Do-it-yourself roof: step-by-step instructions for installing various types of roofs. Do-it-yourself gable roof of a house

Reading time ≈ 10 minutes

The most common option in the construction of private houses is a gable roof, assembled with your own hands from the Mauerlat to the ridge. Below in this article you will find drawings and photos, and detailed step-by-step instructions will help you understand them. You will also learn how high the ridge should be and how it depends on the functionality of the attic space, learn how to calculate the thickness and pitch of the truss system.

Classic gable roof

What are the roofs

The main types of roofs of private houses

In order to clearly imagine what a gable roof is, look at what other options are used in the construction of private houses. And this is not all, but the most popular:

- the easiest coating option for construction in the private sector. It is mainly used for country houses and utility rooms.
Gable - the most common option for country houses. Despite the apparent simplicity, this type is very practical and beautiful in execution.
Hip - more suitable for houses with a large area. This design is able to withstand very strong wind loads, up to a storm, thanks to the streamlined shape.
Half hip - this option is done more for beauty, as this is a prototype of a gable roof with cut corners from the ends of the ridge.
Hipped - pyramidal shape is suitable for square buildings. In fact, this is a prototype of a hip roof.
Vaulted - rarely used for residential construction, although it is no exception.

For a rectangular house with an area of 60 to 100 m2, the two-slope option can be called the most suitable - it is easy to perform and inexpensive to implement. In addition, there you can equip not only the attic, but also the attic.

Stages of construction of a gable roof

Now let's figure out how to build a gable roof system in a private house. There are several stages in this process, and we will consider each of them separately.

Calculation of the truss system, taking into account the existing loads

You can not use the formulas for the calculation if you do not make roofs in the future and just download the program (http://srub-banya.by/programs/raschet_stropil.exe). By opening the downloaded file, you will be taken to a page with a menu - it is located in the horizontal line at the top.

Main operating loads:

Snow cover.
Wind pressure.

In addition to the main loads, there are also secondary or “default” ones, these are:

Weight of roofing material.
Mass of insulation (if provided).
Own weight of the truss system.

Values:

S is the load value in kg/m2.
µ is the coefficient corresponding to the slope angle.
Sg - snow load standard in kg / m2.

The slope of the slope is expressed in degrees and is denoted by the symbol α (alpha). To determine the value of α, you need to divide the height H by half the span L. Below is a table with the results of determining the main slopes.

In cases where:

α≤30⁰, µ=1;
α≥60⁰, µ=0;
30°<α<60°, µ = 0,033*(60-α).

Distribution of snow loads in Russia

The map shows eight snow regions, and the Sg value for each is calculated in kPa converted to kg/m2:

I - 0.8 kPa = 80 kg/m2;
II - 1.2 kPa = 120 kg / m²;
III - 1.8 kPa = 180 kg / m²;
IV - 2.4 kPa = 240 kg / m²;
V - 3.2 kPa = 320 kg / m²;
VI - 4.0 kPa = 400 kg / m²;
VII - 4.8 kPa = 480 kg / m²;
VIII - 5.6 kPa = 560 kg / m².

For the map above, Appendix 5 of SNiP 2.01.07-85 "Loads and Impacts" is mandatory. And now let's make a trial calculation for Ivanovo (this is the IV district on the map), the value is 240 kg / m².

So: H/L=2.5/3.5=0.714

According to the table α=35⁰. Given that 30°<α<60°, вычисление µ делаем по формуле µ = 0,033·(60-α)=0,033*(50-35)=0,825. Следовательно, S=Sg*µ=240*0,825=198 кг/м², что и есть максимально возможной снеговой нагрузкой.

Wind loads

At steep roofs, where α > 30 °, then the slopes have a large windage. For flat roofs, where α< 30° увеличена турбулентность.

The average value of the wind load Wm at a height Z above the ground is calculated by the formula Wm=Wo*K*C.

In this formula, the value;

Wo is wind pressure;
K is the coefficient of change in wind pressure relative to height;
C is the aerodynamic coefficient.

Wind loads on the territory of the former USSR

Wind pressure standards by region

Coefficient value

Let's make a conditional payment . The aerodynamic coefficient C can be from -8 when the wind undermines the roof to +0.8 with a large windage (the wind presses on the slope). Considering the conditionality of the calculation, we take C = 0.8.

In the same Ivanovsky district, we take a house where h=6m (α=35⁰). This is region II, where Wo= 30 kg/m², the coefficient is less than 10, which means K=1.0. Therefore: Wm=Wo*K*C=30*1*0.8=24 kg/m².

Roof weight

The mass of the roof varies depending on material

Mass of all components

The conditional calculation for the same house on cement-sand tiles will be:

And here is the calculation for the lightest roofing material, metal tiles:

We calculate the truss system

In this case, we will be guided by GOST 24454-80 for conifers.

Section width (according to the thickness of the board), B	Section height (along the width of the board), H
16	75	100	125	150	—	—	—	—	—
19	75	100	125	150	175	—	—	—	—
22	75	100	125	150	175	200	225	—	—
25	75	100	125	150	175	200	225	250	275
32	75	100	125	150	175	200	225	250	275
40	75	100	125	150	175	200	225	250	275
44	75	100	125	150	175	200	225	250	275
50	75	100	125	150	175	200	225	250	275
60	75	100	125	150	175	200	225	250	275
75	75	100	125	150	175	200	225	250	275
100	—	100	125	150	175	200	225	250	275
125	—	—	125	150	175	200	225	250	—
150	—	—	—	150	175	200	225	250	—
175	—	—	—	—	175	200	225	250	—
200	—	—	—	—	—	200	225	250	—
250	—	—	—	—	—	—	—	250	—

We take an arbitrary section width and determine the height:

H ≥ 8.6*Lmax*√(Qr/(B* Rbend)), where slope α< 30°,

H ≥ 9.5*Lmax*√(Qr/(B*Rbend)), where Rbend e slope α > 30°.

Values:

H is the height of the section, cm;
Lmax - rafter leg of maximum length, m;
Qr - distributed load per meter of rafter leg, kg / mr;
B- section width, cm.

For softwood sawn timber Rbend:

Grade I - 140 kg / cm²;
II grade - 130 kg / cm²;
III grade - 85 kg / cm².

Now let's check whether the deflection will fit into the standard, which for all materials under load should not exceed the value L / 200 (L is the length of the working section of the leg). The indicator must correspond to the inequality: 3.125*Qr*(Lmax)³/(B H³) ≤ 1.

Meaning:

Lmax is the working section of the leg of maximum length, m;

B is the width of the section, cm;

H is the height of the section, cm.

We count on the same house in Ivanovo, taking into account the conditions where:

slope α=35⁰;
rafter pitch A = 0.8 m;
working section of the leg Lmax=2.8 m;
pine timber of the 1st grade Rbend = 140 kg/cm2;
cement-sand tiles 50 kg/m2.

In the table above we have calculated that with these materials the total load is Q=303 kg/m².

we calculate the load per running meter of the leg: Qr=A*Q= 0.8*303=242 kg/m running.
Let's take a board thickness of 5 cm and calculate the cross section along the height: it means: H ≥ 9.5*Lmax* √(Qr/B*Rbend), since the slope α>30°. H≥9.5*2.8*√(242/5*140)=15.6 cm. Based on the table, the board with the closest section will be 5×17.5 cm.
We check the inequality: 3.125*Qr*(Lmax)³/B*H³≤1 or 3.125*242*(2.8)³*5*(17.5)³=0.61<1.

As a result, we got a cross section of rafters for erecting a roof of 50 × 175 mm with a step of 80 cm.

Mauerlat installation

Mauerlat on a brick wall

To build a gable roof on your own, you can’t do without a Mauerlat, which is the basis of the truss system. If we are talking about a residential building, then a bar with a section from 50 × 150 mm to 150 × 200 mm is usually used for it (the thicker the wall, the larger the section of the bar in width). A board or beam is mounted on load-bearing walls and fixed with anchors. Given that the Mauerlat will withstand the entire truss system with associated loads, then its installation will directly affect the mechanical strength of the entire roof. Below is a video showing how a Mauerlat is installed on the walls of a block house.

Video: Installing the Mauerlat

Assembling the truss system

Rafter legs are easier to assemble on the ground

It is most convenient to assemble a structure such as rafters (2 legs plus additional elements) on the ground, as in the photo above, and not on the roof, so that later it can be lifted with blocks or just ropes, but this is not a requirement. Above, you could learn how to make calculations for such a system, taking into account all the loads, therefore, you already know what section of the boards you will need, what the height of the ridge and the step size will be. At the top, the boards are joined “on the mustache”, and the ridge beam is installed only after the installation of the extreme rafters.

A system without an overhang, where the legs are fixed with different fasteners

Systems with an overhang also have different fasteners.

At the top you see two diagrams showing truss systems without overhang and with overhang, but the most important thing is to pay attention to the method of fastening, or rather, to the fastener itself. This can be a steel corner (preferably reinforced), short stacks, tightening boards, nails, self-tapping screws and staples. This is a very important point, since during turbulence the roof can be blown up, and overturned with a side load, although the result in both cases will be equally deplorable. After installing the side rafters, the ridge beam is fixed, checking the vertical level of each leg.

Watch the video, which explains some of the nuances of editing, but do not forget that each artist may have their own methods, and if you hear or see inconsistencies with your ideas, then this is quite normal.

Video: Installation of the truss system

Roof

Installation of ceramic tiles

Further work on the installation of the truss system depends on what is provided in the attic and what roofing material will be used. For example, if you want to equip an attic there, then it is quite natural that you cannot do without insulation and waterproofing. Also, a certain role will be played by the heating system, or rather, the presence or absence of a chimney, as well as ventilation.

Depending on the choice of roofing material, a crate is made. That is, it can be intermittent, as in the top photo, or solid if you decide to make a roof from shingles. Also, roofs sometimes provide for the installation of a heating cable from icing, and it can be mounted not only from the outside, but also from the inside, laying under the roof.

Conclusion

I hope you understand how to make a gable roof with your own hands - the most important thing is the correct calculations of the pitch, section of the rafter legs and slope. If you are interested in certain points, such as mounting the Mauerlat, rafters or roofing, then these are topics for separate articles, which you can also find on our website.

To learn how to make a roof with your own hands correctly, you need to study a few instructions for doing this rather complicated work. It should be noted right away that there are several types of roofs, each of which has its own device scheme and requires a special approach. In addition, the choice of the type of roof will depend on the purpose of the building that will be covered by it.

Properly erected roof elements will be able to protect the house not only from precipitation, but also keep precious heat inside the building in winter. Therefore, a well-built and insulated roof is no less important than reliable warm walls.

Roof types

As mentioned above, there are several types of roofs. When choosing an option suitable for a particular building, it is worth considering some of them in order to know what they are.

Different types of roofs...

To date, the following main types of roofs are satisfied in construction practice: single-pitched, gable with a slope, tent, mansard, hip four-pitched, half-hip, multi-pitched.

… from the simplest to the most complex

shed roof

This option is usually used to cover garages or outbuildings, but sometimes such a roof is also suitable for residential private houses.

Such a design can be called one of the simplest of all existing ones, especially in cases where the slope of the slope is very small. If there are plans to equip another room under the roof, then the design becomes somewhat more complicated. Nevertheless, this type of roof is the most economical in terms of roofing and lumber consumption.

Gable roof

The gable version of the roof is considered traditional for residential buildings, country houses and is installed more often than all other types. Apparently, this is due to the fact that such a roof can be arranged for any structure of the building. The slope of the slopes will depend on the distance between the outer walls and the location of the load-bearing walls inside the house.

hipped roof

This is a fairly complex design, which is almost never used in recent times. However, if it is decided to choose it, then it is better to use a beam-tightening system with struts and racks for the device.

The roof consists of four isosceles triangles - their vertices converge at one point. The hipped roof resembles a tetrahedral pyramid or tent, hence its name.

Double pitched roof

Such a roof is arranged according to the scheme of a gable roof, but it has bevels of different slopes in the front part.

Hip or pitched roof

This design is somewhat reminiscent of a hip roof version, but, unlike it, it has a ridge. The roof is quite complex in design, and most often a scheme with double puffs and beams is used to build it.

Half hip roof

This design has hardly been used in recent years, since it is rather complicated in the device. If it is chosen, then it is mainly arranged according to the truss scheme with puffs.

pitched roof

Such a roof is arranged in houses with complex layouts, or if an extension is made to the main building. The design of a multi-pitched roof is quite complex, and it is used only in extreme cases.

mansard roof

You can’t call a mansard roof simple in execution ...

Due to the fact that this design allows you to solve two problems at once - to get an additional room at the same time as a reliable roof, the attic version can be called one of the most popular after the gable type.

... but under certain conditions, a residential attic can also be located under a conventional gable roof

Roof pitch

It is very important to make the correct slope of the roof - the durability of not only the structure covering the house, but the entire building will depend on this. In regions with cold winters and a lot of snow, the slope plays a particularly important role, since if it is insufficient, then snowdrifts will collect on the surface, which, when melted, can simply fail the roof. That is why it is recommended to make the slope at least 40 ÷ 45 degrees.

In addition to the location of the building, the roofing material also affects the choice of roof slope. So, if it is planned to use tiles or slate for covering, then the slope should not be less than 25 degrees, otherwise water may seep into the attic at the joints, as there will be a small intensity of water runoff.

When constructing a gable structure, the slope is usually made from 30 to 45, and for a single slope 25 ÷ 30 degrees.

Components of the roof structure

In different roof systems, the elements vary, but the main ones still remain the same. These include the following:

Skate - the upper part of the roof, the place where its slopes are connected. This element is absent in the tent and single-sided version.
Slopes are the main planes of the roof covered with roofing material.
Endova - the inner corner of the roof, formed at the junction of two slopes. This element is present only in complex structures. When arranging the roof, valleys should be given special attention during waterproofing work, since such a site is one of the most vulnerable places in the structure, it is in them that the largest accumulation of snow occurs.
The eaves overhang is the overhang of the roof on the sides of the house. They are installing drainage systems.
Gable overhang - the protruding part of the slopes above the front side of the roof.
The rafter system is a structure that is the basis for the installation of slopes. There are several varieties of these systems, but the most reliable of them is the triangle, since it is this figure that gives the structure rigidity.

Rafter systems

Before installing any structure made of wood, the material must first be coated with antiseptics and fire retardants, which can protect it from fungal formations, insect colonies and increase the fire safety of the entire system.

The main element in the rafter system is the rafters, laid on the Mauerlat, supported by racks, fastened with beds and puffs.

In the upper part, the rafters are overlapped and fastened, while the lower ones are fixed to the Mauerlat or to the bars laid between the rafters.

The rafter system has different shapes and can be layered or hanging.

You can make a simplified version when a crate is stuffed on the rafters, and roofing material is immediately laid on top of it. But the very first winter will show that the roof requires insulation. Therefore, it is best to immediately do everything right and not return to this issue again.

Approximate structure of the "sandwich" of the insulated roof

The first thing that is recommended to be done is to sheathe the truss system from the inside with a vapor barrier film. It is stretched and attached to the rafters with a stapler and staples.
Further, on top of the vapor barrier film, the roof from the attic side is sheathed with drywall plates - it is screwed with self-tapping screws. Drywall will not only give the attic space neatness, but also serve as the basis for insulation boards.
At the next stage, you will have to climb the roof so that between the rafters, on the vapor barrier film, lay a heater, which is most often mineral wool in mats or rolls.
A boardwalk is laid on top of the insulation. The boards for it should not be too thick so as not to make the structure heavier. Instead of boards, plywood sheets (or OSB) 4-5 mm thick can also be used.
The next layer is sheets of waterproofing material - it can be a dense polyethylene film or roofing felt. The waterproofing sheets are overlapped by 20 ÷ 25 cm on top of each other.
On top of the waterproofing, a counter-lattice is arranged, which consists of slats 10–20 mm thick and is stuffed directly onto the rafters.
By counter-lattice fixed roof sheathing, with a distance between adjacent guides, which should be less than the tiles, by about 5 mm.
A frontal board is nailed along the eaves, to which a drain system will later be arranged.
Before laying the roofing material, hooks are fixed to the rafters, on which drainpipes will be mounted. gutters. After their installation, a cornice strip is installed, which is fixed to the frontal board
Having arranged the crate and drainage system, you can proceed with the installation of tiles. It starts from the right or left side of the roof, from the bottom row, the tiles are aligned along the edge of the cornice and overlapped, in accordance with the locking system available on it.

The second row of tiles begins to be laid on the same side as the first - it covers the first row by 50 ÷ 70 mm. Installation is carried out in the same order, up to the roof ridge.
Having completed laying on the roof slopes, it is necessary to install a ridge at their junction.
An end bar is fixed to the side rafter, having a size of 25 × 50 mm, and is installed on the corner of the roof corner - stub.
A self-adhesive sealant is placed between the end bar and the tile.
The entire side of the roof is closed with an end plate, which is designed to protect the roofing material from wind, which can tear off the coating with strong gusts.

Above, the process of arranging the under-roofing system and roofing with tiles was outlined briefly, with a simple enumeration of the main steps. It probably makes sense to consider it in more detail, literally step by step.

Prices for different types of tiles

Roof tiles

Step-by-step instructions for covering the roof with a tiled roof

Installation of the base under the roofing material

Nowadays, a very wide variety of different roofing materials is presented on the construction market. Nevertheless, tile against this “background” does not lose its popularity, although it is one of the most complex and time-consuming roofing installations.

Ceramic tiles are represented by several European and domestic companies, and it may differ in some design nuances. But the principle of mounting the crate and the coating itself is the same.

For the installation and fixing of the tiles, it is necessary to create the correct basis - the crate, therefore, it is necessary to begin the consideration of the process with the installation of this particular design department.

Illustration
	At the initial stage, of course, one of the types of truss systems is created, the design of which is described above. Before starting work on the installation of the batten on the rafters, the elements of the system must be additionally checked for their evenness and correct geometry. If irregularities are found on one of the rafter legs, then it must be leveled, since this flaw may adversely affect further work. The check is carried out using a perfectly even beam and a building level.
	The next step along the entire cornice line, a metal cornice strip is nailed to the edges of the rafters, which will protect the ends of the rafters from moisture getting on them. Separate planks are laid and overlapped.
	Further, on top of the truss system, a vapor-permeable membrane is stretched and fixed with brackets. Its first canvas is laid from left to right on top of the cornice strip.
	The next strip of material is laid horizontally, overlapping 150 mm on the bottom sheet. The membrane is mounted with an inscription, which is applied to one of the surfaces, outward. Along the cornice edge, the canvas is additionally fixed on the cornice strip with the help of construction double-sided tape.
	The last top sheet should protrude above the ridge, as it bends onto the second roof slope.
	At the next stage, the vapor-permeable membrane is fixed from above to the rafter legs with counter rails. It should be noted that if the length of the slope is not more than 6000 mm, the thickness of the counter rail should be 24 mm, with a length of not more than 12000 mm - 28 mm, from 12000 mm - 40 mm. The counter rails should not reach the ridge rib by 120÷150 mm.
	Further, on the ridge at the top of the junction of the rafter legs, pieces of timber 150 ÷ 200 long and with a section of 50 × 50 mm are fixed. The space remaining between them will play the role of ventilation gaps.
	After that, the ridge is covered with a sheet of a vapor-permeable membrane, which should be on the slopes and go beyond the structure from the gables to a distance of 200 ÷ 250 mm.
	On top of the membrane, laid along the ridge, for its fixation, sections of the beam are fixed in continuation of the counter-rails. Their size should be equal to the distance from the end of the counter rail to the crest of the ridge.
	During the formation of the eaves overhang, a perforated mesh strip is mounted on the ends of the counter-battens and on the eaves strip, designed to provide ventilation of the space formed under the roofing material and protect against the penetration of various insects into this gap.
	Further, brackets are fixed in the eaves of the counter-rails for mounting gutters on them. Each of them is fixed with two screws or nails.
	In order for the gutter to be laid into the brackets without problems, they must be installed exactly in line with the formation of a slope for free flow of water. To do this, craftsmen often install two extreme brackets with the necessary difference, then pull a cord between them, and, already focusing on it, fix the rest of the hooks.
	After installing the brackets, a hinged beam is nailed along the cornice edge of the counter-rails along the entire length of the slope eaves. It also becomes the starting beam of the crate under the tiles.
	From the hinged beam on the extreme (at gables or roof profile fractures) counter-rails of the slope, the distance (step) with which the battens of the crate will be fixed is marked. This step will depend on the length and overlap of the particular shingle model. Most often it varies from 340 mm to 370 mm. Marking must be done on the extreme counter-rails. Then, on the marked risks, a nail is hammered in, a tracer colored cord is fixed and pulled on them, and with the help of it, a common line is beaten off on all counter-rails to secure the battens of the crate.
	The next step on the entire plane of the slope along the markings, horizontal battens of the crate are nailed to the counter-rails. Their cross-sectional size should be 70 × 30 or 70 × 25 mm.
	Upon completion of the installation, the crate should look like this.
	Next, it is necessary to prepare the roof ridge for further installation of ridge tiles on it - this can be done by attaching two beams to the ridge along the entire length, one on top of the other.
	Another option is to use special elements called ridge bar holders. They are screwed to the counter rails using two self-tapping screws on each side of the ridge.
	A wooden bar is installed and fixed in the fixed holders. Holders are convenient in that they can have different sizes and heights, so you can always choose it according to the required parameters.
	Further, a gutter is installed and fixed in the brackets along the entire length of the eaves.
	The gutter is additionally pressed by another cornice strip mounted on the eaves rail. This element, fixed along the entire length of the cornice, closes the entrance to the under-roof space, thereby protecting it from moisture, and descends into the gutter.
	Further, on top of the crate along the edges of the slope from the side of the gables, bars with a section of 70 × 70 mm are nailed. They will become the basis for fixing the wind board from the gable part of the roof, as well as limit and close the edge of the tiled masonry.
	After that, wind boards are installed and fixed along the pediment, which are additionally interconnected in the ridge area with a metal corner. On this, the preparation of the crate for the installation of a tile coating can be considered completed.

Installation of tiles on the prepared crate

The installation of most models of ceramic tiles is almost identical, no matter what manufacturer's material is chosen by the owners.

Illustration	Brief description of the operation to be performed
	Installation of tiles starts from the eaves on the right side of the slope. The corner tile is laid first, which is fixed to the second rail from the eaves.
	The first tile is fixed in the upper part with the help of two self-tapping screws that are not completely screwed in.
	Further, the entire first row of tiles is laid out, each of which is fixed in the upper part on the lathing rail with the help of one self-tapping screw through a hole drilled in it in advance.
	At the end of the first row of tiles, the last left corner tile is installed and screwed with two self-tapping screws.
	Further, from the bottom to the ridge, the first vertical gable row is mounted, consisting of corner tiles, each of which is fixed with two self-tapping screws.
	Next, you will need to prepare the tiles, which will be laid on top of the bracket for mounting a snow barrier on it. In order for the tile to neatly stand up and close the bracket, its location is marked on its reverse side and part of the lock is carefully knocked out with a hammer.
	Now, in the second horizontal row with a step of 900 mm, the brackets themselves are installed. This element is hooked with a hook and screwed to the third lath of the crate from the eaves. With the lower side, it is installed on top of the lower tile of the first row.
	Once installed and secured, the bracket should look like this illustration.
	Further, the prepared tile is installed on top of the fixed bracket and screwed to the third lath of the crate.
	The tile covering the bracket is additionally fixed with a wire hook, with which it is hooked to the side edge and twisted to the lath of the crate. In this way, every third tile of this row is fixed, which is laid on brackets-holders. In this illustration, a wire hook is clearly visible, located on the left edge of the tiles of the second row.
	Having installed the shingles of the second row, and having fixed all the brackets for the snow barrier, you need to try it on in place as it will be fixed later. It does not make sense to fix the barrier yet, as it will interfere with the further installation of the tiles.
	Further, laying of ordinary and corner tiles with an overlap is carried out, with their connection to locks, also from right to left, from bottom to top to those areas where additional elements necessary for the normal functioning of the roof structure are built into the coating.
	In this way, most often it is necessary to lay special ventilation tiles. If the roof has a length of up to 4500 mm, then these elements are not used. With a length of 4500 to 7000 mm, one row of ventilation tiles is mounted on the second row, counting from the ridge. On longer roofs, ventilation tiles are installed in three rows with a spacing of 1500 mm between them.
	On the third or fourth row from the ridge, in the middle part of the slope, a tile with a ventilation pipe, called a passage, is installed.
	In combination with other elements of the roof, this element looks like it is shown in this illustration.
	Having tried on this tile on a slope, it is temporarily removed, and a round hole is marked and cut out in the membrane under it. Then a sealing ring is installed in it.
	Further, from the attic side, a corrugated connecting pipe is inserted into the ring. Usually its diameter is 120 mm. Then, it is connected with the reverse side to the ventilation duct of the building.
	A protective cap is put on top of the ventilation pipe, which will protect the entire channel from atmospheric precipitation, dust and debris.
	Complete with tiles, a bench (step) for a chimney sweep is often purchased. This element of the roofing system is fixed on the fourth or fifth row from the ridge. The bench brackets are also of a hook design, and they are hooked and screwed to the top lath of the batten in the laying of the row. The lower side of the brackets is installed in the recesses on the tiles of the underlying row.
	In order for the closing brackets of the tiles of the upper row to fit snugly against the lath of the crate, chips are made in its locks located in the upper part after fitting. Then, the tiles are laid on top of the hook-brackets and fixed with screws and a wire hook - by analogy with what has already been discussed above.
	Another important and complex node when covering the roof is the design of the adjunction of the roofing material to the walls of the chimney. The joint between them must be sealed correctly and tightly. The most convenient way to work on the formation of the abutment is to use a flexible self-adhesive tape made using lead and aluminum. It well accepts a relief form of a tile and is well pasted to it. Adjacency finishing works are carried out in a certain sequence. First, the tape is glued to the front of the pipe with a call to its side walls, as well as to the tiles of the row passing in front of the chimney. To do this, in place, cuts of the desired shape are made on the tape. Then, it is measured and cut off, and then the tape is glued to the side walls and the tiles adjacent to them.
	To form a joint on the back side of the pipe, two pieces of tape of the same length are taken, which exceeds the width of the pipe by 20 ÷ 30 mm. They are glued to each other in width. Then, having combined the middle of the tape and the width of the pipe at a height of 150 ÷ 200 mm, the waterproofing is glued to the wall of the chimney and onto a metal sheet, previously fixed to the crate on the upper side of the pipe. After that, on a tape glued to the metal, a row of tiles is laid on top. The parts of the tape protruding at the corners are cut, wrapped on the sides of the pipe, and overlapped on the waterproofing already fixed to them.
	Some craftsmen prefer to decorate the junction with sheet metal, which is cut into strips of the desired width, mounted according to the same principle as a self-adhesive waterproofing tape. The connection of the edges of the metal at the corners is carried out with the help of rivets and folding.
	Having fixed a waterproofing tape or a metal casing around the entire perimeter of the pipe, along its upper line on the pipe walls, a metal profile bar is fixed, pressing the flexible tape to the surfaces of the chimney. Then, the gap remaining between the upper edge of the plank and the wall of the chimney pipe is filled with a roofing sealant. Often a groove is cut through the wall of the pipe, into which the bent edge of this metal tide is inserted. Then the shtraba is sealed with the same sealant.
	Next, proceed to work on the ridge knot. First, a perforated sealing ventilation tape made using aluminum and lead is laid on the fixed ridge beam overlapping the top row of tiles.
	Due to its flexibility, this ribbon skirt perfectly adapts to the shape of the tiles without much effort.
	After the tape has been laid, the end ridge element is screwed on the pediment side of the ridge, and the first ridge tile is tried on to it.
	Further, the first tile is removed, and a ridge clamp with a bracket, which comes with the ridge tile, is screwed to the timber fixed on the ridge of the roof.
	Then the first ridge tile is installed in it. Further, it is fastened on the other side with the next clamp using a self-tapping screw.
	The next step is to install the second tile into the fixed bracket, which is also fixed at the end with a clamp - and so on, until the ridge is fully formed.
	When finished, the roof ridge should look like this illustration.
	The final stage in the design of the ridge is the fixing of the second end element. If necessary, the last tile of this row is cut to the desired size.
	When all the additional elements of the roofing are installed, the last step to the brackets installed at the bottom of the slope is to fix the lattice barrier that prevents snow from slipping.
	This illustration shows a view of the finished roof slab as viewed from the eaves side.
	This is how the roof slope will look with all the elements installed on it.

After completing the roof covering, you can move to the attic to remove the temporary decking and lay the already stationary wooden floor. Installation begins to be carried out from the side of the attic or from the side of the room. The attic floor also consists of several layers and is arranged in different ways. The main thing is that if the roof is arranged, then work can be carried out slowly, without fear of precipitation on permeable materials and inside the premises.

In conclusion, it is worth emphasizing once again that the installation of a roof is a laborious, responsible and rather dangerous process. Therefore, to carry out the installation of the entire roofing system, it is sometimes better to invite specialists who are professionally engaged in the construction of houses, arrangement and roofing.

The roof of the house is a reliable and durable protection from rain, wind, scorching sun or cold snow. It retains heat in the premises, decorates the appearance of the building. A do-it-yourself gable roof is the final stage in the construction of the box, requiring preparation and skill from the builder.

Installation includes assembly of the truss system and lathing, hydro- and thermal insulation works, laying of roofing material, filing of overhangs. The roof is built for many decades, so it must be safe, functional and durable.

A gable roof is the most common design in private construction. It consists of two planes inclined in opposite directions at an angle to the horizon of 20-42 °, connected at the top - the ridge. Thanks to this form, snow, rain and melt water flow down from the roof surface without lingering. With an increase in the angle of inclination, the windage of the structure increases, which, with strong gusts of wind, can lead to separation.

The supporting frame of the roof consists of a truss system, which includes the following elements:

On the crate, layers of hydro-, noise- and vapor barriers, insulation, if the attic is residential, and roofing materials are mounted.

The gable roof truss system in private construction is usually made of wood. The material is available, easy to process, allows you to build light spatial structures that do not overload the walls and foundation.

Schemes of the truss system of a gable roof.

Sometimes rolled metal is used for the construction of the frame - channels, pipes, I-beams, corners. This method in individual construction is used much less frequently. Steel structures are more expensive, assembly requires professional skills and equipment.

The cross sections of standard load-bearing elements are:

mauerlat (lying) - a bar with a thickness of 100, a height of 150 mm, a log with a diameter of 170-190 mm;
rafters - timber 50x150, 100x150 mm, logs hewn to one edge, boards laid on edge;
racks - 100x100 mm;
sheathing boards - thickness 25 mm.

With large spans of houses and high loads, the dimensions of the sections of the bearing elements are determined by calculating the strength. With appropriate preparation with antiseptics, wood is resistant to decay. Special compositions - flame retardants - protect the material from fire.

In addition to the supporting frame and covering, the roof contains the following elements:

From the sides, the roof is limited by gables - parts of the walls of a triangular shape. The attic can serve as an attic and be used as a living space for permanent or temporary residence.

Features of the construction of roofs with an angle

A gable roof is the easiest option for building a private house. The truss system can have a layered, hanging or combined structure.

Layered and hanging truss system.

In the first case, the rafters are “leaned over” - they are laid on external and internal supports. In the second, they “hang” with support only on the walls.

Layered construction

The layered system is used in the construction of houses with internal main walls, which unload external enclosing structures from thrust. The main load here is vertical.

The absence of horizontal bursting forces simplifies and reduces the cost of the design of the supporting roof frame. It consists of rafter legs, struts, crossbars, runs and racks. Mauerlat or bed is mounted 100-150 mm above the floor level for free access to the bottom of the rafters. If the walls are fragile, it is placed around the perimeter of the building. Otherwise, you can get by with shorties 60-70 cm long, laid under the rafter legs.

In wooden buildings, the function of the Mauerlat is performed by the upper crown or strapping. The rafters are cut into the carrier beam with the lower end, additionally fixed with brackets and twists of wire. So that bursting stresses do not occur in the ridge and the rafters do not move along the slope, the pairing is performed with an overlap or butt, fixed with overlays, bolts, dowels.

The system is reinforced with girders, struts and racks. In addition, it helps to reduce the cross section of the rafters and deflections. Connect the elements with metal fasteners - nails, staples, bolts, overlays, rings, toothed discs.

Roof hanging method

Hanging rafters are mounted when the house spans 6-14 m. Relying only on the outer walls, the load-bearing beams perceive significant bursting forces. To distribute them, additional horizontal and vertical elements are introduced into the structure - crossbars, puffs, grandmas (racks based on a puff).

The wider the span of the structure, the greater the stresses arising in the structures, the more difficult the device of the frame. Up to 6 m, there are enough puffs that combine the functions of floor beams. Above - additional crossbars are introduced. In houses without an internal load-bearing wall exceeding a width of 9 m, the roof system is strengthened with grandmas and struts. A fragment of two rafters, puffs and ties is called a truss.

In some cases, the Mauerlat is not installed. Finished trusses are mounted on a board laid on top of the wall on a layer of waterproofing. The rafters are cut into a puff or laid with a beveled edge. Fasten with dowels, overlays, clamps.

The ridge knot is more difficult to solve than in layered roofs. The rafters are cut into a horizontal beam, the joint is reinforced with wooden or metal plates. The installation of a hanging rafter system is more complicated and expensive than a non-thrust one. Therefore, trusses are often installed in increments of 3-4 m, connected by girders, along which layered rafters are laid. This method is called combined.

The advantage of hanging structures is the ability to use the attic space under the attic.

The choice of roof design

How to make a gable roof at home, you need to determine at the design stage before installing the box. If there is an internal main wall, it is advisable to use a layered system, in other cases - hanging or combined.

The angle of inclination of the rafters depends on the wind loads in the region - the larger they are, the lower the roof should be. The choice of roofing material also affects the slope. For various types of coatings, manufacturers recommend the optimal angles.

Important. When choosing a roof structure, the width of the span, the load from snow, wind, and own weight are decisive. The higher the indicators, the more powerful the sections of the elements should be, the more reliable the execution of the nodes.

Installation of a gable roof

For self-production, a rather difficult task is a gable roof of a house, step-by-step instructions will help you build it correctly and without errors.

Mauerlat mount

For the manufacture of a support beam, a beam or log is used, which is cut on one side for laying on the wall. The base must be level and horizontal. Under the Mauerlat, waterproofing is laid from rolled materials or coating compositions are used. This will protect the wood from rotting.

Important. For recommended installation armopoyas on top of the wall. It gives rigidity to the structure and at the same time serves as a solid base for attaching the truss system.

Mounting methods that are used when mounting the Mauerlat:

Steel wire with a diameter of 4-6 mm. In brickwork, under each rafter leg 3-4 rows lower, thin reinforcement twisted 2-3 times is laid. After the solution has dried, the beam is installed on a waterproofing layer, tied with hardware, and the ends are firmly fixed.
Metal anchors or L-shaped studs. They are laid into the wall during masonry or concreting in increments of 1-1.5 m to a depth of 45 cm. The rod must protrude at least 3 cm above the Mauerlat so that the nut and washer can be tightened. Preliminarily mark the locations of the holes for the fasteners by laying the beam on the hay and hitting it.
Dowel pins. A plastic sleeve is driven into the prepared hole, a self-tapping screw is screwed into the concrete. A good result is the use of chemical anchors. Mauerlat is mounted on fasteners in the same way as the previous description.
Curved reinforcement. Pieces of steel wire with a diameter of 10 mm or more in the shape of the letter G are laid between rows of blocks or bricks to a depth of 30-40 cm, the upper edge is released 25 cm above the Mauerlat. After mounting the beam, the reinforcement is bent and fixed with nails.
Wooden plugs and staples. Pieces of antiseptic timber with a length equal to the longitudinal size of the brick are embedded in the masonry directly under the rafter leg or 1 row lower. Mauerlat is fixed to the corks with metal brackets.

The timber for the Mauerlat is spliced along the length with an oblique or straight lock. In the corners they are connected “in half a tree”, “in a paw”. If the wood is not dry enough, anchoring with a nut is recommended. The position of the beam is adjusted every year until the moment when intensive shrinkage stops. It usually takes five years.

Important. Hardware in masonry or concrete should be as stationary as possible. Fasteners are unreliable if the anchors are mounted at an angle or their length is insufficient.

Hanging rafter device

A do-it-yourself gable roof with hanging rafters with a span of up to 6 m is mounted in the following sequence:

Align the base horizontally.
On the top trim mark the position of the rafters. Usually between them 0.8-1.5 m.
Gather farms or arches from rafters, puffs, crossbars on the ground.
Raise and install farms in the design position, starting from the extreme ones. Each is fixed with temporary jibs to maintain the vertical, which is controlled by a plumb or level.
Pull the cords along the lower and upper points between the extreme structures. Intermediate elements are exposed on them.
They fix trusses or arches with ridge boards, controlling the correspondence of the distances between the upper and lower points.

Important. If there are more than 6 m between the supports, the farm is reinforced with a headstock and struts. During installation, the truss structure is connected with temporary fasteners from diagonal boards.

Options for attaching hanging rafters to the Mauerlat

In the spacer system, the rafter and Mauerlat interface is performed using two technologies:

in a rigid way, excluding the movement of elements;
movable, or sliding, designed to compensate for shrinkage deformations of wood.

Rigid fastening is carried out with or without gash. In the first case, a saddle is cut out in the rafters for landing on a support beam. For this, a template is used. For additional support area and blocking of the movement of the system, washed down is done on a Mauerlat (fastening with a tooth) or on a thrust beam. Sampling wood weakens the section, so it is not recommended to cut more than 1/3 of the height of the board or beam.

In a knot without washing down, the forces from the rafters are transmitted to the Mauerlat only through fasteners - metal plates, corners and dowels. Additionally, a thrust bar up to 1 m long is installed, unloading the interface.

With the movable method, the elements are not rigidly connected. Wooden structures can move with fluctuations in humidity, change dimensions during shrinkage. Special sliding supports are used that allow the movement of the rafters along the axis. Such fasteners are often used in wooden buildings where deformations are significant.

In the case when the rafters are rigidly connected with tightening into one structure, the beam itself is attached to the mauerlat by means of corners.

The device of layered rafters

The sequence of installation of a non-expansive system differs from a hanging one:

On the inner supporting wall or pillars, a bed is laid flush with the Mauerlat.
Install racks.
A ridge beam is mounted on them.
So that the supports do not move, they are connected by longitudinal and lateral braces.
The rafters are supported on the racks and the beam alternately, starting from the extreme ones, in the ridge they are fixed overlay or end-to-end.

Apply galvanized corners, pads, self-tapping screws, clamps, T-shaped plates, studded fasteners.

Lathing installation

Lathing - the basis for laying roofing. At the same time, it strengthens the truss system, gives it stability and rigidity. It is made of boards, bars, moisture resistant, plywood, OSB. Boards or bars are mounted along the ridge. If the distance between them is up to 1 cm or the crate is made of shields or sheets, then it is called flooring. If the step is larger, then this is a sparse construction.

For laying large-sized rigid materials - corrugated slate, corrugated board, metal tiles, folded sheets, a sparse crate is used. It is stuffed according to the pattern.

If the material is small-sized, heavy or flexible - ceramic or bituminous tiles, ondulin, roll types - use flooring.

The crate can be single or double. In the latter case, first a row of bars is laid in increments of 0.6-1 m, then boards or shields are stuffed over them.

If the roof is supposed to be insulated and a full-fledged roofing pie is to be arranged, then an additional counter-lattice is mounted. Its function is to create a ventilation gap between the waterproofing layer and the coating.

Algorithm for mounting the crate with a counter-crate:

Waterproofing is attached to the rafter legs.
On top of the rafters, bars 40 mm thick are stuffed.
Perpendicularly lay the boards of the crate.

Complete the work with the installation of roofing. Insulation and vapor barrier are installed from the inside. heat-insulating mats are placed between the rafters, the film or membrane is fixed on top.

Everyone who builds a private house wants to save a little. So the idea of \u200b\u200bmaking a roof with your own hands arises. And for this, it is necessary to correctly install the truss structure and lay the roofing material, and each of these stages has its own nuances.

Construction types

Today, roofing acts not only as a protection for your home, but also as its distinctive architectural feature. Depending on what kind of roof the house has, there is a general impression of the facade. For example, a mansard roof makes the look of the house more conservative, while an exploited flat roof is built over modern cottages in high-tech, modern, eco styles.

flat

Despite their apparent primitiveness, it is flat roofs that are the most difficult to build. They are not very popular with the Russian consumer, since they are associated mainly with Soviet-built high-rise buildings, but recently an increasing number of people appreciate the convenience and functionality.

There are operated and non-operated flat roofs. In the first case, the roof surface is used as an additional functional space. So, here you can set up a garden, put a playground, organize a gym or adapt it to a terrace. In the second case, a roof is just a roof.

It is worth noting that the device of an unexploited version is much simpler, so for self-erection it is worth choosing it.

Flat roofs heavily load the walls, so you should not choose this model if you live in a frame house. In addition, it is advisable to consult with a professional so that he draws up a project and makes all the calculations. From a financial point of view, even with the help of a specialist, the arrangement of a flat roof is much cheaper than any other.

The biggest problem is removing snow from such a roof. In this case, it will have to be periodically cleaned manually so that the snow load is not excessive for the structure. You will also need to organize a drain (the internal option is best suited for flat roofs). We must not forget that flat roof suitable for initially strong or additionally reinforced walls, otherwise the load-bearing walls may not withstand and crack.

Shed

Shed roofs are rarely chosen for full-fledged private houses. This is due to their small decorative qualities. Indeed, the shed design looks unfinished. Therefore, much more often you can see a shed roof over a private country house, an extension or a garage. If it is chosen for a cottage, then it is most likely made in a modern style.

The first and main advantage of a shed roof is its simplicity. Even a beginner can make a shed roof, starting with drawing up a drawing and ending with finishing. Complex calculations are not required here, you just need to know the basics of geometry. The shed roof can withstand both snow and wind loads well. It is only important to install it correctly. As with a flat roof, savings are achieved through the small amount of materials required.

Not to mention the difficulties with ventilation. There is almost no free space under a shed roof, so some difficulties may arise. It is practically impossible to make an attic under an ordinary shed roof, as well as to take at least some space under the attic. Most often, a shed roof is used as an unusual ceiling for the upper floor, which imposes additional obligations on its insulation and waterproofing.

The most popular are structures with multi-level shed roofing systems, which look much more unusual and futuristic, especially if the house itself is correctly integrated into the surrounding landscape and is made in modern stylistic directions.

gable

Gable structures can be found much more often than single-sided ones. This is due to their traditional appearance, which many residents associate with comfort and coziness. The construction of a simple symmetrical gable roof also does not take much time and effort and will be on the shoulder even for a beginner. However, financially, a gable roof is much more expensive than a single-pitched or flat roof.

You don’t have to take care of a gable roof: it will not be necessary to manually clean the snow from it, the maximum is to renew the paintwork from time to time. In favor of gable roofs, the fact that they equally distribute the load on the walls also speaks. In the case of, for example, a single-slope structure, more weight will fall on the “low” wall, and a dual-slope structure distributes the weight between two parallel walls. In this regard, it can be erected over houses from fragile, in a general sense, materials.

An example is a frame cottage.

Before construction, it will be necessary to draw up a scheme or project, so that in the future the rafter system can withstand the weight of the roofing material. By the way, the rafter belt is made on the ground and only then transported to the installation site. Therefore, not even the strongest person can make such a roof, but professional builders still advise doing a gable roof with a partner.

With preliminary calculations and proper preparation, the attic space under the roof can be turned into an attic, however, the decision to build an attic floor is best taken at the design stage of the building and the roof in particular, since a number of requirements are put forward for attics (especially residential).

hip

This type is one of the most popular. The four-slope design with two triangular and two trapezoidal slopes is comfortable, functional and beautiful. A big plus is that here you can organize a spacious attic - even after the roof is built. To do this, you will need to carry out some insulation and insulation work, but you will not need to disassemble the roof: everything can be done from the inside.

All hip roofs are able to withstand strong snow and wind loads. The structure has four stiffeners, each of which has approximately the same weight, which is why the structure acquires similar strength. There is another reason to choose a hip roof: with this type, you can make large cornice overhangs along the edges, which will protect the walls from rain or snow. Due to the fact that all overhangs are in the same plane, they are less destroyed, since they are all exposed to the same negative environmental factors.

An important advantage is also in the aesthetic side: a house with an attic under a hip roof looks more harmonious, not so elongated upwards.

The disadvantages include difficulties with the construction of a roof of this type, high cost. It will take not only impressive financial investments, but also a lot of time. It will not be possible to make such a roof alone - you will definitely need a whole team. If there is an attic under the roof, and the windows are located directly in the roof itself, then water can seep through them if the installation was not carried out completely correctly. The solution would be to cover the windows from the outside, but this is impractical.

Half hip

Half-hip roof began to be popular in our country not so long ago. In appearance, it is very similar to the classic hip, however, it has one difference, which is that the end slopes do not fall to the level of the Mauerlat, but remain slightly higher, as if opening part of the wall. As a result, windows can be made in a flat wall through which water will not seep through.

The most demanded are gable half-hip structures, however, four-slope ones can also be found. It should be borne in mind that it is impossible to make a four-slope half-hip one yourself: you will need the right plan, a project with all the calculations.

It takes special knowledge and skills to do this.

Half-hip roofs have all the same advantages as hip roofs. An additional advantage is the presence of walls in which you can make windows or arrange access to the balcony. Materials for construction will also require much less. However, the time spent on construction will increase markedly, since the construction of this type of roof is more complex.

When planning and designing, it is also necessary to take into account the type of roofing material, since it directly affects how rigid the truss system should be. In addition, it must be borne in mind that the truss system will have more components. The process of laying the finishing material will also become more complicated.

Shatrovaya

The hipped roof also belongs to the popular four-slope, but it has a significant difference from the hip and half-hip. Here, all four diagonals converge at one point, which is the peak of the roof. The design can be flat or high. It depends on climatic features: the direction and strength of the wind, the amount of snow and the like. Since the roof is similar in structure to a tent, it got its name precisely because of this.

An important advantage is the absence of the need for the construction of gables. Thus, a significant amount of building materials and time can be saved, thereby spending less money on construction. Another advantage is the low risk of leakage. Due to the pyramidal structure, precipitation easily rolls off the roof without lingering. On the other hand, this shape of the roof contributes to its uniform heating, so in the summer months you can use the attic or attic as a living space without worrying about additional heating. Finally, here you can not equip a drainage system, since the water from the roof drains without hitting the walls, thanks to the wide overhangs.

There are some nuances. So, it is quite difficult to design a hipped roof on your own, since this implies a special structure of the truss system. It is also not easy to build a truss frame with your own hands: there are many connections that must be highly reliable and rigid. Thus, the need to hire specialists leads to the fact that a large amount of financial resources will be spent on construction. It must be borne in mind the fact that there is a high risk of delamination of the finishing material (for example, tiles or slate).

conical

A cone-shaped roof is often referred to as a round roof because it is made up of many facets, making it appear from afar that the base is round rather than polygonal. For typical cottages, this type of roof is not typical. The conical structure can be found above mansions or castles, and also as part of a roofing composition with a bay window. The cone-shaped pattern gives the building an interesting fairy-tale look, distinguishing it from all other houses.

The positive qualities of the design include its seismic resistance. Due to the many stiffening ribs, as well as the rounded shape, such a roof will withstand any wind and snow loads, as well as earthquakes or other similar disasters.

Unfortunately, such roofs have more disadvantages than advantages. So, you cannot make a window in the roof itself. This is due to its shape, tapering upwards, as well as aesthetics: windows in a cone-shaped design do not look very attractive, spoiling the whole view. Another disadvantage is connected with this - the inability to organize an attic, because the insufficient level of illumination is a significant drawback. Materials for construction will require much more than for other roofs. It is not only about the rafters, but also about the finishing roofing material. The design and construction itself is quite complex, so you will need to hire specialists with the necessary knowledge.

Attic

This name generalizes several options for roof structures at once, however, an important factor is the presence of an attic space under the roof. This is not about an ordinary attic space, but about a full-fledged attic. It has a number of requirements, one of the main ones is the height of the ceilings. Here it should be at least 2.5 m. The ceiling may be lower, however, lowered ceilings should occupy up to 50% of the total space.

The mansard roof can be laid both at the planning stage and after construction is completed. Of particular interest are residential attic rooms, which can be organized far from under all roofs. So, it is problematic to place one under a single-pitched or double-pitched structure, but all four-pitched roofs involve converting the attic into an attic in the future.

It is worth bearing in mind that some roofs do not necessarily need to be insulated right away. Sometimes it is possible to insulate and waterproof the roof from the inside, when the need arises.

Windows are another highlight. If the attic was taken into account at the planning stage, then there may be built-in windows in the roof, lying in the same plane with it or specially attached, similar to birdhouses. It is undesirable to do without windows completely, therefore it is advised to make windows there when converting the attic into an attic.

Keep in mind that roof windows are several times more expensive than ordinary ones, since they, along with the roof, must prevent water and drafts from entering the attic.

Complex

The roof of a complex structure is the most interesting, but it is also problematic to build it yourself. This is due to technical difficulties: you need to correctly calculate the load on the rafters, on the Mauerlat. If the calculations are carried out incorrectly, then there is a high risk of collapse of the roof or cracking of the walls.

As a rule, complex roofs are built in order to expand the useful area of \u200b\u200bthe house: under such a structure, you can place a full-fledged attic room, or even two. In this case, the roof is insulated and prepared in advance so that in the future you do not have to deal with it from the inside. A complex roof is not easy to process without being completely disassembled, as there are many joints, joints, corners.

The advantages of complex roofs include their attractive appearance. It is always possible to design a structure so that it is fully consistent with the surrounding landscape. Among the shortcomings in the first place is complexity. It is almost impossible to make such a roof on your own, so you will have to hire a team of professionals. In addition, an impressive amount of materials will be required both for the construction of the truss system and in order to cover the roof.

All the variety of types of roofs will allow you to choose the option that is ideal for your cottage or home. You need to calculate your budget and strength in advance, as well as pay attention to the environment - not every house will fit harmoniously. For example, a flat roof requires a modern landscape around, while a conical one requires as traditional as possible.

Preparation and tools

At the first stage, it is necessary to carry out all the preparatory work, prepare all the necessary materials and tools. The list can be called standard. So, you will need mastic and sealant, end and cornice strips, a construction knife, a trowel, a hammer and a roofing mop. All these tools are suitable for laying a soft roof, because it is this type that can be mounted alone.

First you need to strengthen the existing truss system. If you do it yourself, it is recommended that you familiarize yourself with the design features of the form you have chosen. In the vast majority of cases, the truss frame is assembled on the ground, after which it moves up and is attached to the Mauerlat. For strengthening, you can use plywood, OSB-boards or tongue-and-groove boards. Please note that plywood is not suitable if the attic or attic space is residential, since the material is highly flammable and releases toxic substances when heated.

It is better not to work in winter. If it turned out that the installation is carried out in the winter, then do not forget to leave expansion gaps of 3-5 mm between the seams so that the layers do not deform during expansion. In addition, you need to thoroughly treat all wooden parts with an antiseptic to prevent the appearance of microorganisms or mold fungi .

Such processing will significantly delay the possible rotting of the rafters, especially if you do not do the waterproofing correctly.

To build a truly high-quality roof, you need to follow some recommendations:

When transporting materials intended for roofing, make sure that they do not bend, do not deform. This is especially true for easily bending options, such as corrugated board.
If possible refuse mechanical loading, since rigid slings are capable of deforming some materials. Use soft slings or the manual method.
Don't forget about drainage. It is necessary to decide in advance whether the internal drain will be designed or external. The design of the roof directly depends on this. For example, choosing a flat option, you need to make a small slope to the outer edges with an open gutter system or a small depression in the center with internal water drainage.

When working with each of the finishing materials its specificity must be taken into account. For example, metal tiles or corrugated boards are attached to the roof with dowels in places where the wave deflects, while soft materials can be attached anywhere.
All laying work is done from top to bottom. This applies to both the reinforcing layer and the finish. It is necessary to attach one sheet at a time, they are also transported up one by one.
Finishing the ridge is done last. The material here must be overlapped to avoid moisture penetration in the future. It is the ridge connections that are the most vulnerable place for water.

Sequence of work

It should be remembered that everything starts with design. It is the plan that is the fundamental condition that allows you to rebuild a truly high-quality and beautiful roof in the future. So, it is necessary to clarify the dimensions of the roof, its height, the presence of windows, as well as the orientation of the roof. Remember that the orientation in relation to the cardinal points is chosen depending on the prevailing wind direction. The project must be drawn up according to all the rules, so that in the future you can avoid unpleasant surprises in the process of both construction and operation.

If necessary, before starting work, it is necessary to install a reinforcing belt. It will slightly strengthen the walls and Mauerlat, thereby removing part of the load from them, and it will be possible to choose a heavier roof.

Reinforcement is relevant for not the most durable houses, for example, frame houses.

Check and process all available materials and tools. If something is missing, it is much easier to add to the list at the preparation stage than after the work itself has begun. Check materials for integrity and suitability. If there is any doubt about the quality, it is best to replace the part. How warm and comfortable it will be in the house largely depends on the reliability and tightness of the roof, so it is important that everything is of good quality.

After all the preparations are completed, you can proceed directly to the construction. Step by step instructions are given below.

Erection: technology

The easiest to build is a gable design. It is more often than others made by hand, without resorting to the help of professional craftsmen, so it makes sense to consider it.

Rafters can be hanging or layered. In the first case, the rafters rest against the side walls, as if serving as spacers, as a result of which the impact is enhanced. To relieve the load, the rafters are additionally interconnected by an additional beam, called a puff. This helps reduce stress.

The layered version assumes the presence of a load-bearing wall in the middle. Above it, another overlap is created, to which the side slopes lean. It turns out that the load is distributed evenly between all three walls. However, the most common case is a combined case, when part of the structure is layered, and part is hanging.

Please note that the rafter system is completely assembled on the ground, and only then it is installed in its rightful place. The rafters are attached to the Mauerlat, securely fixed (usually with metal brackets). First, the extreme elements are attached, and then the intermediate ones. After the main elements (legs) are securely installed, you can attach everything else.

Protective layers: laying order

The lining layer must be made in full accordance with the specified sequence. Failure to comply with the order leads to the fact that the roof will leak, let in heat and drafts, and the rafters will rot.

Under the rafters there must be a high-quality vapor barrier. An ordinary vapor barrier film is suitable, which will not allow condensate to fall on the insulation and wooden parts.
Next fit directly rafters.
Next, put a heater. Please note that it is much more convenient to work with insulation in slabs, since it can simply be laid between the rafters without fixing it, and it will hold securely. Consider also the use of foam insulation, which is the best in terms of its heat-retaining properties.

A layer of waterproofing is placed on the insulation. Experts recommend using a new material - a waterproofing membrane. It will protect against moisture, while not retaining the condensate formed due to the collision of hot and cold air. The membrane is attached to the rafters with battens.
Lay on top of the lathing roofing material.

Please note that with self-assembly, the need to use high-quality materials increases many times over, so that in which case it is possible to level the consequences of minor errors. As for the insulation, pay attention to mineral wool, but do not use glass wool if a living room is planned under the roof.

Finish coat

A huge variety of materials can be used as a finishing roofing. Today, there are many forms and types: some are suitable for warm climates, others for more severe ones; some can be mounted manually, for others you will definitely need to use special equipment. However, each of the popular options has its own individual advantages and disadvantages.

All materials for roofing are divided into two large types: soft and hard. In the first case, they are easy to bend, adjusting to the desired shape. In the second case, the material is made in the form of panels, which are subsequently lifted one by one and mounted on the roof in their original form. Both of them can be cut, only for soft materials they use a construction knife, and for hard ones - a hacksaw.

Before you cover the roof, you need to decide which type is most suitable for you. Keep in mind that when working alone it is best to use soft varieties, while pair or team work allows you to easily transport large panels to the top without damaging them. In both the first and second cases, it is better to prefer machine transportation: there is less risk of accidentally damaging the sheet, dropping it, or splitting it. We remind you once again that it is better to choose soft cables, as they will not press on the roof slabs and will not scratch them.

Types of roofing materials

As mentioned above, roofing materials are divided into two broad categories. The most common is shingles, which are soft materials. A big plus of this option is that it is suitable for all types of roofs, including even complex and cone-shaped ones. When laying, you will not need any professional tools - you can get by with the set of tools that every owner has.

With regard to performance, soft bituminous tiles have established themselves as a reliable material that can withstand pressure drops, exposure to precipitation and sunlight, and also has excellent decorative properties.

Slate is popular among sheet materials. Despite the fact that it is fragile and easily cracks under strong impacts, it withstands environmental influences perfectly. It is also important that slate is quite inexpensive, so it is chosen when building country houses or with a limited budget. It should be borne in mind that the heat and sound insulation qualities of slate leave much to be desired, therefore, if possible, for a house in which they will live year-round, it is better to choose a more modern analogue.

Finally, the most worthy and at the same time expensive material is a metal tile. She greatly wins against the background of others in terms of aesthetic indicators. Such a roof will look expensive and presentable, while the material will not lose its properties for many years. A metal tile can last about fifteen years, while maintaining its original appearance. Unfortunately, there is one drawback here - poor sound insulation, so it is advisable to take care of this additionally.

Mounting methods

It would seem that the finish coating can only be attached with dowels or self-tapping screws, but in reality it turns out that these methods have to be abandoned. This is especially true for soft roofs. So, soft roofing materials are usually fastened by the fusing method, also called the hot method. This approach ensures complete tightness, but many problems arise in the process.

For example, environmental conditions are a common cause of poor attachment, such as being too humid, too hot, or too windy. It is also important what characteristics the roofing material itself has.

To ensure the maximum quality of work, they are carried out mechanically.

When choosing a screw fastening, care must be taken to guarantee tightness at the puncture points. To do this, use specialized grout. Some particularly resourceful owners choose mounting foam, but professionals strongly do not recommend sticking to this method, since the foam is absolutely not intended for this, and the roof will leak soon.

Regardless of which method you choose, pay attention to the uniformity of fixing materials: with the hot method, the seams should be even and beautiful, and when using screws, each of them must be carefully sealed. Such precautions will save you from an early repair.

Decking

The professional flooring is sheet material. With its wavy structure, it looks like slate, but this is where all the similarities end. The professional flooring belongs to metal materials. The sheet is fully processed, pasted over with a variety of layers that prevent the occurrence of corrosion.

For roofing, special corrugated sheets are used, which are a modern analogue of iron roofs so popular in the past. Separately, it should be noted that corrugated board is ideal for pitched roofs, but for complex round structures it is undesirable to use it.

The material has both its advantages and disadvantages, which should be discussed in more detail. It should be noted in advance that there are many more advantages.

Advantages and disadvantages

The main reason why many choose corrugated board is its cost. It is quite low in comparison with analogues, however, corrugated board is not inferior in terms of operational properties. Another plus is the abundance of color solutions: in the product line you can find almost any shade. The most popular are brown, dark green, burgundy, gray. The corrugated roof does not burn, does not emit toxic substances into the atmosphere, which is why it is considered environmentally friendly. The service life is also impressive: such a roof can last up to 50 years, depending on the class of the material.

As for the shortcomings, they are few. Many are alarmed by the simplicity of the material: it does not seem particularly interesting.

Another drawback is poor sound insulation: rain drumming on such a roof will spread like thunder throughout the house - you will need to spend additional funds on insulation and soundproofing work.

Characteristics and features

The arrangement of the roof of corrugated board takes very little time and effort. No wonder this material is considered one of the easiest to install. To carry out the installation correctly, you need to remember some of the nuances:

It is best to select sheets of corrugated board that fully match the size of the roof slope. Then it will be possible to close it without resorting to joining elements.
If it was not possible to select panels according to the size of the slope, they resort to joining short elements: the sheets are overlapped by 15–20 cm, fastening them with self-tapping screws at each such joint. Silicone sealant is suitable for insulation.

Can an ordinary home master build the roof of a house with his own hands? At first glance, the task seems rather complicated, but after practicing at my own dacha, I realized that everything is real. I will show you step by step and tell you how to make a roof with your own hands, what components it consists of and what roofs are in general in private houses.

Briefly about the types of roofs and general terminology

Before making a roof, you need to figure out what structures exist and what their main elements are called. Otherwise, you will not understand anything in the specialized literature, plus it will be difficult for you to talk with sellers in a store or market.

Which design is better to stay

Roof types	Short description
	Shed. The easiest, most affordable and economical option in terms of materials. The problem is that it is not suitable for medium and large houses. Most often, a shed roof is mounted on garages, sheds and other outbuildings.
	gable or tongs. A traditional and rather comfortable design that fits any home with a rectangular or square "box". Now more than half of the owners of private houses and cottages choose a gable roof.
	Shatrovaya. The hipped roof looks like a tetrahedral pyramid, consisting of isosceles triangles with a common apex. Now it is rare, the main reason lies in the complexity of the beam-pulling system on which this design is based.
	Chetyrekhskatnaya or hip. This design is also based on the beam-tightening system, but is more common than the hipped one. Fans of these types of roofs should not be taken.
	Half hip. In the classic version, the half-hip roof is no longer used. The structure is assembled according to a gable truss scheme using puffs and “fillies” bent upwards.
	Mnogoskatnaya. Of all the existing multi-pitched roof is considered one of the most complex structures. It is installed only on buildings with an "original" layout or houses with several extensions. Only highly qualified professionals can work with such roofs.
	Attic. This type of roof is only slightly inferior in popularity to the gable structure. People are attracted to living attic space. You can build a mansard roof with your own hands, but you need some experience, so it's better to start with a gable roof.

After analyzing the popular types of structures, I realized that for an amateur, the best solution would be to install a gable roof.

General terminology

Ribs- all external corners and bends, except for the upper edge, are called ribs;
Valva- front plane in a multi-pitched roof;
endova- internal angle between adjacent planes on roofs with several slopes;
Skate- the upper edge of the roof, on which the slopes converge. There is no ridge on the tent and single-slope structure;
dormer window- a small triangular or spherical cut into the roof slope with a window frame inside. It is mounted more for decoration, there is little functional load on the dormer window. Fans of such designs are better off not messing with;
Eaves overhang- this is a cut of the lower part of the roof, more precisely, everything that is outside the wall. It is to the edge of the cornice that rain drains are attached;
Gable- a vertical sector on the facade of the building located between the slopes of the roof;
Gable overhang- lateral inclined cut of the roof plane.

Now let's figure out what the internal structures of the roof are called.

Mauerlat- a support beam that is mounted on the walls around the perimeter of the box of the house, it can also be called the foundation of the roof. The cross section depends on the weight of the roof and the dimensions of the house, most often it ranges from 100x100 mm to 200x200 mm;
rafter legs- perhaps the main structural element, the entire roof rests on them. In a gable roof, they are joined at an angle and form a stable isosceles triangle. For medium houses, beams of 50x150 mm are taken, and in large houses 100x150 mm or 100x200 mm;
Rack- a vertical beam supporting the rafter legs. Can be based on ceiling beams or beds;
lying down- this is a kind of Mauerlat, only the beds are installed not around the perimeter of the box, but on the walls of a large house. These elements are used only in the "layered" system, which I will mention later;
puff or crossbar - a horizontal beam that connects two adjacent rafter legs of a gable roof and forms an isosceles triangle with them, thereby increasing the strength of the entire structure;
Run- mounted in the case when puffs are not installed on all rafter pairs. Runs are needed for additional support for rafter legs and forest savings;
ridge beam- (it is not indicated on this diagram) is mounted horizontally and installed at the top of the gable roof directly under the connection of the rafter legs or between the rafter legs.

Preparation and installation of a gable structure

At the preparation stage, you make a calculation of the truss system, draw a sketch or drawing, and then purchase the material and prepare the tool.

Roof calculation

The first thing you need to know is the angle of the roof plane. All pitched systems are divided into 3 types:

Flat roofs - in them the angle of inclination does not exceed 5º. Almost never found in residential buildings;
Roofs with an average slope - here the slope should be from 5º to 30º. Well suited for steppe regions where there are strong winds and little snow;
Roofs with a steep slope - these include all slopes with a slope of more than 30º. These roofs are placed in areas with snowy winters, because the steeper the slope, the faster the snow will come off it.

As for the calculations themselves, here it is necessary to divide the height of the roof from the attic floor to the ridge, by half the length of the span along the horizon. If you want to get the value as a percentage, then multiply the result by 100%.

Illustration	The difference between a layered system and a suspended one
	suspension system. The rafters in this system are installed only on the Mauerlat between the bearing walls. If the rafters are supported by racks, then the racks are attached to the ceiling beams.
	Layered system. This system differs from the suspended one in that the racks supporting the rafters are based both on the load-bearing walls and on the walls inside the house.

Tools and materials

From the tool you will need:

Axe;
Hand saw wood and metal;
Chainsaw or an electric saw;
A hammer;
Plane;
Drill;
screwdriver;
Open end wrench set.
Roulette, level, plumb.

It is advisable to knock down at least 1 stand from the boards for working at height, popularly referred to as the "goat".

Materials:

Beam under rafter legs- the most common section is 50x150 mm;
Beam under Mauerlat- you can take a solid beam or assemble it from the material under the rafter legs. In both cases, the price is about the same;
Beam under puffs, runs and racks- I took a bar 50x50 mm, but you can use a rafter beam 50x150 mm;
Bars for counter battens- standard section 30x40 mm;
Board for roofing lathing- it is selected for roofing material, the most common option is unedged board;
metal studs with thread and nuts to them - section 12–14 mm;
Mounting brackets and plates- sold ready-made with holes for self-tapping screws;
self-tapping screws
Nails- in assortment starting from length 50 mm and more;
Metal staples- are made of reinforcement or rolled products with a thickness of 10 mm or more.

Mauerlat installation

Illustrations	Operating procedure
	Arrangement of a block base. If the house is block (brick, cinder block), then under the Mauerlat you need to pour a concrete reinforced belt over the wall. The height of the belt is 250–300 mm, the width of the belt is equal to the thickness of the wall. You make a wooden formwork, lay a reinforcing cage inside and fill everything with concrete.
	Stud bookmark. Even before pouring concrete, it is necessary to vertically install a number of threaded studs or simply pieces of reinforcement in the center of the future strapping with a step of 0.6–1 m. Mauerlat will then be attached to them. In houses made of aerated concrete, a concrete reinforced belt is poured directly into the U-shaped shaped gas blocks.
	Mauerlat in a wooden house. There is no Mauerlat as such in wooden houses; its function is performed by a beam or a log of the upper trim.
	Aligning the base. Under the Mauerlat, the base should be perfectly flat, if at first you missed this moment, then you will need to level it before laying. The base can be leveled with a cement-sand mortar or glue for gas blocks (glue is used in houses made of aerated concrete).
	We equip waterproofing. The beam should not be in direct contact with concrete, therefore, before laying the Mauerlat, we cover the roofing material on top, preferably in 2 layers.
	Beam installation. We drill holes in the Mauerlat for the studs embedded in the wall, put the beam on the studs and pull it to the wall. Be sure to place a wide washer on top and lock the mount. A solid beam is joined into half a tree, that is, make a cutout as in the photo, join two sectors and drive 5–7 long screws or nails on top. If the Mauerlat is recruited from rafter bars, then they are simply stacked apart and fastened with self-tapping screws.
	Mauerlat. There are cases when the Mauerlat is assembled from pieces laid between the floor beams, but the strength of this design is much lower, plus you will need 2 times more anchors for fastening.
	Wood processing. Absolutely all the wood that goes to the construction of the roof must be treated at least 2 times with antiseptics and flame retardants, otherwise the roof will stand for no more than 10-15 years, then it will be eaten by bugs.
	Wood moisture. It is impossible to make a roof from a freshly sawn forest, in the process of drying under load, beams and boards can lead or they will begin to crack. To reduce costs, you can take freshly cut wood in advance and stack it under a canopy, the wood will dry out during the season, the laying order is shown in the diagram on the left.

Installation of the truss structure

Illustrations	Operating procedure
	Installing the end rafters. The first are 2 triangles at the edges. To keep them from wobbling, I reinforced both triangles with a temporary stand and a diagonal brace. In addition, I also fixed the temporary vertical rack with two boards diagonally.
	Starting mounts for rafters. On the Mauerlat, I installed and secured bars of 50x150 mm with metal corners. The bars are cut at an angle of inclination of the roof. Please note: the corners are attached to 8 self-tapping screws (4x4) and are installed only on one, outer side.
	Fixing rafters from below. As the rafter legs are installed, the base of the beam is clamped with the same stop and fastened with self-tapping screws. Later, in addition to self-tapping screws, I plan to tighten this entire structure with a 12 mm through stud.
	Additional fixation. In principle, such fasteners are enough, but to be sure, I decided to support the rafter leg with triangles from below.
	On the extreme rafter triangles, I put 2 metal corners from the inside. A metal plate is screwed on the outside, and then the pediment will be sheathed on top with a 25 mm board and siding.
	Gain. In addition, 1 m from the Mauerlat to the extreme rafters, I fixed additional support racks.
	ridge beam. From above, I launched a ridge beam, for this I fixed 2 puffs (crossbars) with a gap of 150 mm on the rafters, inserted a beam between them and fixed it with metal corners on self-tapping screws.
	Building. The ridge beam came out longer than the rafter leg, so it had to be increased. I attached 2 linings from the same beam on the sides and pulled it all off on both sides with 12 mm studs.
	Fixing rafters from above. My rafters turned out to be 6 m each, and the entire span was 7 m wide. At the top point, the load is solid, especially in the extreme triangles, so I cut out the lining from a 5 mm thick steel sheet, drilled them and pulled them together with five studs.
	Fastening puffs(crossbars). Intermediate crossbars on the extreme rafter triangles are inserted inward and fixed with metal plates on both sides.
	Hairpins. All other rafter triangles are fastened with two puffs (one puff on each side). On the rafters, the puffs are fixed with two studs and four self-tapping screws.
	We pull the cord. After the final installation of the extreme rafter triangles, a cord is pulled between them. This landmark will help us set all the other rafters in the same plane.
	Planting rafters. In my case, each rafter at the connection point with the Mauerlat was cut, as shown in the photo. But this is not the only option for connecting the rafter leg to the Mauerlat.
	Rafter landing options. Option A - the rafter leg, as it were, wraps around the Mauerlat; Option B - not only the rafter leg is cut, but also the Mauerlat itself; Option B - the rafter leg is cut at an angle, but so that the cutout does not slip, stops are still attached to the beam on both sides; Option D is the same as option C, only in it the rafter leg is not cut off near the mauerlat, but continues for at least another half a meter and you get a ready-made cornice overhang. There are also gashes with a “tooth”, but they need experience and special tools.
	Docking in a wooden house. In a wooden house, the rafters cannot be rigidly attached to the Mauerlat, they will warp when shrinking. For fixing, a floating mount is used here, the photo on the left shows how it works.
	Filly. My cornice overhang turned out to be a continuation of the rafters. If the length of the rafters is not enough, then they rest against the Mauerlat or extended floor beams, and the cornice overhang is increased by the so-called "fillies". Usually these are bars with a section of 50x100 mm, which are attached to the rafters with self-tapping screws. Each such bar should overlap the rafters for at least half a meter and hang over the wall for the same distance.
	truss system. The assembly of the truss system is over, now I will show you how to properly mount the roof sheathing.

Roof installation rules

Illustrations	Operating procedure
	We mount a drip. The first to be mounted on the edge of the gable overhang is a “dropper” - a corner made of a thin metal sheet, which is needed to seal the cut. To do this, I cut niches in the rafters and stuff a 25x150 mm board into them on both sides, so that I get an angle. A dropper is attached to this outer corner with self-tapping screws.
	Barrier for thermal insulation. A barrier is inserted and fixed between the rafters parallel to the wall, it will not allow the internal roofing thermal insulation to slide down. I made the barrier from a board 25x150 mm. The board is attached at 3 points to self-tapping screws, along the edges to the rafters and below to the Mauerlat. Self-tapping screws are driven at an angle.
	We glue the tape. In order for the waterproofing membrane to fit snugly against the drip, I first glue the “K2” butyl rubber tape on the edge, and glue double-sided tape on it.
Membrane laying. On the sides, the membrane should extend beyond the wall by 15 cm; The membrane is rolled out horizontally; The lower edge of the membrane is glued to double-sided tape; The canvas itself is attached to the rafters with a stapler.
	Control grille. As soon as one strip of the membrane is fixed, we begin to fasten the counter-lattice. I used a 30x40 mm bar and screwed it to the rafters with 80x5 mm self-tapping screws. It is desirable that all self-tapping screws be with a stainless coating.
	Seal. At the bottom of the bars of the counter-lattice, I glued strips of cross-linked polyethylene 3 mm thick, on one side this tape has an adhesive layer. With such a seal, the bar holds the membrane along the entire line of contact, moisture cannot penetrate under the bar, plus the staples from the stapler are closed.
	Lathing fastening. The step of the outer crate depends on what type of roof you have, in my case a metal tile will be mounted, so I fill the board with a step of 300 mm. Board thickness 20–25 mm. The next strip of the membrane is rolled out and attached to the previous one. Marks are visible in the photo, the edge of the next tape will pass along these marks. Plus, the joint is glued with double-sided tape. I fastened the outer crate with 100x5 mm self-tapping screws and additionally nailed 120 mm with nails.
	Ridge waterproofing. When waterproofing the ridge, the membrane must be wound in a single sheet under the counter-lattice. I did an overlap of 350 mm on each side, according to the rules, 200 mm is enough.
	Chimney. It is advisable to remove the chimney even before you begin to install the waterproofing, so it will be convenient for you to bypass it.
	Finished roof. I decided to make the roof of the house out of metal tiles. One of the standard sizes of a metal tile sheet is 6 m, just under this size, I made rafters. You can choose any other type of roof, by the way, the most affordable option is slate, but it will have to be changed in 10-15 years.
	Warming. You can insulate the roof in different ways, I laid dense slabs of mineral wool between the beams, and sewed everything up with a layer of vapor barrier on top and stuffed the lining. Instead of cotton wool, foam boards can be used, but this insulation does not let air through. But keep in mind, you need to take exactly mineral wool slabs. Soft mats will “sit down” and in 5–7 years will become like a thin blanket.

Conclusion

Perhaps the detailed instructions that I wrote above are not ideal, but I succeeded, which means that you will succeed too. The video in this article will help you understand this topic in more detail. If you have any questions, write in the comments, such a discussion will benefit everyone.