Do-it-yourself plywood desk. A few examples of how to make a table out of plywood, pallets or countertops. The simplest plywood table

The reserves of natural building materials on our planet are limited, and they are replenished much more slowly than they are consumed - therefore, the idea of using recycled materials to make useful things is far from new and has been especially popular lately. Moreover, some types of such raw materials are ideal for making an excellent dining table in the country or in the gazebo. And if you put in quite a bit of effort and imagination, you can make an excellent table for the kitchen.

We will tell you more about some interesting and original ideas for making stylish and, most importantly, comfortable tables. But to make such tables, bringing your “zest” to their design is your task.

Pallet table - solidity, solidity and reliability

To understand how to make a table out of pallets with your own hands in the simplest way, you must first decide which of the elements of the pallet will be used to make the table.

The design of the pallet is shown in Fig.1.

Flooring from the extreme and intermediate boards is most often used for the table top and side planes of the table, and checkers (in some types of pallets they can be replaced with bars running along the transverse boards) - as the connection points of the table parts.

Loft-style table - or designer table

For a table measuring 800x1200x750 mm, 3 pallets are required. The table shown in photo 1 will require as many as 6 of them, and may have a different configuration, as it consists of two identical modules. Having made such a couple, you can model the kitchen space in different ways.

In addition to pallets, we will need: a nail puller, a hand saw, confirmations (or nails) for screeding parts of the structure, a grinder, a spatula, putty and wood paint, varnish.

Preparing for the assembly of the structure. Dismantle the pallets as follows:

We assemble the U-shaped design of the table, connecting the table top with pallets placed on the ribs and pulling them together with confirmations.

For reliability, you can additionally install furniture corners on the back of the tabletop.

We connect the central checkers of the side parts of the table with an additional crossbar made of a transverse board left after the dismantling of the first pallet.

Finishing of the structure. Carefully putty the roughness of the outer surfaces of the table, paying special attention to the countertop and the ends of the boards. Allow the putty to dry and re-sand the outer structural elements. Paint in the desired color and cover with two layers of varnish.

As you can see, making a pallet table with your own hands is very simple - all you need is imagination and attention to detail. Try to make a table with photo 2 yourself - you will see, you will succeed!

Table from a postforming tabletop: a classic of the genre in the right sizes

And again, the good old classics, but created with their own hands.

You need a very small piece of furniture countertops to significantly save on buying a dining table for the kitchen. We will talk about how to make a table from the countertop with your own hands. The classic kitchen table (photo 3) practically does not differ from the furniture bought in the furniture store - except, perhaps, the size of the countertop, ideal for your kitchen.

We will need the following materials and tools:

A piece of countertop made of chipboard (if you buy it for these purposes, ask the sellers to immediately cut it to the right size);

A set of legs for the table - it would be optimal to buy round legs with a height of 710 mm (diameter 60 mm);
T-shaped furniture edging (with girths and an installation spike). All listed materials can be seen in Fig.3.

Of the tools we need: a jigsaw, a grinder (preferably a belt grinder), a drill with a cutter head (or a circular saw blade), a screwdriver. You also need a hammer with a rubber nozzle, sealant, self-tapping screws for attaching the legs to the table top, a caliper and a regular drawing compass.

After all the material has been collected, the tool has been prepared - you can begin to make a table from the countertop with your own hands.

1 stage of work - the manufacture of countertops:

Shaping;
a) We make marks 10 cm from the corner, on each side of the countertop. The center of the rounding is at the point of intersection of the perpendiculars drawn from these marks to the sides of the tabletop rectangle. The radius of the compass solution is 10 cm. We draw the rounding of all corners;

b) With an electric jigsaw, carefully file the corners of the countertop along the marked arcs. To avoid chipping the finish of the slab, a jigsaw file must be taken with a reverse direction of the teeth;

c) Carefully process the cuts with a grinder;

edging;

d) With a caliper we measure the distance from the side of the edge to its spike. At the same distance from the top plane of the countertop, we draw a line along its end;

e) With a cutter, select a groove along this line;

f) With a hammer with a rubber nozzle, carefully hammer the edging with a spike into the groove. For greater strength, it is desirable to apply silicone to the end;

Legs;

g) We mark places for the legs of the table;

h) We fasten the holders with 25 mm screws;

i) Install the table supports.

Table - a puzzle made of birch plywood: originality, simplicity and style

How to make a table out of plywood with your own hands can be seen in the diagram (Figure 4). This table will decorate any room.

The material for the manufacture of such furniture is better to take birch, sheet thickness - 30-35 mm.

You will need: sheets of plywood - 2500x750 mm and 1500x1500 mm, a drawing tool, a jigsaw, PVA glue (if the product is planned to be non-separable), a grinder, sandpaper and finishing materials.

The peculiarity of a plywood table is assembly without a single fastener, and how you can make it as convenient as possible in terms of height and size of the tabletop with your own hands is up to you. The round table in figure 4d has a height of 750 mm and a tabletop diameter of 1500 mm.

The manufacturing algorithm is as follows

Markup. In accordance with the drawing, parts A and B are absolutely identical in contour, the difference is only in the depth of the assembly grooves. Therefore, it is better to make one template (from drawing paper), and use it to make markings on plywood. Pay attention to the highlighting in red: the stops of the grooves should be on the same line, and their width (as well as the height of the puzzle ledges in the upper part of the parts) should be equal to the thickness of the plywood.
Sawing and detailing. Attention and precision are important here: the strength and stability of the product depend on them. Sanding, toning and varnishing should be carried out on all parts of the parts, including the ends.
Assembly. With the quality of the previous stages, the assembly will not take much time: we connect parts A and B (in the groove), we put part B on top of the puzzle ledges. If the fasteners of the underframe protrude somewhat above the plane of the tabletop, they must be leveled (with a grinder). We cover the details with a finishing layer of varnish - the table is ready!

One of the most budgetary tables in the manufacture is a table made of plywood. In this article, we will gradually analyze the technology for making a table from plywood. In addition to the material, we attach photos of production, a drawing and even a video instruction, which you will find at the bottom of the page.

Tool and material for making a plywood table

Tool:
Electric jigsaw
screwdriver
Sander
construction corner
Construction tape measure (meter)
Pencil or pen
Construction line
Wood drill - 5 mm. diameter

Material:
Sheet of furniture plywood - 152x152 cm.
masking tape
Furniture bolts
Furniture corners
Wood screws

As for the drawing of the table, everything is simple here. We produce: 2 legs measuring 76 cm high, 46 cm wide, a tabletop measuring 100 cm long, 60 cm wide and a stiffening bar measuring 77 cm long, 52 cm wide.

Countertop manufacturing

To make a countertop, we need to cut a sheet of plywood in half into two parts. As you remember, we took a sheet of plywood measuring 152x152 cm.
Dividing the sheet in half, we got two rectangles measuring 152x76 cm. Here, one of the squares will just go to the countertop, we measure 100 cm long and 60 cm wide, draw lines with a pencil or pen.

By the way, many are wondering how to cut plywood so that it does not tear. We answer this question, if you remember, then in the list of materials we mentioned molar tape. So, we take this adhesive tape and glue it tightly, then rub it against the line that we drew, look at the photo:

If you still have questions, then at the bottom of the page you can watch a video on this topic. There we show in detail how to make plywood not tear when cutting.

We take a jigsaw and cut along the lines that we drew. Peel off the remnants of masking tape from all sawn off sides. Now, taking a round shape, we took a metal bowl, you can use whatever you like. And we put the tabletops on the corners, so that we have a semicircle, that is, we round off the sharp corners, something like this:

We make roundings at all four corners and also glue along the lines with tape. Carefully saw off with an electric jigsaw.

After sawing and removing the remnants of the masking tape, you need to take a grinder, put on it a sanding belt with a grit size of No. 100 and grind the rounded corners.

The tabletop is almost ready, it remains to sand all the bumps on the surface of the plywood. Given that the plywood is more or less even, it won’t take much time, this is how the countertop will look like in the end:

Let's start making a table stiffener

The bar of stiffness or otherwise it is called lateral stability. It plays the role of a support for the table, thanks to this bar we will fix the legs of the table and the table top, thus, the unsteadiness will go away and the structure will become stable.

We take the second half of the sheet and mark the rectangle - 77x52 cm. We also glue the lines with tape and cut them off with an electric jigsaw.

As for the drawing of the cross bar, you can see from the video how to make markings in the form of a wave. After marking and sawing off, you should get such a table stiffness bar:

Making two table legs

It is difficult to make a plywood table on four legs, so we will make two wide, beautiful and voluminous legs. The rest of the sheet is just enough for two pieces. We mark out two rectangles, each measuring 76x46 cm, where 76 cm is the height of the legs, and 46 cm is the width.

We glue it with adhesive tape and saw off with an electric jigsaw. You will also find how to make markings for a beautiful shape on the sides of the legs in the video clip. We have this drawing:

Cut in the same way. We transfer the finished leg template to the second rectangle, make markings on it and saw off again. Now we grind all the blanks, except for the countertop, here we have such a set of finished blanks:

Assembling the table frame

Let's start assembling the frame of the dining table. We take the transverse stability and put marks where the furniture bolts will be twisted. Be careful here, because at this step it is very easy to make a mistake.

Let's get down to business, take the stiffness bar and divide it into three equal parts. If you did according to our instructions, then you should have marks for drilling holes: the first mark is 7 cm, the second is 26.5 cm and the third is 45 cm. The first mark should be applied from the top of the plank, where the countertop lies .

We take a drill for wood with a diameter of 5 mm. and make holes in the ends of the stability bar. The drilling depth should be 5.5-6 cm, since the length of a standard furniture bolt is 5 cm. We transfer the same dimensions that we made on the stiffness bar to the table legs.

We also begin to put marks on top of the legs, where the countertop will lie. We divide the legs in half in width from top to bottom, draw a thin line with a pencil and put marks on it at 7 cm, 26.5 cm and 45 cm and make through holes with the same wood drill.

After all the holes are made, take one leg and bait all three furniture bolts. We attach the stability bar and fasten all the bolts with a screwdriver. On the other hand, we attach the second leg and also fasten it.
This is how the table frame looks like:

Now, take the countertop and put the table frame on top. We measure the same distance over the entire area of \u200b\u200bthe countertop and fasten it with wood screws using furniture corners.

Since the thickness of the plywood is 18 mm. wood screws should be taken 15 mm. The product is ready, it remains to process the table (carry out paint work), here, if desired, you can paint, freeze, varnish the product or in any other way.

Guillaume's desk is an example of amazing furniture that will grow with the child. In addition, the children's table transforms into a convenient magnetic board. Such versatility allows you to save space in the house and not spend money on buying new furniture every year.

Tools

Screwdriver. Power tool for tightening screws. Mobile due to the lack of wires and powerful enough to make holes of small diameter.
Self-tapping screws 3.5 x 19 mm. Necessary for connecting the parts of the desk to each other. Unlike furniture nails, they do not allow joints to loosen.
Putty knife. Tool for uniform distribution of paint over the surface.
Roller with short pile. Allows you to quickly and evenly paint vertical and horizontal surfaces.
Sandpaper with 600 grit. Used for final grinding of parts.
Masking tape. Limits the area of the part to be painted, preventing paint from spilling onto other elements.
Jigsaw. Tool for sawing parts out of wood panels. Allows you to adjust the direction of the cut as you work.

Necessary materials

To make a children's desk transformer, we need three-layer wooden panels. The main details of the structure will be cut out of them. The thickness of the panels is 30 millimeters and the size is 1700 x 900 millimeters.

Assembly instructions

The photo shows the dimensions.
Details of Guillaume's desk with dimensions We mark the main details of the future school furniture on the panels. You can cut them yourself, or you can turn to professionals. The thickness of all parts is the same - 30 millimeters.
We cut out the details with a jigsaw.
We process the ends of the blanks with sandpaper to get rid of sharp edges and burrs.
Now let's create a magnetic board. Stick painter's tape along the borders of the proposed board.
Prime the surface with an adhesive primer. Before applying the primer must be stirred. For uniform application of the mixture, a short pile roller is best.
Let's go with sandpaper over the dried primer for grinding.
Using a damp cloth, remove the accumulated dust and wait for the primer to dry completely.
After five hours, we apply paint with magnetic properties. Before applying it also needs to be stirred. Apply it with a roller, stirring occasionally during operation. Magnetic paint is applied in three layers, the drying time of each is 24 hours, it is not recommended to apply a new layer until the previous one is completely dry. Try to be as smooth as possible. To do this, use a short-haired roller and a paint spatula.
After the third layer has completely dried, apply decorative paint for blackboards. In modern stores you can find any color. We mix the paint, apply it to the surface with a short pile roller. Wait six hours for the first coat to dry and apply the second. Lightly move the roller in one direction to even out the paint.
Now we collect the cut out details of the home table together. Using self-tapping screws, we fix the table stand supports on the bottom panel (numbers 3, 4 and 5 in the diagram).
We fix the rack and install the table cover holders (numbers 2, 7 and 8 in the diagram).
We put the table top on the rack.
Assemble the chair by connecting the seat to the chair post (numbers 9 and 11 in the diagram).
Next, we attach the rack with the seat to the bottom panel of the chair using a support (numbers 6 and 10 in the diagram).

Labor and cost

Sawing parts will take an hour. Subsequent assembly and fixing for another half an hour.

Painting, together with the drying of each layer for about four days.

Adhesive primer 4 kg. - 300 rubles
Paint with magnetic properties 0.5 l. — 1500 rubles
Blackboard paint 1 l. — 1000 rubles
Three sheets of plywood 1700 x 900 mm - 5800 rubles

The total cost of the table is 8,600 rubles.

With such a table, the child will go through more than one class. The height of the chair and cover can be adjusted, so that such furniture will serve the owner for several years.

Video

Such a table can be very useful when there is a shortage of storage space and if you work with wood not every day, but on occasion.

Step 1: Dimensions and part identification

Many parts have only one dimension. This is because the second is either unimportant, stated elsewhere, or depending on the thickness of the plywood. I found out this way was: 18mm, 23/32, 3/4 may be close, but small errors add up.

You will need:

4x8 sheet of plywood. I used BC. e. and it was designated 18mm.

4 pipes about 32″ long. This is a flexible part. I used 1.25 inch aluminum plugs from onlinemetals.com. They are a bit pricey with shipping but were needed as I drilled holes that were too big for my 1″ electric pipe. I plan to experiment with what you have available and what drills you have access to. A tight fit will give the best results.

8pcs x 2 3/8″ bolt

Wing nut 3/8 8pcs

Washer 3/8 16pcs

adhesive & double stick carpet tape

cookies and or drywall screws

3/4 oak dowel 36″ long

Notes:

Blue pieces and one short yellow chimney support. They are shown here but mounted under the table to keep the pipes parallel to the top.

Not all photos are 100% accurate. The first table was a glitch and some adjustments were made to the final drawings.

The bolts are overkill, but the larger ones are easier to use.

Step 2: Cut The Sequences

The idea here is to have similar pieces without moving the saw. A table saw can be used, but this was done with the circular saw and rip fence that came with it.

First Cut: Rip 24″ off the short end of 4x8 plywood. This is for the top of the table and will be the basis for many other aspects. It is important to use some of the cut. Track saw, straight edge, etc.

Second Cut: From the other end, use your own 24″ piece and subtract 4 plywood thicknesses. It should be around 21. The reason this is important is because the legs are placed on the inside of the top of the table and outside of the shelf.

Cutting them off either side gives greater accuracy.

Set these two aside and continue cutting.

The pieces are color-coded, and if they have a color or a colored dot they are one common measurement. Remember, save on the right side of your line.

Leg note: Legs should be 3″x3″ when finished. This leaf cut has the short side measured long for a rabbit. If you want glue and screw or glue and cookies the short side would be 2-1/4, or 3″ minus the thickness of the plywood!

Once all the strips are cut go back to the first 24″ wide piece done and cut that 37″ long. We cut neatly, with a guide or straight edge of some kind. Save the cut off for later as the short skirt ends up coming out of it.

The next section of the shelf is the top length. This was done with the help of the second segment. Use the top you just made as a template and subtract four plywood thicknesses. Should be around 34″. Save cut off like a short skirt the ends will be made from this.

Step 3: drilling holes, long boards

1. Take two long 3-3/4. To get the length, spread them out on top and subtract two plywood thicknesses. Draw a line. Clamp them together and cut at the same time if you can with a circular saw or miter saw. Set aside.

2. Cut off two short 4-1/2s and the remaining 3-3/4s. This aspect should be 32-3/8″ +/- so that they will fit into the shelf when all is assembled. Clamp and cut off all three at once.

3. Next, drill holes of the desired diameter, depending on which pipes you have chosen. Pay attention to the location of the link from the bottom. Mark all "bottoms" for subsequent installation. Drill holes as evenly as possible. For this I used double tape and a drill press. All pieces were stacked on a flat surface with the referenced side down. In short, they were in the center and all fit.

If you don't have a drill press, drill three 3-3/4 wide as one band, remember the center is shorter and make your marks longer. They must be ordered long, short, long. Then, using the shorter one as a template, drill two 4-1/2's wide. I would still recommend using double-sided adhesive tape.

Also pay attention. If your plywood has a good side/and a bad side that is important to you, flip the board properly. If the holes are not perfect the pipes may not allow you to do this later.

Step 4: drilling holes, short boards

1. The board supports. Cut off the remaining 4-1/2 boards to approximately 24″. I did this by cutting a 4-1/2 x 48 in half. Then add the remaining 4-1/2 and cut all three at once on a miter saw to the maximum length possible.

2. Trumpet supports. Cut long 3-3/4 in the amount of two pieces 22-3/8 +/-. They fit under the table so their actual size is 24″ minus the thickness of the plywood*2.

Similar to long boards, these must be laid and stuck together. Ideally 4-1/2, 4-1/2, 3-3/4, 3-3/4, 4-1/2 with 3-3/4 in the center. Remember bottom marks. If you need to break that I would do 3-3/4 and 4-1/2 and mark them as A. do the rest and mark them as B. You don't want to be bending the pipe to get things to fit.

Notice the holes:

My first holes were for 1″ emt wire. This stuff was cheap, but my hole was too sloppy. Thus expensive aluminum. However the 1.25 aluminum through the 1-1/4 hole drilled with the fostner bit was too tight. Ended up using a spade bit and some sanding.

Step 5: Optional Rigor

At my table I have mortised legroom. I don't think this is absolutely necessary, but it does add to the stability. That's a fair amount of work. Take it or leave it, worse is adding a few more bolts!

If you decide it should be done to the bottom of the top of the table. Ideally, before making holes and defiantly before the skirt is added.

Step 6: Gather the Top

This should go pretty fast. I used jointer biscuits. If you do, be sure to mark boards and links at the correct angles. Glue and clamp or glue and nails/screws work also.

All your pieces had a brand on the bottom. Make sure it's visible when you assemble these pieces.

Step 7: Drill in the top

There are two ways to do this.

1. Draw a 2-1/2 line all around the top. From this line of hole centers 4-3/4 apart in the short direction and 5-5/16 in the far direction. Drill away. The numbers are a little off, 1/8 maybe. With some fancy geometry you could cut through the lines if you really wanted to. 3/4″ fostner bit for best results

2. I built a jig. 9-3/4 x 37 plywood scrap. Draw the 2-1/2 line all the way around. Mark your centers 5-5/16. Install the 2-1/2 link on the drilling machine. Drill one line of the hole and just opposite two corners.

Lay the template over your top with a line of holes along the bottom edge, clamp securely. Drill. Then flip it over and align the two corner holes on the template with the two detailed ones. Insert a 3/4 inch dowel into each of the two corner holes. Again clamp and drill on the line. Next, rolled up the fishing rods, slide the template of one line, placing it in the corners.

It worked pretty well. The holes looked good, but not 90 degrees. It probably needs another jig!

Step 8: legs

A couple of ways to make legs.

Cut off all legs to 32″. It's not critical. If you have other machines you can use in conjunction with this table think that changes that. Cut as much as you can boldly at once for greater precision. Make sure you don't use more than 3" wide boards. The ones on the shelf.

We have 3″ strips and either 2-1/4″ or 2-1/2″. According to these plans 2-1/2 since there were rabbit and dado. If you want to use other methods then use 2-1/4″. Or technically 3″ minus the thickness of the plywood. In my case 18mm.

Step 9: Assemble Shelves

We've cut before. It should be about 34″ (37″ minus 4 plywood thicknesses).

We take the remaining 3 long "wide boards. Lay them out on a shelf on top and put two pieces of plywood at the end to cut the overall length. Scribe and overhang. Cut them both out at the same time. Should be about 32-1/2″.

Assemble the shelf just like you did the top. No need for additional holes or spikes.

Additionally:

Tape the long boards together and drill two more holes for the pipes. I am over the center of the shaft by 3″ of the board and about 4″ from the end. I did this much however it would be more useful if a few holes were drilled into the legs to raise and lower the shelf. I only have one shelf high.

Step 10: Leg Hole Cutting Guide and Leg Holes

This guide drills holes in the top and into the shelf precisely. This is not necessary, but if you have it turned off in all holes, then the legs will be determined specifically. This helps make the legs interchangeable.

Step 11: Shutters

Made by hand - priceless, heavy powerful countertop and storage space for yourself - also 5 points. Of course, sawing / drilling on the knee is not worth the possible savings of 1000-1300 rubles, but only if the cutting is done in a normal workshop. If there is the same dude, who has no idea about disks and other basic knowledge, is also on a staggering, “like a table” killed in the trash in a “like a workshop”, sometimes even with an amateur jigsaw, it’s easier to cut it yourself.
I will share my vision of the shortcomings, I have a table from scratch in the foreseeable future, now I live with a monster "from the store" radically altered for myself and got for free.
1. The system unit is on wheels, or rather, on powerful rollers, I didn’t have good wheels with movement in all directions, and it’s not necessary, as experience has shown, it’s enough back and forth. Firstly: it is more convenient to clean, around and under the SB. Secondly: access to the back of the system unit is seriously facilitated (it generally needs to be moved to the left, since the cabinet is on the right), it only seems that you plugged it in and forgot it once, USB extension cords do not always solve the situation completely (more precisely, they never solve it). Do not forget, together with the rollers, to provide a locking-safety bracket from any available material at the back, so that during a sharp movement towards the wall, the system manager does not drive the protruding plugs into the hole with all its foolishness.
2. A mess with cables needs to be addressed immediately and radically. Above the countertop, you can use penny ties, but they still collect dust, it’s better to come up with something with trimming a box or pipe along the far edge of the countertop. Below the tabletop, horizontal is solved by U-shaped corners on the back wall (cables are again pulled together, better in separate bundles for their intended purpose), vertically - plastic ties as a completely temporary option, optimally - ties from Velcro pieces sewn or glued to a rigid braid. One edge of the braid can be screwed to the side wall, or you can hang these rings with a cable on the nearest U-corner.
Electricity needs to be solved by two pilots with the maximum number of seats (there are never many of them, 6 + 7 is not enough for me). We go from the socket to the first pilot (you can even use an extension cable), which we hang on the side wall, between the table top and the system unit, closer to us. Be sure to leave 2-3 free cells, stick in the rest easily disconnected like charging and lighting, and most importantly, a co-pilot, of good quality and with good protection (normal filter). It can be hung on the same wall, but further away, we turn on the power supply of the SB, monitors, printer in it, which is still rarely pulled out there. You can also have a router, but ideally it’s generally in a separate outlet so that you can turn off the entire table, and the router remains working. And it doesn’t belong on the system unit, it’s better for him to live on the top shelf, all you need to do is change the standard meter short cable from the kit for a longer cable. If you catch an installer dragging the Internet to neighbors or acquaintances, it will not cost a penny, a sincere "thank you" is enough