How to start laying laminate flooring: the right laying technology. Single board assembly

Laminate is a great invention that allows you to decorate the floors in the rooms as simply and quickly as possible. The shape of the slats and their configuration are carefully thought out, so even a beginner will not be difficult to mount it.

Since the elements of the laminate flooring are easy to cut and combine, such a floor covering can be installed quickly even in rooms with a complex layout.

If you are interested in how to lay a laminate on your own, then our article will help you, guided by simple rules, to do this job quickly and correctly.

Basic rules for the operation of laminate

Before you start laying laminate flooring, check if it is suitable for your conditions.

1. Laying work is carried out in a well-heated dry room. To extend the life of the laminate, you should maintain a constant temperature in the room from 15 to 30 degrees, and a humidity of 40-70%.
2. The base for the laminate must be absolutely flat, that is, wooden or, the maximum differences of which should not be more than 2 mm per 1 sq.m., and the slopes should not exceed 4 mm per 2 m. Significant irregularities should be leveled by forming a floor screed, or using a flooring system.
3. Do not install the laminate on: this will lead to drying out and deformation of the elements. The laminate should not heat up from below by more than 27 degrees. In this case, it is allowed to use hydraulic heating systems that evenly distribute heat without overheating. Consider the required distance between the bottom of the laminate and the surface of the warm floor - at least 3 cm.

So, you have taken into account all the features and requirements, prepared the basis of the floor. It's time to stock up on the necessary materials and tools.

Materials and tools for laying laminate

Laminate flooring installation is simple. First, the laying of the substrate for the laminate (the material is polyethylene foam) is carried out on the prepared base, and then the elements of the flooring itself are assembled. This option is suitable for . On a concrete base under the substrate, waterproofing will be required. A simple 200 micron polyethylene film is suitable for it.

In order for the job to be done correctly, you will need the following:

• Laminate;
• Polyethylene film;
• Primer;
• Foamed polyethylene;
• Glue;
• Wedges for technological gaps;
• plinth;
• Fixings for plinth;
• A hammer;
• Pencil;
• Roulette and building corner;
• Hacksaw (jigsaw);
• Construction knife;
• Wooden block.

Wedges can be purchased at the store, along with the laminate, or you can make it yourself by cutting laminate, drywall or lining into pegs 10-15 mm wide.

Glue will be needed to secure the laminate elements where it is not enough to use edges and hooks.

Tip: when buying a laminate, ensure a small margin, because no one is immune from mistakes, especially in the places where the wall bends. Do not forget that the size and number of lamellas in the package may vary from manufacturer to manufacturer.

After you have purchased everything you need, put the laminate in the room where it is planned to lay it for two days. This is necessary in order for the material to “get used” to humidity and temperature.

Laminate laying technology

First of all, thoroughly clean the floor surface from dust and debris. A construction vacuum cleaner will help you with this. After that, prime the base, both wooden and concrete. Wooden floors are also subject to antiseptic treatment.

1. Lay a waterproofing film on the cleaned concrete surface, keeping an overlap of 20 cm between the strips of material, and gluing the joints with adhesive tape. Lay polyethylene foam on top - a substrate.
2. Laying the laminate starts from the window, as a source of natural light.
3. The substrate can be laid on the entire floor, or you can only on a small area that you are covering at the moment, and then report as you progress. This way you keep it whole and clean as you work.
4. Make sure that the substrate is on the walls by 2-3 cm, thus forming a cushioning strip. Apply the following strips of material to the previous one end-to-end and secure with adhesive tape.
5. The first lamella is laid in the corner of the room from the side of the window. Pegs are inserted between it and the wall, as well as from the end. Now add solid stripes to the end of the row, controlling the correct connection of the elements.
6. At the end of the lamella there are grooves that allow you to bring the next element evenly at a slight angle, and firmly insert it into the previous one. This will not require much effort.
7. The missing distance, in which the whole lamella did not fit, can be filled with a segment. Turn the lamella element over along the short end and place it on the already mounted area, resting it against the wall. On the inside you will see a cut line. Do not forget to leave a gap to the wall when marking, at least 10 mm. Cut the lamella of the required length with a hacksaw or jigsaw and insert into the general row.
8. The second row should be laid without snapping the lock with the first row, but touching it over the edge of the end. Dock the entire row in the same way as the first, and when you fully assemble it, lift it up and put it into the lock until it stops, snapping along the entire length. If in some places the lock is not fully latched, attach a wooden block and tap with a hammer.

For your information: a laminate with a soundproofing underlay is available for sale. Polyethylene foam should not be laid under it, only a waterproofing layer on the concrete pavement.

According to this scheme, fill the entire space of the floor. Any special work will be required in places where there are heating pipes, wall bends.

Rules for laying laminate diagonally

It turns out that this installation option is also quite simple. In addition, it visually increases the space of the room. The disadvantage of this method is the additional consumption of material. To approximately calculate the required amount, add 7-8% to the area of ​​​​the room.

Preparation is no different from that which is carried out before the usual installation.

1. Choose a corner near the window and extend a fishing line from it with a 45 degree slope relative to the walls. It is along this line that you will subsequently navigate in order to align the laying of the lamellas.
2. Trim the edges of the first strip at a 45 degree angle. Lay the first strip in a corner, setting the wedges to form a thermal gap.
3. The next step: take two strips of lamella and measure them so that their joint is in the center of the first row, and the edges pre-cut at 45 degrees are flush with the wall, taking into account the gap.

Thus, fill the entire floor. You can first lay out all the whole elements of the laminate, focusing on the joints and fishing line, and at the end of the work, fill in the areas near the walls with scraps. This option is preferable for a beginner in such work, since it allows you to avoid run-up at the junctions of rows due to uneven walls.

Ways of laying laminate in non-standard situations

Rooms with perfectly flat surfaces, without any protrusions or communications outlets, are rare. Therefore, we are faced with the need to cut curly elements from lamellae. For this you will need:

• Pencil;
• building corner;
• Construction knife;
• Jigsaw.

Here are a few options to help you deal with laminate flooring in rooms with specific challenges.

• 1. To get around, you need to trim the lamellas. Turn the element over in length, attach it to the stacked ones, and use a corner to mark the location of the pipes in width.
  2. After that, attach the lamella to the side of the pipe and rest against the wall through the peg. Mark in this position the second mark with a building level (distance from the wall to the pipe). This way you will get the intersections of the lines that determine the location of the holes for the pipe.
  3. Drill holes in the lamellas using special drills - "ballerinas". The diameter must be greater than the diameter of the pipes, the gaps can be closed with special inserts for laminate floors.
  4. Now cut the lamella into two pieces across the middle of the hole. Attach one part to the rest of the floor up to the pipe, and attach the second from the pipe to the wall. To make the mount stronger, apply glue to the ends and press them together.

Tip: If the cutouts are sloppy and too eye-catching, hide them behind decorative elements, such as pipe lines.

If the walls of your room have ledges, cut the required shape with a jigsaw right along the lamella. In cases where the obstacle is under the heating radiators, cut the bottom of the sheathing and bring the laminate board to the base of the wall, observing the gaps.

In order for the end of the lamella to be correctly inserted under the radiator or casing, you need to slightly tweak the lock of the adjacent lamella. To do this, carefully cut off the protruding edge from the bottom of the end. So that the strength of the joint does not suffer, coat the joints of the lamellas with glue and press firmly against each other.

What else is useful to know about laying laminate flooring?

If you are the lucky owner of a large living space, more than 8x8 meters, then laying a laminate floor will have certain features. You will need the formation of expansion joints. For this, use special profiles that are mounted on the floor between two sections of the mounted laminate that are not connected to each other.

In this case, the upper section of the dividing profile will be the same lining as in the "pies" for doorways. The reason for this is the thermal expansion of the material and the need to limit the maximum area of ​​the bonded area of ​​the laminate floor in order to reduce the total deformation. The same profile must be installed along the boundaries of the separation of excellent loops of a warm water floor installed in the same room.

After you have completely filled the floor space and installed the laminate in difficult places, remove any wedges installed around the perimeter and trim the edges of the underlay that protrude too much from under the surface. Leave only a couple of inches of wall entry so that they provide a shock-absorbing belt. Now it remains only to install the plinth, and the work will be completed.

The peculiarity of installing skirting boards on a laminate floor is that there are no fasteners to the laminate and the floor, as such. The plinth strip is attached directly to the wall. There are several types of skirting boards and their mounting options, so use the manufacturer's instructions for installation.

• Wooden skirting boards are only suitable for absolutely flat walls due to their hardness;
• If the wall surface is uneven, plastic skirting boards are optimal.
• If wires are laid under, fix it in special grooves so that communications do not fall into the gap between the laminate and the wall.
• Place felt pads on the legs of all furniture in a room with a laminate floor.

In order for the laminate to serve you for a long time, protect it from moisture and temperature extremes. There are types of laminate coatings that are not afraid of external mechanical damage, but still such a floor requires careful handling: try to avoid scratches and chipped areas, they will harm not only the appearance, but also the quality of the material.

Video on how to install laminate flooring

As you can see, assembling a laminate floor is not difficult at all, and you will see this in practice when you start the process yourself. We hope that our tips will help you avoid common mistakes. If you have any questions while reading the article, please ask them in the comments, and we will be happy to answer them. Surely you would like to share your experience with our readers. We wish you easy work!

The building materials market is rich in a variety of floor coverings. Laminated panels are the youngest type of all, however, due to the variety of textures and colors, strength and versatility, this material has managed to win the trust of consumers. Laminate laying technology is thought out and calculated, so even a novice in the construction business can lay out the floor.

What conditions for the operation of the laminate must be met?

Before you start directly laying the laminate, you need to provide all the conditions for its use. Experienced builders know that you need to work with this flooring in a well-heated room. The house should be warm and humid. It is advisable to maintain the temperature in the apartment at the same level within 20-30 degrees Celsius. The recommended air humidity should be 40-70%.

What tools are needed?

Do-it-yourself laminate flooring is a simple task, the main thing is to prepare all the necessary materials and tools. You will need:

Laminate sheets;

Primer;

Foamed polyethylene;

Thin polyethylene, thickness - 200 microns;

Skirting boards and fixings for them;

Special wedges for gaps, wooden pegs or crosses.

To work, you need to prepare the following tools:

Construction corner and tape measure;

Knife and pencil;

Electric jigsaw or hacksaw;

Rubber mallet and wooden block.

Foundation preparation

Laying a laminate with your own hands requires certain preparatory work, namely the creation of a base. It should be perfectly smooth and even. They can serve: tile, concrete, wood or linoleum.

The most common is the technology of laying laminated concrete floor. The final layer of the finished flooring can be placed only after the base has dried. If a cement-sand mixture was poured in the new house, then the laminate can be laid out only after a month. When working with an old base, you need to check its condition after the previous coating has been removed. To avoid bumps and cracks, it is leveled with a special mixture. If the damage to the concrete cannot be repaired, then a new screed is made.

Do not forget that a layer of vapor barrier must be laid on the self-leveling floor. It is made of a polyethylene film with a slight overlap on the walls (no more than 12-14 cm) and an overlap of 15-25 cm. The thickness of the vapor barrier layer should not be less than 200 microns. To make the coating uniform, its joints are fixed with construction tape.

The technology for laying laminate on a wooden floor is somewhat different from the method described above. It is possible to cover such a floor with a top coat only if the old old material is not infected with pests, there are no fungi and mold on it. Poorly fixed floorboards are securely fastened with self-tapping screws to wooden rails or logs. Roughness and unevenness can be easily eliminated with scraping. If there are gaps or badly damaged boards on the old floor, then it would be more expedient to replace them with new ones. To do this, you need to disassemble the floor area to the lag.

To level such a floor, you can use chipboard sheets. The technology for laying laminate on plywood will be the same as on the screed. The only difference is that chipboard does not require a vapor barrier, it is enough to place a soundproof substrate on it. Only you need to put the sheets in a checkerboard pattern - this is the main rule of a flat floor.

Also, laminate can be laid on durable and fixed surfaces in the form of linoleum and tiles. They guarantee a flat floor, protect against moisture, which means they can be an excellent base for finishing panels. The technology of laying laminate on linoleum or tiles has its own characteristics. Before starting work, it is imperative to check the surface with a building level, making sure that the floor is even, you can start laying the substrate for sound insulation. After carrying out all the manipulations, you can safely begin the installation of laminate panels.

Where not to lay out the laminate?

Despite the fact that some consider laminate flooring to be a universal floor covering, it can not be installed everywhere. It is strictly forbidden:

Laying laminate flooring in the bathroom, bath and other similar rooms;

Attach or glue to the floor base;

Lay it on carpets;

Spread the laminate panels on the matte and cable systems of the "warm" floor, which is under electrical voltage.

Laying methods

Do-it-yourself laminate flooring involves the use of a certain method of attaching flooring panels. There are two main methods: the Click and Lok locking systems and the adhesive method. The latter is similar to the traditional way of laying parquet, it is the so-called tongue and groove system. The edges of the panels are lubricated with special glue, thanks to which they hold tightly. The glue method is used in rooms that are intensively used by people. This system provides protection against water ingress and increased strength of the seams. This process is quite laborious, plus the floor structure cannot be disassembled.

The use of locking systems greatly simplifies the laying of laminate panels. The essence of the Click system is that the spike on each row is inserted into the groove of the previous one. It snaps into place at an angle of 30 degrees, and for the end lock to work, you need to tap on the panel with a hammer.

Do-it-yourself laminate laying using the Lock locking system involves the installation of panels strictly horizontally. The spike is combined with a groove in an already laid structure. In order for the lock to work, it is carefully driven in with a hammer.

Laminate laying technology: scheme and installation rules

There are three main schemes for laying laminate flooring:

At a certain angle to the direction of the light, in other words, diagonally;

Parallel towards the light;

Perpendicular.

Most often, laminate laying technology involves the second option, but this is not a prerequisite. Depending on the design projects, flooring can be laid in different ways. The only thing that needs to be observed is the installation of panels with a shift. Experts call this method "out of the box". The bottom line is to lay out each next panel with a shift relative to the adjacent row.

Chess layout

Outwardly, this pattern is very similar to brickwork. This three-lane scheme assumes the displacement of each subsequent row by half. The "brick" method can hardly be called economical, since the material overrun is about 15%. However, this method is the most durable of all. It is best to use material of the same color or shade when laying, so the checkerboard pattern will look more harmonious.

Classic styling scheme

Do-it-yourself laminate laying technology according to the classical method is considered the most beneficial for the owner of a house or apartment. It begins to be performed parallel to the direction of the streams of light, that is, from the nearest wall. The cut off piece of the panel becomes the beginning of the next row, this is the essence of the savings - almost all the material is used during the work. It is not recommended to use parts of the laminate with a length of less than 25-30 cm. An exception may be areas of the floor hidden from view, that is, places where large-sized furniture will stand.

Laying "diagonally"

This method involves laying the laminate at an angle of 45 degrees relative to the doorway, that is, the wall where it is located. This scheme visually transforms the space of the room, making it more spacious and free. Designers advise laying out the laminate in this way in rooms with a corner entrance door. The overspending of material is on average 15-20% of the total number of panels. However, keep in mind that in square-shaped rooms, unlike narrow or wide ones, the material is consumed with minimal residue.

Stages of work

1. First you need to leave gaps between the wall and the first row of at least 10 mm, you can adjust them using wedges or crosses.

2. Each row should be laid out with an offset of the next one by at least 15 cm.

3. It is best to start installation from a corner near the heating pipes or radiator. If you end up working in the place where the heating system is located, it will interfere.

4. Where laminate panels connect to pipes, holes must be made with a jigsaw or a construction knife. Be sure to leave a gap between the radiator and the coating.

5. The final row of laminate is cut to size. The geometry of the rooms is rarely perfect, so its length, width and curves are strictly individual.

7. After all the work, you can start screwing the skirting boards and decorative thresholds near the doorways. Wall planks need to be fixed with the help of adhesives, they press them tightly to the floor and evenly press on the entire area of ​​​​the laminate.

The floor covering, which is mounted on a locking system, is ready for use immediately. The laminate, laid out with adhesive, should dry for some time, which is indicated on the package.

Previously, the technology of laying a laminate was considered. Preparation and recommendations of specialists will help to lay out the floor more efficiently and beautifully:

Never lay out the laminate in wet areas, remember, he is afraid of water;

When buying a material, pay attention to the manufacturer, evaluate the level of wear resistance and resistance to scratches and other damage;

Do not forget to check the quality of the purchased products, the service life of the flooring depends on it;

Wear resistance can be tested at home with sandpaper;

Correctly calculate the amount of material, not forgetting about overspending (on average 15%);

If the laminate smells unpleasant, then it is unlikely that it is made of quality materials;

A good floor covering should have a decent weight, lightweight materials are likely not dense enough and shock resistant;

Before buying, inspect the panels from the end, they should be even, without bends;

It is only necessary to level the base if there are many drops and irregularities on the surface;

Do not forget to leave gaps between the panels and walls, the laminate dries out and expands;

Scratches can be removed with a mixture of baking soda and water;

Laminate flooring should be washed no more than twice a week;

Water with vinegar, lemon juice will help clean the floor from dirt and dust and give it shine.

This article will help you master the technology of laying laminate and do it yourself without the involvement of specialists. Follow the instructions and your floor will be beautiful and even.

Laminate, often used in the arrangement of the floor, can be safely called a material with balanced characteristics. In particular, it is worth noting the low cost of the laminate, which, coupled with the possibility of self-laying, allows you to save a considerable part of the budget. How to lay out the laminate on the floor with your own hands, and will be discussed in this article.

The layout of the laminate is not the most difficult process, especially if you have some experience in the construction business. Nevertheless, it is worth studying the issue in order to avoid the most common mistakes that can be made in the process of work. Practice shows that a well-thought-out algorithm of work and high-quality preparation greatly simplify the installation of laminate.

Laminate floor design

The most important point on which further actions depend is the creation of a flooring project. There are no difficulties in this - just take a sheet of paper, draw on it the room where the laminate will be laid, and put down all the dimensions. Using a similar scheme, you can have an idea of ​​\u200b\u200bwhat the floor structure will look like before starting work.

When designing, it is worth paying attention to the position in which the laminated panels will be relative to the source of sunlight.

Depending on this parameter, the following laying schemes can be distinguished:

1. Perpendicular. Laying the laminate at an angle relative to the window allows you to mask the joints between the panels due to the rays of light.
2. Parallel. This design, unlike the previous one, makes the seams very visible, which is sometimes used in design to emphasize the imitation of a wooden surface.
3. Diagonally. In rare cases, laying laminated panels at an angle may be used. Installation in this case will not be easy, but if the expected result looks interesting, then the effort will be justified (more details: "").

Laying a laminate can be done in fifty different ways, for which the compatibility of longitudinal and end locks is used (more: ""). The problem is that such laying of material requires serious experience, which not everyone has. That is why it is better to stop your choice when laying out laminated panels on simpler models with end lock-latches and longitudinal Click-locks.

As a rule, when laying a laminate, a perpendicular method is used. The main reason is that in addition to ease of implementation, this installation allows you to create a solid floor, on which the joints of laminated boards are almost invisible. To visually expand a narrow room, it is better to lay the laminate parallel to the window.

Diagonal styling is well suited for very small spaces. In addition, in this way it is possible to lay out the laminate in the case of a non-standard form of the room or to divide it into separate elements.

The laminate layout scheme is also necessary to determine the amount of material that will be required to complete the entire job.

The calculation of the laminate is simple:

• When laying the laminate in parallel or perpendicularly, approximately 5-7% must be added to the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe room;
• Diagonal laying is difficult and requires adjustment of the plates, so the margin should be increased to 15%.

Each pack of laminate displays the total area of ​​all the boards inside. Having finished calculating the laying of the laminate, taking into account the tolerances, you need to stock up on the necessary amount of material, after which you can get to work.

Installation planning

When installing laminate, you will definitely need to trim the panels. Having cut off one piece of the panel from the end, you need to lay it at the beginning of the next row so that the masonry is correct. When cutting, it is necessary to ensure that the length of the cut edge laid on the next row exceeds 30 cm (in some cases this figure can be reduced to 20 cm).

A mismatch in the dimensions of the boards can be observed both in length and in width - in this case, the panels cannot be laid without trimming (read: ""). When adjusting the width of the laminate, this indicator should not be allowed to decrease to less than 5 cm. To increase the width of the boards of the last row, it would be better to cut the first row as well. It is desirable to adjust the elements on both sides of the structure, and the canvases must remain symmetrical.

Laying can be carried out according to two concepts:

• Symmetric, in which the rows are repeated with a certain frequency;
• Asymmetric (chaotic), in which there is no clear laying sequence, and the panels are placed one after the other as the ends are trimmed.

The latter method is more profitable and simple, but it has one drawback - the insertion of parts less than 30 cm long is impossible. Preliminary offset calculation allows you to pre-fit all elements properly. Before starting work, it does not hurt to find out how to cut laminate at home so that the cuts are even.

When calculating the laminate laying scheme, it is necessary to take into account the thermal expansion inherent in laminated panels. The calculation uses an indicator equal to 1.5 mm per square meter of coverage. As a rule, a compensation gap of about 1-1.5 cm is left to expand the laminate, which is masked by skirting boards.

Preparing for laying laminate flooring

The preparatory work includes not only the calculation and acquisition of the necessary materials, but also the leveling of the subfloor.

To level the base floor, you can use the following methods:

• Surface grinding;
• Filling with self-leveling compounds;
• Alignment with plywood sheets mounted on logs or single fasteners.

The preparation of the base is aimed at ensuring that the height differences over the entire floor area do not exceed 2 mm per two square meters. When the leveling work is completed, it is necessary to thoroughly clean the surface of debris and dust so that this dirt does not later get into the laminate locks - this may cause extraneous noise.

The material also needs to be prepared for work. It is impossible to use the laminate immediately after purchase - it must stay indoors for at least two days and acclimatize. It is advisable to put packs with laminate in the center of the room on top of each other so that moisture from the walls does not penetrate into the material.

When the required time has passed, the laminate must be removed from the packs and laid out to check for the presence of different shades - if they are found, then the coating is distributed over the entire surface of the floor. As a result, even in one room, a slight change in the color of the flooring will remain invisible (just look at any photo of laminate floors and see for yourself).

Laminate laying algorithm

The assembly of the laminate without any problems is done by hand, but for this it is necessary Laminate installation tool, and you should also understand the sequence of work.

Laminate layout algorithm is as follows:

1. After leveling the base, it is necessary to take care of waterproofing, which is especially relevant in the case of a concrete floor. The moisture resistance of the laminate is not very high, so waterproofing is needed (this rule does not apply to a wooden base). It is necessary to lay the waterproofing material with a 20 cm overlap, and the joints are connected with adhesive tape.
2. Next, a layer of thermal insulation is laid. The thickness of the thermal insulation material can vary from 2 to 7 mm. During installation, the thermal insulation elements must be joined, avoiding overlap - this can cause bending of the laminated boards. The substrate is laid perpendicular to the location of the laminate and glued with adhesive tape. It is also necessary to take into account an important point in advance - the waterproofing must lie across the substrate.
3. The next step is laying the first row of laminate. When connecting the locks of the plates to each other, it is worth considering the manufacturer's recommendations indicated on the packaging with the material. As a rule, a rubber mallet is used for mounting laminated panels, which allows you to protect the locking system and the panel itself from damage.
4. Next, you need to assemble the second row in accordance with the selected technology. After assembly, the tongue of the second row is inserted into the groove of the first at the angle specified by the manufacturer.
5. The connected rows must be moved towards the wall, while not forgetting the expansion gap. To provide the necessary space between the laminate and the walls, spacers (homemade or purchased) are used, which are installed on the ends and sides of the coating.
6. Having collected the first rows, you can install the next ones using the same technology. Thus, the entire floor covering is laid, up to the last rows.
7. Approaching the completion of the work, it is worth measuring all the canvases in order to fit them if necessary. Room walls are very often uneven, so accurate measurements can prevent damage to laminate flooring due to improper trimming.
8. In order for the last row to be held in place with respect to the entire coating, a special bracket is used, which is in the basic set of tools necessary for laying the laminate. However, often the last row is fixed with the help of ordinary things, such as a hammer or mount.

Laying laminate flooring in narrow spaces

When installing laminate in almost every room, you have to deal with uncomfortable places in which it is very difficult to work. Doorways, radiators and various pipes greatly interfere with the installation of laminate flooring.

Depending on the type of interference, laying the laminate will look like this:

1. When installing laminate around heaters, it will not work to assemble the correct floor covering. To get rid of this problem, part of the ridge is cut off, after which the panels are connected with glue.
2. Equipping the floor around the pipe, you need to measure the dimensions of the latter and cut a hole in the panel, the diameter of which will slightly exceed the data obtained. Next, a cut is made in the laminate, allowing the slab to be laid in its place. The cut off part is placed behind the pipe and fixed with glue, and the remaining gaps are masked with sealant or plastic overlays.

Laying laminate in a doorway begins by cutting off the bottom of the jamb. In order not to cut off more than necessary, the thickness of the floor covering is pre-measured, taking into account the substrate. It is better to do trimming in another room so that dust does not get into the laminate lock, but if this is not possible, then cleaning will be required after work. On the laminate, the dimensions of the door frame are drawn, taking into account all the bends, so that as a result the panel lies at a minimum distance from the opening.

Then you can proceed directly to the installation. The plate is mounted so that it is possible to hide the joint behind the threshold. It is also worth considering that after installing the threshold, the door should close freely. It is necessary to use camouflage strips if the dimensions of the coating exceed 10 m in length and 8 m in width - this design allows you to close the deformation gap.

Conclusion

From the above, we can conclude that do-it-yourself laminate layout is carried out without any problems, if you know the technology of this work and take into account some of the nuances that arise during the installation process. After all, laminate flooring is an inexpensive flooring, and the opportunity to save even more on installation is clearly worth it to install the flooring yourself.

When ordering an apartment renovation, every second client chooses a laminate as a floor covering. These are real statistics taken from one large construction company.

You can understand people, because laminate is a relatively cheap, durable and very attractive finishing material. With it, you can imitate parquet boards, ceramic tiles and other floor materials. But there is another advantage - ease of installation. Anyone can install laminate flooring with their own hands without special skills.

We immediately warn you that the laminate is not suitable for use in bathrooms and other rooms with high humidity.

Choice of laminate

Preparatory work

After buying a laminate, do not rush to lay them. Laminate should lie down in the room for two days so that it adapts to the conditions of the room.

By the way, if you do not know how much to buy a laminate - use our laminate calculator.

Foundation preparation

Laminate can only be laid on a perfectly flat surface. To understand how even the base should be, take a level 1 m long and attach it to the floor. The differences should not exceed 2 mm.

Concrete floor preparation

If the level differences are not critical, then self-leveling mixtures (self-leveling floor) can be used to level the floor. The minimum thickness of the self-leveling floor is 3.5-5 mm.

If the floor surface has significant flaws, a full-fledged floor screed is made. When pouring the floor with a cement-sand mixture, laying the laminate can be started no earlier than 27 days (after the surface has completely dried).

A concrete base (as well as a self-leveling floor and a cement-sand screed) needs a vapor barrier. To do this, you can use a polyethylene film with a thickness of 200 microns. It must be laid perpendicular to the laying direction of the laminate with a 20 cm overlap on adjacent rolls and a 10 cm overlap on the walls. To prevent the film from moving, glue the joints with tape.

If you are not making a cement-sand, but a dry screed, then a vapor barrier layer is not needed (it is provided in the screed itself).

Wood floor preparation

A wooden base is considered level if all the boards are firmly nailed to the joists, are not affected by pests, are not covered with fungus and form a flat surface. Surface unevenness can be corrected by scraping the boards. In the worst case, you will have to tear off the boards and lay them on a new one.

To level the wooden and concrete base, you can also lay plywood or chipboard boards with a thickness of 10 mm or more on the floor. The wooden base does not need a vapor barrier.

Laying laminate on linoleum and ceramic tiles

It is quite possible to lay a laminate on a floor with linoleum or tiles, the main thing is that the base is even and reliable.

In what cases it is impossible to lay a laminate

• Do not lay laminate on carpets. This is done for hygiene reasons (microorganisms and dust collect in the carpet).
• Glue the laminate to the floor or fasten it with self-tapping screws (nails).
• Lay the laminate on a screed in which the underfloor heating cable is embedded - due to the thick substrate, the efficiency of the warm floor will be extremely low.

Types of laminate joints

• adhesive
• "Click" locking system
• lock system "Lock"

Used in rooms with high intensity of loads and increased moisture-resistant requirements. When laying such a laminate, glue is applied to the ends and after that the boards are pressed against each other. Thus, the joint becomes strong, and the moisture-resistant adhesive prevents moisture from penetrating through the ends of the laminate panels. However, such a laminate has its drawbacks: additional spending on glue, fragility of the coating and complete non-repairability of the base. Such a laminate cannot be used in conjunction with underfloor heating, because. The glue dries quickly when exposed to high temperatures.

Laminate with click locks is the most common, because the installation of such a laminate is the simplest, and the connections are quite strong. The spike of one board is inserted into the groove of the other at an angle of 45 degrees, and then pressed to the floor. After that, the last board is knocked out with a bar until the lock is completely snapped into place.

Laminate with locks it is laid differently: the boards are located in the same plane, then the spike and groove of adjacent boards are combined and with the help of a bar it achieves the lock. The strength of the laminate connection with such locks is somewhat lower, but the cost of the laminate itself is more attractive.

To find out the direction of laying the laminate, you need to look at the direction of the fall of the sun's rays. Based on this, three types of styling are distinguished:

1. parallel to the direction of light
2. perpendicular to the direction of light
3. diagonally, i.e. at an angle to the direction of the light.

Most often, parallel laying is used, as the simplest and at the same time hiding joints.

In addition, there are three more schemes for laying laminate:

• classical
• chess
• diagonal

Classic scheme. This scheme is economical, only about 5% of the laminate goes to waste. With this laying scheme, the cut off part of the last board of the row becomes the first board of the next row.

Chess scheme. This scheme is distinguished by the highest masonry strength, but the percentage of material consumption is quite high - 15%. With this laying scheme, the next sheet is shifted exactly by half relative to the previous one.

Diagonal laying pattern. It is successfully used in cases where you need to interestingly beat the interior of a small room. Material consumption does not exceed 15%, and the consumption in square rooms is minimal.

Regardless of which laying scheme you choose, you need to lay the boards apart. Those. so that the boards in adjacent rows are offset from each other.

Required clearance

It must be remembered that the laminate can slightly change its size with changes in room temperature. If you do not make the necessary gaps, the laminate will "swell". Therefore, wedges are placed along the wall, forming a gap from the wall of about 10 mm. If the length of the room is more than 12 m, then the gap must be increased, based on:

Room length * 1.5 = gap (mm)

Required Tool

• wood saw
• expansion wedges
• ruler and tape measure
• pencil
• a hammer
• wooden block
• clamp

Sound-absorbing underlayment

The substrate for the laminate performs several functions: it hides the defects of the base, serves as a shock-absorbing layer, and also performs a heat-insulating function.

What are laminate underlays?

• Insulating substrate, PPE (polyethylene foam)
• Foil backing
• Extruded polystyrene foam underlay
• Cork backing
• Composite substrate

The choice of substrate is largely determined by its cost and some technical features. The thickness of the substrate layer should be within 2-3 mm. If more - the joints of the laminate will diverge. By the way, some types of laminate have a backing on the end side of the panel.

Laminate installation with click lock

We measure the width of the room with a tape measure and calculate the width of the last board. If it is less than 5 cm, you will have to evenly cut the boards in the first and last row. Do not forget about the necessary clearance.

Laying starts from the far left corner, while the direction of light should coincide with the direction of laying the laminate along the long side of the board. We lay the first board, dock the next board to it from the end at an angle of 45 degrees. We lower the second board to the floor so that the lock works. In the same way we collect the first row.

The last board can:

1. Enter entirely - then cut the board of the next row in half.
2. Do not fit entirely into the row - it is cut and the remaining piece is used as the first board of the second row. The length of the last board (and the first of the second row) should not be shorter than 30 cm - this is the minimum length of the joint offset.

Thus, the boards will go in a checkerboard pattern and the pressure will be evenly distributed between the panels.

We start laying the second row of laminate with a cut board. The technology for assembling the second row is similar: the boards are connected at the ends, but the second row is assembled next to the first and so far is not connected in any way.

Then we raise the second row (in assembled form) and insert the spikes into the grooves of the first row at an angle of 45%. It is better to do this work with a partner: you are on one side, and he is on the other. Then we close the locks, pressing the second row to the floor.

Subsequent rows are assembled in the same way. When all of the laminate is in place, remove the expansion wedges. The resulting gaps will be closed with a plinth.

Laying laminate with a lock type "Lock"

Laying laminate flooring with these locks is no different than laying laminate flooring with "Click" locks. Those. gaps are also left, the width of the last board is calculated, etc. The only difference is in the way the panels are connected.

Panels with a "Lock" lock are connected horizontally to each other and hammered through a bar (so as not to damage the panel) until the lock is activated. The board of the second row is also joined horizontally with the board of the first row and immediately knocked out. Those. The difference from laying laminate flooring with "Click" locks is that the boards of the second row are clicked on individually, and not as a whole.

The last panel is pushed to the previous row with a clamp.

The preparatory operations will be the same as in the previous two cases. The differences are that you need to apply glue to the ends of the panels and knock the panels to each other with a hammer and a bar. Excess adhesive should be wiped off immediately with a damp cloth. There is also a difference in the order of installation:

1. lay two boards of the first row
2. we join two boards of the second row to them
3. put the next two boards of the first row
4. we also repeat with the second row.

After laying three rows, you need to take a break of 3 hours so that the glue dries. After laying the last board, you need to wait 10 hours for the glue to dry completely.