Knife for cutting edges on chipboard.  WEGOMA trimming tools. Longitudinal trimming tool WEGOMA AU93

An easy way to stick PVC edge

The easiest way to stick a PVC edge is to order hot melt glue to be rolled onto the edge in any furniture workshop. Then glue it, heating it with an iron or a hair dryer (naturally, not with an ordinary hair dryer, but with a technical one, which gives 500-600 degrees at the output). I myself have not used this method, so I can only presumably talk about the negative aspects of it, based on work experience with material.

I glue the PVC edge on the usual rubber glue sold by us in bulk. Best for "Moment", "88" is also suitable.

Knife and other hand cutting tools are not suitable for processing PVC. Even if you manage to cut the edge with a knife, then, I assure you, neither the effort nor the time spent on this thankless task will pay for itself.

To process such an edge, you will need a router. In fact, a special edge router is used for these purposes:

But if you are not going to open your own production, then there is no need to buy such a machine. It is better to purchase a normal, large milling cutter. In addition to processing PVC, it is useful for finishing the ends, and for grooving - both at the ends of the panels and on the layer. And if you work with wood, then you simply need a router!

It is not necessary to buy a cool and expensive, quite good Phiolent routers - a reliable semi-professional

Cutter cutter ABS edging

For processing PVC edges, the following cutter is used:

Therefore, the first step will be to slightly modernize our router by adding a step to the platform. . It can be made from textolite, plywood, at worst, from fiberboard - in a word, from any sheet material with a thickness of 4-5 mm. You can fix it on screws, screws, etc., the main thing is to drown the hats or glue!

Now you need to adjust the cutter height. On the processed panel, this should not be done. It is unlikely that the first time you will be able to accurately adjust the height. Take some scrap (but not very narrow, so that the router platform does not swing), glue it with an edge, and set it up on it.

Usually, no matter how you set it up, a small protrusion remains after processing. This is not scary, just try to keep this protrusion to a minimum so that it can be easily cut off with a knife. When you finish tuning, do not throw away this cut - it will come in handy next time. When it becomes necessary to re-adjust the height of the cutter, simply turn the cutter perpendicular to the face and lower the platform so that the cutter rests snugly on the machined edge.

The cutter is set, you can start processing the panels. You need to process in two passes. After the first pass, the cut will most likely be uneven, with the second pass we align all the protrusions and depressions:

It's in that order! If you change the pass order, the cutter will knock out and chip off the edge. From time to time, clean the cutter bearing and edge from adhering chips - the bearing can bounce on it and the cut will be uneven.

So, the panel you have processed with a milling cutter, but this is only a small part of the work. Now you have a long manual processing, which takes two to three times more time. First you need to trim the hanging ends of the edge. This can be done with large scissors or simply broken off by first cutting with a knife. When breaking off, do not forget to firmly press the edge at the edge of the butt so that it does not peel off. Cut not at the very root, but retreating somewhere by 0.5 mm. It is better to spend time sanding or sanding than cutting more than necessary.

No router cuts PVC perfectly. In any case, bumps will remain that will be clearly visible in the light. In most companies that manufacture furniture for sale, no one bothers with further processing - they cut off the remaining protrusion with a knife, strike a couple of times with the back of the knife along the cut and that's it.

But are you doing it for yourself? So get ready to spend the same amount of time to bring the cut to perfect condition. First of all, cut off the protrusion remaining after the router with a knife (if the height of the cutter is set correctly, then you will have to cut off a thin thread).

If you glued PVC on contact adhesive, then most likely there will be streaks and streaks of glue on the panel. Be careful when cutting them. And it is better to first remove them with a cloth moistened with solvent or gasoline. After that, walk along the cut with a fine sandpaper, aligning all the “ripples”, then polish it with felt.

Now you have a finished panel that is not inferior in quality to that made at a furniture factory, and maybe even surpasses it!

Jun 01 2013

Hemming with a 2 mm edge with a hair dryer

Two mm PVC edge, in my opinion, is the best solution for chipboard edging. It is also the most durable and looks more "rich" on the product than 0.4, there is nothing to say about melamine. If it were my will, I would cut all the details with a "kopeck piece", but the price of it bites, especially if you order the trim in the workshop.

Therefore, I try to glue it myself, especially since today you can buy an edge in stores with hot melt glue already applied to it. Such manipulation makes it more expensive than just a ruble per linear meter - KOPEKI.

So, for gluing 2 mm PVC edges with applied hot melt adhesive, we need: the edge itself. Thermal gun (building hair dryer), milling cutter with finger cutter (or edge milling cutter), hacksaw blade, metal ruler.

Traditionally, we fix the workpiece vertically, preferably on a workbench or at least a stool).

We measure the length of the edge, cut off the necessary piece, apply it to the workpiece and, heating the glue with a hairdryer, press it to the end of the part. Carefully iron it with your hand (some craftsmen use a felted bar or rollers for this). You need to work with gloves, otherwise it is easy to burn your hands.

On the radii, the edge must first be warmed up so that it softens - then it will lie much more evenly.

Having glued the entire surface, we saw off the overhangs from the ends with a simple hacksaw blade.

We pass to the overhangs from the sides. To remove them, we need a milling cutter. Ideally, a special edging, but without fish ... I use a Ryobi universal router. It is quite massive and inconvenient for such work, but the result is quite satisfactory. The cutter is cylindrical with a bearing. It is advisable to use a parallel emphasis (in the article this moment is described too complicated - everything should be clear in the photo).

On the radii, you need to be careful, because. the base "fails" and the canopy has to work - there is a high risk of cutting the laminate.

I try to have the cutter blades leave about 0.1-0.2mm of edge uncut - i.e. do not reach the edge of the workpiece for this distance. This measure prevents damage to the surface by careless movement, but requires additional steps afterwards.

Removing this residue is done with a metal ruler in the same way as melamine.

After the final removal of the overhangs, the edges of the edge are sharp - our task is to smooth them out. This is done using the same line. Turning it at an angle, we scratch the sharp edge, rounding it, and removing the unevenness of the milling. At the junction of the edge with the laminate, we work carefully to avoid damaging it.

Thus, we smooth both sharp edges along the entire length, at the same time we remove excess glue protruding from under the joint. As a result, we get the following:

Of course, it is better to use a specialized edge router for this, such as this one. It is much more convenient to work with it: they use a molding cutter, so there is no need to modify the edge later, they are much smaller in size, which means that they can be operated with one hand.

BUT the cost of this device, as a rule, exceeds 5000 r, therefore, I am from my 800 watt. It turned out like this:

Edge processing is an integral process in the manufacture of almost any wooden product. Two or three decades ago, the edge cutter was a big deficit for most home craftsmen. Now on the market, these products are considered affordable consumables for both professional machines and hand tools (milling cutters). On sale, you can easily find a wide variety of cutter models, even for creating an edge with a fancy curved geometric shape.

Edge cutter design

Structurally, all cutters for an edge router consist of three parts:

• Shank, which is clamped into the cartridge of the device used. The standard shape of this part of the cutter for hand tools is cylindrical, with a groove for better fixation. For professional use in special machines, nozzles with a conical shape of the clamping part are produced. This component is made of structural alloy steel.
• cutting part, the shape of which determines the configuration of the processed edge. It can be made as a single piece with a shank or with replaceable cutting elements. The design of the shank of some models allows you to install several of these parts at the same time. The blades of these cutter elements are made of high-speed tool steel or special hard alloys.
• Bearing(if provided by the design), which is installed in the upper or lower part of the shank. A set of such devices of different diameters allows you to adjust the depth of cut.

Edge cutters

Let us consider in more detail the existing types of devices. The most popular and demanded type of cutting tool for end processing is an edge cutter with a bearing (upper or lower, less often with both at the same time). With the help of such devices, it is possible to process both straight edges and according to a pre-made template, which is especially important when manufacturing several identical wooden parts. According to the geometric shape of the cutting element, such cutters are very diverse and allow you to create both a smooth end at a right angle to the surface of a wooden workpiece, and the most complex, curved edges.

Straight cutter

After processing the end face with a straight edge cutter with a bearing, the angle between the horizontal surface and the equipped edge is 90˚. The choice of the size of the working part of such nozzles directly depends on the thickness of the edge to be processed. Very often, such devices are used not only to level the entire surface of the butt, but also to remove protruding elements of a wooden structure, for example, veneer glued to a countertop.

Cone cutters can also be attributed to this category. The edge processed with such a nozzle has a smooth surface located at an angle to the surface of the web. The dimensions and configuration of the cutting element depend on the thickness and required edge inclination.

Moulder edge cutter

The concave surface of the cutting part of such a cutter allows you to make rounded edges of various wood products. These nozzles are most widely used in the manufacture of countertops, processing the ends of shelves or armrests of chairs. The surface of the edge, made using this type of fixture, is a ¼ circle. The size of the cutting part of such a cutter is selected depending on the thickness of the material and the required edge radius.

Fillet cutter

This cutter in terms of cutting edge geometry is a mirror image of the moulder. The cutting element is made in the form of an outwardly curved arc of a circle. It is intended for arranging an edge with a concave recess. Such products are widely used in the manufacture of skirting boards of simple shape or legs for furniture.

Cutters for joining individual elements

Quite often, a wooden product consists of several parts, which are subsequently connected with glue. In order to firmly and reliably dock individual elements, the edges of the parts are processed with special cutters. The cutting elements of such products allow you to create connections:

• “in a quarter” (on one side of the end of each part, a recess of a square section is made, the width and depth of which are equal to ½ of the thickness of the web);
• with a selection of a rectangular shape, the depth of which depends on the diameter of the installed bearing or the adjusting devices of the device used;
• “thorn-groove” (a protrusion is made on one part, the same recess is made on the second);

• multi-thorn (several rectangular grooves are cut at the ends of the first part, on the second - the same number of protrusions).

Nozzles for the manufacture of figured ends

Such products are designed to create complex geometric shapes of edges. With their help, they make blanks for baguette frames of paintings or photographs, process the ends of exclusive furniture, door and window openings. Nozzles are produced both in the form of a finished monolithic design, and with the ability to install two or more different cutters on the shank, which allows you to create an edge according to your own design preferences.

One of the varieties of such devices is designed for decorative processing of the edges of door panels and the manufacture of skirting boards of various shapes.

Manufacturers and prices

The range of edge cutters for wood is quite wide and varied. These items can be purchased separately. The price of these nozzles depends on the manufacturer, the configuration of the cutting element and its dimensions. For example, a FIT straight cutter with a diameter of 10 mm and a working length of 20 mm costs about 150 rubles, and a Bosh edge moulder with a radius of 14 mm and a lower bearing will cost you 900 rubles.

Many manufacturers offer sets of cutters (from six pieces or more in one set):

• with products of the same shape, but different sizes of the working part;
• with milling cutters, the size and shape of the cutting element of which differs, is most often used in self-processing of wooden structures.

For example, a FIT set of 6 most commonly used devices costs 790 rubles, and a HAMMER set (of 12 or 15 pieces) costs 2000 or 2400 rubles, respectively.

Edging is a basic stage in the process of manufacturing cabinet furniture from board materials. The article about showed the easiest way of edging - manually, using ordinary household tools. There are highly specialized tools designed for edge trimming that can greatly facilitate and speed up the work of a furniture maker.

End trimming tool WEGOMA KG94.

The tool allows you to quickly and accurately cut the end of melamine, PVC or ABS edges up to 1.2 mm thick and up to 54 mm wide with one touch.

The KG94 is made of durable plastic and is equipped with two removable scissor blades. If necessary, the bottoms can be replaced with new ones or sharpened. The fixed knife is adjustable in reach and installation angle, this allows you to set a minimum, uniform gap between the cutting edges of the knives to obtain a high-quality cut.

Photo of the KG94 undercutter from different angles.

The operation of the lever and knives.

The KG94 undercutter is mounted on the part.
To perform cutting, you need to press the lever.

Cutter KG94 in the process of cutting. The lever is partially pressed.

Edge trimmed with tool KG94
In the photo yellow - melamine edge, "Wenge" - ABS.

In the event that the adjacent end of the part had a glued edge, after trimming, sometimes a small influx of glue remains, which is easily removed solvent or by mechanical means.

The tool for longitudinal cutting of an edge of WEGOMA AU93.

The tool is designed for double-sided longitudinal trimming of edges up to 0.5 mm thick and up to 40 mm wide. Two knives work for each edge overhang: the main knife cuts the edge overhang (surplus) flush with the part face, the other one removes the corner chamfer from the edge edge and / or cleans up possible flaws in the operation of the first knife.

Structurally, AU93 consists of two mirror-like plastic elements - half-shells, connected to each other through two guide bushings with springs inside. Each semi-body has three removable, adjustable knives, which allows you to work with either side of the tool, or adjust the sides to work with edging materials of various thicknesses. The main double knife has a setting for fit to the plate. Additional two chamfering knives are adjustable in reach.

Photo of the cutter AU93 from different angles.

Longitudinal cutter in disassembled form. The smaller the edge width, the more you have to compress the springs. When working with chipboard up to 18 mm thick, it makes sense to put the springs weaker, or even remove them altogether.

Semi-hull. The main knife adjusting screw is visible.

Adjusting screw of one of the additional knives.

Set of new knives for AU93. A similar kit is also available for the KG94 end cutter.

The minimum possible thickness of the workpiece is 14 mm.

WEGOMA AU93 in action. Edge melamine (yellow) and ABS (Wenge).

Melamine and ABS edges cut to length.

Based on the results of using these WEGOMA tools in the production of cabinet furniture from laminated chipboard, we can draw the following conclusions.

The WEGOMA KG94 end cutter is a universal, useful and necessary tool. It can be safely recommended to any furniture maker who still uses a knife. The cutter works equally well with melamine, PVC and ABS edging, as well as with HPL plastic used for edging kitchen worktops. With sharp and adjusted knives, the cut is perfect or close to perfect, requiring only light grinding with an emery bar.

Longitudinal edge cutter WEGOMA AU93 in practice does not always show excellent results. When working with a melamine edge, the tool often leaves an inconspicuous, but tactilely felt step, which must be sanded off. Adjustment of the main cutter knives did not lead to the proper result. On the ABS edge, the step problem is almost non-existent. Additional knives do not justify themselves at all, they work with varying degrees of success, depending on the force of pressing the semi-hulls to the material and the point of application of this force. An important advantage of the AU93 longitudinal cutter is that it allows you to comfortably work with long, large-sized parts in any spatial position.