How to make a roof at home with your own hands - an easy option for a home master. Do-it-yourself roof Do-it-yourself roof at home

Roofing on a country house is a crucial moment. Mistakes here are fraught with significant material and monetary losses, and living in a house with a bad roof is truly painful. But troubles of this kind can be avoided if you take design and execution responsibly. The ability to install the roof on your own, without trusting hired specialists, can help with this.

How to mount a roof with your own hands

The device of a reliable roofing system on a country house is the final chord of the cycle of measures for its construction. Then only the finishing work remains to achieve the realization of your dream.

Getting to the device of the roof on the house, you need to clearly understand its purpose.

Reliable shelter of the building from the vicissitudes of the weather, which does not allow leaks.
Thermal protection of the interior even at the lowest possible outdoor temperatures for this area.
A harmonious arrangement of the shape and color scheme of the finish coating, corresponding to the exterior of the building frame and the landscape of the site and giving them additional charm.

Photo gallery: roofs made of various materials

A classic hipped metal roof can last up to 50 years A properly arranged multi-pitched roof will be reliable and durable, despite the large number of joints and junctions Copper roofing materials are an indicator of the taste and wealth of the owner of the house and serve for more than 100 years Natural tiles require reinforced sheathing, but they last a very long time and look impressive and attractive. Soft tiles can cover the roof of any complexity

Is it possible to install a roof with your own hands

In order to objectively understand and correctly assess your capabilities, you need to learn how to perform the following operations using various sources.

Display the structure of the roof of the house at the level of at least the draft design.
Calculate the need for materials for the rafter system, roofing pie and topcoat.
Determine the Mauerlat installation scheme in order to distribute the loads from the roof to the walls as much as possible and securely fasten the truss system.
Choose the optimal angle of inclination of the slopes.
Calculate the pitch of the rafters.
Evaluate the need to install additional metal fasteners for the roof frame.
To study the purpose of the crate and counter-crate and the rules for their installation.
Clearly represent the order of installation of the layers of the roofing pie of the insulated roof.
Understand the principles of selection and location of the roof finish, as well as methods of its fastening.
Know the nomenclature and purpose of additional elements of the roof and the procedure for their installation.

As you can see, this list is far from complete and requires a rather serious preliminary preparation on theoretical issues. Next, you need to take care of the tool for the production of work. His set does not include anything special - these are, as a rule, ordinary manual and electrical devices that are available in the household of almost any owner of a country house.

But most importantly, you need to assess the level of your own skills in performing carpentry and roofing. We note at once that purely theoretical knowledge is clearly not enough here. It is advisable to take part in such events several times in order to see the working methods and ways of performing individual operations, as well as their sequence.

Video: gable roof - how to make it easy and simple

Stages of roof installation

The installation of the truss system begins with the attachment of a support device called a Mauerlat.

Mauerlat installation

In private suburban construction, the mauerlat is a bar made of coniferous wood with a section of 150x100 or 150x150 mm. It performs two important functions.

Uniform distribution of the load from the upper structure of the building to its walls.
Formation of the base for fastening the elements of the truss system.

Thus, the mauerlat is the link between the frame of the house and its roofing system. It is laid on load-bearing walls and fastened in various ways:

linking with wire ties, pre-laid into the walls during their laying;
The wire can be immured into the wall during its laying or inserted into specially drilled holes later.
fastening with studs to the armored belt, if such is provided for by the design of the house;
The studs are inserted and tied to the reinforcement cage before the concrete is poured.
installation of a mauerlat with fixation to the wall with brackets using bookmarks made of wood laid during masonry.
If wooden inserts are laid in a brick wall during masonry, a Mauerlat can be attached to them using metal brackets

These are the main ways of attaching the supporting base to the walls of the house.

Installation of the truss system

For the manufacture of the roof frame, various materials are used:

a bar made of coniferous wood with transverse dimensions of 150x50 mm. For a small house, even a material with a section of 100x50 mm will be enough;
wooden glued profiles in the form of an I-beam or a beam;
metal profiles such as rectangular pipes or beams with a transverse dimension up to 150 mm;
plastic profiles of various sections.

The choice of material depends on its price and availability on the market. It should be noted that wood and metal need additional anti-corrosion (for metal) or antiseptic and fire-prevention (for wood) surface treatment.

The truss system is mounted in several ways.

Assembly directly at the installation site. The material is fed to the roof and already there, focusing on the place, the parts are produced and installed. This installation procedure allows you to continuously monitor the quality of the assembly and make the necessary adjustments in a timely manner.
One of the ways to install the truss system is to assemble it on site.
Assembly at the bottom on a specially installed slipway. The first pair is assembled according to the drawing with careful observance of all dimensions. Subsequent rafter legs are made using the first piece as a template. Upon completion of work, a set of rafter legs is supplied to the installation site and installed there. The trusses assembled at the bottom usually include two rafters and an upper puff. This configuration provides form stability and the weight of the products available for manual lifting.
If the roof trusses are small, they can be assembled completely on the ground
Installation of a truss system from ready-made trusses. They are ordered at specialized enterprises according to their own drawings. Delivery and (at the request of the customer) installation is carried out by the contractor's personnel. To assemble the truss system in this way, as a rule, lifting equipment is used, but the quality is guaranteed.
If roof trusses are ordered in production, they will be made perfectly accurately and with high quality.

Video: assembling rafters on the ground

Roofing pie device

The roofing cake is formed in the process of roof insulation. The question is natural - why is it necessary? It has been established that up to 25–30% of the heat received from the heating system in the house escapes through an uninsulated roof. A simple calculation shows that the costs incurred for the insulation of the upper building will pay off quickly. In addition, an uninsulated roof produces a lot of noise during rainfall, especially if it is made of metal profiles. The roofing cake, in addition to the function of insulation, successfully copes with noise absorption.

The insulating device for the roof is formed from several layers, each of which performs a specific function.

The roofing cake of an insulated roof consists of several layers laid in a strictly defined order.

vapor barrier

The purpose of the vapor barrier is to prevent moisture from the air coming from the living quarters from entering the under-roof space. The fact is that one of the layers of the roofing cake is a heater, which is a fibrous material. Moisture can accumulate in the capillaries of the insulation array, which leads to its clumping and loss of basic functional properties.

To prevent this process, diffusion films are used. They are covered with microscopic holes that can pass moisture in only one direction. Therefore, when properly positioned relative to the insulation, the film protects it from external moisture, while simultaneously releasing water molecules from the inside and thus drying it.

The roofing cake begins to take shape with the installation of a vapor barrier

An effective way to use vapor barrier films for pitched roofs is to place them directly on top of the insulation. Such a device allows you to use the entire length of the rafters for insulation. But for this it is necessary to hermetically connect the individual canvases, for which adhesive tape is used.

The most popular are three-layer films made of polypropylene "Yutafol D Standard", "Yutafol D Silver" and "Yutafol D Special". For ease of installation, a colored strip is applied along the edges of the film, indicating the amount of overlap during installation. For slopes with a slope of less than 20 o, its value should be 20 cm, for steeper roofs - 10 cm. Flooring is made along the roof, starting from the bottom rows.

The release form of vapor barrier films is rolls up to 1.5 m wide and 10 m long.

insulation

When a person hears the word "roof", he creates an association with warmth and comfort in the room. This is possible only if the right insulation material is selected. The purpose of this layer is not to heat the roof, but to keep the heat generated in the house, so the key to success is its correct choice, which largely depends on the design of the roof. Otherwise, the general requirements for all types of this material are almost the same.

The decisive factor is the thickness of the insulation. The rules for its determination are given in SNiP 23.02.2003 "Thermal protection of buildings". In accordance with this document, it is possible to obtain the value of the thermal resistance of the structure, determined by regional coefficients, depending on climatic conditions. Using the data on the thermal conductivity of the material (certificate indicator), you can determine the thickness of the insulation in meters.

According to the types of materials, the insulation is classified as follows.

Expanded polystyrene - the made foam plastic which is let out in plates. It has a low specific gravity and thermal conductivity. It is laid, as a rule, in several layers with overlapping joints. Used for thermal insulation of flat roofs, its service life is determined by manufacturers at 50 years.
Styrofoam boards are commonly used to insulate flat roofs.
Polyurethane foam - gas-filled plastic mass. Most often used for thermal insulation of roofs and attics. With low thermal conductivity and low weight, it has vapor barrier properties and has a long service life.
Mineral wool. It is made from natural materials, does not burn, perfectly saves heat. Moisture absorption is low, rodents do not live in it and bacteria and insects do not develop.
Mineral wool foil insulation has high thermal insulation properties due to the heat reflecting coating
Glass wool. This is a kind of materials made from waste from the production of glass. Such a heater is not combustible, resistant to getting wet and does not support the vital activity of rodents.

In terms of manufacturability and price indicators, mineral wool is most often used for insulation, various modifications of which are suitable for pitched and flat roofs. The most commonly used materials are Knauf (glass wool plates) and Rockwool (mineral wool), which have long gained popularity among consumers.

Finnish-made Isover roll insulation is also popular. He appeared on the Russian market one of the first and still enjoys well-deserved authority. It is applied both to roofs, and to walls.

Waterproofing

Moisture can get into the insulation layer not only from the internal space, but also from the outside. This occurs in cases where there are even small defects in the laying of the finish coating, as well as as a result of moisture condensation on its inner surface. In addition, any vapor barrier protection does not give a full guarantee against the ingress of moisture into the insulation, so it must also be removed.

To protect against these adverse events, a layer of waterproofing is laid between the insulation and roofing material. Waterproofing films are of the following types.

Waterproofing films are rolled out perpendicular to the rafters from the bottom up. We remind you of some rules for its installation:

the amount of overlap during laying should be 15-20 cm, some manufacturers have decided to designate the size of the overlap with color marking;
all connections must be fastened with special perforated tape;
the waterproofing film is fixed on the rafters with the help of a counter rail up to 50 mm thick with the formation of a gap for ventilation.

For a cold roof, it is better to use a budget version of a universal or diffusion film. Suitable brands such as "Yutafol D", "Izospan D", "Folder D" and others. You can buy more expensive products, but the ratio of price, quality and functionality will not be in their favor.

For an insulated roof or attic, you can use a universal or diffusion film of the same brands, but with a mandatory ventilation duct. Superdiffusion can be laid on any roof and with any type of insulation. Popular brands are "Folder", "Tyvek", "Yutavek", "Light", "Delta", "Vent" and others.

Finishing coatings for roofing

A variety of materials are used to cover roofs. However, the basic requirements for them remain unchanged.

Tightness, providing complete protection of the interior from moisture and water in any of its manifestations.
Quietness that protects the living space from sounds coming from the roof during heavy rainfall.
Durability, allowing the roof to be used for at least 15, and in some cases up to 50 years. Some types of roofs (slate, ceramic tiles, copper) allow you to increase this period to hundreds of years or more.
The total weight of the roofing system must correspond to the bearing capacity of the building frame and its foundation.
The appearance of the roof should harmoniously fit into the exterior of the site and the house.

In private housing construction, metal roofing is quite popular.

Decking. It is made of galvanized sheet metal 0.45–0.7 mm thick by profiling, coated with a layer of zinc in its commercial form. In some cases, a paintwork or plastic coating is applied to the surface, which increases the service life and appearance of the products.
Metal tile. It is made from the same material by stamping in a form that imitates natural tiles. Such roofing is always supplied with an additional protective layer of resistant paint or plastic.
Fake roof. It consists of smooth galvanized sheets connected with a special seam - a fold.
Coatings from non-ferrous metals - aluminum and copper. They can be shaped like shingles or come in the form of flat sheets for seam roofs.

Photo gallery: varieties of metal roofing materials

A beautiful and durable roof for a building of any type is obtained from a metal tile. The roof of the house from corrugated board will be reliable, durable and inexpensive With the correct arrangement of the connecting seam, the seam roof lasts for several decades Roofing made of copper tiles is difficult to fit, but it looks very beautiful and lasts more than 100 years.

Other roofing materials are also used.

Asbestos slate - not so long ago, he was the leader in the list of roofing materials. Recently, its positions have been pushed back by other types of materials. Today, slate is most often used to cover secondary buildings, although it has fairly high consumer properties.
Traditional asbestos slate is still a popular roofing material.
Tiles are ceramic, molded from certain types of clay and fired in kilns. The material has high strength and is easy to install due to its small size. Its only drawback is its heavy weight, requiring a fairly solid foundation. Service life in some cases exceeds 50 years.
Traditional ceramic material allows you to get a beautiful, reliable and durable roof
Cement-sand and concrete tiles are produced in formats close to ceramic counterparts and have similar mechanical and consumer properties. It can be dyed in various colors by adding dyes to the solution during the production process. A clear disadvantage of such material is its heavy weight.
Cement-sand tiles look very beautiful and serve for a long time, but require a powerful truss system due to the large weight
Roof coverings made of composite materials, such as Shinglas tiles or ondulin, are made from cellulose with the addition of fibrous materials. In the production process, they are impregnated with polymer-bitumen compounds, which makes the material resistant to moisture and ultraviolet radiation. The advantage of this topcoat is its low weight. The service life is determined at least 30 years, although confirmation of this fact can be obtained a little later.
For low-pitched and flat roofs, welded roofing from rolled materials is often used. The basis for their manufacture are polymer meshes or fiberglass. For installation, the lower surface of the web is heated with a gas-flame burner and glued to the prepared surface. The top layer is covered with a topping of granite, basalt or slate chips. The peculiarity is the need for regular inspection and maintenance of the roof to identify and eliminate damage. The service life of such roofs does not exceed 10 years. The main types of rolled materials on the Russian market are TechnoNIKOL, Uniflex, Bikrost.
Welded roll materials are usually used for flat and low pitched roofs.
Liquid roofs - are made from molten bitumen or liquid rubber-type compounds by direct pouring onto the prepared surface. Distribution over the surface is carried out with special scrapers. The layer thickness should not exceed two millimeters. The result is a continuous coating without seams and joints.
The self-leveling roof is a continuous sealed roofing carpet

From among the purely natural materials for the finishing coating of roofs, one can distinguish such as shale, straw and reeds, as well as wooden shingles. They are rarely used and are not competitive in the market.

Features of installation of various types and roof units

The roof covering must have a number of important characteristics, which were mentioned above:

tightness;
sufficient strength;
UV resistance;
compliance with climatic conditions.

Flexible roof device

These conditions are fully met by flexible tiles, while being much cheaper than other materials. Before laying shingles on the crate, geotextiles must be laid to organize high-quality drainage. The use of this coating is possible for buildings of any purpose and for any form of roofing.

The dimensions of the tile sheet are 1.0x0.33 m, it is made of fiberglass impregnated with polymer-bitumen compounds with the addition of various modifiers and plasticizers. The outer surface is covered with a protective layer of various types of crumbs, which gives it immunity to ultraviolet radiation.

Video: installation of shingles

Hard roof device

Rigid roofs can be made from various materials:

corrugated board;
metal tile;
slate;
sheet coating in the form of galvanized or non-ferrous metals.

The installation process of the finish coating may look like this.

Overhang formation. To do this, fillies (extensions) are stuffed along each rafter leg, the cord is pulled between the extreme ends and the fillies are trimmed along one line.
Installation of waterproofing. The film is laid at a right angle to the rafters in the direction from the bottom up and fixed with counter-latticing bars.
Lathing installation. It is laid from a board 25x100 or 25x150 mm. For profiled materials, the crate is made sparse. At the same time, at a distance of 400–500 mm from the ridge, it is continuous.
Under hard coatings, the crate is sparse everywhere, except for the area of \u200b\u200bthe ridge and valleys
Finishing coat. It is made from any corner of the roof also in the direction from the bottom up. The amount of overlap is calculated in advance, it should not be less than recommended for the type of coating used. First, shelter is performed with the first row until the ridge is reached, after which the installation of the second and subsequent rows begins in the same order. Coating materials are fastened in accordance with the manufacturer's recommendations.
Installation of ridge slats and design of overhangs.
For filing cornice overhangs, it is best to use plastic or metal spotlights with perforations for ventilation of the under-roof space

Each coating has its own mounting methods and appropriate fasteners. Additional elements of the roof are installed during installation.

Video: do-it-yourself metal profile installation

Installation of a cold roof

Installing a cold roof on a house is appropriate in areas where temperature differences are small and the heating season is short. This performs the following operations.

Installation of roofing accessories

Roof accessories include the following products.

Snow guards. They are fences in the form of barriers made of profile metal to retain snow on the roof slopes. Their purpose is to prevent spontaneous descent of snow masses, as a result of which injury to people is possible. Snow guards are attached to the roof finish on special stands. For metal tiles, these parts have a special shape.
Snow guards prevent spontaneous snow from falling off the roof in winter
Stationary roof ladders. They are attached to the wall of the house (vertical part) and fixed on the ridge (pitched part). They are used when inspecting the roof, performing current repairs, as well as for servicing chimneys.
Roof ladders are designed for safe climbing to and from the roof.
Roof skates. They are included in the package of delivery of the finishing coating, designed for installation at the intersection of roof slopes.
Roof walkways, which, like ladders, are necessary for moving along the roof during inspections, repairs and other operations at height.
Roof walkways ensure safe work at heights
Roof railings. They are installed along the perimeter of the slopes and are intended to prevent people from falling during work on the roof. They are used on the roofs of houses with two floors and above.

Roof gutters

Gutters are an important part of the roof structure, as their function is to collect water from the roof, including rain, melt and condensate. They are installed between water intake funnels.

There are two ways to install gutters.

Hanging gutters are mounted on top of the cornice paintings on special hooks.
Wall-mounted mounted on brackets attached to the wall.

Work on the installation of gutters is carried out after the completion of the design of overhangs. Regardless of the installation method, the gutters work equally well on roofs with any slope angle.

Video: installing gutters

Typical mistakes when installing a roof

Inexperienced builders often make mistakes that can later lead to significant costs.

The absence of an armored belt over the walls of foam concrete blocks. Consequences - as a result of moistening of foam concrete and the impact of concentrated loads from the truss system, the wall is destroyed at the reference points, the roof warps with a violation of the tightness of the coating.
Ignoring the need to attach the rafter legs to the Mauerlat. As a result of the impact of wind loads, the roof structure can be shifted or carried away at extreme values of the impact. Violated the requirements of paragraphs 5.1 and 7.1 of SNiP 31.02.2001.
Incorrect arrangement or lack of ventilation ducts. Ventilation is necessary for rooms with high air humidity - toilets, bathrooms, kitchens, etc. In its absence, the development of fungal and putrefactive formations that contribute to the destruction of the supporting structures of the house is possible. In addition, it negatively affects the health of residents.
Incorrect execution of the places where the rafter legs rest on the Mauerlat due to the lack of a support platform in the form of an oblique cut. As a result, there is an uncontrolled displacement of the rafter legs and deformation of the entire truss system. There is a violation of paragraphs 5.9 and 6.16 of SNiP II-25-80. The consequences are the displacement of the rafter legs and the destruction of the roof completely.
No rafters. Their purpose is to create a rigid triangle in roof trusses. In the absence of puffs, the roof moves apart and collapses. Ceiling transfers can be used as these elements.

This list can be continued for a long time. It is necessary to understand one circumstance - it is necessary to strictly comply with the requirements of the agreed and approved project.

When planning work on arranging the roof, you need to take care of the problems that may arise during its operation.

Purchase some spare fasteners so that you can replace damaged parts.
Buy a small can of paint of the appropriate color to repair damage to the protective layer.
For the first time after installation, at least once a month, inspect the roof surface for damage. Detected defects must be eliminated immediately, preventing their development. This is especially true for poured and built-up roofs.

In order for the operation of the roof to be long and trouble-free, it needs constant attention, as well as a small repair kit for timely intervention if necessary.

In principle, there is nothing super complicated in installing a roof with your own hands. You just need to know the basic rules for performing work and clearly understand the mechanics of the roofing system. It is important to start right, that is, to create a draft design. After that, it is necessary to show it to a specialist designer and eliminate all comments. It should also be understood that self-manufacturing of the roof does not mean doing all the work alone.

Its advantages include the possibility of saving on roofing material and scaffolding, ease and speed of construction, low weight.

Disadvantages: not very attractive appearance and lack of an attic or its small size.

gable- much more popular than single-sided.

Its obvious advantages are relatively low weight (compared, for example, with a four-hinged one), a fairly large attic space, the possibility of arranging an attic in the under-roof space, as well as an attractive, harmonious appearance. This type of roof is heated by the sun's rays from both sides.

The roof does not have any particular disadvantages. One can only point to its relatively heavy weight and greater consumption of building materials than in the construction of a pitched roof.

For a gable roof, you need a ridge (one-pitched roof does not need it) and gutters to drain rainwater.

hipped roof

This type of roof is not very popular, since its construction is quite complicated and certain skills are required to build a hipped roof with your own hands.

The obvious advantages of this type of roof include its aesthetic appearance, a large attic space. The possibility of four-sided heating makes the attic very warm.

Among the disadvantages of this type, one should indicate its large weight and, as already mentioned, the complexity of construction work.

Combined roof

An ideal choice for a multi-level building or a structure that is not quite rectangular in shape. It looks quite original, besides, it harmoniously fits into almost any area.

A combined type roof is much easier to build, since it can be built in separate sections: at the first stage of work, cover a terrace located on the second floor under one slope; then build a gable roof over the bedrooms; at the next stage, cover the protruding section of the kitchen on the ground floor, etc.

The photo shows different types of roofs: 1 - single-sided; 2 - gable; 3 - broken line or attic; 4 - hip (four-slope); 5 - tent; 6 - multi-forceps.

There is also a hipped roof, which consists of four identical slopes in the form of isosceles triangles; the roof of Sudeikin and others.

With all the variety of types of roofs, their construction is based on several basic principles. Having caught them, you can independently build even the most complex roof.

The entire construction process is divided into several main stages. So, we will learn how to build a roof with our own hands.

Mauerlat mount

The foundation, which takes on the main part of the load, is the Mauerlat. The whole roof is built on it. Beams with a section of 15x15 cm are used. They are installed parallel to the roof ridge.

For the strength of the roof and resistance to adverse weather conditions, the Mauerlat beams should be securely fastened, and this must be taken care of already when laying the walls.

For this purpose, a strong thick rope is laid between the blocks (bricks) at a distance of 1 meter, starting from the fourth floor. It's called katanka.

The middle part of the wire must be fixed in the brickwork, and the ends should be left hanging down. Their length should be sufficient for the subsequent tying of the timber. If plastering is planned, then the outer end of the wire will need to be mounted in the solution.

Photo: fastening the Mauerlat with wire twist

Mauerlat should recede from the edge of the wall by at least 10 cm. To protect the beams from decay, it is necessary to lay roofing layers under them.

Frame installation

To ensure sufficient strength of the roof, it is necessary to take care of the frame. The frame of the house is the rafters attached to the Mauerlat.

It should be borne in mind that with a beam length of more than 4.5 cm, it will be necessary to additionally mount the runs. The optimal size of the beams is considered to be a section of 7x15 cm.

The rafters are attached to the Mauerlat using a special cutout, fixed with 20 cm nails. Kill them like this:

the first is driven diagonally through the rafter into the mahuelat;
the second is nailed in a similar way on the reverse side;
the third nail is hammered perpendicularly from above.

Thanks to this technology, the rafter is firmly attached and does not move.

The upper part of the overlapping beams is attracted to each other in such a way that the edge of one beam overlaps the end of the other (parallel). They are fastened with nails or bolts.

Roof reinforcement

To reduce the impact of the expansion force on the Mauerlat and increase the strength of the roof, the rafter legs must be fastened together using beams with a cross section of 5x15 cm.

This structural detail is called the "crossbar".

So, the size of the crossbar and the distance between the rafters to be connected correspond to each other. Fastening should be done with nails.

It is also necessary to take care of fastening to each rafter leg of the filly, which is a board with a section of 50x100 cm. It is fixed with metal brackets and screws to one side of the rafter leg.

Its length is calculated in the following way: 50 cm are added to the length of the overhang.

To avoid difficulties, you need to think in advance about harvesting filly. To do this, a cutout is made on the board, the width of which is 15 cm, with which it is attached to the Mauerlat.

Particular attention should be paid to ensuring that the boards and rafters converge exactly. It is better to complete all these works before the construction of the truss system begins, so that then you can simply assemble the entire structure.

At this stage, you also need to choose the value of the angle of inclination of the roof. For the correct choice, it is necessary to take into account the specifics of the area. For example, in the presence of heavy rainfall and a fairly cold climate, an inclination angle of 40 to 45 degrees is considered ideal.

On such a roof, snow does not accumulate, which avoids an increase in pressure on the floors. The distance between the rafter legs should be 1 meter.

In hot and dry climates, the minimum tilt angle is 3 degrees.

In areas with frequent strong winds, the optimal angle of inclination is 20 degrees.

For an accurate calculation, you should use the rules used by professionals.

Builders measure this value using a special tool - an inclinometer. Before starting measurements, it is necessary to calculate the required angle.

For this, a special formula is used: the value of the angle of inclination is equal to the height of the ridge divided by the figure obtained by dividing the length of the roof by two.

crate

To cover the roof, you will need to make a crate. When choosing tiles as a roofing material, the crate must be continuous.

In the photo, the structural elements of the roof: 1. roof roofing; 2. border; 3. ventilation hatch; 4. skate; 5. rafters (rafter leg); 6. auxiliary elements; 7. counter beam (counter beam); 8. roof lathing; 9. safety protective element; 10. cornice gutter; 11. frieze (border) of the wall; 12. groove or valley; 13. drainage drain pipe; 14. snow-retaining fence; 15. vents for steam outlet; 16. support bridge; 17. anchor base plate; 18. strapping element; 19. lightning rod; 20. connection of technical equipment from the premises; 21. air duct; 22. access to the roof; 23. recumbent dormer (attic) window; 24. standing dormer window; 25. pipe (furnace chimney); 26. sloping roof slab; 27. attic floor; 28. dividing wall of the attic space; 29. thermal insulation.

For work, solid wooden boards are required, the thickness of which is approximately 25 cm. Particular attention should be paid to the absence of cracks and chips on them. The length of the boards should be equal to two spans between the rafters, i.e., be 2 meters.

In this case, the joints will be located only on the supports. The distance between them should be no more than 5 mm. The boards used to form the ridge should be placed as close as possible to each other. Fastening is carried out using nails 20 cm long.

The choice of lathing option depends on the type of roofing material.

If it is planned to create rolled soft roofs, then the lathing of the crate must be whole (solid). In the presence of a slate or metal roof, a discharged crate is suitable.

If necessary, you can make the flooring double. In this case, the first layer must be laid in the standard order - parallel to the ridge, and the second - along the slope, perpendicularly.

Ventilation

To cover the roof of the crate is not enough. You need to think about its integrity during operation.

In order for the tiles to be ventilated, it is necessary to leave gaps in the crate, two or three ventilation channels on each side. Channels should start at the bottom of the overhang and end as high as possible. The width is approximately 5 cm. At the top, an outlet is installed under the hood to remove air.

Installation of drips and lining layer

To protect the roofing from the harmful effects of condensate on the crate, it is necessary to lay a lining layer. Its installation is carried out only along the edges, where there is a high probability of water seepage: on internal valleys, near pipes, to the ridge.

The width of the lining layer should be approximately 40 cm. The carpet is nailed with screws or nails at a distance of about 25-30 cm.

If necessary, you can lay another layer, it should be located on top of the already nailed one. You can glue the overlap with bituminous glue.

Another stage of work before covering the roof should be the installation of droppers. They are metal plates to protect the eaves from moisture.

The planks are nailed with nails at a distance of 10 cm, and the overlap is 5 cm. Droppers are fixed on the ridge in a similar way.

A flexible tile is attached to the plates, which helps to improve both the functions of the dripper and its appearance. Since the plates are self-adhesive, they must first be removed from the protective layer and only then attached to the eaves. For greater reliability, it is recommended to additionally nail them with nails.

Installation of roofing material

The choice of roofing material depends on the type of roof. Each option implies its own rules and installation conditions.

Flexible shingles

To facilitate overlapping and uniform distribution of tiles, the process should be started from the middle of the eaves. The protective film is removed from the shingle and glued to the base.

Then nails are nailed along the edges. The best option is galvanized nails with fairly wide hats. The joints of the shingle must be closed with ledges.

If the project assumes the presence of pipes, then special passage elements are attached along the perimeter of the shingle cut. The tile should be glued with an overlap in place of the ridge.

In the presence of a brick pipe that heats up, it would be better to put a triangular bar at the corner of the pipe and the roof. At a distance of about 20 cm from the pipe, a lining carpet is laid, and a special connector is put on the pipe. Cracks should be sealed with sealant.

metal tile

A discharged crate should be laid under the metal tile. The amount of material can be calculated by adding the length of the slope from the ridge to the eaves, the vertical overlap of the sheets and the eaves overhang.

The first of the sheets is laid and aligned along the end and eaves, the second should be laid on top, and the third on the side. Above the second sheet is the fourth.

The entire resulting structure must be leveled and attached to the crate using self-tapping screws. In accordance with this scheme, the entire roof is assembled.

External corners and ridge battens must be overlapped and fastened with self-tapping screws. Close the ridge from the ends with plugs.

Start covering the metal tile from the bottom, in the upper direction, from left to right. The tiles are preliminarily laid out in small (5 pieces each) stacks. They are placed on slopes.

In this case, the load exerted on the rafters is distributed evenly. Tiles are attached to the rafters with galvanized screws. On each of the sheets there are special wells, with which you need to attach the sheets to each other.

Cornice filing

This work is carried out at the final stage. The walls should already be insulated, since the filing box should fit snugly against them. Otherwise, it will be necessary to either break the filing, or leave the wall section uninsulated.

Preferably, the lining is made of wood. So it will be possible not to carry out additional ventilation. The filing is a kind of box attached to the continuation of the rafters and the filly.

In the photo, the design of the cornice overhang

Its frame consists of two boards, one of which goes from the end of the overhang towards the wall, while the second goes down from the rafters. Boards are joined at right angles. Self-tapping screws or screws are used to fasten the joints.

Metal plates are also used. Between the boards, be sure to leave small gaps. The corners of the box are cut at a certain slope, and they are fastened with metal brackets and self-tapping screws.

Then the lower part of the frame is upholstered with boards along the entire length. Since they are exposed to the environment, they must be fastened very carefully, especially at the edges. It is also necessary to pay attention to the fact that the joints of the rows of adjacent beams do not coincide. Corners need to be cut at 45 degrees.

Roof insulation

Insulation is no less important than the construction of the roof itself.

There are several options for insulation: from above and from the inside of the crate.

If the attic space will not be used as a living area, then internal insulation can be carried out. It will also allow you to hide the free space between the rafters.

First of all, it is necessary to cover the entire perimeter of the roof with a waterproofing film. Since the rafters are located on top of the crate, it is impossible to stretch the film with a canvas.

It is necessary to ensure that the film covers all the details of the structure. Between the rafters and the crate, in the corners, wooden slats are nailed over the film. Then mineral wool must be nailed to the crate between the rafters. The plates of this insulation must be laid end to end with each other.

The next layer is a vapor barrier film. Its lower edge must be attached to the rafters. The joints of two films (waterproofing and vapor barrier) must be superimposed on each other and tightly fixed with construction tape.

If the attic is planned to be used as a living space, then care should be taken to ensure that the roof is warmer.

In this case, the film and insulation must be laid on top of the roof structures and battens. The use of polyurethane foam boards should be avoided as this material cannot be joined tightly enough.

Mineral wool is the best choice as one layer. It is also necessary to use a waterproofing film. The principle of work on insulation is similar to that described.

It is more reliable to use mineral wool as one of the layers and be sure to use a waterproofing film. In fact, the principle of insulation work is not too different.

So, we build a roof with our own hands

To build a roof of a house with your own hands, you need to follow the following steps:

Fixing the Mauerlat;
Installation of rafters;
crate;
Installation of droppers, lining layer;
Installation of roofing material;
Cornice filing;
Roof insulation.

We offer you a video about the roof:

When building a country house on your own, a lot of money is saved on hiring workers. If you have the skills and tools, most of the work can be done independently. However, when building a roof with your own hands, you will not be able to cope alone. Roofing requires three to four people.

Terminology

Before talking about the installation of the roof, it is worth remembering a few names of structural elements and understanding what they mean:

Roof - a structure on the top floor of the house, protecting the building from the temperature and atmospheric effects of the environment.
A roof is the top covering of a roof that directly protects it from rain, snow and hail.
Mauerlat - a beam or a log (in the case of a wooden structure), a channel, a beam, laid along the outer perimeter of the building, transferring the mechanical load directly to the load-bearing walls.
Rafters are called inclined bearing parts, as a rule, they are a wooden beam. The purpose of the rafters is to redistribute the load on the load-bearing walls, as well as support the roof.

Roof types

Today, there are many types of roofs - the main ones are one-, two-, four-slope (hip), multi-slope, attic and half-hip. Different types are used depending on the purpose of the premises, as well as on financial capabilities and taste preferences.

Shed roof - the most budget option that does not require large expenditures of materials. As a rule, it is used for garages and outbuildings. However, in order to save money, it is quite possible to block her and a small residential building.

The most common in individual construction is a gable roof. This is due to the simplicity of its arrangement and its versatility. The slope of the gable roof is determined by the distance between the load-bearing walls of the house.

From a geometric point of view, a hipped roof consists of four isosceles triangles converging at its top, and the shape really resembles a tent. It is a design that has not received wide distribution due to the high cost and complexity of manufacturing.

A four-pitched roof differs from a hipped roof by the presence of a ridge at its top. The road to manufacture is also difficult, as is the tented one, but we must pay tribute to their appearance - they look chic, and this type of roof most often appears in the photo of expensive country houses.

Multi-pitched roofs are used very rarely, and, as a rule, due to the complex layout of the house, or if there are extensions in the house.

Mansard roofs combine the function of both the roof and the walls of the room. They are much more difficult to manufacture than conventional gables, but are popular due to their practicality. And with a creative approach, having correctly calculated the drawing, the attic can also be organized under a gable roof.

Roof slope calculation

In areas with cold winters and a lot of snow, if the slope is incorrectly calculated, whole snowdrifts will form on the roof. Ultimately, this can end in failure - snow can push through the roof.

When using slate or tiles, you should remember about the joints between sheets and tiles. If the angle is small, then the roof may begin to leak.

The approximate calculation of the roof slope is as follows - for snowy areas at least 40 degrees. The drawings provide such data - gable roofs are placed at a slope of 30-45 degrees, single-pitched - 25-30.

Roof installation

The construction and installation of a gable roof takes place in stages in several steps. The first of these is the installation of the Mauerlat. The Mauerlat is fixed with studs or anchors to the top of the load-bearing wall.

It is important to place the Mauerlat beams in the same plane, preferably in the same horizontal level. They are arranged, ideally, so that the Mauerlat makes up the correct rectangle.

The second stage - truss trusses are assembled, after which the rafters are installed on the floors. First of all, a drawing of the frame is drawn up, the length of the legs of the rafters is calculated, as well as the angle of the connection.

Farm assembly takes place on the ground. First of all, trusses located from the edges are fixed. After their installation, the rest are fixed at an equal distance. Having mounted the trusses, on both sides of the roof, along the upper edge of the slope, a board of 150X50 mm is nailed, 30 cm long more than the length of the cornice.

All wooden elements must be treated with fire protection.

The third stage is the installation of the crate and waterproofing. Waterproofing protects the rafters from getting wet and damp and is located under the crate from the eaves to the ridge.

The crate is made of timber 50X50 mm, and boards 30-40 mm thick, 120-150 mm wide. There must be an air gap between the crate and the waterproofing.

The final stage - a roof is sewn onto the crate (ondulin, slate, tiles are laid, etc.). The pediments are closed with corrugated board, board, clapboard or plywood - depending on artistic preferences and finances. Attach such a sheathing to the side of the rafters with wood screws or nails.

DIY roof photo

The modern construction of houses draws a huge amount of money from their owners, and it is not so easy to hire really skilled workers, you can always get on a brigade of "Uzbeks" who will do everything wrong. A do-it-yourself roof of a house is a way out for those who do not forget that we are men and must solve such issues on their own (no one has canceled building a house, planting a tree and giving birth to a son), or, in extreme cases, in the company of best friends who are ready can I help you. Let's figure out how to build the roof of a house with your own hands, and do everything no worse than professional builders.

Roof types.

The first step in making the roof of a house with your own hands is choosing its type. And this is an important step, because the amount of work that will need to be done for its installation depends on the complexity of the roof structure.

Roof types:

Shed - a simple, primitive design, more suitable for household buildings and garages;
Gable - the most popular roof for classic private houses;
Four-pitched (hip) - another classic, but more complex than a gable roof solution for a house;
A sloping roof is an interesting design that looks original from the outside, but requires serious skills and professionalism during its installation;
Combined - a roof containing several types of structures at once.

We discard the shed roof immediately, as an option for a private house - it is not very attractive in appearance, and has serious drawbacks during operation. The only plus of this type of roof is the small amount of time it takes to complete its installation.

A gable roof would be an ideal option for self-build, and a four-slope roof already requires more preparation and skills, but this design is also available for non-professionals. The combined type is more suitable for the attic, where a combination of several types of roofs is needed.

Calculation.

A start has been made, and we will focus on the most common option, a gable type of roof for a private house. The next step will be the calculation of the structure, and here we will take the classic sample as a basis (for each house, calculations must be carried out individually).

So, the classic parameters for a gable roof:

Struts - 100x150 or 50x150 mm, taking into account the convenience of connecting with rafters;
Mauerlat - 150x150 mm;
Runs - 200x200 mm;
Racks - 100x150 or 150x150 mm, depending on the section of the rafters;
Puffs - 50x150 mm on both sides;
Overlays from 32 to 50 mm thick.

Calculations are required for slanting legs and rafter work - for them it is required to select the width and height of the section. Parameters affecting calculations:

span;
Rafter pitch (calculated taking into account the convenience of laying the insulation (about 58 cm for mineral wool));
roofing material;
Snow region.

An accurate calculation is conveniently done using special calculators on the Internet. In the case of working with standard parameters, it is better to do everything with a small margin.

In the case of laying a layer of insulation, its size must be taken into account when calculating the height of the legs, where it should not protrude beyond the load-bearing beams. Plus, it is necessary to take into account the ventilation layer of 2-3 cm. In case of insufficient height of the rafters, you can solve the problem by installing a counter-rail.

Work order.

Do-it-yourself step-by-step production of the roof of a house usually follows the standard scheme:

Measurements of the building frame (may differ from the design dimensions indicated by us);
Preparation of materials and tools. Wood processing with special solutions;
Mauerlat installation;
Installation of a ridge crossbar (only in case of design necessity);
Installation of the roof frame;
We put racks, puffs and struts, thus strengthening the roof;
Waterproofing;
crate;
Correct calculation of ventilation;
Installation of droppers;
Covering installation (roofing).

Mauerlat installation.

High-quality installation of the Mauerlat is the key to the reliability and durability of the future roof. With a wooden roof, an additional Mauerlat is not required, since the upper part of the walls will play its role. Fasteners in this case are carried out by cutting the upper wall trim (attached to the racks of the wall frame using metal corners), and then attaching the roof to it.

When installing a brick (concrete or concrete blocks) roof, it is necessary to erect a Mauerlat of a carefully calculated size. All calculations are carried out according to the expected loads on the supporting structures. Mauerlat is attached to the wall in four possible ways: using studs, wire, anchor bolts or brackets.

The most reliable and durable fastening will be the use of anchor bolts, which must be laid in a concrete belt along the edge of the wall. In the case of mounting the Mauerlat with brackets, they are installed using special wooden bars laid directly into the masonry. Studs and wire are considered not particularly reliable methods of mounting and fastening the Mauerlat, and with modern capabilities and building technologies, they are used in rare cases.

Installation of rafters (fastening to the Mauerlat).

If this is a wooden roof frame with wooden rafters, then they need to be mounted using special sliding elements that will allow the roof of the house to deform slightly over the years without violating the integrity of the structure.

But in houses made of bricks, rigid fastening of the rafters should be made. The scheme used can be either hanging or layered. The design itself can be done in two ways:

Without tie-in;
With inset.

With a notch, the rafters must be pre-cut at the required slope angle. The removal of the roof is done with the help of fillies, the overlap of which is at least one meter. Fixation rigidity is provided with staples, nails or self-tapping screws. It is even better to use special metal corners for fixing the rafters, which are attached to the Mauerlat with self-tapping screws.

Without cutting, the rafters are mounted without the use of fillies, and the overlap is achieved by the beams themselves. This type of installation is simpler than the mortise version, and is ideal for do-it-yourself roof installation. Installation and rigid fixation of the rafters is achieved by the metal corners mentioned above.

Fixing rafters on the wall.

A prerequisite for a reliable roof is to secure its frame to the box of the building, which will prevent the roof from falling off due to wind. The most common and reliable method of fastening is fastening using a twist of two wires. They wrap around the leg, in the place where it rests on the Mauerlat. After that, the wire is attached directly to the wall using a ruff or anchor (preferred option).

In the case of a wooden house, installation and fastening is easy to do with the help of special brackets, which are quite capable of withstanding heavy loads.

Strengthening the roof system.

A reliable way to make a reliable roof frame is to reduce the span between the rafters. In order to do this, it is necessary to install struts and racks. The process is carried out only after a careful plan for their installation, so that they do not interfere with people and look harmonious in the overall interior.

The location of the struts, in a standard roof, is done at an angle of 60 or 45 degrees with respect to the horizontal plane. They are installed on sprengels and beams that are thrown between the walls.

The tightening is performed in order to prevent the divergence of the beams, which is important in the design with hanging beams. Puffs are attached to the sides of the rafters in the amount of two pieces. Installation of puffs is carried out using self-tapping screws or nails.

Crate.

This stage of the construction of the roof of the house with your own hands is the installation of waterproofing material. In this role, a moisture and windproof vapor diffuser membrane can be used, which is much more reliable than a classic film.

After that, the crate is already attached directly, the thickness of which depends on the selected roofing material. For bitumen tiles, a solid crate of boards with a thickness of 25-32 mm is suitable, for a metal roof - a sparse placement of boards with a thickness of 32 to 40 mm.

Roof ventilation.

Ventilation is designed to prevent fungal processes, the appearance of pelesin and the destruction of the roof structure. Ventilation is considered in the process of drawing up a plan for the roof structure.

Ventilation Factors:

Air movement under the roof (the gap between the roofing material and the insulation should be 2-3 cm);
Air outlet in the ridge area (special point aerators are installed);
Air intake through the eaves (the eaves are filed using perforated spotlights or a sparse board).

Roofing and insulation.

The choice of material for the roof is an exclusively personal decision of everyone, and is made from personal preferences or economic considerations. The most modern materials are ondulin and shingles. When choosing bituminous tiles, the angle of inclination of the roof should not exceed 45 degrees.

The final stage of building a roof for a house with your own hands is the installation of insulation. The most common material is classic mineral wool, laid between the rafters. The calculation of the density of insulation is made taking into account the climatic features in which the private house is located.

We hope our tips will help you build a roof for your house with your own hands.

Many owners of suburban areas prefer to build a house on their own. The final stage of the construction of the building is the erection of the roof. With certain skills, you can reduce labor costs for employees and do the work yourself. Many do not know how to make a roof - in such cases it is better to take the help of skilled workers.

Types of erected roofs

First of all, you need to determine the type of roof, prepare the necessary tools and materials. Roofing is one of the most important steps in building a house.

To make a roof, you will need to choose its type correctly. The simplest structures that you can make yourself include gable roofs with straight frames.

Overlapping the roof with one slope will save the material. If you make such a roof frame with your own hands, the laboriousness of the work will be less, and the installation speed, on the contrary, will be higher. But this method has several drawbacks. The first of them is not the most attractive: there is no way to equip an attic or attic. In this case, the space under the roof is too low.

Very often, a gable roof of a private house is mounted with their own hands. It is easy to make and allows you to get more space. Compared to the four slopes, it has less complexity and weight. Also in this case, less material is required. The roof of the house differs significantly from other types. In this case, you need to make triangular gables at the ends of the building.

Before you build a roof with your own hands with four beams, you will have to seriously prepare. This design has more elements compared to previous roofs. Besides, in the attic no option to make full windows, since the design is devoid of gables. Do-it-yourself roof installation in this case involves the installation of attic windows and skylights. They are designed for lighting and evacuation.

An excellent option would be a combined design. It can combine features of all these types. Another option for an attic is to build a roof with broken slopes. In this case, the lower part of the roof has a greater slope than the upper. This assembly allows you to raise the ceiling in the room and make the house more comfortable.

Materials for work

The modern construction industry offers a huge number of traditional and innovative roofing materials. To understand all their diversity, you need to consider in detail the main types of parameters. However, first you should understand what principles are used when choosing certain roofing materials. The choice of material depends on many factors:

The modern market is full of various roofing materials. They must not only be strong enough. A prerequisite is the ability to withstand various negative atmospheric factors.

The construction of the roof of a private house requires the preparation of tools and materials.

In particular, you will need:

Construction methodology

Consider how to properly make a roof. To determine the configuration and size of the roof, it is necessary to take into account the snow and wind load in the existing climatic conditions- the smaller the angle, the better the design withstands loads. But a small angle (40 degrees or less) does not allow full use of the attic space.

The shape and structure of the roof are designed in accordance with the project plan: the key supports of the roof system must coincide with the lines and points of the supporting structures of the lower floor. Thus, it is necessary to take into account the width of the house, the presence of a longitudinal load-bearing wall in the center. If the attic is not going to be used as a usable living area, you can build a secure roof with multilayer rafters. In this case, the rafters are attached to a track that supports the posts resting on the inner support wall.

If it is decided that the gable roof will be installed by yourself, you must carefully read the step-by-step instructions. The functional parameters of the roof also depend on the correct insulation, characteristics and quality of the installation of the topcoat.

Independent Mauerlat device

Before you build the roof of the house securely, you need to take care of fastening the Mauerlat - the wooden dressing of the house, which serves as the boundary of the transition from the stone to the wooden part.

Block it in the following ways:

The bay strengthens the belt around the perimeter and fixes the studs in it. The step of the hairpin should be from 1 to 1.5 meters.
Then the studs are fixed in the last rows of masonry at home.

Cutting and installation of rafters

The rafters are the hardest part of the job. It is important not only to mount the legs of the rafters, but also to cut them correctly. In the event of a skew, the entire roof will “walk”, which is bad for the house.

Now it is necessary to cut off the upper edge of the board so that the system of rafters of two parallel legs can be connected with cutting edges without voids and gaps. To do this, you need to lift the board up, lean against the Mauerlat and raise it to the desired angle. In the center, overlapping to the rafter floor, you need to draw a line. This will be the board cut line. That is, in the upper part of the rafter we get an inclined cut. All rafters, cut with a pattern, are assembled securely at the top with staples, ties and bolts.

Roof gable device

The pediment is a continuation of the wall bounded by the slopes of the roof. If there is a gable roof, then the gables of the house are triangular. When installing the structure, the first parts are first installed, which subsequently serve as a frame for the gables. It is necessary to strictly check the verticality of the structure and make sure that they have the same height. A mountain range is attached to the upper part of the gables, on which the rest of the truss structures are later mounted.

Usually, gables are sewn up after roofing, but this can be done at an earlier stage. Boards 50 x 100 or 50 x 150 mm are mounted in a vertical or horizontal direction. The pediment, which can be built by hand, is often provided with windows. Gables need to be insulated.

Installation of the frame and roofing pie

In continuation of the topic, it is worth noting that the next step will be the installation of the frame and the building roofing pie. Once the system is ready, the frame needs to be laid, which will form the basis for the other materials of the pie - steam and waterproofing, as well as other insulation and roofing materials.

Roofing can be installed from unedged boards 100x50 mm. In this case, the spacing of the boards depends on the final roofing material. The heavier, the smaller the rack step should be. Usually it is 30 cm.

Important: under the frame, it is desirable to lay down a layer of vapor barrier. It will protect the insulation from evaporation from the house. Boards have already been installed on top of the barrier.

Now, perpendicular to the tree, you need to lay the beam in steps equal to the width of the plates or rolls of insulating material. Insulation is placed between them, neatly into the existing grooves.

From above, everything is covered with a layer of waterproofing and fixed with another perpendicular frame (in this case, horizontal). And already the last roofing material is being installed on it.

At the very end of the installation of the roof in the house, it is necessary to install a drainage system. It is made of cut plastic pipes, they are bought in advance. Now it remains to sew up the roof with the selected material.

Do-it-yourself roof covering

The plank is stuffed onto the truss system, the pitch of which is calculated based on the characteristics of the roofing material - its size and rigidity, installation method. If the use of flexible materials (tiles, rolled bitumen) is required, it is necessary to make an even frame.

Roof tiling work is carried out in the following order:

Overlap must be reinforced in each wave. When covering the roof with metal tiles, special attention should be paid to the reliability of fastening the sheets and the accuracy of their connection.

When installing the roof, everything must be done as carefully as possible, otherwise heat losses will be very significant. Usually, a gable roof is immediately made, taking into account the use of various materials. This allows you to build a roof with minimal economic costs. In addition, this approach speeds up and simplifies the installation of thermal insulation and vapor barrier systems. The construction of a gable roof is recommended to be carried out in stages with assistants. Compliance with the technology of work allows us to build a reliable, durable structure.