The process of warming the floor on the loggia in steps. Insulation of the floor on the balcony: we insulate the floor on the balcony with our own hands, choosing the appropriate option We insulate the floor on the balcony

And on the balcony, even in the cold season, it will be possible to grow plants and relax, admiring the landscape outside the window. Of great importance, first of all, is the insulation of the floor on the balcony and loggia. What materials are used for this, and which ones are best suited in each case?

Before starting work on floor insulation, you should make sure that the balcony or loggia is strong. The structure must withstand a layer of insulation, and if there is any doubt about this, it is better to start work by replacing concrete slabs. A thicker layer of insulation is not always better - the floor should not be higher than in the next room. Now consider the most popular warrants of heaters.

No. 1. Styrofoam

Stone wool is produced in slabs and rolls, but it can also be in granular form and be directed to the insulated surface with a special installation to fill all the cracks. In whatever form the mineral wool is, its main advantages are:

good thermal insulation properties. The thermal conductivity coefficient is approximately on the same level as the foam, so the material will be an excellent protection and will not release valuable heat;
the ability to pass air - the microclimate of the balcony will be in perfect order;
incombustibility;
soundproofing properties;
resistance to mechanical damage;
rodents do not touch stone wool;
durability;
affordable price.

The combination of all these advantages and explain the wide distribution of the material. It is worth noting that glass wool and slag wool will cost less, but they are more fragile, and all work will need to be carried out in protective equipment.

Number 3. Expanded clay

To warm the floor on the balcony and loggia are often used. This material is made from clay, which is fired at high temperatures. As a result, oval-shaped granules with a porous structure are obtained. The material is able to make even the coldest floor warm and cozy, and this is exactly what is needed. When working with the material, it is important to take into account a number of nuances. Since expanded clay is porous, it able to absorb moisture, so the waterproofing layer must be durable and reliable. The material is very fragile must be handled with extreme caution. Expanded clay insulation technology does not allow to make a layer of insulation less than 15 cm what you need to consider so as not to get too high a floor.

Despite all the nuances of working with expanded clay, this insulation has many advantages:

light weight;
low price;
excellent indicators of heat and sound insulation;
fire resistance and frost resistance;
durability;
environmental friendliness.

No. 4. Penofol

Penofol is one of the most modern heaters that combines the advantages of polystyrene and mineral wool, but the material is very thin, so it is best suited in cases where every centimeter of space counts. Penofol consists of polyethylene foam and aluminum foil, and its action resembles an ordinary thermos. The material does not retain the heat of the room, but reflects it. Penofol is produced in rolls 3-10 mm thick.

The main advantages of the material:

Reviews of experts say that penofol is one of the best and most reliable heaters at the moment. But some shortcomings are inherent in him. So, the material is quite soft, and when installing it, it is better not to use nails so as not to violate the integrity and basic properties of the material. Despite the excellent properties of penofol, today it is usually used not as an independent insulation, but in combination with other materials.

No. 5. Foam glass

For loggias and balconies, the number of possible heaters is greatly reduced due to specific conditions. You have to refuse, for example, from, but can be used. In its composition, the material is ordinary silicate glass, but the production method allows you to add unique properties. Glass waste is crushed into powder, melted, and due to the action of a gas-forming agent in the form of coke or coal, the mass increases tenfold and acquires a porous structure. Not only is this material much lighter than glass, it has many other advantages:

Due to its high cost, foam glass is not often used for insulation of residential buildings and, especially, loggias and balconies. In terms of performance, this is an ideal heater.

What is a balcony for? Someone thinks that this is the perfect place to store car tires. Others prefer to litter it with unnecessary items. Still others, on the contrary, appreciate this part of the house and try to use it effectively - they arrange a mini-garden with flowers, a separate room, a sports corner, and so on. Obviously, in order for a balcony to bring real benefits at any time of the year, it must be insulated.

Few people understand that the sheathing of the walls of the loggia alone is not enough. It is not enough to lay insulating material on the sides, because about a quarter of the heat escapes through the lower part of the room. The question arises - how to insulate the floor on the balcony quickly, profitably and reliably? It is not necessary to resort to the help of professional finishers, because you can sheathe the room with your own hands. To do this, the right material is acquired first.

The choice of insulation for the floor of a balcony or loggia

If the tenants of the apartment are thinking about thermal insulation for the first time, there will be no problems with choosing the right material, because the range of goods on the market is huge. The following are some of the most popular balcony floor heaters and their features.

Penofol.

The material belongs to the category of new; It has been produced not too long ago. Consists of aluminum foil and polyethylene foam. In addition to thermal insulation properties, the consumer will find good hydro and sound insulation.

Penofol is a thin material produced in rolls (standard thickness is from 3 to 10 mm). It is good because it saves insulated space, pieces of material are easily connected with aluminum tape, and in general, the laying process does not take much time. There is only one drawback - the insulation is used in conjunction with foam polystyrene (foamed polystyrene), so additional costs are inevitable. Suitable for a loggia rather than a balcony.

Styrofoam.

One of the most popular heaters, regardless of the type of surface or room. It is supplied in sheets (from 2 to 10 cm thick), it is inexpensive, it guarantees complete thermal insulation due to its density and additional foaming of the cracks between itself and the lags using a sealant.

Penoplex.

The material has a low degree of vapor permeability, is immune to chemicals, is lightweight, and easy to install. Thin sheets from 2 to 5 cm also save space well. The disadvantage is the high cost; penoplex is more expensive than other heaters.

Expanded clay.

Not the best material for insulating the floor of a balcony, however, it is sometimes found. Expanded clay is hygroscopic (it removes moisture well), it is easy to work with it. There are more disadvantages - it is possible to raise the floor level, an additional layer of waterproofing is required, a high coefficient of thermal conductivity, and for good insulation you will need a thick layer of material.

Mineral wool.

The most popular option. Low coefficient of thermal conductivity (on a par with polystyrene), lightness, moisture resistance, affordable cost - this is about mineral wool. There is only one minus - during work, the material is prickly, so you need to protect the body (overalls, gloves and goggles).

It is sold in rolls or slabs with a thickness of 3 cm or more. The structure of mineral wool allows the material to fill any gap; this is in demand if an inaccuracy is made in the calculations and installation of lags.

If the consumer makes a conscious choice of a material that would last more than one decade, it is worth leaning towards one of two options - polystyrene foam or mineral wool. Having acquired the right amount of floor insulation, he can begin preparing the initial surface.

Preliminary work

The process of preparing a balcony for thermal insulation of its lower part includes the following steps:

removal of the old coating (tiles, boards are dismantled to the concrete base slab);
the coating is cleaned of debris, dirt, dust;
existing cracks or chips are covered with cement mortar so that they do not reduce the effectiveness of the insulation;
the joints of the floor with the walls are also aligned;
after the cement has dried, waterproofing is spread on the floor (a common option is roofing material; penofol is also acceptable, combining hydro- and heat-insulating properties); it is desirable that it go 10-15 cm onto the walls;
it is better to seal the waterproofing joints with adhesive tape, and in the case of penofol, cover it with sealant or mounting foam;
laying logs (wooden bars with a cross section of 40 × 40 mm or a little more are treated with an antiseptic, laid on the floor parallel to the long side of the balcony at a distance equal to the width of the insulation).

A roofing material layer is not necessary, but it is better not to neglect it, especially when it comes to the balcony of the first floor of an apartment building.

The cross section of the lags should also be selected depending on the thickness of the insulation. Small wedges are used to level the bars. To give the structure stability, the exposed logs are fastened with self-tapping screws, the outer ones are fixed to the balcony with dowels.

Insulation laying technology

After completing the draft and preparatory work, they proceed to the installation of the selected material. The following steps are taken:

foam plastic (or mineral wool) is laid between the lags; in the first case, a small gap between the insulation and the bar (1-2 mm) is permissible, in the second case, the cotton wool should be slightly compressed in order to fit into the prepared cavity;
gaps are foamed with mounting foam or sealant;
a layer of vapor barrier is laid on top of the resulting surface (special film, membrane or foamed polyethylene);
with staples (construction stapler), it is attached to the logs, the joints are glued with adhesive tape;
it is advisable to lay another layer of waterproofing so that the insulation is protected from above and below;
on top of the lags, a counter-lattice of bars of smaller thickness is mounted in order to ensure normal ventilation under the floor.

Finishing work

When the insulation and additional layers are fixed, a subfloor is laid on the crate. To do this, use fiberboard, simple boards like inches, plywood, special drywall. It is not necessary to fix them close to the wall, it is better to leave a gap of 3-5 mm in case of possible expansion of the draft material due to various factors. You can immediately lay flat boards that will be the finishing floor. Moreover, it is not much, but it will significantly save space.

When the floor is insulated, there are immediately more options for using the balcony. A competent choice of material and compliance with thermal insulation technology is the key to a long service life of the premises for the benefit of the residents of the house.

A lot of people nowadays are finishing their balcony, turning it, in fact, into a real room, albeit small, but ideal for relaxing. Thanks to aluminum, plastic windows and other modern facing materials, on such a balcony you can not be afraid of the riot of summer weather. But with the onset of other seasons, it can become cold and uncomfortable on the loggia, especially if you look at the floor. At this time, many begin to wonder about how to insulate the floor on the balcony with their own hands with the highest quality and with a minimum of investment? What can be done for year-round use of your favorite vacation spot?

What is needed for floor insulation?

It is quite obvious that work is required not only on the floor - the walls of the loggia or balcony also need both finishing and thermal insulation! Insulating only one floor is pointless. Finishing the above room in Eurostyle, it can be turned into a real, albeit small, year-round terrace or. There are several ways to do this.

The easiest option: lay a thermal insulation layer between the floor and the surface of the ceiling plate. At the moment, there is a whole range of the most modern materials intended for this.

Video instruction

Deciding on the material

Mineral (rottisite) wool

This material is widely known and has stood the test of time. Belongs to the group of inorganic heaters, made from glass fibers, basalt and slag. Rottisite wool is famous for its fire resistance (especially basalt wool), impermeability, passivity to chemical attack. Plus, it never gets moldy. In addition, due to the structure and softness, mineral wool has an advantage over other heaters in that it can be pushed into the smallest cracks.

But she has a serious drawback - when working with her, precautions must be taken:

You can not take mineral wool with unprotected gloves;
It is necessary to use a respirator;
If possible, wear a protective suit.

Rottisite wool, in the process of working with it, scatters around tiny, almost invisible particles of dust and fibers, which can settle in the respiratory organs of nearby people, get into the eyes and skin, causing allergies, severe itching and more unpleasant consequences. And cheap grades of mineral wool can release phenol, which is known to be very toxic.

Styrofoam

Of all the options - the most popular and cheapest! On sale you can find plates of the required thickness, so that you can raise the balcony floor during insulation to the required level. Having cut pieces of a suitable size, the foam is laid between the balcony surface covering and the slab. Foam is used to fill gaps and gaps. Among its advantages, water resistance and resistance to mold and fungus can also be noted. Unfortunately, the foam is very fragile, inflexible, and crumbles over time. In addition, it is highly flammable.

Penoplex (expanded polystyrene)

In fact, this is an improved foam. Unlike its predecessor, it is lighter, more durable - thanks to its flexibility, it does not burn, it is chemically inert.

Penoplex is produced in sheets with a thickness of 20 - 50 mm. This thermal insulator is very convenient to use, despite its high cost, in this case it is one of the most suitable materials for insulating a balcony from the inside.

Penofol

Penofol is the most technologically advanced insulation. It is a polyethylene foam with a closed cell structure, covered with foil on one or both sides. Is issued in rolls. Due to its flexibility, it is very convenient for laying and installation.

Double-sided penofol is best suited not only to protect the floor, but also to provide waterproofing, including protection against condensation. For fastening the joints and edges of the strips use special aluminum film.

Preparatory work

First you need to check with the organization responsible for the operation of the building whether work related to the weighting of the slab is allowed. If permission is obtained, the first step is to clean the floor surface. Uneven surface, damage, all kinds of cracks are common for balcony slabs. The most suitable option is a screed.

Solution

When laying the screed, do not forget the main thing: the coating should not be heavy and thick, while being as strong as possible - to avoid cracking, but at the same time as thin as possible!

The use of perlite and expanded clay gives just such a result. Perlite is more difficult to handle, requiring mixing with a concrete mixer. It follows that it is more accessible in this regard.

The composition of the solution:

1) Cement mixed with expanded clay - 1 part. As a rule, the ratio is 1: 1, but to lighten the weight, you can make a mixture with a cement share of about 25%.

2) Building sand - 3 parts. Quarry or coastal sand is not suitable, sand is needed for construction work: cleaned and sifted.

3) Lime - 0.1 parts.

The dry composition is mixed until a uniform color is obtained, carefully and accurately! After that, water should be added little by little, without stopping mixing, until the solution has the consistency of thick sour cream.

Laying screed on the balcony

Given the minimum thickness of the floor screed: about 4 - 5 cm, beacons will not be needed when working with balconies.

The entire balcony area is completely waterproofed along the perimeter. This is done using self-adhesive tape or polyurethane foam. Bitumen, due to the small amount of work, is practically not used anywhere.
The screed layer is laid out from the beginning of the corners farthest from the door.
The layer is "stretched" as you work, aligning with the help of a rule. The spirit level from time to time controls the level of the floor.

You can clearly see how the screed is made with your own hands in the following video:

The screed is thoroughly dried! After two or three days, the surface can already withstand walking on it, but it is worth using it. not earlier than in 10 - 12 days. During this time, the floor is wetted twice a day and covered with a film. All this is done to give the screed maximum strength.

floor construction

If you want to raise the balcony floor above the rest, it is advisable to consider the presence of a pocket near the door - a recess, to prevent moisture from seeping into the room. But basically, the coating with insulation is arranged at a height close to the floor of the adjoining room or slightly underestimated.

Materials and tools:

insulation;
Roulette;
Wood saw or electric jigsaw;
Logs of the required thickness or a wooden beam (with a section approximately up to the middle of the lift height);
Cylinder of polyurethane foam;
Flooring materials: plywood (thick), boards, chipboard (for laying it directly on the logs, the thickness should be 16 - 18 mm).

Ten-millimeter sheets are placed on an unusable coating or a pre-made plank "grid". Plywood or thin chipboard is usually used only for leveling the surface.

The whole process is divided into several stages.

Timber preparation

For laying across a balcony or loggia, a beam is cut. In this case, the distance to the walls is observed within 5 cm.

Beam installation

Cut-off elements are laid at a distance of 0.5 m. It is most convenient to attach them to the balcony slabs by using self-tapping screws - “new settlers” with a plastic plug for inserting into concrete. In order to avoid splitting, it is worth leaving a distance of about 7-10 cm from the edge of the beam to the first self-tapping screw. During this work, you can practically not monitor the floor level, this will be done in the future.

Insulation laying

You can simplify the work by laying the beam in one layer, forming a grid, laying gaps with insulation, but this is not very convenient. In this case, each piece of timber will need to be carefully controlled. And there will be many such segments, moreover, of a smaller size. This will certainly affect the overall thermal insulation of the coating for the worse. But this approach will not allow the balcony floor to rise above the required level.

Popular technologies for the "year-round" loggia

It happens that for some apartment owners it is not enough just to insulate the floor on the balcony with their own hands, and they do not stop there. They need not just additional meters in the home, but comfort for a good rest. First of all - temperature, therefore, then the matter behind the heating system.

It is important to mention that the apartment should not have any branches from the heating plant of the house, only an autonomous structure can be implemented! A heat transfer coefficient of 150 W/m2 is the norm for an average supply temperature of 18°C.

PLEN - film electric heating (cable film floor)

Technology does not stand still, which made it possible to heat the room very economically with the help of electricity. Actually, we are talking about a film made of a carbon-based resistive component. When turned on, the material starts to heat up. The temperature is easily controlled by adjusting the input parameter. By installing the heating system, passive insulation is simultaneously produced. Next, the floor is covered with a thermal insulator for film heating.

Film blocks are placed on top, and a connection to the electrical network is made. Parts are fixed with double-sided tape. A laminate, linoleum or carpet is laid on top, designed specifically for underfloor heating. The whole procedure is simple, and with the help of a conventional input rheostat, heating is very easily and effectively regulated.

Cable electric heaters

Despite the different execution, the principle is the same as that of the cable film floor. It does not need to be connected from different parts, it is enough just to lay it in its entirety. If necessary, it is placed on glue, covered with ceramic tiles on top or hidden in concrete.

If there is no need to save electricity, then everything is much simpler. According to the method described above, a leveling primary screed is made. No false floor required. Everything is laid in layers:

Heating heat insulator;
Reinforcing welded mesh;
Heating cable;
Adhesive composition or thin concrete screed 3-5 cm thick.

When the last step is completed, tiles are laid simultaneously. Ceramics, if used, must be compatible with underfloor heating.

The above work is quite simple, but with a similar layout of energy for heating, more will be required.

Mini modules for water heating systems

Now more and more widespread are ready-made solutions, the so-called "contour systems" or "warm skirting boards". If complex, then such solutions are as follows:

A water-heating electric boiler is no larger than a kettle.
Small priming pump.
Control and temperature controller.

Water circulates through a thin tube. This design is laid according to the description above, just like an electric cable or a classic water floor.

The volume of liquid in the system is from 3 to 5 liters, that is, it is minimal. Due to the rapid circulation of water, the floor surface warms up evenly, and the system uses little energy. The system compares favorably with a film or cable in that it retains heat longer, since it has thermal inertia. But where there is a risk of cooling a balcony or loggia below zero, you should use frost-resistant mixtures otherwise the water will freeze and damage the thin tubes.

What is the best option?

If you clearly set a task for yourself, knowing exactly what should happen in the end, then after carrying out simple work, the balcony will become comfortable, and possibly your favorite place to relax. And probably an additional room, especially when using an autonomous heating system. The choice of options is such that anyone can choose the best one for themselves, especially since large financial investments are not required. Need underfloor heating? Make it yourself!

In order to turn a balcony into a full-fledged room for work and rest from a cluttered and cold “cubby” used for storing unnecessary things, you need to work hard. And, first of all, to solve one of the main issues related to the alteration of this room - how to insulate the floor on the balcony?

Positive aspects of insulation

It may seem to someone that the cost of insulating a balcony is an "excessive luxury" that is available only to wealthy people who "have nowhere to put their money." However, this is not at all the case, because providing high-quality thermal insulation is the only way to make a balcony habitable, and, therefore, increase the area of your apartment by several square meters. So, it is impossible to neglect this stage of improvement.

In addition, the advantages of insulating the floor and other surfaces on the balcony are quite obvious. The basis of this room is made up of concrete slabs, which are characterized by low thermal insulation characteristics. They can freeze when exposed to negative temperatures in the cold season and collect condensate on themselves. So, without insulating the balcony, it is simply impossible to make a quality repair on it and use it to the full as a living room. In addition, the advantages of floor insulation on the balcony include:

The possibility of reducing the overall heat loss in the apartment and improving the microclimate in the room adjacent to the balcony.
Expansion of useful living space, which is especially important for small-sized apartments.
Ensuring better soundproofing of the apartment.

Preparatory work and tools

Do-it-yourself floor insulation on the balcony begins with the stage of preparation for the main work. It consists of several consecutive operations. These include:

Balcony glazing.
Dismantling of the old flooring.
Thorough cleaning of the base of the balcony from the remnants of construction dust and debris. If the pollution is very high, you can carry out a full-fledged wet cleaning here. However, in this case, the following work on the balcony can only be started after the final drying of its concrete base.
Sealing of cavities and cracks in the base. To do this, the potholes and cracks on the floor of the balcony must first be embroidered with a grinder, and then filled with cement-sand or epoxy (if necessary, to maximize the acceleration of work time) solution.
Filling the joints of the floor with walls and fencing slabs with cement mortar or mounting foam. Priming of the insulated surface.
Implementation of waterproofing the base of the balcony.

In order for the planned work to be completed quickly and efficiently, you should stock up on the appropriate tools and equipment, including:

Hammer, construction knife and pistol.
Drill with a puncher and nozzles for screwing dowels.
Electric jigsaw.
Roulette and pencil.
Self-tapping screws and dowels.

Features of floor insulation under tile flooring

As a material for finishing the floor on the balcony, ceramic tiles are very often used. It is quite inexpensive, looks attractive and lasts for a long period of time, not being afraid of changes in temperature and humidity. However, due to the fact that ceramic tiles have a fairly high level of thermal conductivity, most of the time they are cool and even cold. That is, the sensations from touching such a floor with your feet will not be very pleasant. Therefore, the finishing floor covering of this type requires particularly careful insulation.

A good solution to the problem, as it should be, is to use the "Warm floor" system, which is laid in a cement screed or directly in tile adhesive.

And now we invite you to watch a video on how to insulate the floor on the balcony. The video shows an option using mineral wool.

It is now difficult to find a balcony without a minimum finish. Metal-plastic windows and modern finishing materials allow you to turn it into a real extra room or place to relax. Everything works great in the summer. But autumn, winter, spring are periods of the year when it is uncomfortable on the balcony. The air temperature drops, and the floor becomes especially cold. Many are wondering how to provide maximum convenience and make the conditions on the balcony "all-weather".

It should be noted right away that without finishing the walls of a balcony or loggia, as well as their thermal insulation, there will be no sense in working on floor insulation. If the balcony is already made in Eurostyle, there are several ways to make it a real room with a comfortable year-round temperature.

The easiest method is to use passive insulation. A layer of thermal insulator is laid between the surface of the ceiling plate and the floor. Today, there are a number of modern materials that are specifically designed for such purposes.

The most "advanced" and modern material. Structurally, it is a foamed polyethylene protected by an aluminum film. The insulation layer is flexible, which allows for convenient installation and installation.

There are options on the market with one-sided and two-sided metal foil protection. If you want to not only protect the floor, but also provide waterproofing, which includes insulation from condensate, it is better to use double-sided penofol. The material is produced in rolls, and to connect the strips and pieces, the joints are glued with a special aluminum film.

The best level of heat retention is achieved when penofol is used in conjunction with another heater, for example, penoplex.

The cheapest and most common option. There are plates of various thicknesses, which is very convenient when insulating the floor with raising the level. The foam is cut into pieces of the desired size and placed between the slab and the surface of the balcony. All cracks and gaps are filled with mounting foam. The disadvantage of polystyrene is that it is hard, rather brittle, and a lot of small debris is formed when working with it.

Expanded polystyrene foam, aka polystyrene

This material was created as a standard of insulation. Its characteristics are selected with maximum compliance with the requirements of thermal insulation, as well as fire, environmental and biological safety. Penoplex is lightweight, flexible enough, it does not rot, does not burn, is chemically inert, and does not serve as a “home” for fungus or mold.

The material is produced in sheets, the thickness of which is from 20 to 50 millimeters. Penoplex comes first in terms of cost, but it is the best thermal insulator that is convenient to work with.

Old and proven stuff. Made from fiberglass or basalt threads. Mineral wool does not absorb moisture, does not burn, is inert to chemical attack, mold does not multiply in it. Unlike other heaters, it can be pushed into any gap.

The disadvantage is that protective gloves and a suit should be used when working, since mineral wool fibers are very fragile and sharp. When penetrating into human skin, it is almost impossible to pull them out - they break off. Therefore, mineral wool is prickly and causes severe itching.

Preparation for work

The first thing to do is tidy up the floor surface. Balcony slab often contains cracks and fractures along the edges, in addition, it often has an uneven surface. The best way out is to make a screed. Before deciding on the production of such work, be sure to consult with the organization responsible for the operation of the house. Perhaps, for safety reasons, it is not worth making the stove heavier.

Solution preparation

If the house is new enough and the balcony is not threatened with demolition, you can start laying the screed. The main thing here is to remember that you should not make a thick and heavy coating. The coating mass should be as thin as possible and at the same time as strong as possible so as not to crack at a minimum thickness.

Excellent results are obtained by the use of expanded clay and perlite. Perlite requires a complex mixing technique that is best done with a concrete mixer. Therefore, expanded clay is more often used at home.

The composition of the solution for work is as follows:

3 parts building sand. Typed "in nature" or quarry sand will not work, you need sifted and cleaned for construction work;
1 part cement mixed with expanded clay. The usual proportion is equally. However, to reduce the mass, you can make a composition where cement is only 25%;
0.1 parts lime.

The entire dry mixture is thoroughly mixed until a uniform color is obtained. Then water is gradually added and kneading is done until the composition acquires the consistency of thick sour cream.

Screeding

The next step is laying the screed. In the case of a balcony, you can do without the use of beacons, since the screed layer will be thin, about 4-5 cm.

The entire balcony is waterproofed around the perimeter. This can be done using mounting foam or a special self-adhesive tape. Due to the small amount of work, bitumen is rarely used.
Starting from the corners farthest from the door, a layer of screed is laid out.
In the course of work, the layer is "stretched" and aligned using the rule. The floor level is periodically controlled by a long spirit level.

The screed must be thoroughly dried. The surface is walkable after 2-3 days, however, it is better to withstand a minimum of 10-12 by wetting the floor twice a day and covering with a film. So the screed will gain maximum strength.

floor construction

The insulation cover should be built at a level close to the floor of the adjacent room. More often it is made equal or slightly lower. If you need something relatively common in the apartment, it is better to provide a small recess-pocket at the door to prevent moisture from penetrating into the room.

For work you will need tools and materials

Roulette.
Jigsaw or wood saw.
Wooden beam of the desired section (about half the height of the lift) or logs of the appropriate thickness.
Insulation.
Material for the floor surface: board, sheets of thick plywood, chipboard (with a thickness of 16-18 mm, you can lay it directly on the logs).
A balloon of building foam.

10 mm sheets are stacked on a pre-created "grid" of boards or low-quality coating. Usually thin chipboard or plywood serves only as a means of leveling the surface.

The work is carried out in several stages.

A timber of the required size is cut for laying across the balcony. The gap to the walls should be about 5 cm.

The cut parts are stacked at a distance of half a meter. They need to be attached to the surface of the balcony slab. The most convenient way to do this is with the help of "new settlers" - self-tapping screws with a plastic plug that is inserted into the concrete. To avoid splitting, the distance from the edge of the timber to the first self-tapping screw is left 7-10 cm. At this stage, you can hardly follow the final level of the floor - this task will be performed by subsequent work.

When foam or foam plastic is used, the material is cut into the necessary pieces to fill the gaps between the timber. Another recommendation: the level of insulation should be flush with or slightly below the surface of the timber. The gaps should be minimal. Wherever necessary, gaps are foamed. When using mineral wool, the insulation is tightly laid in the free space.

Penofol fits easier. A long strip is cut off in size 40 cm larger than the length of the balcony. It is simply laid on top, so that there is approximately 200 mm of “extra” insulation around the perimeter. If it is necessary to connect the pieces, the laying is done with an overlap with sizing with aluminum tape.

Level alignment

The level for laying the surface is finally leveled and an air gap is created for thermal protection. For this, bars are cut for longitudinal laying. In size - the length of the balcony minus 5 cm. The blanks are stacked, while the final level is carefully controlled. Linings are used on the basis of transverse bars.

Boards or other material are sewn on - chipboard, plywood, etc.

As a result, a flat surface is formed on the balcony, which has complex properties. It combines insulation, an air layer to dampen heat transfer and prevent moisture condensation phenomena. On such a coating, ceramic tiles, linoleum or laminate can be laid.

To simplify the work, you can lay the beam in one layer, forming a grid and laying gaps with insulation. This is not so convenient, since you will have to carefully control the level of each piece of timber, which will be many and smaller. The overall thermal insulation of the coating will be worse. However, this approach saves the height of the balcony floor level.

Technological methods for creating an "all-weather" balcony

A heating system is being created on the balcony. It should be noted right away that branches from the central heating system of the house are unacceptable. An autonomous structure is being built. The norm for ensuring a standard temperature of 18 ° C is an indicator of heat transfer power of 150 W / sq. m.

"Film" heating

Modern technologies have allowed the emergence of a means for a fairly economical electric heating. Structurally, this is a film of a carbon-based resistive element. When voltage is applied, the material heats up, and the temperature can be easily controlled by adjusting the input parameter. During the construction of heating on the balcony, passive insulation is made according to the method described above. The next step is to cover the floor with a special heat insulator for film heating.

Blocks of film are laid on top and connections to the mains are brought out. Parts are secured with double sided tape. Linoleum, carpet or laminate is laid on top, which are designed to work in conjunction with a “warm floor”. The work is simple, and the heating is quite efficient and easily regulated using a simple input rheostat.

Electric cable heaters

The technology used is the same as that of the film elements, just a different design. The cable is flexible, it is easy to lay it in one piece, without resorting to connecting different pieces. In addition, you can “brick” it into concrete or adhesive, on which ceramic tiles are placed.

If you do not feel sorry for electricity, you can go the minimal way. On the balcony, a primary leveling screed is made, as described above. Raised floor covering is not constructed. A heating thermal insulator is immediately laid, a welded reinforcing mesh is laid and a cable for heating is located. A laying layer is formed on top. It can be a thin three- or five-centimeter concrete screed, or immediately a layer of adhesive. Tiles are installed at the same time.

Work gets done easier. However, this approach will require more energy for heating. If the floor is covered with ceramic, it must be operationally compatible with the "warm floor".

Video - Heated floor on the balcony

Mini water heating systems

Today, ready-made electrical solutions of the “warm plinth” format, they are also the “contour system”, are spreading quite quickly. Structurally, this is:

a small electric hot water boiler, about the size of a kettle;
small priming pump;
temperature control and control unit.

The coolant circulates through a thin tube. Such a structure is laid in the same way as a classic underfloor heating or electric cable, as described above.

The volume of coolant in the structure is minimal, about 3-5 liters. The system takes away little power, the water circulates very quickly, so the floor surface will be evenly warm. Unlike a cable or a film, such a solution has thermal inertia, that is, the system does not cool down immediately. However, the use is fraught with danger - if the temperature drops below freezing, the water will freeze and damage the pipes. Frost-resistant mixtures should be provided as a heat carrier where the climate carries the danger of cooling the balcony below zero.

What to choose for warming?

Creating a warm floor on the balcony is a fairly simple task that even beginners can handle. You just need to know how to approach the problem. With the help of a number of simple works that you can do with your own hands, the balcony will become a warm and comfortable place to relax. And the use of an autonomous heating system will easily turn it into another room in the apartment. In addition, all works do not require large investments of funds. So, if you want underfloor heating on your balcony, just make it.