort to re-laying or replacing the coating. Before disassembling the floor, it is allowed to dry slightly to facilitate the opening of the end locks. The slats are dismantled and simultaneously sorted according to the degree of damage. Boards with broken locks, depending on the condition of the surface and the degree of deformation, are sent to the scrap or used for laying in the least critical places. Those areas that are the most swollen, but do not have cracks and delaminations, are slightly moistened, shifted with thick paper and laid under oppression on a flat surface. Drying and leveling will take about two weeks.

The laminate is dismantled if it is swollen more than 20% of the surface

When re-laying boards that are swollen and have lost their original geometry, they are fixed in inconspicuous places, under furniture or under a baseboard. Most often they have to be fixed to the floor with dowels and glue. In this case, you can use an iron and glass cloth tape. The remaining lamellas are laid in the usual manner. In any case, the lining material must be disposed of and replaced with a new one.

If the grooves and spikes are so swollen that it is not possible to make a full-fledged connection, then part of the end is cut off with a knife so as to align the joint and make it as even as possible. Such areas on the locks after laying must be glued with polyurethane.

Prevention of swelling of the laminate

It is generally accepted that expensive brands of laminate flooring with special wax impregnation of the seams remain immune to spilled water. On the one hand, indeed, the measures provided by the manufacturer are quite effective. In order for such a laminate to swell, it must either be completely flooded with water for 5-7 hours, or the appearance of water condensate on the concrete base of the floor.

Since the protection in the locks slowly but surely wears out during the operation of the laminate coating, in about 3-4 years such a laminate will correspond to the usual home coating in terms of water resistance.

Polishing with mastic protects and improves the appearance of the coating

Therefore, the laminate floor at the joints must be treated with protective mastic at least once a year. It is best to seal the line under the skirting boards with transparent silicone, for example, "Cerezit CS15". The strength and reliability of the seam is enough to hold the coating, even if the laminate is wet and slightly swollen.

Evaporation of moisture under the laminate can be avoided by treating the OSB or concrete with an acrylic primer.

Coating Prevention

First of all, you need to choose the right lining material. The best option is considered to be a lining made of pressed needles, it passes water vapor well, therefore, even if an emergency occurs and the lamellas are swollen, it is much easier to dry and tidy the floor on needles than on foamed polypropylene or fashionable cork cloth.

If you have to re-lay the floor, then the coniferous or PP lining will have to be changed, cork panels can be shifted with paper and dried outside under a canopy. The cork does not absorb moisture well, but it collects odors well, therefore, after dismantling, the expensive material is cleaned with clean water with the addition of hydrogen peroxide.

The resistance of the laminate to leakage largely depends on the quality of the assembly of the lamellas and the tightness of the tenon in the groove. The lock device itself is such that even with a small amount of water, the material swells and "tightly" blocks the penetration of moisture under the lamella. Therefore, on a properly laid laminate, even if the seams are swollen in some places, the cellulose boards remain dry. Of course, if the laminate is already more than a decade old, the protective film and locks are pretty worn out, then even a small amount of water can swell the fiber.

Laminate has a simple installation technology, which makes it the most popular flooring. The preparation of the floor and the flooring of the material can be performed by an ordinary person - the main thing is to study the instructions and follow the manufacturer's recommendations.

The coating does not require special care, but problems may arise during daily use. The laminate swells along the butt joint, warps it and the lock joint breaks.

What to do if the laminate is swollen and how to correct this error. Consideration of this issue should begin with the main causes of the formation of such damage.

Why the laminate is swollen - causes and consequences

According to the standard instructions from the manufacturer, the laminated board is laid on a pre-prepared rough base - a wooden floor or a concrete base.

The work surface must be clean, dry and level. Maximum height deviations must not exceed 2 mm. In the absence of professional equipment, residual moisture is checked experimentally - polyethylene is glued to the floor surface and checked in a day.

If moisture has settled on it in the form of condensate, then the rough base is damp and takes time to dry naturally. This simple method is also used when working with other floor coverings.

Moisture and water are the most common causes of floor swelling.

The most common reasons why laminate swells include the following:

  1. Poor quality - the selected laminate does not meet international standards and has not been certified. As a result, the stacked panels do not withstand the load exerted during operation.
  2. The preparation technology is violated - as noted above, the rough surface was not properly prepared. Laminate flooring has accumulated moisture from evaporating moisture from the concrete screed or plank floor, causing warping or swelling.
  3. Non-compliance with laying technology - during the installation of panels, technological standards were not observed. Incorrectly set or completely missing expansion gap between the panel and the ceilings.
  4. Moisture accumulation and water absorption - moisture got from the outside and absorbed into the porous structure. Someone spilled a liquid, there was a slight flood, problems with central heating, high humidity in the room, inappropriate maintenance or wet cleaning.

These problems are the most common. Before correcting swelling, you need to find out its cause. This will ensure that in the future, after repairing the damage, the laminate will not deteriorate again.

Bloating from water will require drastic measures - you need to completely change the damaged lamella, since the current state cannot be corrected. The problem of laminate swelling due to pressure can be solved by increasing the expansion gap.

Correcting flaws in installation technology

Warping of the laminate at the joints occurs due to a discrepancy between the technological gap between the last row of panels and the wall. The distance from the panel to the ceiling must be at least 1 cm along the perimeter of the room.

In rooms with high humidity or buildings located in regions with sharp temperature changes during the year, the gap can be increased to 1.5 cm. Moreover, such a space is easily closed with a baseboard or any other decorative element.

General steps for creating a gap for already laid laminate

The sequence of actions to correct swelling will consist of the following steps:

  1. Carefully dismantle the plinth around the perimeter of the room. We carefully examine and measure the size of the compensation gap. Lack of distance or abutting panels will be visible to the naked eye.
  2. For a laminate with a locking system, we raise the lamella at an angle of 45 degrees and pull out all the panels in a row. Next, we mark the missing gap along the abutting edge and cut off the excess with a jigsaw or any convenient tool.
  3. For a laminate with an adhesive connection system, we mark up directly on the floor, since it will not be possible to remove such panels without breaking the connection. After using a manual grinder, cut off the excess.
  4. In places of swelling, gently press on the panel to eliminate warping. If the lamella does not lend itself, then you will need to loosen the connection and shift the panel. To do this, we use a special “suction cup” or a glass jack. Expose the tool and drag the panel up. Next, re-mount the lamella in place.
  5. We mount the prepared panels according to the technology. We expose the panels at an angle, gently lower them until they click. If necessary, we hammer with a hammer, setting the metal bar in advance.

At the end, we check the gap, install the skirting boards in place, lay all the necessary communications, etc.

Panel replacement without row dismantling

Correct swelling without disassembly is possible only if there are remains of the laminate. Panels will be required to replace damaged lamellas, which will be dismantled and replaced with a new canvas.

This method is well suited for adhesive laminate, parquet, parquet board, plank floor, etc. That is, when it is not possible to dismantle the existing cladding.

To carry out the work, you will need a manual grinder, electric jigsaw, construction knife, chisel, hammer, glass jack, sealant or glue for laminate. It is desirable to have a small piece of the substrate, which may be required due to damage due to sawing of the lamella.

Brief illustration on replacing a damaged lamella

The technology of work will look like this:

  • if the locking laminate was laid, then we fix the glass jack on the panel being dismantled and adjacent to it. With the help of a partner, gently lift or pull the panel up until the lock partially opens. After we lower it into place and fix it until it clicks;
  • in the case of a water-damaged panel, it will be necessary to dismantle it. To do this, mark a small perimeter inside the panel. That is, we reduce the size of the canvas by a few centimeters and apply markings. Next, along the contour, we cut out a piece of canvas with the help of a grinder. From the end edge we make a cut to the width of the panel;
  • to dismantle the cut out element, we use a chisel and a hammer. We hook the canvas with a chisel and pull out the cut section. After we loosen the connection along the end cutout, remove the remaining parts;
  • we knock a row of 10-15 mm to the wall. Next, we set the chisel at an angle of 30-45 degrees and knock out the remaining parts from the side of the butt. We retreat 3-5 cm and make cuts inside the element. We dismantle pieces of canvas and remove debris;
  • cut the lock connection as shown in the video below. That is, for the stacked panels, you need to cut off the upper part of the “groove”, and for the new one, the lower one. Lubricate the connected elements with glue;
  • after we set the panel at an angle and lower it to the floor. With the help of glass suction cups, we lift the adjacent panel so that the rest of the protruding element falls into the partially cut “groove”. Gently lower the panels to the floor and press down with something heavy.

A detailed illustration of how to fix swelling without disassembly can be seen in the video. This approach will greatly facilitate the process of replacing damaged canvases, since it is not necessary to completely dismantle the row.

Protection of the laminate from moisture and water

If the laminate has gone “bubbled”, the front and decorative layers are swollen, then the damaged lamellas cannot be done without partial disassembly or complete replacement. But repair work can be prevented by performing preventive maintenance in time and protecting the laminate from moisture.

To do this, use a special wax, which is applied to the joints between the lamellas and prevents moisture from entering the space between the locks. You can buy the tool in specialized construction stores.

Seam Protection Wax Aqua Stop

The average price for a laminate lock protector starts at 400-500 rubles per 500 ml. This is quite enough for processing joints on a surface of 10-12 m2.

The application process is quite simple: clean the laminate from dirt, apply the product along the length of the joint, press in a small amount of wax with a spatula, clean the place with a dry, clean rag until the composition is completely removed.

As a result, the composition will remain only in a small space between the lamellae. This method is not a panacea, but it will avoid the ingress of large amounts of water into the lock connection.

If necessary, you can purchase a special polish that is applied to the entire surface of the floor and creates a thin polymer film that repels moisture and allows you to quickly remove water from the surface of the floor covering.

Laminate flooring is one of the most popular flooring today. It has many advantages: modern and aesthetic appearance, durability, a huge variety of types and qualities. But even when choosing a high-quality coating, you may encounter some problems. For example, shortly after installation, the laminate was swollen, how to find out the cause and, most importantly, how to fix the swelling of the laminate, let's try to figure it out in this article. There may be several reasons.

Causes of swelling of the laminate after laying

Technological violations during installation


Moisture ingress

This refers to prolonged contact with water, for example, a burst of pipes, batteries, or the use of water in unlimited quantities when cleaning. As a result, swelling and deformation of the web may occur.

Poor quality coating material

When purchasing cheap products, you need to understand what problems there may be in the future. The repair fee can be much more than for previously purchased inexpensive, but low-quality material.

If the laminate is swollen from water, what to do

Carefully remove the panels that have changed shape, deformed. Then carefully inspect the lamellas, the substrate. If water is present under the boards, it is necessary to wipe it dry and replace the substrate. If all this is done quickly, then the boards will fall into place and soon take the correct shape. This is not the case with cheap material, which absorbs moisture like blotting paper and swells quickly.

How to repair a swollen laminate? If it has been a long time since the water hit, it is necessary to replace the damaged panels. Difficulty will arise in the selection of replacement panels if the initial laying was carried out several years ago.

Advice: If you do not have spare boards left "in reserve" after the first laying, remove those that are in inconspicuous places (under a cabinet, sofa, etc.). And under the sofa, put a laminate slightly different from the desired shade.

How to fix laminate swelling due to a violation of the installation process

It is possible to correct the deformation of the flooring that has arisen due to the lack of gaps between the walls and the boards. It is necessary to remove obstacles for the expansion of the lamellas. If they rest against the wall, they should be carefully cut. Sequencing:

  1. Remove plinth.
  2. Mark with chalk the places where the board rests against the wall.
  3. Trim the marked areas leaving a gap between the wall and the panel of approximately 15mm. The resulting gap should be completely closed in the future with a plinth.

This problem can arise from heating pipes. The distance from the pipe to the coating board is recommended to be the same size, approximately 15mm.

Advice: the door latch should not be fixed on the lamellas - this will lead to their deformation in the future. For proper installation of the latch, cut a hole in the laminate and mount it to the floor screed.

It is much easier and more correct to avoid the problems of deformation of the laminated coating than to be tormented by the question: how to save the swollen laminate after the problem has arisen. Try to follow the advice:


It is useful to use a special wax that will help protect the floor from damage due to wet cleaning or spilled water. Clean the floor surface from dust and dirt. Apply a small amount of the product with a spatula to the joints of the panels. After waxing, polish the floor with a soft, dry cloth. The polishing procedure is repeated after a few hours. After it, refrain from walking on the floor for 10 hours. Know that wax fumes are harmful, so wear a respirator and ventilate the room.

As you already understood, there is no need to panic if the laminate is swollen. How to repair a swollen laminate, we hope, it also became clear. If, nevertheless, you doubt that the acquired knowledge and skills are enough for you to carry out this repair, then invite a specialist who can professionally correct the situation.

We wish you to follow our recommendations so that this problem never touches you, and the laminate serves you for a long time and faithfully.

The most popular, affordable and suitable coating quality. The service life and preservation of its quality are guaranteed if the laying is carried out in compliance with the requirements for installation, and the floor is operated according to the instructions for the laminate. If the rules and requirements are violated, swelling of the laminate is possible. This is the most common coating defect.

Causes of swelling

  1. There is not enough room for thermal expansion of the coating.
  2. Swelling of boards from high humidity.
  3. Poor quality laminate.

Thermal swelling

It occurs when the laying rules are not followed, when there is no necessary damping gap between the lamellas and walls, water pipes and other fixed structures.

Temperature swelling warning

When laying a laminate, a gap of 15–20 mm is required between the wall and the coating, between heating pipes, water supply and other fixed structures and the laminate, since the material expands with increasing temperature, humidity, and seasonal changes in operating conditions.

Elimination of thermal swelling

  1. Remove skirting boards.
  2. Take out the extreme lamellas (you can not take them out).
  3. Cut the edge with a jigsaw or hacksaw (at the removed lamella), chisel or cleaver (in place) from the side adjacent to the wall by 1.5–2.0 cm. The same procedure is performed with boards adjacent to heating pipes, water supply and other fixed structures .
  4. The removed trimmed lamellas are carefully installed in place.
  5. The plinths are re-installed.
  6. The laminate should straighten out in 3-4 days.

Low quality laminate

High-quality laminate - does not mean expensive. In an apartment, it is advisable to use a laminate of 32-33 wear resistance class from well-known manufacturers. In this case, it is imperative to take into account the operating conditions of the floor and the compliance of the coating class with these conditions.

There is only one way to eliminate the cause of swelling of a low-quality laminate: replacing defective sheets with new ones. If there is no material in stock, you can buy lamellas similar in color and texture. A more radical solution to the problem is to replace the entire coating with a better one.

To repair individual sections of the floor, it is dismantled (marked with chalk), starting from one of the walls, and new ones are laid instead of defective canvases. Then they collect everything in the reverse order.

For the sale of low-quality goods from the seller, you can return money through Rospotrebnadzor or the court. To do this, you need to invite independent experts, conduct an examination of the cause of floor swelling, draw up an act and sue the seller. This way you will be able to get your money back and possibly compensation for installation costs. Keep receipts and invoices, this will help in a legal dispute with the seller.

Swelling from moisture

There are several reasons for the swelling of the laminate from moisture:

  1. The floor is not treated with a water repellent.
  2. Increased indoor humidity.
  3. Fluid leaked into the joints.
  4. There is no waterproofing between the screed and the coating.

High room humidity

In rooms with high humidity (kitchens, bathrooms, showers), a special waterproof laminate is laid. The surface of the coating is also treated with water-repellent compounds. Eliminate swelling on a conventional laminate, laid in a room with high humidity, is possible only by completely replacing the coating with a new one. Choose a material that matches the operating conditions of the floor.

To normalize humidity (less than 79%), you can purchase a home weather station. They are sold in stores. But it’s better not to complicate your life, but to apply the coating according to the operating conditions.

Leakage of liquid in lock joints

This is the most common cause of laminate swelling. It is possible to completely flood the floor in case of accidents in the networks or due to the negligence of neighbors, as well as local bays for a variety of reasons.

The first thing to do in such cases is to immediately remove all water from the floor. With a total flood, swelling of the entire floor is possible; with local bays, 2-3 adjacent lamellas are usually damaged. To prevent such swelling, the interlocks are treated with water-repellent compounds (wax, oil) during laying, the seams are sealed with silicone sealant or acrylic putties.

Treating with a water repellent, such as Click Guard sealant, is a simple but effective procedure to keep laminate flooring from blistering. High-quality processing protects the canvases from water ingress into the lock joints for 24 hours. During the operation of the floor, any liquid that has fallen on the floor must be quickly wiped off, and the treatment with water-repellent mastic should be carried out regularly.

elimination

If swelling from moisture nevertheless occurred, you should try to dry the boards naturally or with a hairdryer. Before this, the skirting boards should be removed. If there are no gaps between the walls and the coating, cut the sheets by 5-10 mm along the entire perimeter of the floor. This can be done without removing them, using a chisel.

How to dry

  • Free the floor from all objects standing on it, especially heavy ones;
  • Open windows and vents. If it's cold outside, you don't need to open it much. The temperature must be 25°C or higher;
  • You can dry it with a hair dryer with warm air, fixing it on something at a distance of 30-40 cm from the floor. Blow in one direction with a hairdryer for no more than 1.5–2 hours. No need to use powerful heaters for drying: heat guns, heaters, etc.;
  • Drying is carried out for at least 5 days, sometimes helping with a hairdryer. Perhaps, after such measures, swelling will pass. If they cannot be eliminated in this way, it will be necessary to re-lay the deformed boards;
  • At the same time, the damaged area or the entire floor is dismantled, numbering the boards. Eliminate moisture from the base, lamellas and leave them disassembled to dry for 3-5 days;
  • Remove mold, fungi, damage from the coating and treat the lock joints with oil or wax;
  • Lay the boards again, following the order in accordance with the numbering. If not all of them have recovered, you need to buy new ones according to the exact name and marking of the coating. Usually a laminate of one brand is sold for no more than 5 years, then it is replaced with a new one.

Bloating in the absence of waterproofing

This reason is less common. Due to inexperience during self-assembly or irresponsibility of the installer, a plastic film is not laid between the screed and the substrate, and moisture from the substrate is absorbed by the laminate boards. This reason can be identified by swelling of the boards, if there were no floods, bays, and the room is dry enough.

Eliminate this cause as follows:

  • Remove all furniture from the room;
  • Remove skirting boards;
  • Raise all the boards, wipe them with a dry cloth and put them separately; Raise the substrate and dry it. Leave to dry for 3-5 days;
  • A polyethylene film with a thickness of 200 microns is laid on the floor, carefully gluing the overlaps of the canvases;
  • The film is placed on the walls by 10 cm;
  • The substrate is laid on the film and the laminate boards are mounted in the same order;
  • Install skirting boards.
  • Usually this allows you to operate the floor in the future without problems. If the swelling is not completely eliminated, replace the defective boards with new ones.

In order to be able to return the funds spent on the installation of the floor, conclude an agreement with the installers and demand guarantees for the quality of work. In this case, the negligent installer will be obliged to return the amount of money paid for installation, compensate for the costs of repairing damage to the laminate and will not be able to refer to a poor-quality coating.

What should I do to avoid blistering laminate flooring?

  1. Purchase a laminate from well-known manufacturers that meets the operating conditions (humidity, traffic intensity). To do this, read customer reviews on the Internet.
  2. Be sure to lay a thick plastic film on the base.
  3. When laying, leave gaps between the laminate and walls of 15–20 mm, heating pipes, water pipes and other fixed objects.
  4. Treat lock joints when laying with special wax, silicone or oil.
  5. After laying, treat all seams with silicone sealant, and the floor with a water-repellent composition. Repeat the treatment periodically.
  6. Do not allow water to enter the floor. Remove it quickly. These simple guidelines will help you avoid bulging laminate and keep your floor in good condition for a long time.

Bloating laminate - video


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