How to handle the joint between the laid linoleum and laminate? How to dock linoleum: between themselves, with tiles and laminate Connection between laminate and linoleum

Decorative sills
Functional tasks of the docking nut
Types of sills in shape
Production material
Threshold installation

Any owner of his own home who is faced with repair work knows that the procedure begins with the finishing of ceilings and walls, and at the final stage, you should move on to laying the flooring. The article will discuss how to fix thresholds on linoleum, since this particular coating is very popular and should be ideal for creating comfortable indoor conditions.

If the cracks near the walls can be sealed with skirting boards, then under the doors you will need to use decorative sills. Interior sills for linoleum and other coatings are installed for a specific purpose.

Their installation is carried out at the very end of the work, and the goal is quite clear: blocking the joints from dirt, moisture, dust, etc. getting into them. To date, there are many varieties of such decorative elements, distinguishable by material, design, type and other parameters.

It is quite difficult to choose a threshold that meets all the conditions of the room, and most often two rooms at once. It should be borne in mind that dissimilar coatings are usually joined, which are different not only in structure, but also in height. In order to cover this difference, a threshold is also selected.

Joints cannot be avoided when laying, and therefore it is necessary to take care of a high-quality method of sealing them. If the whole house is covered with ordinary linoleum, then it is enough to solder the sheets. In the case when there are other types of facing materials for the floor, a threshold for linoleum is simply necessary.

Functional tasks of the docking nut

Such a decorative element helps to solve several functional tasks at the same time:

Naturally, the aesthetics of the coating are increased, since the threshold can be chosen in such a way that it will be in harmony with both mating coatings.
Without the use of this element in the photo and during visual inspection, even tightly packed and soldered sheets will raise doubts about the quality of the flooring;
as mentioned above, the threshold is a protective bar for the joint so that it does not become clogged with dust, dirt, and also does not become a place for the formation of fungus, mold, insect breeding, etc.;
the threshold not only decorates the joint, making the combination of adjacent coatings harmonious, but also facilitates the visual perception of floor cladding by minimizing the contrast between materials of different colors, shades and textures;
the threshold for linoleum is also important in cases where there is a significant difference in height when docked with other materials. The threshold makes the joint safe for residents who could trip over it.

Types of sills in shape

Based on the need to eliminate the height difference, the threshold for linoleum can be of two types:

single-level- necessary for closing tightly joined coatings with the same height;
multilevel- performs the most important task, closing the joint between coatings of different heights, while not creating discomfort for residents during operation.

Production material

To date, such docking strips for linoleum can be made from many known materials. Construction stores offer wooden, plastic, metal, rubber products, etc. in their assortment. Naturally, the differences between each of these materials affect not only external, but also technical characteristics (for more details: “What are the floor sills and how to lay them”).

Let's take a closer look at the sills from the main materials:

Wood. Nuts made of such material were most valued in the 90s in the CIS countries, since no other types were produced at all.
A wide variety of wood species were used, and, first of all, the emphasis was on achieving the perfect wood texture that would blend perfectly with the flooring. Wooden fittings for linoleum are also suitable, given that the flooring may have a parquet or laminate texture. The installation of such a nut is quite simple: a special rail is installed at the joint, which serves as the basis for installing the upper bar.
It is worth noting that this type of decorative panel has disadvantages: high cost and demanding wood care during operation. Periodically, it will have to be varnished, sanded, etc. First of all, you should use an antiseptic that protects the wood from premature deformation.
Plastic. Polyvinyl chloride (plastic) profile for linoleum comes to the rescue when you want to create a curved joint between two adjacent sheets or different coatings. In addition to being highly flexible, plastic also comes in a huge variety of colors, sizes, and shapes. Such an element is popular when joining linoleum, carpet and laminate. The disadvantage is the short service life.
Metal. The most popular is the metal threshold for linoleum, since its service life exceeds all other varieties and goes well with the floor coverings used. As for metal, most often the nut is aluminum, steel or brass.
Aluminum- the cheapest among alternative metals, and its advantage lies in its excellent resistance to corrosion processes. A distinctive feature is that its surface can be finished in bronze, gold, silver or wood using a special lamination procedure.
Thresholds from MDF. Best suited for joining laminate flooring. In combination with linoleum, they are practically not used. They have a low cost, a short service life and are not allowed for use in wet areas.
How to join linoleum: among themselves, with tiles and laminate

So, if the owner decided to take a corner for linoleum in the kitchen, then such a decorative threshold can not even be considered.
Cork. The cork threshold is, in fact, a rail made of this material with excellent depreciation characteristics.
Another name for such thresholds is a compensation rail. During manufacture, they are given various shapes and sizes. It is enough to glue such a rail into the joint seam. It should be understood that you can only work on coatings with the same height.
Rubber. The rubber docking threshold for linoleum can be of two types: completely made of rubber (glued) or the product itself will be aluminum, and the rubber will act as a gasket (attached to dowels).
Such sills are intended to reduce the effect of sliding.

Threshold installation

Consider a common option for fixing sills to linoleum with dowels. It is best to use aluminum strips with a hidden mounting method. The dowels will hide under the surface of the nut, and their caps will not protrude, distorting the impression of the photo and visual inspection of the room.

Laying in this case is carried out as follows:

The seam is measured.
The nut strip of the required length is cut off.
The seam is cleaned from dust and debris.
The cut element is laid in such a way that the seam is clearly in the center of the plank. Marks are made along the perimeter to indicate the place of laying. Places for driving dowels are planned.
Holes are drilled into which fasteners are inserted.
A connecting strip for linoleum is stuffed onto the hats and the threshold is ready for use.

Outcome

The article describes in detail the procedure for installing the threshold for linoleum. It is recommended not to deviate from the sequence points in order to get a well-laid nut. In this case, the element will be reliable and will last for many years without falling out a few months after the start of operation, and will not make residents stumble on it.

If a full-fledged repair is being carried out in an apartment or house with the involvement of builders, then these same workers can select and lay the threshold that is optimal for specific conditions.

Laying floor coverings is one of the final parts of the repair. The use of several types of coating will necessarily lead to their docking. The complexity of the junction of linoleum, laminate, tiles among themselves arises due to the difference in their thickness. It often happens that the thickness of the tile, together with the mortar layer, is several centimeters thicker than the thickness of the linoleum or laminate at the junction. Standard empty and joint strips may not be suitable for such a joint of coatings. There are different solutions and materials for all complex flooring joints, such as height differences, radii, curved joints, etc.

What are empty, docking and connecting strips for flooring?

There are many options for connecting strips for joints. The materials used by manufacturers in their production are also diverse. Basically, the length of the connecting strips of standard sizes is 90 cm, 180 cm and 270 cm. If you need a smaller strip, then you will have to cut off the excess with a hacksaw or grinder. The width of the empty planks varies from 2 to 10 cm.
Empty and connecting strips at the joints, near doors and thresholds not only close the end of the floor covering, but also serve to securely fix it. If you need to close the end of the laminate or tiles of great thickness, then use special decorative corners for flooring. Corners come with different widths of the sides, they can be easily customized to fit your size.

What are empty and connecting strips made of?

The most common material aluminum, which is subjected to special treatments to imitate wood, bronze and gold. Docking bars made of aluminum are anodized or laminated to create the desired design. It should be noted that for contact with street shoes and at the entrance to the room from the street, anodized docking strips are more suitable. Anodized planks are more durable than laminated ones.

Less demanded are docking strips made of plastic. Most plastic planks are laminated, but they are less durable than aluminum. In places with high traffic, it is better not to use plastic strips, as they are subject to abrasion. Docking, connecting strips for radius and curved joints are made of flexible plastic.

brass docking strips are considered the best among all types and more "noble". The cost of such connecting elements is much higher than aluminum and plastic ones, but their scope is smaller. Brass is not subjected to any processing and has a natural color and appearance. The new brass docking bar is shiny, but will fade over time. In order to restore its shine, you can rub it with felt, though almost no one does this.

Ways of fastening docking, empty strips.

Manufacturers of connecting strips for floor coverings provide several options for fastening.
through fasteners made with screws through the holes in the plank to the base of the floor. Manufacturers complete almost every empty bar with appropriate fasteners.
hidden fasteners possible in special strips with a groove on the back side. The front part of the docking bar is intact and has no holes.

The heads of the fastener screws that come with the kit are inserted into the groove from the back. Holes for plastic toxins (dowels) are drilled in the floor covering, the screws in the groove are set along the holes in the floor. After that, with the help of a hammer, the bar is pushed until it is completely fixed. A direct blow with a hammer on the empty plank can damage it, so it is better to do this through a bar or thick cardboard in several layers.
gluing planks are most often performed on tile floors. Tiles on the floor can be very durable, especially porcelain stoneware, and it is not always possible to drill an edge without damage and chips. In such cases, the bar is simply glued with liquid nails or transparent silicone glue. You can also glue if the base is loose and weak, but then with this method it will not work to securely fix the edge of the linoleum or laminate near the door threshold.

Joint-transition between linoleum, laminate, carpet or tile

Linoleum, laminate and tile have different thicknesses. To close such connections, docking strips are produced with a special bend for differences up to 1.5 cm. Such strips are aluminum and plastic in different designs, wood, bronze and gold. Manufacturers produce them with through and hidden fasteners. Due to the disproportionate curvature, visually the difference between the surfaces of the floor coverings is less noticeable.

Laying laminate or linoleum without joint strips

Laminate flooring can be laid without joints in almost any living space. The method of laying laminate without joining and empty strips is more expensive, since there will be more waste than when laying with joints on thresholds. Please note that with continuous laying, the direction of the pattern or board will be the same in all rooms.

How to handle the joint between the laid linoleum and laminate?

Consider the location of the drawing so that in the corridor the direction of the board is in the direction of travel, and not across. Craftsmen who refuse to lay without joining on thresholds most likely do not have experience or simply do not want to complicate their work.

Unlike laminate, linoleum cannot be laid in the entire apartment without a joint. But it can be laid without docking and empty strips. Near the wooden door threshold, if there is one, you will need to make a neat trim and glue the edge to the floor. The resulting gap between the linoleum and the threshold of the door frame for tightness can be filled with transparent silicone adhesive. The joints of linoleum are soldered together by “cold” welding and become almost invisible and completely sealed. For more information about docking linoleum, see the article Laying linoleum - how to properly lay linoleum? Of course, for laying without docking strips, you need to invite specialists in their field, and not your neighbor Uncle Vasya. Such styling requires experience and certain skills and does not tolerate amateurs.

Comments on the article:

Seryoga 2014-04-05 19:39:24

but you can make this joint the transition between the tile and the laminate yourself, or it will be easier and cheaper to just buy in a hardware store in principle there is nothing special there, as I understand it .. just this joint itself can also be made in the form of a threshold .. yes

Rosh 2014-04-11 07:37:10

such a joint transition in the mazine costs up to 200 rubles. do they need to be marinated and so cheap .. and high-quality at the same time it’s better to buy ready-made and that’s it ..

Igor 2016-04-11 23:48:42

It is impossible to lay laminate without a gap and expansion joints for more than 7 meters. Therefore, it is suggested that joints be made more often in doorways. About the unprofessionalism of those who allegedly do not want to do nonsense without joints. Amateur article.

Leave your comment

What material to choose for decorating the seam
Joining tiles and linoleum
Docking with aluminum sill
Forming a joint with a flexible profile
Adhesive bonding of floor coverings

In the modern design of apartments, different flooring is often used: laminate in the bedroom, linoleum in the hallway, ceramic tiles in the kitchen. It is also popular to use two different floor coverings in one room: laminate and linoleum, linoleum and porcelain stoneware. Zoning with different floor coverings is practical, allows you to create a unique home interior.

When using different materials, it is important that the joint between the tile and linoleum is neat and aesthetic. For this, special materials are used, a large assortment of which is offered by modern manufacturers.

What material to choose for decorating the seam

The easiest way to join is to carefully trim and fill the seam with sealant. However, even a straight joint is difficult to cut perfectly on a material such as tile.

Therefore, the connection of tiles and linoleum is best done with a special decor, the edge of which slightly extends onto the material, hiding the cutting point:

metal threshold- suitable for joining floor coverings in doorways.
Made from metal, MDF, wood, plastic.
Flexible PVC profile- used for complex winding lines. Modern designs allow you to design the border of materials with a height difference of up to 18 mm.
Cork compensator- more often used for "unstable" material, which greatly changes its linear dimensions from temperature and humidity changes (parquet, laminate board).
Adapters of various shapes(semicircle, step, etc.) - made according to the principle of metal sills, but the front part has a bend that smooths out the difference in planes. See also: "What are the thresholds for the floor and how to lay them."

Conclusion: the choice of the connecting element is made based on the length of the joint, its shape, and the difference in the heights of the floor planes. The color of the connection should be chosen in accordance with the design of the entire room - contrasting or matching the coating. Photos of the interior with zoning will help you choose the option to your liking.

Joining tiles and linoleum

It is easiest to connect the junction of tiles and linoleum when they lie on the same level. However, if the decorative finish is mounted on a finished rough coating, then the difference in the height of the planes cannot be avoided: the tiled surface will be higher than the linoleum, especially if the “warm floor” system is mounted under it.

To level the difference, after laying the tiles, the rest of the floor can be raised with a leveler - a mixture that forms a flat and durable surface (self-leveling floor). To continue work, you will have to wait until the screed dries well. A faster and less messy method is to lay down plywood sheets or soundproof underlayment, which can level the surfaces with little difference in height.

Docking with aluminum sill

The threshold is cut to the desired length (grinder or hacksaw), screwed with self-tapping screws. For concrete bases, pre-marks are made at the attachment points, then holes are drilled for the plastic tips of the dowels.

There are models with a secret fastening method: self-tapping screws are fixed with hats in a special groove of the nut on the underside, and then the nut is nailed into the prepared holes in the floor with a mallet. Such a threshold between tiles and linoleum forms a tight, smooth fit in which debris does not accumulate (read also: "How to make a threshold between laminate and laminate - ways").

Forming a joint with a flexible profile

Flexible profiles can be metal or PVC. The plastic profile consists of two parts - fixing and decorative.

How to joint linoleum with other floor coverings?

With a PVC profile, the joint between the floor coverings is made out as follows:

Cut the profile to the desired length.
Attach the lower part with screws or glue along the seam.
Warm up the decorative part in warm water.
Lay on the mounting profile and snap into place.

It is necessary to decide on the material for the design of the seam before starting work on finishing the floor, since it is more convenient to connect tiles with linoleum with a flexible metal profile at the stage of laying ceramics.

The procedure for joining a metal profile:

Mark the border of the joint.
Give the profile the desired shape.
Lay the tiles, cutting in accordance with the intended joint line.
The profile is laid simultaneously with the tile, inserting its edge into the groove of the profile.

After drying, the tile will securely hold the docking profile, into the groove of which, on the other hand, the companion floor covering (linoleum, laminate) is inserted. See also: "What is the floor tiles for the hallway - we make a choice."

Adhesive bonding of floor coverings

If a decision is made to join tiles and linoleum without connecting elements, then the marking of the seam should be carried out especially carefully. For straight joints, they follow the rule: laying the tiles starts from the seam so that it does not have to be cut at the joint. Missized cut squares of tiles are too conspicuous.

For complex zigzags of the joining line, it makes no difference where the laying started from - after all, the material will still have to be cut. In this case, it does not matter how to join the linoleum and tiles. It is enough to make a preliminary markup so that too small fragments of the tile do not fall on the edges.

Procedure:

Glued, leaving the edge part (joint).
Linoleum is rolled out, laying it with a slight overlap on the tile.
According to the prepared template, a joint is marked on the linoleum and carefully cut.
Lay the tiles on a dry base and make markings, referring to the edge of the linoleum.
Ceramics are cut along the outlined contours, periodically checking the accuracy of cutting by applying them to the floor.
Glue tiles and linoleum with glue appropriate for each material.
After the glue dries, the joint is sealed with silicone or sealant of a suitable color. See also: "How to lay tiled linoleum - material features."

It is important that the joint is strong - after all, in addition to aesthetics, the quality of sound and heat insulation depends on this. Therefore, it is recommended to glue linoleum to the base not with an edge, but with the entire area, at least 1 m from the junction. See also: "What to make a floor for a car service from."

The most commonly used flooring materials are laminate and linoleum. They differ in excellent appearance, durability, resistance to many types of influences. In addition, the cost of such coatings is quite affordable for any budget. But they do not always cover the entire floor in an apartment or house with any one material. For example, linoleum is used for corridors or kitchens, and laminate is used for living rooms.

The transition between different types of flooring can become not only a functional technique, but also a design highlight of the interior.

To make the coating attractive and seem uniform, it is necessary to properly process all the joints. There are several options for performing such work. You can use special docking strips or do without them. The choice of one or another option depends on the decorative requirements, the installation conditions of the coatings.

Single-level and multi-level joints

Scheme of mounting a multi-level nut

A one-level joint is the most attractive, the floor looks uniform, and the joint itself is not noticeable if you do not use slats for this. To perform this mounting option, it is necessary to level the floor specifically for these coatings, since the laminate usually has a higher surface than linoleum.

Joints can also be multi-level, when the coatings differ in height. But in this case, there is nothing complicated, you can use special sills that allow you to connect two floor coverings with a height difference of one and a half centimeters.

The planks completely cover the joint, the special design makes it almost invisible and very neat.

How beautiful to dock linoleum with laminate

The floor covered with linoleum is quite popular among buyers, as this material is easy to clean and can be used for a long time. Its price is also quite democratic compared to other options for creating a surface. But still, this flooring has some problems during operation: linoleum sheets are separated, which leads to their swelling, which is why it is rational to combine several types of materials, for example, linoleum and laminate. But how to connect laminate and linoleum without damaging either one or the other flooring material?

It should be added that laminate flooring is practical, economical and easy to use, which has become the reason for its growth in popularity among buyers. Therefore, it is important to know how to join laminate and linoleum in such a way that when connecting these surfaces there is a guarantee that they can be used for a sufficient period of time.

One of the main conditions for successful matching is understanding how these materials harmonize with each other and whether they can be combined.

In addition to taking into account the compatibility of floor coverings with each other when laying them on the floor, it is always necessary to remember that if the difference in thickness is large enough, the laying of the floors will not be successful. When joining surfaces, the same problem can arise - they often have different thicknesses.

But still, now it is possible to solve the problem of non-joining when laying various kinds of surfaces - for this you can use strips for joints and joining floor coverings.

We make a joint

How to join laminate and linoleum, what types of planks can be used for this? Empty strips for connecting joints are often used in the threshold area, since they can easily hide the end of the floor material, as well as additionally fix it. If the side is thick enough, a decorative corner can be used.

What role do connecting and empty strips play in the process of joining the coating, what are they made of? Connecting strips not only serve as clamps in the area of joints of floor surfaces - they can also serve as a designer decoration. There are quite a lot of options for docking materials - they are made in a variety of styles from imitation gold to wood, the range of choice is quite wide.

Manufacturing material options

They are made of aluminum, plastic (laminated). Anodized aluminum is more resistant to inlet use than laminated.

Plastic ones are not very popular among buyers due to the fact that they are amenable to erasure, have a lower level of strength compared to aluminum.

The most stable are the strips for joints made of brass. Of course, their price is slightly higher than aluminum or plastic ones. It is not always possible to use this type, since they are not decorated, they remain the same as the brass itself, they do not change color and appearance, but we must remember that they fade.

How can you fix the docking strip?

To do this, take the screws with which you should fasten it to the floor. Fastening can be done in a secret way without the use of screws - this is possible if there is a special groove on the back of the strip in which the screw can be fixed from the opposite side.

In addition to fixing with screws, you can consider fixing with glue if your floor is made of tiles.

Thus, the combination of flooring can be quite harmonious if you match similar styles and designs to match. Connecting surfaces is also not difficult if you use connecting strips, of which there are a fairly large number of options.

When laying laminate, it is often necessary to join it with another floor covering at the border of rooms or zones. Sometimes, in places where it is laid, heating or water supply pipes come out of the floor. Finally, the joints of the floor and walls are inevitable.

Since the laminate is subject to thermal expansion, its connection with other materials should not be rigid. In the same time, the joint must be sealed or covered from above so that it looks neat, and so that there is no gap left in which garbage will clog.

Sealing laminate joints with other floor coverings

The need to join two types of laminate or laminate with other floor coverings usually arises in doorways, as well as in a room divided into zones. The width of the compensation gap at the joint of the coatings is calculated according to the principle: 0.5-1.5 mm for each meter of joint length.

Joint of different types of laminate

The need to design a joint arises if:

Used laminate with different locking systems
A difference in the height of the coatings is formed
Joint design, curvilinear
The podium or steps are sheathed with laminate
The area of the room exceeds 64 m² and the coating cannot be made continuous, an additional expansion joint is required

In these cases, to decorate the joints are used special connecting strips (sills, moldings). This is the best solution for laminate joints.:

Leaves room for temperature fluctuations
The threshold protects the ends of the laminate and closes the gap from above, preventing debris from entering it.

The sills differ in configuration and allow you to solve different problems:

Direct– for sealing joints between coatings that are on the same level
Leveling- for connecting coatings with a small (up to 4 mm) height difference
multi-level- for joints with a solid height difference (up to 2 cm), they can be coal, round or more complex
corner– for joints of mutually perpendicular coatings (steps, podiums)

They are made from different materials:

Laminated, from pressed chips, covered with a protective and decorative film. Usually matched to the tone of the laminate and allow you to make the joint as invisible as possible
From solid wood- expensive, elite
metal, aluminium, steel, anodized brass. These are the most durable overlays and can be used in high traffic areas, some of these products can also be bent to form curved joints.
Plastic(PVC) - flexible sills, ideal for decorating curved joints, are distinguished by a variety of colors. Affordable but not durable
Rubber usually angled

Laminate and tile joint

For joints between laminate and tiles, you can use the same thresholds as for decorating joints between two types of laminate, selecting them in accordance with the configuration of the joint. If the surfaces of the tile and laminate are on the same level, there is no height difference, you can arrange a joint without a threshold:

If the length of the joint does not exceed 2 m, and the width of the joint is 3 mm, it can be filled
Longer and wider seams are filled elastic composition(silicone sealant, polyurethane foam, liquid cork)
A long even seam without thickness differences is filled cork compensator, it is also permissible to use it with a slight difference in the height of the coatings

The technique for joining laminate and tiles is described in detail.

Joint between laminate and other floor coverings

Laminate joints with parquet, linoleum usually covered with sills, more often leveling or multi-level. Less commonly, the seam between the laminate and linoleum is filled with transparent silicone glue, this option is used if the coatings are on the same level, and the cuts at the junction are perfectly even. Masking tape must be glued along the edges so that the adhesive composition does not get on the surface of the coating.

If laminate and carpet are combined, a sufficiently rigid underlay is usually laid under the carpet, the thickness of which corresponds to the thickness of the laminate, and the carpet itself is laid with an overlap on the laminate. If they are joined, it is necessary to use a transitional multi-level threshold.

Installation of thresholds

Here are some types of sills by installation methods:

Two-piece T-shaped for flush mounting, fastened with screws (self-tapping screws)
One-piece with herringbone dowels, the caps of which are inserted into the groove from the wrong side of the nut
One piece for exposed screw fixing, supplied with pre-drilled fixing holes and cap screws
Z-shaped multi-level, with a zigzag leg, the foot of which is attached to the base with screws or glue
Flexible brass or aluminium, single sided tab divided into many sections
Flexible polymeric two-piece, from a groove and tabs
Self-adhesive

Self-adhesive sills are usually used if the base is loose and it is problematic to screw fasteners into it, as well as on top. Before installing them, the surfaces must be thoroughly cleaned and degreased, the protective coating removed from the lower part, the threshold must be applied in accordance with the markings and pressed well.

Two-piece strips with 2 legs are mounted in the following sequence:

The junction is marked
Holes with a diameter of 6 mm are drilled at the base on both sides of the seam in increments of 20-30 cm
Plastic dowels are driven into the holes
The mounting rail is installed in place and attached to the concrete base with self-tapping screws 60 mm long, to the wooden one - 45 mm
Floor coverings are laid on top of the paws, the seam between them must be wider than the mounting groove
The leg of the decorative strip is inserted into the mounting groove, it is driven into place with light blows of the mallet. First, the bar is partially recessed along the entire length, with a gradual advancement from one end to the other, then you need to repeat the operation, and only on the third run, hammer it to the full depth

If open fastening thresholds are used, the floor coverings must be laid first., then a threshold is applied on top and marking is made, holes are drilled in the designated places of the base, dowels are installed in them. The nut is put back in place and fixed with screws.

In a similar way, marking is carried out for one-piece sills with hidden dowels. The threshold is installed so that the dowels fall into the holes, and nailed with a mallet.

It is best to use the same brand of sills as the laminate. Quick Step produces laminated and aluminum multifunctional thresholds, with which you can make joints between different coatings, including multi-level ones. Their decorative strip consists of several segments, removing individual segments, you can change its configuration.

If a threshold with a zigzag leg (one foot) is mounted, a thicker coating is laid first. Then, next to it, a plank is fastened with screws or glued with a foot in the direction opposite to the laid coating. A thinner coating is laid over the foot. The upper part of the bar is set down with gentle hammer blows in 3 steps to the required height so that its edges press both mating coatings.

To close up a curved joint, you must first make markings on the floor, in accordance with which the profile of the flexible threshold is bent. The metal threshold can be bent using a special tool, as well as manually, relying on the knee.

The polymer groove, which is installed in the mounting seam, is bent during installation and fixed to the base with screws (dowels are first inserted into the holes). The upper, decorative part of the plastic nut acquires plasticity when heated and retains its shape after cooling. You can soften the insert with a building hair dryer or by placing it in water heated to 50-70 ° for 15-20 minutes. The insert is gradually pressed into the groove and carefully pressed.

Laminate joint with vertical surfaces

At the junction of the laminate with the wall
plinth is installed. It performs a dual function:

Covers the expansion gap
Decorates the joint, giving the atmosphere completeness

Also inside the hollow plinth there may be a box for hidden wiring.

In no case should the skirting board be attached to the laminate, only to the wall, and there should be a small gap between its lower edge and the surface of the laminate so that nothing prevents the thermal expansion of the floating coating.

The MDF skirting board goes well with the laminate. If the walls are even, you can use a traditional wooden plinth, fixing it with self-tapping screws or putting it on glue. With a significant curvature of the walls, a flexible plastic plinth is suitable, which is attached to clips or "petals" to the base, screwed to the wall with self-tapping screws.

The joints of the laminate with columns and other architectural elements are also decorated with a plinth or special overlays of a suitable shape.
If a communication pipe comes out of the floor at the place where the laminate is laid, it is necessary to cut a hole in the panel according to the template for it, and leave a compensation gap of 10-15 mm.

After laying the laminate, this gap is closed with a special decorative detachable overlay of a suitable color and shape. If the shape or location of the pipe(s) does not allow the use of linings, the gap can be filled with silicone sealant.

Video

Installation of different types of aluminum sills

Sealing the junction of laminate and tiles with a flexible thermoplastic threshold

Making laminate joints with Quick-Step accessories. Installation of thresholds, slips for pipes, plinth.

Outcome

The joints of the laminate with other coatings must be sealed in such a way that it remains possible for its thermal expansion. Elastic joint fillers (sealants), cork compensators are suitable for these purposes, but in most cases the joint is covered from above with a decorative threshold of a suitable configuration. There are sills that allow you to join coatings with a height difference.

The joints of the laminate with walls, columns and other architectural elements are decorated with a plinth, and it must be attached to a vertical surface. The joints of the laminate with communication pipes are usually closed with special decorative rosette overlays.

Laying laminate is not as easy as it seems at first glance. This process has a lot of nuances, the observance of which is important for the successful completion of the procedure. And the correct joining of the laminate between rooms, as well as with other coatings, just refers to these aspects of proper installation. The procedure is simple, but it is important to know how to join the laminate between rooms. Only with the necessary knowledge, it will be possible to create neat and beautiful floors.

How to dock laminate and tile - photo

This material, which is a rectangular long slats, which consist of several layers, is one of the most sought after floor coverings on the market. It is characterized by high strength, attractive appearance, ease of installation. The coating itself, created from a laminate, can serve for many years if strips of the appropriate quality were used for manufacturing, and they were correctly laid.

On a note! The thickness of one lamella varies between 9-11 mm. The width is 19.5 cm, and the length of the bar can be up to 185 cm.

The coating consists of several layers, its base is made of fiberboard, and other layers are located above and below it. From above, the coating is covered with a special protection made of melamine resin, under which there is a layer responsible for giving the material a certain color (for example, imitation of a cut of wood or stone). The bottom layer also performs a protective function. Thanks to the top layer, the coating is not afraid of exposure to ultraviolet rays, moisture and other external factors.

Laminate does not like water, and its side, unlike the bottom or top, usually does not have moisture protection. That is why it is important to correctly lay the material so that there are no gaps between the individual lamellas. However, often when laying a flooring in an apartment between separate rooms or other rooms, you have to join the lamellas - it is not always possible to lay a laminate with one continuous cover. Also, often this type of coating is joined with other types of materials for finishing the floor - for example, tiles, linoleum, etc.

On a note! Since laminate does not like water, it is rarely installed in rooms with high humidity. These are kitchens, bathrooms, bathrooms. Ceramic tiles usually take their rightful place there. And it is also very important to properly and beautifully dock with the laminate.

Prices for laminate "Tarkett"

tarkett laminate

Why you need a connection

Why is it so important to correctly arrange the joints of the laminate between rooms? There are several correct answers to this question:

individual sections of the coating are sometimes easier to dock between rooms than to continue to lay out the coating all over;
according to the recommendations of experts, every 7-8 meters between the rows of laminate should be gaps about 10-15 mm wide. They are necessary to compensate for the thermal expansion of the slats;
the design of the joints is necessary for joining different types of laminate, the interlocks of which do not match;
the procedure is performed with a combination of lamellas of different colors or different coatings when zoning a room;
it is also indispensable in the design of steps, if the room has a podium.

By itself, the locking connection between the lamellas is quite strong and reliable; it will not allow individual parts of the coating to walk. But the laminate is a “live” coating, it is able to change its dimensions depending on the temperature and humidity of the air, either expanding or narrowing. That is why the presence of deformation gaps is necessary. Still, the laminate has in its structure a wood component, which reacts sharply to changes in humidity and temperature.

On a note! Such deformation gaps must also remain along the walls along the perimeter of the room. Otherwise, the coating may bulge over time.

Thus, it is necessary to do the docking of individual parts of the coating and not always the reason is that it is required to connect the floors in separate rooms. It will also look ugly if you leave different types of coatings without joining.

How to join laminate

Connecting individual laminate planks between two rooms can be done in several ways. It can be docking with locks, directly available on the lamellas, docking with thresholds, cork compensator or adhesive mixtures such as sealants or mounting foam.

lock connection suitable if the same planks of the coating are joined, having the same structure and height. Simply put, when lamellas from the same batch are used. In this case, the locks will match exactly. Also, the method is suitable for small premises, where additional compensation gaps between the coating areas are simply not needed.

Nuts are used more often than other elements for docking. This is due to the simplicity of their installation, availability and low cost - you can buy sills at any hardware store for little money. The profile is simply screwed or glued (depending on the type of product) to the gap remaining between the laid sections of the coatings. This gap will be sufficient so that the lamellas can easily expand if necessary, and the coating will not rear up. By the way, sills can be made from a variety of materials, but standard metal ones are most often used. Their length can also vary.

On a note! With the help of thresholds, you can join a variety of types of floor coverings among themselves, including laminate with ceramic tiles or laminate with linoleum.

It is usually used only to connect two sections of a laminated coating, less often - to connect different types of coatings. Such a product will allow you to avoid the presence of gaps on the floor at all, since cork is a rather soft material and will simply wrinkle when the coating expands, and when it shrinks, it will return to its original shape again. The cork compensator is laid already immediately after the installation of the entire coating - with the help of a small spatula, as it were, it is inserted into the cavity of the remaining gap. Usually the cork is not even visible to the naked eye, since the color rarely differs from the coating itself. And if necessary, it can be tinted with a marker or paint.

Sealant and foam are used less often as they can stain the surface of the coating. But on the other hand, with their help, you can hide gaps of any width and join sections of coatings that have rather bizarre shapes. It is important to immediately remove excess material after application, otherwise after drying they will leave ugly marks. The main disadvantage of the method is the impossibility of dismantling this section of the panels if necessary. Also, due to the sealant, the lamellas cannot expand, which means that the method can only be used in small areas.

Sometimes connecting elements are produced together with the laminate. They are ideal for joining individual sections of the coating. They cost, as a rule, more than universal connecting elements. Typically, only large and well-known manufacturers of laminated flooring produce such options.

Types of connecting strips

All connectors for individual sections of flooring can be divided into several categories. They are divided by the type of material from which they are made, as well as by shape.

Table. What can sills be made from?

Type / material of manufacture	Peculiarities
	This type of sills is made from pressed wood shavings, in other words, these are MDF moldings. They have a laminated coating on the top, which gives the desired color to the product. Usually selected in accordance with the texture of the lamellae. They allow you to discreetly and beautifully join individual sections of the laminate floor. The disadvantage is that MDF moldings are afraid of moisture.
	It can be made of several types of metal - aluminum, brass, steel. The surface has a decorative finish, which is often done in gold, wood or silver. Due to the high strength of the product, they are usually installed in places with high traffic and a significant impact on the floor covering.
	Quite flexible and suitable for the design of figured joints between coatings. Such a threshold is made of plastic, it is inexpensive, it can be made in almost any color. The main drawback is the fragility, which is why such a threshold quickly loses its appearance.
	It usually looks like an angular profile and is used if you need to decorate the edges of stairs or podiums. Made from rubber. Strong, durable product with no sharp edges.
	A rather expensive option for sills, which is rarely used for joining laminate. It is more often used for the design of joints between individual sections of a natural wooden floor. The nut is difficult to care for, constantly requires varnishing and polishing.

Combined floor in the hallway - tiles and laminate

Also, profiles for decorating joints can have a different shape. They are:

direct- these are used to form joints between two types of laminate or between a laminate and other coatings. The main thing is that they have the same height, otherwise it will be inconvenient to fasten the sills;
transitional- this version of the nut is useful just for joining multi-level coatings;
corner- such a threshold is useful if you need to connect two perpendicular surfaces to each other, for example, when decorating podiums and stairs;
final– allow you to close the edge of the last lath of the laminate.

What to consider before starting installation work?

Before you start joining two separate sections of the laminate flooring or connecting it to another type of floor finish, you should take into account several features and make sure that all the necessary requirements for the working conditions have been met. For example, the installation of a laminate and its docking can only be carried out if the rough base is perfectly even. There shouldn't be any gaps.

On a note! The maximum horizontal deviation of the floor prepared for laying the laminate should not exceed 2 mm.

Also, do not lay and immediately acquired laminate. He must necessarily lie down in the room for two days before starting work. Otherwise, the coating will most likely heave over time, and even the presence of compensation gaps will not save the situation.

Laminate installation can be carried out only at positive temperatures. Work begins from the farthest corner of the room from the exit. It is also recommended to orient the lamellas along the direction of incidence of light rays, so the joints between the lamellas will be minimally noticeable.

Mounting of connecting strips

Let's see how the installation of connector thresholds is carried out, which are necessary for joining individual sections of the laminate between rooms.

Step 1. The first step is to measure the threshold and doorway. It is necessary to make sure that the product enters the opening and completely closes the deformation gap along the entire length.

Step 2 The threshold is applied to the installation site, markings are applied through the holes in it, which will allow you to outline the drilling points of the rough base. Dowel holes should be drilled in the center of the gap and not on the surface of the laminate. The location of the nut is also noted.

Step 3 At the marking site, holes are made in the subfloor. The diameter of the drill should be optimal for the size of the dowels included with the nut.

Step 4 Dowels are inserted into the holes made in the floor.

Step 5 The sill is placed in its intended place.

Step 6 The strap is fixed with self-tapping screws, which are screwed into plastic dowels and tightened tightly.

On sale there are also sills with hidden fasteners. In this case, you will have to act as follows.

Step 1. As in the previous case, the threshold and doorway are measured, and then markings are applied to the subfloor in the places where the dowels will be inserted.

Step 2 The nut with hidden fasteners has a groove on the reverse side into which the heads of the self-tapping screws are inserted. The dowels are screwed onto the self-tapping screws immediately.

Step 3 According to the previously applied marks, holes are made for the dowels.

Step 4 The nut is attached to the gap, which must be closed with it. Dowels fixed on self-tapping screws, moving along the groove, are inserted into the holes made by the perforator.

On a note! There are also self-adhesive sills on sale, on the wrong side they have a special adhesive tape that allows you to fix the product in the right place.

Video - Nut mounting option

Joining laminate and tiles

If you need to join the laminate and tiles, you can act in the same way as when installing metal thresholds, or you can use another version of the docking profile - a cork compensator.

Step 1. To install a flexible cork expansion joint, you will need to cut it not only to the required length of the doorway, but also in height so that it does not protrude above the surface of the coatings.

Step 2 The laminate at this stage has already been laid, you need to start laying the tiles. But first, the cork sill itself is glued to the base with the help of reliable building glue. First, glue is applied to the rough base along the edge of the laminate, on which the threshold is then laid, but is not temporarily pressed.

Step 3 Acrylic sealant is also used to seal the gaps between the cork compensator and the laminate. Then the cork expansion joint is pressed against the subfloor and the laminate.

Step 4 Excess sealant is removed with a sponge dipped in water. The surface is then wiped with a dry cloth.

Step 5 In the traditional way, on the other side of the cork compensator, ceramic tiles are laid on the glue.

In general, joining laminate and tiles is necessary to achieve aesthetic harmony, extend the life of coatings, and protect the joint from water.

Video - Option for joining laminate and tiles

It is not difficult to join individual sections of a laminate or different types of floor coverings to each other. The main thing is to know how it's done. In general, if you follow the installation instructions, difficulties should not arise even for novice craftsmen.