Is it possible to lay (lay) a laminate on linoleum - a review of the master. Is it possible to put laminate on linoleum What kind of substrate is better for laminate on linoleum

Hello. I want to get a detailed answer to the question of laying laminate on linoleum. We have an old linoleum coating on a concrete base, but because of this, the floor is cold, it is especially felt in winter. I plan to lay a cork underlay for warmth, and thicker laminated parquet on it. Is it necessary to remove the old flooring or is it still not worth touching it and mounting the laminate on top of the linoleum?

Answer

Good afternoon! According to the instructions developed more than 10 years ago by the manufacturers of laminated parquet, the installation of a "floating" adhesive-free coating is allowed on the following types of substrates:

Cement-sand screed, anhydrite, magnesite and other types of mineral monoliths;
concrete slab;
Edged board flooring with humidity up to 12%;
Prefabricated dry-type screed, made of moisture-resistant sheet materials for the floor (plywood, chipboard, OSB, GVL, DSP, LSU, etc.);

Some European manufacturers producing high-quality high-density products (at least 850 kg / m³) separately indicate that it is possible to lay laminate on linoleum, but with special reservations:

The thickness of the finish coating should be at least 8 mm, and the cross section of the old linoleum flooring should not exceed 1-1.5 mm.
Linoleum flooring must be dense, glued according to all the rules.
The surface must be intact (without any damage) and absolutely even, that is, without differences in dents and other defects. Remember that according to the requirements of SP 29.13330.2011 / SNiP 2.03.13-88, the carrier layer for a laminated coating must be not only dry, strong and clean, but also as even as possible. Maximum allowable difference - up to 2 mm for every 2 linear meters

NEVER attempt to compensate for differences or voids under the coating with an underlayment of extruded polystyrene foam, polyethylene foam, cork or any other material. The base must be hard and rigid, and the soft layer creates a backlash, due to which the planks and interlocks are damaged.

With products of lower density produced in China, Brazil, Russia and some other countries, we recommend not to conduct such risky experiments. Laying such a laminate on old linoleum in combination with the substrate will lead to unpleasant squeaks, rapid abrasion of the surface at the joints and in places of frequent use, and damage to the locks.

If you want to get a really high-quality floor that can last 15-25 years guaranteed by the manufacturer, then it’s better not to risk it, but:

Completely remove the old linoleum flooring.
Clean the surface of adhesive or mastic residues, if necessary, carry out a partial repair of the base or form a new layer of the subfloor.

Laying technology

Regardless of the class of coating, its dimensions and other physical and technical indicators, do-it-yourself laying of laminate on linoleum is carried out in 3 stages:

Subfloor preparation

First of all, check the compliance of climatic conditions with the requirements of manufacturers:

Base temperature: 15-27 ºС (floor heating is turned off 3-85 days before the start of work);
Air temperature: 18-24 ºС;
Relative air humidity: 40-70%.

The next step is to check the subfloor for evenness using a 2-meter rail or rule, as well as to eliminate all existing defects (holes, torn sections) using putties or repair quick-drying mixtures. Do not forget to clean the surface of debris, dust, degrease.

Many craftsmen additionally cover the floor with a substrate 1-2 mm thick. In fact, this is not necessary, because linoleum acts as a waterproofing and damping layer between the base and the finish.

Assembling the laminate flooring

Laying starts from the far corner along the longest wall. The first lamella is installed in such a way that there is a gap of 8-10 mm between it and the vertical enclosing structure. For this, it is better to use special spacer wedges. Produced in the selected direction sequentially from the longest of the walls.

The second and subsequent strips are applied to the narrow end of the previous one, snapped into place without shift. When the row is ready, you can move on to the next one, which already starts with trimming at least 30 cm long. The slats must be carefully attached to the elements of the first row at an angle or (if the lock allows) with a horizontal shift and fixed along the long side.

The width of the last row must be at least 5 cm. The planks should be cut if necessary, placed in the remaining gap and pulled to the rest of the leaf with a z-shaped mounting bracket.

Installation of decorative moldings

Spacer wedges are removed along the perimeter of the room and skirting boards are mounted using self-tapping screws or clamps. Lastly, decorative linings on pipes and thresholds are installed.

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Linoleum is quite practical and durable flooring, but sometimes its misuse or incorrect location leads to surface damage and then you have to face the issue of floor repair. There are two ways to solve this problem, the first is to tear off the old linoleum and lay a new one, the second is to lay a new floor covering on top of the old linoleum. The ideal choice in this case would be a laminate, due to its versatile performance characteristics. So, let's figure out whether it is possible to put a laminate on linoleum and how to do it.

Preparatory procedures

In general, laminate flooring can be laid on tiles, concrete, chipboard, wooden floors, and linoleum. In the latter case, additional sound and heat insulation is an integral parameter of the future laminate flooring.

It is better to entrust the flooring of any kind of floors, and especially laminate flooring, to a specialist, but if you are confident in yourself and your abilities, then you should follow some algorithm for solving this problem.

The minimum set of tools for laying laminate

Before laying laminate flooring just delivered from the store, it is necessary to allow it to go through the “acclimatization” process within 3-4 days. Thus, being in the conditions under which it will be further operated, the laminate will acquire the same humidity and temperature as the working room. Also an important point at the initial stage is to inspect the uniformity of the color and pattern of the panels, check the availability of the necessary working tool and additional component materials.

In addition, you need to make sure that the floor is even. Its surface should be smooth, and the irregularities, if any, insignificant, the difference should be within 3 mm. Linoleum on top of which the laminate will be laid must be firmly and efficiently attached to the floor and meet the requirements for the bases. In other words, linoleum under the laminate should be characterized by such parameters as integrity, dryness, cleanliness, humidity should not exceed the humidity of the room. If the linoleum has any damage, they should be repaired in order to avoid future creaking of the laminated coating created.

In addition, it is undesirable to lay a laminate on linoleum of excessive softness, since the already assembled floor may be in danger of subsidence and distortion, which will eventually lead to unplanned repair of the floors.

Attention! If the linoleum coating is very dilapidated, then there is a possibility that in the future it may swell and disrupt not only the aesthetic appearance of the flooring, but also spoil it mechanically. In order to avoid such problems, linoleum should be covered with a layer of a special substrate with a thickness of at least 3 mm. It can be made of expanded polystyrene, foamed polyethylene foam and, which, by the way, is the best option. To increase the waterproofing of the floor, it is worth using composite materials consisting of two layers of sufficiently strong and dense polyethylene, which are laid with a layer of polystyrene. The substrate performs the function of a kind of "shock absorber", the absence of which in a year will lead to the appearance of cracks and pimples on the floor covering.

Rules for laying laminate on the old floor

The installation of laminate on linoleum is carried out according to a special technology, from the correctness and accuracy, the observance of which depends on the duration of the service life of the laminate flooring. It is necessary to produce laminate flooring in such a way that the butt seams are almost invisible. To comply with this condition, laying must begin from the window, and perpendicular to it, that is, as a result, the light from the window will fall along the panels and hide the seams.

The flooring should start with two boards from the first row. To ensure a gap between the wall and the laminate, special spacer wedges should be installed, which will provide a gap of 10 mm. This gap is called deformation and it allows the floor to “walk”, so to speak, that is, expand and narrow with changes in humidity and temperature in the room. The installation of the laminate is carried out with a lock on itself, which will facilitate the adhesion of the panels and speed up the process.

After laying the first row, at the end it is necessary to trim the so-called short panel. If the size of the cut section of the panel exceeds 500 mm, then the second row of decking can be started from it, which will minimize waste as much as possible. But do not forget that the end joints of laminated panels in adjacent rows should be located at a distance of at least 300 mm. Due to this, the pressure that appears during moisture deformation will be evenly distributed over the surface of the floor covering.

If there is a pipe in the way of the flooring, then it is necessary to cut a semicircle between the laminate and the pipe with an electric jigsaw or an electric drill with a special nozzle, and leave a small gap, which can later be hidden with a special plastic lining that matches the color as much as possible.

After the first row of flooring is assembled against the wall, the second row should be laid, while the angle of application of the second row of boards to the adjacent panel should be 45 °. They are inserted into the lock and when lowered down they snap into place, which indicates that the rows are fixed to each other. The four connected panels of the first two rows are the base for the upcoming installation. Previously installed expansion wedges should not be removed, as they are still needed to create a deformation gap. Laying the last panel is carried out using the so-called clamp, which will help keep the final panel in a stationary state.

The skirting board for the laminate should be as close as possible in color, or be a tone darker - it depends on your taste preferences.

Laying a laminated coating on linoleum is completed with the most suitable color, they are necessary to prevent moisture and dirt from entering the deformation gap between the laminate and the wall. The most optimal and practical option are skirting boards, which have special channels for hiding electrical wires, telephone wires or television cables in them.

To mask the joints of the laminated coating between rooms, special thresholds with a width of more than 3 mm are usually used. If it is planned to replace the door frame, then it is better to mount it after laying the laminate, but if the hatches were installed before the floor was laid, then at the bottom of the box it is necessary to make a small notch into which the panel will enter. This procedure will avoid rigid fastening of the panels adjacent to the door frame and their further deformation.

As the saying goes, it's better to see once than hear a hundred times:

Advantages of laminate flooring

The price of a laminated panel directly depends on the presence of natural wood in its composition, which makes the laminate not only an aesthetic floor covering, but also environmentally friendly. While most laminate flooring models mimic natural wood, the style can be repurposed so that the new floor is as close to granite or marble tile as possible.

In addition to a wide variety of styles and colors, laminate flooring has a number of other advantages:

Strength. Laminate coatings are excellent at resisting constant and variable high loads and forces.
Wear resistance. Under the influence of direct sunlight, laminated panels do not fade, do not dry out and do not lose their strength, and are not erased during operation.
The simplicity and ease of installation of the laminate allows even independently, without the help of a specialist, to lay out a laminate flooring.
No need for additional grinding and sanding of panels, as well as covering them with a layer of protective varnish.
Eco-friendly, hygienic and clean. All known stubborn stains from ink, wine, nail polish, etc. are easily removed from the laminate surface. These qualities are provided by a special protective layer that does not allow the surface to absorb harmful substances from the environment.

By the way, laying laminate on linoleum is relevant not only in case of damage to linoleum. Some experts specifically lay a layer of linoleum under the laminated floor, which provides additional hydro, sound and heat insulation. But in both cases, it is necessary to follow all the laying rules in order to get a perfectly even and durable floor.

How to use and care for laminate flooring

No matter how well the laminate is laid on the old linoleum, you need to know the basic rules for operation and maintenance that will help keep your floor for many years. First of all, in order for the texture of the pattern not to be disturbed, you should very carefully move furniture and other heavy things along the floor surface.

This rule does not only apply to a sofa, wardrobe or armchair, it also applies to chairs, a coffee table and even a working chair on wheels, all these types of furniture can ruin the surface, which will shorten the life of the flooring. In addition to furniture, one of the worst enemies of all types of laminate flooring is shoes with heels. Walking on the laminate can not only scratch it, but also slip on it yourself, which is fraught with serious injuries. Also, the laminate does not tolerate the fall of piercing, cutting and breaking objects on it, for example, a dropped knife, fork or mug will immediately damage it.

Naturally, when cleaning, it is necessary to use special detergents, and here it is better not to waste time on trifles, since low-quality cheap products will not only not help clean the floor, but, on the contrary, will ruin it irrevocably. When washing the floor, the main thing is not to overdo it with water. It is best to wipe the laminate with a slightly damp cloth - this is quite enough. If you want to achieve perfect cleanliness, clean with a special water washing vacuum cleaner with a soft non-scratch nozzle.

By following these simple rules, you can successfully operate the laminate for many years. But first, it must be correctly and technologically laid on top of linoleum. It is not difficult to do this, because everything ingenious is accessible and simple.

When planning home renovations, homeowners often look for ways to save money. To some extent, this article is devoted to this. Can you put laminate on linoleum? To answer the question, you should figure out what consequences will await as a result of laying the laminate on the old linoleum:

how will the old coating behave under the laminate;
how will the old base affect the service life of the lamellas;
whether there will be problems with the locking connections of individual boards.

It must be remembered that linoleum is a rolled material with a synthetic wear-resistant coating and a felt base, which has the function of insulation and sound absorption.

Linoleum does not lose its consumer properties if lamellas are laid on top of it, but unpleasant situations may arise during the operation of such a puff structure. So, for example, given that the vinyl coating of linoleum does not allow moisture to pass through, if water enters the lower part of the “pie”, foci of decay, mold and fungus may appear.

We will analyze situations when it is possible to lay a laminate on linoleum, and when it is impossible.

When can you lay laminate on linoleum?

To determine whether it is possible to put a laminate on linoleum, you need to know the basic requirements for the base device for this type of flooring. In order for the laminate to serve the prescribed period, the following conditions must be observed:

the level of humidity of the base under the laminate should not be higher than 2%;
deviations in the height of the screed should not be more than 2 mm within one square meter. Minor deviations are eliminated by the substrate. If linoleum acts as the basis, its surface must also meet these requirements. In some cases, it is permissible to use a substrate to level the linoleum base, but this method of eliminating height differences is only suitable if the linoleum does not have felt insulation. Otherwise, an excessively soft base will cause the lamella locks to break;
when checking the base for the laminate, the slope of the surface is taken into account. This indicator should not be more than 4 mm for every 2000 mm along the length of the room. To determine whether the base surface meets the stated requirements, a long rule with a horizontal level is used. You need to check even the most even, at first glance, surfaces.

In cases where all of the above requirements are met and no maximum deviations are found, it is possible to lay a laminate on linoleum.

No code

Is it possible to lay laminate on linoleum if the latter is damaged? If these are small holes that do not have a noticeable effect on the height difference of the base, then such damage is not critical. But if through holes, deep cuts, bubbles are found on the surface of the coating, the idea to save on the standard preparation of the base for the laminate will have to be abandoned.

Also, do not use linoleum as a base for a laminate if peeling of the insulating felt is found.

Solution Benefits

Using old linoleum as the basis for lamella flooring has the following advantages:

the terms of repair in the apartment are noticeably reduced. The new floor is laid on the old base, which allows you to bypass the preparatory process of leveling the surface;
the old coating allows you to save on the purchase of a substrate;
the base in the form of old linoleum gives a tangible effect of heat saving in the room. Vinyl flooring with felt insulation is a better barrier to cold air than conventional types of substrates;
one of the disadvantages of the laminate - low sound insulation, is eliminated if old linoleum is used as the basis;
laminate boards that do not tolerate exposure to high humidity receive another layer of waterproofing.

Flaws

The disadvantages of using linoleum as a base for laminate flooring include:

in old apartments, linoleum coating can behave unpredictably (there is no such problem in new buildings). Over time, blisters, waves, and other deformations may appear on the surface of the coating, which leads to breakage of the lamella locks;
if water gets under the linoleum covered with laminate, its evaporation is very slow. On the one hand, this is good in terms of the safety of the boards, but at the same time, pockets of decay begin to appear in the felt insulation of the laminate, mold appears, and a fungus develops. As a result, you have to change the entire floor covering;
according to the reviews of the masters, some types of linoleum quickly lose their original properties under the laminate. The vinyl layer dries out, cracks and breaks, which, again, leads to the need to replace the base under the laminate.

Necessary materials and tools

In order to start self-laying laminate flooring on a linoleum base, you will need to purchase the following materials:

laminate boards (it would be right to immediately buy the entire volume of material from one factory batch so that there are no differences in color tone);
wedges to provide a gap between the wall and the first row of laminate;
cork substrate 2 mm thick, if the linoleum is without insulation.

The master will need the following tools:

measuring tape, at least 5 m long;
mallet or rubber mallet;
pencil;
nail puller. It will help lay the last row of laminate;
horizontal level;
as a rule, at least 2500 mm long;
cutting tool. To cut the lamellas, you need to choose a tool with a fine tooth. A hacksaw is suitable, a regular hacksaw with the smallest tooth, an electric jigsaw. Some craftsmen are used to working with laminate with an angle grinder.

Preparatory work

The convenience of laying lamellas on linoleum lies in the minimum cost of preparing the base. Consider these works step by step:

Furniture is removed from the room, freeing the flooring for inspection.
Skirting boards are dismantled.
The surface is checked for integrity. It is important to identify differences in height that exceed the allowable values. The moisture level on the base is also estimated.
Large dirt and dust are removed with a vacuum cleaner, after which wet cleaning is carried out.

To check the deviations of the surface in height, use a horizontal level. To increase the length of the measurement, it is recommended to set the level on the rule and move them together along the entire length of the room. The results obtained are compared with the maximum possible difference - 2 mm per square meter.

If differences exceeding 2 mm are detected, the linoleum is dismantled, and the screed is leveled with special mixtures. If numerous drops with maximum values \u200b\u200bare found, the linoleum will have to be completely dismantled and the base prepared for the laminate using classical technology.

In addition to height deviations, you need to check the level of the slope of the floor surface. To do this, use the level. If there is no tool, you can use improvised means: a cord is pulled diagonally across the room at the same level from the floor. With the help of the level, the presence of a slope is checked, and its value can be measured with a construction square.

To eliminate problems in the further operation of the laminate, the linoleum base should be repaired. Damage can be repaired as follows:

so that the edges of a small incision do not bulge, they are glued with polymer adhesives to the base or attached to double-sided tape;
large pieces of damaged linoleum are cut out, and a patch of the same thickness of material is glued in their place;
large cuts, slots and holes are glued by cold welding. A feature of the vinyl coating is that when exposed to cold welding, it liquefies, after which the polymerization process occurs. As a result, a strong and tight seam is formed in the problem area;
often in the old linoleum coating you can find swollen waves. To get rid of them, you need to cut the problem area at the highest point along the wave, and then glue both edges with polymer glue to the base.

To check the moisture level on the surface of an old floor covering, use a regular plastic sheet. A piece of 1000 by 1000 mm is cut out of the film and glued to the surface of the linoleum with adhesive tape for 24 hours, after which the film is checked. If there is moisture on it, it is necessary to thoroughly ventilate the room.

When preparing the base for laying laminate, some craftsmen recommend completely gluing the linoleum, but this method is not rational for the following reasons:

the cost of work and materials when gluing linoleum to the base is equal to the cost of the same work on laying a new substrate;
there is no need for a completely static position of linoleum;
when carrying out repair work with flooring, you will have to completely dismantle the linoleum and lay a new substrate, which will affect the overall estimate.

Instructions for self-laying

Consider a step-by-step algorithm for laying a laminate on your own on a linoleum base:

Before starting work, packages with boards are brought into the room, opened and the material is allowed to acclimatize for 24 hours.
Choose the method of laying the boards (along the room, across, herringbone). You can read more about these options.
Based on the laying method, the place of laying the first row is determined. We also offer a separate material on the topic.
Prior to installation, wedges are inserted between the wall and the first row of lamellas, which are designed to provide a temperature gap. Subsequently, such wedges are placed at the end of each row and on the final row along the wall.

Before laying, the spikes are removed from the boards of the first row. It is with this side that the lamellas are laid against the wall. Cross-cut cohesion of the boards is provided with a rubber mallet.
The second row is laid with dressing of seams, as in brickwork, for this, the first board is cut by a third or half. Each next row also comes with dressing of the seams; there should not be a coincidence of the end joints. Boards can only be knocked out with a rubber mallet through a bar with a comb.

The boards of the last row are sawn in width, taking into account the compensation gap from the wall. A nail puller is used to rally the finish boards.

Do you need an underlay

After you have decided in which case it is possible and how to lay the laminate on linoleum with your own hands, you need to clarify the last important point - the need to lay the substrate.

When laying laminate on linoleum, the following rules apply:

If the linoleum has a thick felt base, the substrate is not required. An excessive increase in the soft base under the lamellas causes uneven wear. As a result, the lock connections break, and the floor covering has to be completely changed.
If the linoleum is without soft insulation at the bottom, the substrate will be required. The best option for leveling would be a cork substrate 2 mm thick.

Many people choose to do their own home renovation. And when it comes to flooring, a lot of questions can arise. What to choose - parquet, polymer, laminate? And if the choice has stopped on the last option, what should be the basis? Is it possible to lay laminate on linoleum or will the floors have to be completely dismantled up to the floor itself? In order not to throw away money to the wind, it is better to consider this issue in more detail.

The advantage of laminate over linoleum

Linoleum is used very widely. Its main advantage is the ability to cover a large area with a single piece with a minimum of preparatory work. With a skillful approach, a perfectly flat, smooth surface, easy to clean, is obtained. And linoleum does not limit the imagination of designers, the pattern can be matched to any interior.

And yet, answering the question of which is better: laminate or linoleum in an apartment, they often tend to laminate.

This building material is not in vain chosen by the majority. It works great in residential areas, copes with office tasks, looks great in administrative and educational premises. Specialty stores are ready to offer the widest selection with different characteristics and textures. The main thing - the laminate is made on the basis of natural wood. It is a wear-resistant, durable material that pleases with ease of installation. It does not require additional polishing or varnishing. It is quite easy to care for him, stains are easy to remove from him.

What is better laminate or linoleum?

An additional pleasant factor is the ability to put a new laminate on an existing coating - tiles, boards, chipboard, even on linoleum. All this will even give more heat and sound insulation. In order for the rest of the parameters to please, you need to follow some tips:

the laminate should be properly "rested" upon arrival at the installation site. This will balance the temperature and humidity of the laminate, the subfloor and the room;
be sure to check the pattern and color on each panel;
tools and additional materials are prepared immediately for work over the entire area.

It remains only to properly prepare the base for the laminate and get to work.

What should be the basis

The requirements for the condition of the floor, which will serve as the basis for the laminate, are special. Since the laying is carried out in a locking manner, any significant difference in height will loosen the panels, cracks and cracks will appear. Irregularities only up to 3 mm are allowed, so concrete floors must be leveled and primed without fail. Wooden boards will have to be knocked out to each other, getting rid of the cracks, and then lay the substrate. Ideally, plywood sheets are laid on top of it.

Is it possible to lay laminate on linoleum? This is quite acceptable if the linoleum meets the requirements:

it is dry, clean;
the humidity of linoleum is within the normal range (not higher than 2%);
linoleum is not too soft;
it is firmly fixed to the floor.

This technology is especially popular in new buildings. The floors in new apartments are initially well leveled, so there is no need to dismantle the standard linoleum.

The softness of linoleum is of great importance. Panels laid on too soft linoleum will fail and sag. You will have to change such a laminate much more often.

Significantly simplifies the matter of high-quality linoleum at the base. If you plan to leave commercial tarkett linoleum under a new coating, then the result is likely to be excellent. This is a dense and durable material that will give the required quality of the base.

Attention! Equally important is the age of the foundation. A dilapidated floor may contain mold spores. You should not guess whether it is possible to lay a new laminate on the old linoleum. This is also fraught with mechanical damage to the panels, because the old coating can swell and this will harm the appearance of the new floor.

Before laying the laminate panels, you will have to dismantle the plinth, clean and dry the surface, check the floors with a level for an allowable deviation. If the irregularities are too large, they are eliminated: the bubbles are cut and glued, the cavities are filled with putty.

The lining is very important

If the linoleum does not quite meet the requirements, you will have to work on the substrate. It will be a kind of shock absorber. Without a backing, the quality of the new coating can suffer greatly: not only will cracks appear, the panels will simply disperse, dips or swelling may form.

The substrate under the laminate is used composite, three-layer, made of dense polyethylene with a layer of polystyrene. The cork proved to be excellent. It is considered the best option, especially for connoisseurs of natural materials. How to lay the sheets of the substrate is indicated on the package, usually this is not difficult. It is impossible to save, without a good substrate, a brand new floor will quickly lose its appearance and working qualities.

Properly made substrate, in addition to good insulation, allows you to reduce the cost of buying a laminate

Lay the sheets of substrate material so that they are perpendicular to the light from the window. Since the panels themselves will later be placed in the direction of the rays of the sun, the joints between them will become less noticeable.

Properly made substrate, in addition to good insulation, allows you to reduce the cost of buying a laminate. Indeed, on such a flat floor, you can pick up thinner panels - 8 mm instead of the usual 10-11 mm. Unless, of course, the operation of heavy or constantly moving furniture is expected, or the room is not planned to be used as a gym or dance studio.

Laying laminate

The technology of laying laminate on linoleum is somewhat different from working with another base. It is best to entrust this to the masters. But if self-repair is essential, it is worth spending a little time and watching more available videos. There are many and detailed instructions on how to lay linoleum under a laminate, the photo below illustrates each stage step by step.

Step 1. Start laying with two boards of the first row. Spacer wedges are inserted between them and the wall to provide a gap of about 10 mm. This is the so-called "deformation gap". After all, the laminate, being a natural material, will certainly change humidity and temperature, like everything else in the room, and such changes will make the panels “walk” in size.

The panels are laid with a lock parallel to the rays of light from the window. This will make the seams almost invisible. The lock makes the process simple and fast. At the end of the row, the last panel is cut off. If the edge is more than 500 mm, then the second row can be laid starting from it. This will help keep costs down to some extent. You just have to make sure that the end joints are located from each other by more than 300 mm. This helps to properly distribute the pressure that occurs when exposed to moisture.

Near the walls there are often risers of heating pipes. When such a pipe is encountered on the path of the next panel, then a semicircle is cut out in the laminate with a special drill nozzle, with a diameter slightly larger than the pipe. In the future, it can be hidden under a decorative overlay.

Step 2. The second row is laid with a lock on the edges of the panels. It is easy to lay the panel, it is enough to attach it to the edge of the panel of the first row, trying to make an angle of 45º, after that the panel of the second row falls down until a characteristic click. Each panel is pressed tightly by tapping on the end with a hammer. The four panels in the first two rows form the base.
Step 3. The subsequent rows are laid, focusing on the base. The last panels are fixed with a clamp. It will make the panel motionless. The expansion wedges are not removed until the end of the installation. The gap will also be needed after completion - with its help it will be easier to disassemble the floor if subsequent repairs are necessary.
Step 3. The plinth is selected in the most suitable color. It can be laid immediately, but it is better to pause for a few days. This will allow the laminate to settle a little. It is best to choose a model with a special groove for wires inside.
Step 4. If the laminate is laid in neighboring rooms, the joint is closed with a special strip, the width of which is not more than 3 cm. Aerobatics is considered to be “solid lamination” of the entire area, but this is quite difficult to do. This is partly due to the fact that whether the panels are placed on linoleum or on a concrete floor, they will have to be placed in the same direction, but the windows are located on different walls. Joints can become too noticeable. Yes, and there will be much more waste, and when laying the panels, you will have to cut not only across, but also along.
Step 5. Installing the doors. Door frames are installed only after the installation of the laminate. But if it was mounted earlier, you will have to make a cut at the bottom. It will include a panel. This will help to avoid a rigid abutment of the panels to the door frame, which is fraught with deformation.

Now it becomes clearer whether it is possible to lay a laminate on linoleum and how easy it is to do. It remains only to strictly follow all the recommendations in order to avoid unpleasant “swings” under your feet or an ominous creak. Works performed according to all the rules will give the house beauty and comfort.

Very often, in order to simplify some kind of workflow, we try to combine incompatible things. Such attempts also apply to the solution of the question - is it possible to lay a laminate on linoleum?

To improve the interior, is it possible to lay laminate on linoleum? It is possible, but subject to certain conditions.

After all, these floor coverings are completely different and each is used in certain conditions. In addition, for the proper arrangement of both, high-quality preparation of the subfloor is required.

So I want to understand why all of a sudden on an existing coating that still looks good enough, you decide to lay another one.

There can be only two answers: you do not like traditional linoleum or you decided to update the interior design, which entailed the change of the existing flooring to a more fashionable and beautiful laminate.

When it can't be done

The main reasons why you can not lay a laminate on linoleum are as follows:

The existing coating was worn to holes;
There has been swelling of the coating;
There was damage and destruction of the base of the coating.

The presence of such reasons, or even one of them, leads to the fact that the old coating should be disposed of and the floor should be properly prepared for the new one.

Useful advice! Do not rush to tear off the linoleum, which lies perfectly flat, but has dried out a little from time and began to crumble at the joints. These places can be carefully cut out and leveled with heat-insulating putty. In this case, laying laminate on linoleum is allowed.

Regulatory requirements according to SNiP

Considering the possibility of laying a laminate on linoleum, with which there are certain problems, you can try to eliminate them:

cut the waves,
Carefully fasten the places of cuts along the perimeter to the base,
Putty holes and after all lay laminate boards on the substrate, but this is not enough.

Important! The thing is that according to SNiP there are certain requirements that apply to the condition of the floor, and, unfortunately, they cannot be neglected. And the existing coating, which has worn out during operation, does not meet these requirements at all.

The essence of the requirements of SNiP is as follows:

The floor under any coating should be perfectly flat. This means that the gaps between the floor surface and the rail-rule in all directions should be no more than 2 mm. And we, given the thickness of the linoleum itself, already have a much larger gap, not to mention its waves. Moreover, in the case of laminate, the boards of which have a lock connection, and their proper fit is the basis of high-quality installation, any irregularities will cause the locks to diverge.
The slope of the floor should be no more than 0.2%. This means that any two points, the distance between which is 4 m, must have a height difference of no more than 8 mm. Linoleum, which has already served for a long time, is unlikely to meet this.

Of these two requirements, you can still somehow turn a blind eye to the second, but the first actually nullifies all our attempts to lay laminate over existing linoleum.

What do we end up with? Let's look at this problem from a brighter side.

Received coverage. If, nevertheless, you decide to lay a laminate on linoleum, then in the end it turned out, from the point of view of building codes, a fairly reliable multi-layer structure, on which

BUT? the wall of the room, the gap between it and the new coating (if you are planning to equip it) should be 8-10 mm;
b? concrete subfloor;
C? waterproofing layer;
D? cement screed, which was made under the linoleum;

E? primer on the screed, which leveled it and was also sanded when excess cement "milk" was removed;
F? a layer of glue for laying linoleum;
G? existing linoleum;
H? substrate under the laminate;
I? laminate boards.

Useful advice! The laminate has high strength characteristics. Some of its types, belonging to classes 33 and 34, can withstand heavy loads and are recommended for use in sports and industrial premises.

That is why when laying it, the base must be solid. In the case of linoleum, if it has a soft surface layer, laying the laminate is impractical because it can sag.

When should you get rid of linoleum?

As a rule, one of the most common reasons for replacing linoleum is the wetting of its base and further destruction. There can be no two opinions here - it should be completely replaced.

This work is as follows:

Not only the linoleum itself is removed, but also all layers up to the cement screed;
Be sure to find out the cause of wetting and the origin of moisture;
The screed is re-cleaned and thoroughly dried;
The surface of the screed is treated with antiseptic compounds several times a week, after each drying;
If necessary, a leveling layer is made with putty;
A substrate is placed on the subfloor prepared in this way;
Laminate boards are installed on the substrate.

The decision is made - we lay the laminate on the linoleum

After analyzing the condition of the existing linoleum and making sure that it is satisfactory, we begin laying the laminate:

Let's start laying the substrate. Usually, a substrate with a thickness of 2 to 4 mm is sufficient for a laminate. But, in our case, since the linoleum itself is already a fairly solid foundation, the substrate can be chosen with the most minimal thickness. And then a pleasant surprise awaits you? if your linoleum is insulated, thick enough, durable and even, then the substrate is not needed at all!
We proceed to the installation of laminate boards, starting from the corner closest to the window.

Useful advice! If the existing linoleum is not continuous, but consists of strips, the direction of which can be clearly traced, then the substrate must necessarily be laid in such a way that it is perpendicular to the direction of these strips.

And the laminate boards are laid perpendicular to the strips of the substrate. If there is a joint of linoleum strips, it must be covered with a substrate.

Conclusions.

Let's not pretend, conclusions about good neighborly relations between laminate and linoleum are probably hasty. If possible, such relationships should be avoided.

It is worth considering the only possibility - if the linoleum is of good quality and even enough, which makes it possible for it to perform the function of leveling the floor and use it as a substrate, then such a neighborhood can be considered as expedient and useful.

The laminate, which has such a base under it, is still protected from moisture and performs its functions well. And then it all depends on how you will use it. After all, these different floor coverings have one common drawback? negative attitude to excess moisture.

Concluding the topic of laying laminate on linoleum, we want to show you what really comes out of this.

This video is not intended to make you give up on this idea. It simply warns against rash steps and makes you think!