How to insulate the floor on the first floor? Various ways to insulate the floor in the apartment. Technology of insulation of concrete floors on the ground floor Concrete insulated screed

Insulation of the concrete floor is very important to create comfort and warmth in the house, especially if the apartment is located on the ground floor.

But wooden floors sometimes also require insulation.

For example, in a private house, no matter how well the coating is made, it does not give a full guarantee of heat preservation, which means that it will not be possible to save on heating.

The systemic heat exchange of a house or apartment largely depends on the floors, since they are the place of great heat loss.

Concrete is durable and has excellent performance, it is popular for flooring, but it has one serious drawback - the material is very cold. If it is arranged in a residential area, then high-quality thermal insulation is required, otherwise any heating will not be effective.

A cold floor means uncomfortable conditions in the room, significant energy overruns for heating.

In addition, in the absence of insulation and in the apartment on the first floor, located, as a rule, above an unheated basement, dampness may form, and as a result, mold on the walls.

All this can be avoided with a high-quality insulating structure.

Floor insulation work is not impossible. With the necessary materials and tools, any owner can handle it on their own.

Which heater is better to choose?

There are several types of insulation, produced in the form of blocks, bulk materials, rolls, and even in liquid form. Each of them is quite suitable for warming the cold floor of the first floor.

Mats and slabs

Insulators of this type have low thermal conductivity and low weight, they are the best suited for insulating the concrete floor of the first floor.

They can be used in conjunction with thin roll materials, which increases the overall thermal insulation.

Heaters in the form of mats and plates are made of foam, mineral wool, basalt fiber, based on expanded polystyrene and other composite materials.

Since ancient times, mats made from plant fibers, such as straw, which is an excellent environmentally friendly insulation, have been used to insulate floors in private homes. The only negative is that organic matter decomposes over time.

Loose insulation

Bulk materials include sawdust, foam chips, slag and others.

They are used for floor insulation in apartments on the first floor, as well as in private houses.

The advantage of bulk insulation is that they completely fill the space between the bars of the crate.

This material is suitable both for placement on open ground under the floor in a private house, and in apartments with an unheated basement below.

Roll materials

Expanded polystyrene, mineral wool, cork or cork-based composite mats, multi-layer foil insulation, etc. are produced in the form of rolls.

Some of them have a small thickness, and therefore will not fully cope with the task of retaining heat - they are good to use in addition to thicker heaters.

Rolled mineral wool, 7-10 cm thick, is an excellent thermal insulator, so it is quite suitable for insulation.

Liquid heaters

Cement mortars mixed with foam plastic chips, wood shavings, expanded clay and other light airy materials are used as liquid insulation materials.

The modern version of the liquid insulation is a polymer with a foamed structure - penoizol. To work with it, special equipment is used, with the help of which the cavities between the guides of the crate are filled with material.

How to properly insulate a concrete floor?

When calculating floor insulation, it is necessary to take into account the significant load that all layers of the structure will be subjected to.

For different types of floors, the insulation material is somewhat different from each other, but the insulation system common to all floors consists in laying materials in the following sequence:

The base is a concrete slab.
waterproofing layer.
Wooden crate.
Insulation laid between the guides of the crate
(its sheets overlap by 15-25 cm and are glued with special adhesive tape).
If the insulation has the thickness of the crate, a counter-rail is nailed to it, which will create a gap between the insulation and the subfloor, allowing ventilation.
Draft floor (thick plywood or board).
Additionally, a thin rolled insulation can be used under the draft floor, which is spread over the crate.

The method of floor insulation is easy to understand by considering the above graphic diagram.

Features of insulation of the concrete floor of the first floor in a private house and apartment

Insulation of concrete floors in a private house and apartment differ in some nuances, but the principle of insulation is basically the same.

If the concrete floors of a private house are insulated, which does not have a basement underneath, then you will have to resort to the use of several materials.

Naturally, it is better to calculate the thickness of the insulation in advance, during the construction of the house, but if the insulation is carried out already in the finished room, it is necessary to prepare the base. The same is done in the apartment:

To do this, the decorative coating is removed and a thorough revision of the concrete slab is carried out for cracks and chips.
The slab is cleaned, and all identified defects are eliminated with a concrete or ready-made repair mortar.
After it hardens, it is advisable to treat the surface with a strengthening impregnation - siling.
Next comes the waterproofing device - this process is important both for the floor of the first floor of the apartment and for a private house.

The waterproofing layer can consist of a polyethylene film, which should be 15-20 cm on the walls, or a special water-repellent deep penetration primer applied to the floors and lower parts of the walls.

If in an apartment the crate (logs) can be laid directly on the waterproofing, then in a private house it is better to raise it by 5-7 cm.

Floors raised above the concrete slab will allow a thicker layer of insulation material to be laid.

To do this, pieces of timber 5x5x15 cm are laid on the waterproofing, under which it is necessary to lay small pieces of roofing material.

Logs are laid on the bars and the entire structure is fixed to the concrete base.
Further, with a layer of 12-15 cm, you can lay loose insulation, for example, expanded clay in dry form or with the addition of liquid cement mortar to it. In the latter case, after filling the space, it is necessary to wait for the layer to harden.
Slabs or a rolled version of mineral wool are laid on top of it, which has low thermal conductivity and is an ideal floor insulation for both a private house and an apartment. In addition to it, you can use foam or liquid insulation - penoizol.
The top layer of insulation should be below the level of the lag by about 5 mm.
Mineral wool is covered on top with a vapor barrier film, which is attached to the logs with staples.
The last stage of insulation is the installation of a subfloor, which may consist of boards or thick plywood - this will depend on which finish is chosen.

It is worth noting that if it is assumed, then the rough coating can consist of two layers: boards and plywood.

How best to insulate the wooden floor of the first floor

Wooden floors in modern high-rise buildings are no longer satisfactory, but they are often found in old buildings and in the private sector.

Wood itself is a warm material, but it tends to dry out over time, as a result of which cracks form in the floors, through which drafts penetrate into an apartment or house.

Such floors require insulation work:

To do this, it is necessary to lift the existing old coating. If it is in good condition, after the insulation process it can be installed back.
After removing the boards, the logs are inspected and, if necessary, replaced with new ones. Then they are treated with antiseptic antifungal agents and given time to dry.
Insulation is laid or poured on the base of the floor.
If the logs are high enough, you can arrange two layers of insulation, the lower of which will be bulk, and the upper one will be made of foam or mineral wool slabs.
The next step is to cover the insulation with a vapor barrier film, and the floorboard is laid on top.

When building a house, it is better to insulate wooden floors immediately, observing all technological rules. The diagram clearly shows the layers of an insulated wooden floor, going in the following sequence:

The foundation of the house.
Floor beams (logs).
Beam for subfloor.
Vapor barrier.
Draft floor.
Insulation.
On top of it is a waterproofing film.
Batten.

Basement insulation

If the apartment is located above the basement, it is possible to insulate the floor from its side.

On the ceiling of the basement under the apartment, you can strengthen the insulation.

For this procedure, foam, foam flex or mineral wool is suitable.

Styrofoam is glued to the basement ceiling using special glue. After it dries, all the gaps between the plates are sealed with mounting foam.

With the help of mineral wool, you can also insulate the floors from the basement, but this will be more difficult and expensive.

Bars are fixed to the ceiling at a distance of the width of the mineral wool, minus 5 cm. This is necessary so that the insulation mats fit tightly between them.
In order for the insulation to hold securely, fiberboard or thin plywood is strengthened on top of it on the logs. Along the edge of the structure, along the walls, all the gaps formed are sealed with mounting foam.

In order for the insulation work to be effective, you need to know a few nuances on which the desired result will depend.

The first thing to do when starting floor insulation in an apartment on the ground floor is to examine the walls of the basement.

If cracks, chips, and possibly even holes are found on them, they must be repaired with cement-based mortars, mounting foam, or, if necessary, apply brickwork.

Basement vents can be covered for the winter, but they cannot be completely sealed.

If insulation is being done in a private house, under which there is a basement, the floor should be additionally insulated from the outside, i.e. fix the insulation on the ceiling of the basement.
You need to know that low-density foam has high thermal insulation properties, due to its porous air structure.
We must not forget about the installation of a vapor barrier, which must be installed correctly, and be sure to glue the joints with special adhesive tape.
It is impossible to close the holes completely ventilating the subfloor, otherwise condensation may form under the floor covering or on the insulation itself.

In order not to make any mistakes, before starting work, you need to study its technology, calculate all the necessary parameters in accordance with the chosen method of thermal insulation and the type of insulation material.

If your apartment is located on the ground floor, there is no need to postpone work on floor insulation. Sooner or later, cold and dampness will settle in the room, and along with them, fungus and mold will appear on the walls of the premises, and it will be very difficult to get rid of them.

The cold floor is the weak point of all apartments located on the first floors. Residents of these premises every day are forced to face not only the cold coming from below, but also the spread of dampness, mold and fungus. The question of how to insulate the floor on the ground floor is relevant both for apartment owners in multi-storey buildings and for residents of private houses, under the first floor of which there is an unheated basement. Work on warming the floor structure helps to solve the problem of cold and constant dampness: if this is done with the highest quality, the temperature in the rooms during the winter period will be comfortable, and the mold will disappear forever.

Concrete floor insulation work

Cold penetrates into the apartments of the lower floors of high-rise buildings due to the location of the room above the basement, as well as due to the poor thermal insulation characteristics of the floor slabs themselves. Warming of the concrete floor of the first floor is carried out using a cement-sand screed and heaters, which are characterized by a high density of the material.

What is the order in which the flooring works are carried out? The old coating is dismantled and removed, the remaining base is leveled and covered with sand or expanded clay. This backfill is used for three purposes at once: it not only makes the surface even, but also partially plays the role of thermal insulation, and also raises the level of future flooring. Many experts advise using a bulk pillow when insulating floors on the ground floor, since it eliminates deformation of the heat-insulating layer layer under heavy loads.

A damper tape must be glued along the perimeter of the floor of the first floor. If there is no adhesive layer on the tape, then it can be attached to the walls with self-tapping screws. The tape is needed for two purposes. It serves as an additional way to heat and, and also protects the walls of the room from the expansion of the cement screed, which will be poured from above.

On top of the expanded clay backfill, a layer of waterproofing is spread on the working surface - a dense polyethylene film, its joints are firmly fastened with construction tape. Then you can proceed to the installation of insulation. It is best to lay polystyrene foam on the ceiling of the cold floor of the first floor, since its high density provides the best thermal insulation qualities. As a replacement for expanded polystyrene, you can consider options with floor insulation with mineral wool or polystyrene foam.

The material for the heat-insulating layer must be chosen carefully, the desire to save money can lead to the fact that all repairs will not provide a good result, and the temperature in the apartment during the cold periods of the year will remain uncomfortable.

Styrofoam boards.

Expanded polystyrene tiles should be placed tightly on the surface, it is not necessary to fasten them to the ceiling. When the installation of the heat-insulating layer is completed, the insulation of the floor of the first floor proceeds to the next stage of work: preparations for pouring the screed begin. In order for a decorative floor covering to be laid on the surface of the screed without any problems, it must turn out to be very even. for these purposes, before pouring the cement mortar, experts advise installing beacon profiles.

This is how the profiles for the future pouring of the screed look like.

Profiles must be set strictly according to the level and fixed. For fixing, you can use both self-tapping screws and the cement mortar itself. When mixing cement mortar, fiber and plasticizer can be added to it. These special additives are of great importance for increasing the strength of the future concrete screed. The finished solution is poured onto the work surface in the direction from the walls to the door and leveled with the rule. After the screed has completely dried, you can lay the selected floor covering on it. On this, the insulation of the concrete floor of the first floor can be considered complete.

Concrete or cement-sand mortar can be replaced with a dry screed. Dry mixes fit quickly and quite simply. The drying of the cement screed lasts about four weeks, if you do not have such a long period of time, then a dry screed remains the only possible option. It is not required to wait for it to dry, it is almost immediately ready for installation of the top layer of the floor.

Floor insulation in a wooden house

How to insulate a wooden floor? Floors on the ground floor often require thermal insulation work. Cold and damp enter the premises from the cold underground, making it uncomfortable to be in the rooms on the lower floor of the house. To insulate the floor structure, the insulation is placed between the rough and finish coatings.

Before starting work, it is necessary to choose a heater, since the distance between the lags will depend on the type of material. The sequence of work in the arrangement of the floors of the first floor is such that first a lag frame is mounted, and then heat-insulating material is placed between them. So that you have to cut and fit pieces of insulation as little as possible, the step between the lags should be equal to the width of the material.

Experts recommend installing double logs across, as this will greatly raise the floor, and nail the bars under the insulation flooring onto the floor beams. Using this method will save the height of the ceilings, which is most important in small rooms where it is impossible to sacrifice extra centimeters.

After installing the lag, the surface should be covered with a dense plastic film.

It is impossible to neglect the arrangement of the waterproofing layer, since the effect of all other works in its absence will be minimal. If the thermal insulation layer is exposed to moisture and gets wet, then almost all of its characteristics that ensure heat retention will be lost.

After the bars on the logs and the thermal insulation are installed, the first level of the raised floor is attached to them using self-tapping screws. It can be made both from boards or plywood, and from OSB sheets. If you are making a warm floor in an apartment on the ground floor, then you do not need to install an additional rough coating; a concrete floor slab will serve as the basis for the entire structure.

Insulation of the floor of the first floor can be done using polystyrene foam, polystyrene foam or mineral wool. The material should be laid between the lags in a checkerboard pattern tightly to each other. Most often, for the purposes of insulation, mineral wool is used, which is produced in rolls or tiles. As a replacement for the listed heat-insulating materials, an embankment of expanded clay or sawdust can be considered. They can also be used as thermal insulation, but in exceptional cases, since the falling asleep of expanded clay and sawdust is accompanied by a large amount of dust. Backfill made of expanded clay or sawdust is afraid of moisture and loses its properties when wet.

Mineral wool.

On top of the laid insulation, another layer of waterproofing is laid, which can be firmly attached using a construction stapler. If the waterproofing material cannot be laid with a single sheet, then at the joints, parts of the polyethylene are overlapped at least 10 cm wide. Then it is necessary to fill small bars on the logs in order to leave a gap between the insulation and the board finish to ensure ventilation of the entire floor structure.

After thermal insulation work, the floors of the first floor can be sheathed with any material you like. The flooring can be made of both floorboards and plywood or chipboard. When installing a finishing coating, it is necessary to remember about the gaps near the walls: a space of 1.5 - 2 cm wide should be left between the flooring and the wall of the room.

One of the alternative options for warming wooden floors is the use of penoizol, which many call liquid foam. Insulation of the floor of the first floor when using penoizol differs in that it does not require removal of the casing. This saves you a lot of time for repairs. The cost of the floor insulation method using penoizol depends on how much material you need to fill the space between the lags.

The sequence of work is quite simple. Holes are drilled in several places in the wooden floor, or you can simply remove one or two boards from the flooring. Penoizol is supplied under pressure through these holes into the structure. The material fills the entire space between the lags, no matter what form it needs to take.

The advantage of this method of warming the floors of the first floor is not only the simplicity of its implementation, but also the protection of the entire floor. Penoizol in the process of polymerization increases in volume and exits through the slots of the boardwalk. As a result, it fills absolutely all voids and cracks that can contribute to heat loss.

When choosing a material for thermal insulation of the floor, one should be guided by financial possibilities and adhere to a rational approach. If you have enough time to dismantle the old floor and lay a new flooring from the boards, then you can choose mineral wool or expanded polystyrene as a heater. Both materials can be mounted with your own hands, without using the services of specialists.

The use of rolled mineral wool is one of the most common ways to insulate the floor, which is used by many. Thermal insulation of the floor in the premises of the first floor with the help of expanded clay is undesirable, since the result of the work carried out will not be highly effective. If there is no opportunity to spend a serious amount of money on the purchase of thermal insulation material, then you should pay attention to insulation with foam. Using penoizol requires serious costs, but it will save you time.

How to insulate the floor on the ground?

In some private houses, the floor is mounted directly on the ground, therefore it also requires serious insulation. Thermal insulation of such structures should be considered at the stage of building a house.

When building a house, the top layer of soil is removed and removed, crushed stone and sand are poured in its place. Each layer is poured to a height of about 10 cm and well compacted. Insulation of the floor of the first floor in this case can be carried out on sand or on a concrete screed. In the first method, the heat-insulating material is laid directly on the compacted sand, in the second, a concrete slab up to 12 cm thick is first poured.

As a heater, it is best to use expanded polystyrene, which is not afraid of moisture. The perimeter of the room is treated with a damper tape, and waterproofing is laid on the insulation in the form of a polyethylene film or a vapor barrier membrane. Then, a cement screed with a reinforcing mesh is poured over this entire structure. After the solution has dried, the floors of the first floor can be covered with a decorative coating.

In the summer, you do not feel a warm floor or cold. You start thinking about insulation only with the onset of the first cold weather, when the temperature in the house or apartment seems to be comfortable, and it blows on the floor. What you are doing? Put on warm socks. And you need to insulate. Insulation of the concrete cold floor of the first floor implies that there is another room under it, a basement.

If your house is just being built, then you should immediately think about floor insulation. And if you already live in the house, then you will have to do some of the work to dismantle the old floor.

Which heater to choose

There are whole technologies for carrying out such work. And they all depend on the materials that you will use. Therefore, first of all, you need to choose the material with which you will insulate. All of them have their advantages and disadvantages, some are more expensive, some are cheaper. But these technologies are tested and quite reliable. And only you can decide how to insulate your floor.

Floor heaters can be divided into groups:

Mineral or stone wool.
Expanded polystyrene materials - polystyrene, polystyrene, extruded polystyrene foam (EPS).
Polyurethane foam.
Bulk materials - expanded clay and perlite (of volcanic origin).
Chipboards, however, they have the highest thermal conductivity of all the proposed materials.

Your choice of insulation

All these materials are characterized by a low degree of thermal conductivity, good sound insulation, they are light and have a long service life.

The choice of vapor barrier and waterproofing

Also, when insulating floors, you will need to choose a material for vapor barrier and waterproofing. It can be just a roofing material, a plastic film or various membranes - materials, on the one hand, allowing moisture to pass through, and on the other, not. They often have a metallized coating that enhances the effect of thermal insulation. But the only drawback of membranes is their high price on the market, and these are very high-quality modern materials that have been used for a long time in Europe and America.

The presence of an insulating layer is required

Warming can be done directly on a concrete base or using a log. When choosing one or another method, you must be guided by the selected insulation. Bulk materials or various cotton wool are used along the lags. This method involves reducing the load on the insulation.

Basalt slabs or XPS are placed directly on concrete.

Use of lag

Using this method, you should be prepared that your distance to the ceiling will decrease. Since the cake will be assembled, 10 centimeters high or more. The height will depend on the height of the insulation. Most likely, if we are talking about a private house, and not an apartment, you will have to put the material in two layers. Laying will take place in a clear pattern. The concrete base must be dry.

Clean the surface of the base from large and small debris.

Lay the first waterproofing layer, designed to protect your insulation from moisture from below.

Exhibit lags

Install logs from a wooden beam, better treated with an antiseptic. Then the tree will not be threatened with mold. The step between the lags is selected depending on the width of the insulation. This parameter is approximately known. Plates are produced with a side of 60 centimeters. And for bulk materials, a step of 50 centimeters. At this stage of work, you need to level the floor. You must level the wooden logs. Find the highest point of the floor and level the entire floor along it. Place pieces of boards under low areas.

Lay insulation

Between the lags tightly lay the heat-insulating material. If you are insulating the cold floor of the first floor with expanded clay, then this material must be poured a layer of 30 centimeters. Only then will these works be of high quality. And, in general, expanded clay begins to reveal its thermal insulation properties only from a thickness of 15 centimeters. That is, when insulating with expanded clay, calculate the thickness of the installation.

floor base

The next step is laying moisture-resistant plywood or chipboard. In order for plywood or boards not to deform during temperature changes, an indent from the wall of 1.5-2 mm is required.

Coverage can be any

Finally, you can make any floor covering.

"floating floor"

The method involves warming the cold floor of the first floor with foam, that is, extruded polystyrene foam.

With this method, you need to level the floors immediately. To do this, we make a screed according to the level.
We lay the waterproofing with an overlap and glue it with tape.
The next layer of EPS. Plates thanks to the grooves are tightly fitted to each other. The laying method is a checkerboard pattern. The joints of the plates of each row, as well as the rows of the second layer, should not coincide. This is done to eliminate cold bridges.
We attach a damper tape to the wall between the insulating layer - protection against deformation.
Lay a vapor barrier layer on top.
A reinforcing mesh is applied to protect the insulation.
The floor is filled with concrete screed. This screed will take a long time to dry. All this time it is moisturized. The main thing is not to let it crack.
Lastly, lay the flooring.

Using penoplex (EPPS) or isover (mineral wool insulation), you can insulate the cold floor of the second floor. At the same time, you will also get an excellent soundproofing system. All methods of warming will be similar.

An additional function of insulation will be taken over by the substrate materials for flooring, laminate or linoleum.

Do-it-yourself cold basement insulation

A similar scheme will work if you are insulating the basement. But here, ensuring good ventilation of the basement comes to the fore. Air vents must be provided around the entire perimeter. These are holes with a rib side of 10 centimeters. You need to make them with your own hands every 4-5 meters. You will cover such products for the winter. Part of the foundation of the basement, which is not insulated, must be covered with insulation from the outside. For example, stick foam plastic on the foundation of the basement, and so that rodents do not eat it, put a metal reinforcing mesh on top. Then plaster. But, of course, it is good to insulate the floor, this was discussed above.

After the work done, your home can withstand any severe frost.

Insulation of the floor of the first floor worries many owners of private houses, because the room can lose a significant amount of heat through the floor. To minimize heat loss, and at the same time reduce the cost of heating the house, it is necessary to perform high-quality and proper surface insulation.

There are several ways to implement this task. At the same time, different heaters can be used to create a reliable heat-insulating layer. Familiarize yourself with the features of the most popular materials, choose the most suitable method and proceed with the installation of thermal insulation.

Popular thermal insulation materials and their features

A large selection of materials is presented on the modern construction market, the characteristics and properties of which make it possible to use them for warming the floor of the first floor. Each insulator has both a number of advantages and a certain list of weak qualities.

Mineral wool

Those. characteristics of mineral wool	Indicators
Density	115 kg/m3
Water absorption at full immersion, no more	1%
Average fiber diameter, no more	0.2 µm
The content of non-fibrous inclusions in the mass, no more	4,5%
Thermal conductivity at 283+1 K, no more	0.044 W/m*K
Shear strength, not less than	50 kPa
Ultimate compressive strength, not less than	100 kPa
Tensile strength, not less than	150 kPa

The most popular material for warming various structures is mineral wool. Among its main advantages are:

The main disadvantage is the weak resistance to moisture, against which it becomes necessary to equip a high-quality waterproofing layer, otherwise the insulation will collapse very quickly.

Mineral wool is produced in the form of slabs and mats, which makes it possible to choose the most convenient option for a particular situation.

Find out more in our new article.

Styrofoam

No less popular heat-insulating material. Advantages:

low thermal conductivity;
small thickness and relatively low weight;
strength;
durability;
resistance to mechanical damage.

Unlike mineral wool, polystyrene foam does not require such a serious moisture protection device.

If you have enough budget, you can even buy polyethylene foam. During the production of this material, its surface is covered with aluminum foil, eliminating the need for additional waterproofing.

It is a cellulose-based insulation with a variety of additives that improve its fire-resistant and environmentally friendly characteristics. The structure is a loose material. Ecowool is very easy to arrange - just pour it into a pre-assembled crate and cover it with a flooring.

A significant disadvantage of ecowool is its low resistance to moisture. Under its influence, the material very quickly loses its performance properties and collapses.

This heater is rapidly gaining popularity. The main performance characteristics of fiberglass are beyond praise. The material is great for warming the floors of rooms located on the ground floor. Also among the advantages of fiberglass should include an affordable price.

The choice of the method of arranging the heat-insulating layer

Before embarking on thermal insulation measures, it is necessary to study not only the properties of the most popular heaters, but also familiarize yourself with the features of their arrangement. Depending on the structure, materials are classified into:

loose;
solid. This category includes roll insulation, as well as heat-insulating materials in the form of mats and plates;
liquid.

It is carried out using the already mentioned ecowool, as well as the following materials:

slag;
shredded foam;
sawdust.

Bulk materials are convenient in that they can be used to insulate even the most inaccessible places. The method is equally effective both in private houses and in apartments on the ground floor.

However, despite its effectiveness, bulk thermal insulation has not become widespread, because more modern and easier-to-install heaters are available on the market.

Solid thermal insulation

Rolls, slabs and mats are most commonly used for insulation. Such materials have a relatively small thickness - an average of up to 100 mm, so the living space when using them is not significantly reduced.

Typical representatives of the category are mineral wool and polystyrene. Also, mats made from plant fibers of natural origin are gaining wide popularity.

Liquid thermal insulation

Not very common, but very effective method. The following materials are used:

In terms of quality, this is in no way inferior to plates, mats and rolled materials. However, for spraying the compositions, one has to use special equipment, which does not have the best effect on the cost of work.

Prices for thermal insulation materials

Thermal insulation materials

Floor insulation options and instructions for their implementation

The procedure for insulating the floor of the first floor will vary depending on whether there is a basement or basement below.

If there is a cellar

If there is a thermal insulation work in the house or basement, it is necessary to start with them. First, you must insulate the walls and ceiling of the basement. Secondly, before warming the surfaces must be qualitatively waterproofed. Otherwise, groundwater will seep through the walls and destroy the insulation.

If you do not want to disassemble the floor, or if you intend to create the highest quality thermal insulation, use the method, the essence of which is to insulate the basement ceiling.

First step. Lay out and fix the moisture-proof film. Lay strips of film with a 10-15 cm overlap. Be sure to seal the joints with tape.

Second step. Pin to the waterproofed surface of the lath of the crate. Select the width of the rails and the step of their placement in accordance with the parameters of the insulation used.

Third step. Lay slab or roll insulation in the space between the slats. To fix the thermal insulation, use a wire or fill the cross rails.

Fourth step. Nail the flooring elements (boards or OSB) to the slats.

After insulating the basement, you can proceed directly to the insulation of the floor.

First step. Lay and attach cranial bars to them.

Lay wooden boards or OSB on the fixed bars. The flooring should be such that there are no even minor gaps at the joints of the elements.

Second step. Cover the flooring with waterproofing film.

Third step. Lay the selected insulation on top of the film. Nail the support joists to the base.

Fourth step. Make another flooring from OSB or boards. The gap between the flooring and the insulation should be about 10 mm.

If there is no basement

In the absence of a basement or basement, work on floor insulation will be easier and faster. If there are no premises mentioned, then the floor, as a rule, is located directly on the ground or on the foundation.

In such a situation, the sequence of warming will be as follows.

First step. Remove the flooring, if present, to gain access to the foundation or ground. If the floor is made on the ground, carefully level the ground.

Second step. Spread on the base in a 10-15 cm layer. This backfill will provide additional thermal insulation.

Third step. We lay the reinforcing layer. The necessary rigidity will be provided by an ordinary chain-link mesh. Lay it on the base.

Fourth step. Make a new tie.

Fifth step. Cover the hardened screed with a moisture-proof film.

Sixth step. Nail the battens to the base of the lath.

Seventh step. Lay the selected thermal insulation material in the space between the battens.

Eighth step. Mount deck boards and finish as you wish.

Insulation option using floor heating system

This technique is not insulation in the truest sense of the word, but it allows you to make the room much warmer. The system can be (film, cable) and water.

The easiest to arrange is a film infrared warm floor. To install it, it is enough to simply level the base, spread the film in the necessary places and connect the system to electricity. The screed is not filled. The key advantages of such a system are the possibility of laying it under any topcoat and ease of installation. The disadvantage is the relatively high cost.

It is also relatively easy to install and can be combined with most existing floor finishes. You don't need to do a stitch. The main disadvantage is the high cost of operation.

The most popular is this system is the most economical. It requires preliminary arrangement of waterproofing of the base, laying of special mats (it is best to use plates with so-called bosses, since in this case you do not have to use additional fasteners) and subsequent pouring of the screed.

Thus, a wide variety of materials and techniques can be used to insulate the floor of the first floor. Now you are aware of the features of each available option and can make the best choice.

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How to insulate the floor on the first floor - 5 proven ways

The folk wisdom that has been proven for centuries, which says that you need to keep your head cold and your feet warm, is relevant for owners of housing on the ground floor like no other. These people know firsthand what the consequences can be if the floor is not insulated in time. The indestructible smell of dampness, constant colds in children and general discomfort in the house are just some of these problems. In this article, I decided to dwell on how to properly insulate the floors on the ground floor in a city apartment and in a private house.

Suitable types of insulation

Insulation for the floors of the first floor, in principle, you can use any. Here you need to look at your financial capabilities, professional skills and, of course, on what basis the material is chosen for. It is one thing to insulate the floor of the first floor in a wooden house, and quite another, the arrangement of a concrete slab in a city apartment. I selected the most popular materials and combined them into a table.

Type of insulation	Advantages	Flaws
Slabs of mineral wool (slag wool, basalt wool)	Low thermal conductivity; Easy installation; Affordable price; High density with good elasticity; Absolute fire safety; Environmentally neutral.	High hygroscopicity; The need to install the crate.
Styrofoam slabs	Low thermal conductivity; Easy installation; Low price; Light weight; Possibility of use in a humid environment; Environmentally neutral.	Styrofoam is afraid of rodents; In case of fire it emits caustic and rather harmful gases.
Plates of extruded polystyrene foam (Penoplex)	Low thermal conductivity; Easy installation; Ability to withstand high mechanical loads; Light weight; The material is an absolute waterproofing agent; Environmentally neutral.	High price. Penoplex is 2-3 times more expensive than foam plastic; It burns when exposed to an open flame and emits corrosive gases.
Expanded clay (bulk material, is a porous granules of baked clay)	Absolute ecological cleanliness; Low price; Absolute fire safety (baked clay does not burn); Low thermal conductivity.	Expanded clay is able to absorb moisture; The weight of expanded clay, although not much, is higher than that of plate heaters.
A mortar of sawdust mixed with cement	Ecological cleanliness; scanty cost; The material is considered fireproof with proper proportions.	Afraid of high humidity; Thermal conductivity is much higher than that of modern plate heaters; Relatively large weight.
Liquid heaters. (Polyurethane foam and penoizol)	Environmental neutrality; Light weight; Not afraid of moisture; Low thermal conductivity.	High price; Liquid heaters cannot be applied by hand, they require the involvement of third-party specialists.

Subtleties of installation of insulation

Since the wooden and concrete bases are quite different in their characteristics, accordingly, the methods of their arrangement will be different. Further, in order not to dump everything in one "heap", each instruction will be considered separately.

Method number 1. Floor insulation from below

The concrete floor of the first floor in multi-apartment city buildings from below, in the vast majority of cases, borders on an unheated, and often even a wet basement. Therefore, I am convinced that it is necessary to start work with insulation in the basement. Thus, you will completely cut off the access of moisture and at least half make your floor warmer.

It is not worth spending money on some sky-high expensive materials here, ordinary polystyrene is quite enough. The thickness of the insulation in this case starts from 50 mm. As far as I have seen, the ceilings in the basements are not covered with anything, this is an ordinary reinforced concrete slab. Therefore, the first thing to do is to blow out all the cracks around the perimeter of the ceiling and on the ceiling itself, especially between the floor slabs, with mounting foam;
The concrete slab itself is smooth, naturally the adhesion of such a coating is rather low. To increase it, we will need to walk along the ceiling with deep penetration soil;
Then everything is simple. We take foam boards and glue them to the ceiling. As an adhesive, you can use the same mounting foam, Liquid Nails construction adhesive or Ceresit CT83 dry mortar. Personally, I prefer Ceresit. After the glue has finally set, the remaining small gaps between the plates will need to be blown out again with mounting foam.

If you glue on mounting foam, then take into account the fact that it expands greatly, so every 15 to 20 minutes the plates will need to be pressed against the ceiling. Typically, the extension lasts about an hour and a half.

Some craftsmen prefer to mount the foam on the ceiling in the basement in 2 layers, with a shift relative to each other. Explaining this by the fact that a denser monolith is obtained, without gaps. I think it's redundant. More precisely, in the case when the facade insulation of the house is mounted, this measure is justified, and in the basement it is an extra waste of material, time and effort.

For an ordinary dry basement, this will be enough. But if there is water in the basement, then I recommend making additional waterproofing of the ceiling. This procedure is also inexpensive.

You will need to take Liquid Nails or some similar glue, apply it with a spatula to the foam and paste over the ceiling with technical polyethylene. So that the polyethylene does not fall off before the glue sets, it can be shot in places with a stapler to the foam.

The opinions of experts about whether it is necessary to install the so-called external insulation of the underground in wooden houses differ. Personally, I don't think it will get any worse than this. So you not only insulate the basement from below, but also protect the wood from moisture.

You need to act according to the technology described above. Only here it makes sense to fix the foam in addition to glue on the draft layer of the subfloor with plastic dowels-umbrellas. This is due to the fact that the tree is a living material, and when it starts to “walk”, the sheets may peel off.

Method number 2. Installation of insulation with a crate

For a novice master, this method is considered one of the easiest and most understandable. The only problem is that the thickness of such insulation starts from 50 - 70 mm. Therefore, in apartments with low ceilings, this can be a problem.

Work begins with the preparation of the concrete base. The old coating, if there is one, must of course be completely torn off and cleaned well to concrete. After that, all cracks and cracks will need to be caulked. This can be done using putty or the same mounting foam;
On top of any concrete base, you will need to lay a layer of waterproofing. Too powerful protection is not required for an apartment, especially if you have already hemmed the ceiling with foam plastic in the basement. Here it is enough to lay technical polyethylene in one layer. But only polyethylene should be overlapped around the entire perimeter of the walls. From the start, I do an overlap of about 10 - 15 cm, then the excess will be cut off;
The basis of the crate are wooden blocks. Their thickness is selected according to the thickness of the insulation. The bars are usually laid parallel to the short wall of the room with a step of about half a meter. For fixing, anchors or self-tapping screws with “quick installation” dowels are used. I usually fix with an interval of no more than 1m, the support bars will not go anywhere anyway;

Next comes the stage of installation of the insulation itself. If the basement is not insulated from below, then the thickness of the insulation starts from 50 mm. But for mineral wool slabs, the minimum is 100m. Filler from sawdust-cement mortar, expanded clay and other loose insulation should be taken at least 150 mm. Only dense foam, foam plastic and liquid modern heaters (polyurethane foam, penoizol) can be laid with a thickness of 50 mm;
If you approached the matter thoroughly and first insulated the ceiling in the basement, then all these dimensions can be safely divided in half;
Styrofoam or extruded polystyrene foam is selected or cut clearly according to the size of the gap between the support bars. With such a calculation that the plates were butt. Slabs of dense mineral wool should be a couple of centimeters wider than the gap between the bars. They will press down a little on the sides and you will get a solid, dense insulation;

From above, a layer of such insulation can be sewn up with a tongue-and-groove floorboard with a thickness of 30 mm or more. If a top finish is planned, such as laminate, linoleum or parquet, then it is better to use plywood or OSB sheets. Moreover, under the laminate, one layer of sheets with a thickness of 12 - 16 mm is enough, and under linoleum or a package, sheets of 10 - 12 mm will have to be laid, in a double layer with a shift between the layers.

Method number 3. Floor insulation in a wooden house

The insulation of the floor of the first floor in a wooden house is somewhat reminiscent of the option using a wooden crate. In wooden houses, all interfloor ceilings, including those on the first floor, are made two-layer.

The design is based on massive wooden logs. From below, it is hemmed with a layer of subfloor, and from above, of course, there is a finishing coating. As you probably already guessed, in the middle we will have a heater.

When the bottom draft coating is hemmed and all the wood is impregnated with protective compounds, you can proceed with the installation of the waterproofing layer. Unlike the apartment version, waterproofing the subfloor in a wooden house is done more thoroughly. Moreover, it is laid not only on the subfloor, but also wrapped over the log, in a single monolithic layer;
If you have chosen technical polyethylene, then it is covered in 2 layers and fastened with a stapler. Roofing felt or modern rolled waterproofing can be installed in 1 layer, but they sit on bituminous mastic, which in turn is also a good waterproofing agent;

In a wooden house, there is already enough to burn, therefore, in most cases, preference is given to non-combustible material. Dense basalt wool slabs are now considered the most popular. The depth of wooden logs, even in light country houses, is taken at least 150 mm. Accordingly, basalt wool is laid either in one layer of 150 mm, or in two layers of 75 mm, always with a shift between the layers;

Expanded clay is deservedly considered the second no less popular material. This is a popular, budget option. According to the rules, expanded clay should fall asleep a couple of centimeters below the finishing floor, that is, the upper cut of the log. But I always recommend from the start to fill up any loose insulation flush with the lags. In any case, over time it will shrink and you will get the same ventilation gap;

Expanded clay is produced in the three most popular fractions. The sand has a diameter of up to 5 mm, the diameter of the gravel does not exceed 2 cm, everything that goes beyond these limits is called crushed stone. So, in order for the insulation layer to be more dense and monolithic, before backfilling, you need to mix expanded clay gravel or crushed stone with expanded clay sand in a ratio of 1: 1.

As I already indicated in the table, mineral wool and expanded clay are hygroscopic materials. Therefore, from above such a heater in wooden houses will need to be covered with a layer of vapor barrier or simple polyethylene. This is especially true for country houses with seasonal residence. Otherwise, in a periodically heated room, the insulation will quickly become saturated with moisture and lose its properties;
The last stage of the arrangement of insulation, as usual, we are installing the final coating. In capital wooden houses, a tongue-and-groove floorboard is often used. In light country houses, plywood or OSB is mounted, and what is on top is laid.

Method number 4. Warming with extruded polystyrene foam

Extruded polystyrene foam is a special modern material, and its use should be discussed separately. To be honest, I think that as a heater for the floors of the first floor, this material is close to ideal. There are several variations of it, in our great power it is better known under the brand name Penoplex.

The uniqueness of penoplex lies in the fact that, in addition to all other characteristics, it absolutely does not let water through, and most importantly, it has a serious margin of mechanical strength. It is penoplex that now insulates highways and runways of airfields.

I have already mentioned that it can be laid in a crate, although, in my opinion, this is too expensive. In the case of a crate, it is quite possible to get by with dense foam sheets of more than 30 kg / m³. By the way, they are at least 2 times cheaper. There, after all, anyway, the lion's share of the load falls on the support bars.

Penoplex showed itself best in two cases. This is when arranging a laminate and as a heater under a screed. Thanks to the grooves located along the perimeter of each sheet, such flooring is mounted quickly and completely hermetically.

If you already have a basement insulated, then you can safely use sheets of extruded polystyrene foam with a thickness of about 30 mm. Even in a harsh climate, this will be enough. The preparation of the base is the same everywhere. Theoretically, you can not lay a layer of waterproofing under the penoplex, but it will not be a mistake if you play it safe and cover the room with polyethylene.

The sheets of insulation are connected to each other through grooves, and these grooves are additionally glued with any suitable glue, this stuff is now more than enough on the markets;
As you know, the laminate is mounted using a floating technology, that is, it is not rigidly connected to the base. Therefore, further we cover the insulation with a polyethylene foam substrate and already lay our laminate on it.

Penoplex has one weak point, it can easily carry heavy loads only if they are evenly distributed over the entire plane. The material may not withstand point pressure. Laminate, in turn, provides a uniform distribution of this load.

By the way, using a similar technology, you can equip the base for linoleum or piece parquet. A foam layer is also laid there, a thin foam substrate is laid on it, and OSB is mounted instead of a laminate to evenly distribute the load. Sheet thicknesses up to 10 mm are sufficient here.

As I already mentioned, penoplex is perhaps the best option for screed insulation. Moreover, the screed can be either ordinary cement-sand or modern self-leveling.

The technology of arrangement here is also quite simple. After laying the waterproofing and the foam layer, a metal reinforcing mesh is laid on top. Too thick fittings for an ordinary apartment should not be used. I usually take wire with a thickness of 4 to 6 mm;
After all, the thickness of the screed itself often does not exceed 20 mm. This is only on large areas, from 50 to 70 m² in size, the concrete screed is made up to 40 mm thick;
If you are going to use a cement-sand mortar, then you will first need to fix the beacons, and between them already lay the reinforcement. Lighthouses are easiest to fix with a stapler. When everything is ready, the solution is thrown on top and aligned with the beacons by the rule;

A self-leveling screed is generally a “song”, you do not need to have any special talents and skills to install it. There are instructions on the package to prepare the mixture. Then this mixture is poured onto a layer of reinforced foam and slowly helped to level it with a spiked roller.

Important: Penoplex is allowed to be mounted exclusively on a flat floor. Insignificant, smooth differences in height within 3 - 4 mm are allowed.

Method number 5. Warming with a dry screed

The so-called dry screed is used exclusively for warming the concrete base. At a cost price, it comes out cheaper than many of its competitors. Expanded clay mixture (sand - gravel) is taken as the basis there.

The point is to align the loose base as evenly as possible along the horizon. After that, a rigid monolithic flooring is mounted on it, using floating technology. OSB sheets, waterproof GKL or thick, about 10 mm plywood are often used as flooring.

It is quite difficult to ideally level loose expanded clay without skill. Therefore, I recommend that you first mount the support beacons on the floor.

It is not worth biting into durable concrete with self-tapping screws. It is quite enough to plant beacons on alabaster pyramids. After that, you simply fill the room with expanded clay mixture and distribute it according to the rule over the lighthouses.

The sheet flooring is mounted in 2 layers, as usual with a shift between the sheets. Such installation will not be difficult, there you can safely drive through the screws, they will not damage the expanded clay pillow. And note that such flooring is called floating because it is not rigidly attached to anything. The gap between the wall and the flooring is left within 10 mm.

Conclusion

Now you know how to properly insulate the floors on the ground floor. In the photo and video in this article, I placed related information on the topic of floor insulation. If you have any questions, write them in the comments, I will try to help.

September 6, 2016

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