Sliding bookcases with their own hands. How to make a bookcase with your own hands. Cabinet making process

This classic cabinet has a drawer at the bottom to keep your folders close at hand. Even when fully loaded, it extends and retracts with ease, moving along reinforced guides. To make the connections of the parts of the box, you only need one simple setup of the saw machine, which is described in this article.

Glazed doors open easily by sliding up and into the body.
The drawer has hanging file holders.
For the manufacture of joints, a type-setting groove disk, counter-profile and double-sided figure cutters are required.

Any body starts from the side walls

1. Start by gluing panel blanks for panels BUT. While the glue dries, cut out blanks from the 19 mm thick board for the upper / lower AT crossbars, middle FROM, front D and rear E racks and faceplates F (Fig. 1).

After attaching the wooden extension pad and locking block to the corner (moving) stop of the saw, file the top / bottom crossbars and mullions to the final length. Rearrange the stopper bar and saw off the length of the front and rear pillars and front linings. Set the pads aside.

2. Attach the counter-profile cutter to the router collet in the table and align the router table rip fence flush with the cutter bearing (photo A, AT). Mill the counter profile at the ends of the top/bottom rails AT and middlemen FROM, using a retaining bar-pusher (photo C).

Adjust the overhang of the counter-profile cutter so that the upper cutting edge of the lower incisors is 8 mm above the table surface (photo A). Then set the table rip fence flush with the cutter bearing (photo B). Using a pusher bar to stabilize the workpiece and prevent chipping on the back edge (photo C), mill the ends of the horizontal frame parts, laying them face down.

3. Mount the profile cutter, adjust its reach (see "Craftsman's Tip" below) and align the rip fence flush with the cutter bearing. Turning the blanks face down, grind the inner edges of the top / bottom rails AT, front D and rear E racks and both edges of the mullions FROM.

In order for the horizontal B, C and vertical D, E frame parts to be located in the same plane at the joints of the joints, it is not necessary to make measurements. It is sufficient to use the part with the counter-profile milled as a template when setting the profile cutter overhang. Position the profile cutter so that the tongue-forming cutters are flush with the ridge at the end of the horizontal piece.

By aligning the strips of masking tape with each other, you will be able to quickly set the mullions C into the desired position during gluing. Wooden pressure bars will prevent dents on the edges of the D, E pillars.

4. Dry (without glue) connect the crossbars B, C and racks D, E. Position the mullions FROM so that three openings of equal length are formed. Quick tip! Sticky label. A strip of masking tape pasted across each of the mullion-stud joints will speed up the alignment of the parts during the gluing process. Measure the width and height of the openings and add 14 mm to each of the obtained dimensions. Take out the panels BUT and cut them down to that size.

5. Install a figurine (panel) cutter into the collet of the router fixed in the table and mill the profile along the edges of all panels BUT. Connect dry panels, crossbars B, C and racks D, E checking the fit of the parts to each other.

6. Separate the parts, sand the panels with sandpaper up to 220 grit and apply a finishing coat to them. (We covered them with a layer of linseed oil, applied with a cloth swab, and then one layer of semi-matt polyurethane varnish. The second layer of varnish will be applied after the cabinet is assembled.) Sand the milled profile on the uprights, then glue the side walls A-E (a photoD), inserting rubber gaskets for panels into the tongues of the frames (Fig. 1).

This simple adjustment will ensure that the edges of the faceplates F are milled identically. The width of the vertical stop is equal to the diameter of the bearing of the cutter, to which should be added the width of the chamfer multiplied by 2. So, when using a cutter with a bearing with a diameter of 12 mm and a chamfer width of 10 mm, the stop must be made 32 mm wide. Center the stop exactly on the axis of the cutter. Then, attach a 76 mm long stop bar to one edge of the front pad, and 114 mm long to the other, aligning the ends of the bars and the pads flush. To mill a chamfer, move the pad to the cutter so that the left stop bar touches the left edge of the stop (see fig. a photo), and move the pad along the parallel stop until the right block touches the stop. Unfold the part and mill the second chamfer. By attaching the stop bars to the other face pad and repeating these steps, you will get four perfectly matched bevels.

Connect the side walls

1. Install a slotted disc in the saw, adjusting its thickness to the thickness of the shelves H, and attach a wooden cleat to the parallel fence of the machine. Partially covering the disk with a wooden stop plate, cut a fold along the rear edge of both C-pillars E (photo E and rice. one).

On each side wall, cut a 6 x 10 mm rebate along the rear edge of the C-pillar. The back wall K will be installed in these folds.

Pressing first one edge of the side wall A-E, and then the other, against the parallel stop, cut out the grooves. For stability when machining large parts, attach a long extension pad to the miter gauge of the saw machine.

2. Adjust the rip fence so that the width of the open part of the disc is equal to the thickness of the top/bottom panels G. Cut seams along the top and bottom edges of the side walls A-E from the inside. Now remove the wood stop, place the machine rip fence 375mm from the blade and cut two slots in each of the side walls. (a photoF, rice. one).

Glue the shelves H/1 into the grooves of the side walls A-F and fix them with clamps using pressure bars and mounting brackets.

3. Mill on the front edges of the faceplates F partial chamfers (Fig. 1,« »).

4. Glue the face pads F in front of each of the side walls A-E, aligning their ends and outer edges. Note.Make sure that the 114mm bevelled patch is facing up and that the finished sidewalls are mirror copies of each other.(Fig. 1). Finish sanding the assembled sidewalls with sandpaper up to 220 grit.

5. Cut the top/bottom panels according to the indicated dimensions G and shelves H. Cut out the edge trims of the shelves I, glue them to the parts and press with clamps (Fig. 2). Finish the shelves H/ I sandpaper up to 220 grit, and then connect them to the side walls A-F, as shown in a photoG. Install the lid and bottom (see " ").

6. Cut out the edging J for the top/bottom panels, adjusting their length to the distance between the faceplates F. Glue the edge strips in place, aligning them flush with the top side of the lid and the bottom side of the bottom (Fig. 2).

7. Cut out the back wall from 6 mm plywood To according to the distance between the folds of the side walls A-F. The top and bottom edges of the back wall must be flush with the top side of the top panel. G and the bottom side of the bottom panel G corps (Fig. 2). Drill pilot holes and temporarily screw the back wall to check the dimensions, then remove it for easier access to the inside of the case during further work.

Master's advice. Make no mistake with the angle

By screwing the screw at a right angle into the 10 mm rebate of the top and bottom rails B, you risk damaging the inside of the parts. To prevent this, tilt the screw slightly towards the outside of the part. (Fig. 2a). Drilling angled pilot holes for screws can be made easier by using a 10° beveled piece of wood (photo on the right).

Top and bottom waistbands add to the charm

1. Saw out the front L, side M and rear N straps of the upper / lower waist frames, as well as the front O, side R and rear Q extension bars. The width of the blanks for these parts is indicated in the "List of Materials", and the length must be 13 mm more than specified. On one of the edges of the front and side strips of the upper / lower waist frame, mill the profile in the form of a roller (Fig. 3a). Next, saw out on one face of these parts, as well as on two opposite faces of the bars of the extension, tongues 3 mm wide, which serve to trap excess glue (Fig. 2a and 3).

Having pressed the front bar of the waist frame L to the body with a clamp, press the bevel of the side bar M to its end and mark its final length.

2. File the bevels at both ends of the front bezel of the top waist frame L so that its length is 32 mm longer than the width of the case.

File the bevel at one end of each of the side slats of the top waist frame. M. Use clamps to clamp the front strap of the top waist frame against the top panel of the cabinet, centering it and setting the front overhang to 16mm. Press the side straps of the waist frame against it and mark their final length. (photo H). Cut the side strips to length, then glue the front and side strips of the waist frame to the body and additionally secure them with screws. Cut the back plank to length N waist frame, adjusting its length to the distance between the side bars (Fig. 3), glue and fasten it with screws. Repeat in the same sequence with the details of the lower waist frame. Sand the frames with sandpaper up to 220 grit.

3. Measure the overhang of the upper waist frame L-N relative to the top rails AT and face pads F side walls (Fig. 2a). Transfer this dimension to the upper side of the upper waist frame and draw lines along these marks parallel to the outer edges of the parts. File the bevels at the ends of the front O and side R extension bars in the same way as they did with the belt frames, so that the length of the bars corresponds to the length of the applied lines (Fig. 2a). Sand the front and sides of the extension with 220 grit sandpaper and glue them to the top waist frame. Cut out the rear extension bar Q, adjusting its length to the distance between the side bars, finally sand it and also glue it in place.

Glue corner bosses T to the front R and side S boards of the base to reinforce the joints at the mustache and ensure squareness.

4. Bevel the ends of the front board R base, at the same time sawing it to the final length, then make bevels and saw the side boards along the length S grounds (Fig. 3). Mill a fillet with a radius of 13 mm along the upper edge of these parts, and then mark the contours of the cutouts on them. Cut out the cutouts with a band saw and smooth the edges of the cuts.

5. Cut out six corner bosses with a band saw T according to the shape and dimensions indicated on rice. 3b. Glue the front R and side S base boards, installing a boss in each corner (photo I). Glue the remaining corner bosses to the back ends of the side boards. (Fig. 3), then glue and fasten with screws inside each connection on the mustache the support bosses U (Fig. 3). Drill mounting holes in the remaining two support bosses, countersink them, and glue the bosses to the front base plate at regular intervals.

6. Turn the case over and attach the base to it, aligning their back sides and centering them widthwise. Drill and countersink mounting holes in the corner bosses T and through them, as well as through the holes in the support bosses U screw in the screws (Fig. 3).

7. Cut the lid according to the indicated dimensions V, as well as the front W and side X edge strips with a width specified in the "List of Materials" and a length 13 mm more than specified. File the bevels at the ends of the overlays, adjusting their length to the size of the cover (Fig. 2). On the lower edge of all overlays, mill a rounding with a radius of 13 mm (Fig. 2a). Then finish sanding the cover and glue it to the extension O-Q, aligning the back sides and centering in width.

Door frames and drawer trim

1. Measure the openings for the doors and drawer. Cut out the crossbars Y, the length of which should be less than the width of the corresponding opening by 97 mm, and the posts Z length 6 mm less than the height of the corresponding opening. Note.If both pairs of posts are different lengths, mark them according to the openings. Drill holes in the door posts with a diameter of 12 mm and a depth of 16 mm (Fig. 4). Glue the shield for the drawer bezel panel AA and put it aside temporarily.

2. Using a set of cutters, make counter-profile connections of the crossbars Y and racks Z frames in the same way as in the manufacture of side walls A-F. Saw the drawer false panel panel according to the indicated dimensions AA, and then mill the profile at its edges (Fig. 5). Finish the panel with sandpaper up to 220 grit and apply a finishing coat.

3. Glue the doors and make sure they are square and not skewed. Then glue into the holes of the racks Z dowels and file them to the specified length (Fig. 4). By inserting rubber gaskets into the grooves of the frame of the drawer false panel and inserting the panel AA, glue the frame (Fig. 5).

4. Let the glue dry, and then, using a router with a seam cutter, make 10 mm wide folds on the back of the door frames for installing glass and glazing beads. Clean the corners of the folds with a chisel, then finish sanding the doors and drawer bezel Y/Z/AA. Prepare four bead BB 965 mm long, sand them with sandpaper to 220 grit and set aside.

5. Glue the blanks for the guide supports of the doors / drawer SS and file them to the indicated dimensions. Set aside two of them - you will need them later, when installing the box. In the four door supports, saw out a 14 mm wide tongue and drill two blind holes with a diameter of 12 mm and two mounting holes countersunk to a diameter of 10 mm (Fig. 6). You should get two pairs of mirror-symmetrical supports. Sand the supports with sandpaper up to 220 grit, then saw off two dowels with a diameter of 12 mm for each of the supports (Fig. 6). Glue dowels 51 mm long into the holes in the tongues intended for them. Set the 32 mm dowels aside until the doors are installed.

6. Attach door supports SS screws to the body (a photoJ). Insert the doors into the guide posts on the back of the chassis (photo K), then insert into the holes of the supports (but do not glue) dowels 32 mm long. Install door handles (Fig. 2).Quick tip! Well-defined markup. When marking the holes for the fixing screws of the handles, stick masking tape on the lower crossbars of the doors, on which the markings will be better visible.

Attach the bottom door supports CC by pushing them against the underside of shelf H. Use 6mm spacers to properly position the top door supports.

Insert the door into the supports at the back of the case, bottom edge first, so that it passes over the dowels in the CC supports.

7. Make door stops DD according to the dimensions shown on rice. 4a. Temporarily attach a rubber damper to each stop with double-sided tape. Glue the stops to the shelves H so that the front of the door is flush with the front edge of the shelf edging I. Reinstall the back wall To.

Make install drawer

1. Glue 12mm thick panel boards for front/rear HER and side FF drawer walls. After the glue dries, file them to the indicated sizes.

2. Place a 6 mm thick slotted blade in the saw and raise it 6 mm above the saw table. With the rip fence set at a distance of 6 mm from the disk, cut out the grooves along the ends of the side walls FF. On the inside side and front/rear HER the walls of the box, cut out the tongue to insert the bottom GG (Fig. 5). Fasten a wooden pad on the parallel stop of the machine, cut out the folds along the ends of the front and rear walls HER, forming a ridge included in the grooves of the side walls (Fig. 5a, step 2).

3. Cut out the bottom according to the indicated dimensions GG and glue the box, checking its squareness by measuring the diagonals.

Place the drawer and bezel on stands and the rail on a workbench to provide clearance for the drawer to fit into the cabinet.

Using a piece of wood and the marks on the CC drawer supports, attach the rails to the supports with screws.

4. Place a drawer EE-GG on supports with a thickness of 6 mm and attach a false panel to it with clamps Y/Z/AA so that it also rests on the stands (a photoL). Lay on a workbench along each side of the drawer FF telescopic guide with a distance of 3 mm from the rack Z false panel frames. Attach the rails to the side walls with two screws. Take the drawer supports SS and align their front ends with the front side of the false panel. Mark the position of the front end of each rail on the supports. Remove the rails from the sides of the drawer and attach them to the supports (photo M).

5. Remove the rails and install the drawer supports SS to the body (a photoN). Then put the rails back in place by screwing the screws into the holes in the supports and side walls of the FF. Insert the box into the case.

Insert 6 mm thick spacers under the drawer supports CC to raise them flush with the top side of the bottom edging J.

Drill pilot holes with a diameter of 2.8 mm at the locations of the handles and temporarily attach the false panel to the drawer by screwing 4.5 × 32 mm screws with a countersunk head into these holes.

6. Mark on drawer bezel AA knob position (Fig. 2).(The drawer handles should be in line with the corresponding door handles.) Press with clamps to the edge trim of the bottom panel of the cabinet J spacers 3 mm thick and place the drawer bezel on them Y/Z/AA, centering it in the opening. Drill pilot holes for 4.5x32mm screws (photo O). Screw the screws through the false panel into the front wall of the drawer HER. Remove the false panel drawer from the cabinet, drill four pilot holes in the uprights from the inside of the drawer Z false panels (Fig. 5) and attach the false panel to the box with screws. Remove the screws from the holes in the handles, ream these holes to the diameter of the fixing screws (M5) and install the handles.

finishing touches

Draw lines at a distance of 10 mm from the ends of the HH decorative overlays, limiting the length of the bevels, and sand the bevels by hand.

1. Cut out a 19x102x203mm blank for decorative overlays HH. On one of the edges of the workpiece, file two longitudinal intersecting bevels at an angle of 40 °, and then saw off a 10 mm thick lath with beveled edges. From this rail, make decorative overlays, sawing them to the specified length. Sanding form bevels at the ends of the linings (photo P). Glue the decorative overlays to the face pads F (Fig. 1).

2. Remove the back wall To, doors and drawer. Separate from the box EE-GG false panel Y/Z/AA. Remove the metal fittings and rubber shock absorbers of the door stops DD. Apply with a brush to the top/bottom panels of the case G walnut stain to even out their color with the rest of the body parts. When the stain is dry, apply a thin coat of linseed oil to all unfinished lethals. After thorough drying, apply polyurethane varnish. When the varnish is dry, sand all parts with 320 grit sandpaper and apply a second coat of varnish.

3. Prepare the glass cut to fit the folds in the doors. Take out the glazing beads BB and file the bevels at their ends, adjusting the length to the folds in the doors (Fig. 4). Drill pilot holes with a diameter of 1.6 mm for the mounting studs, insert the glass into the folds and secure the glazing beads with studs. Reinstall the doors and rear wall into the body To.

4. To install hanging file holders from a 3 × 25 mm aluminum strip, saw off two pieces with a length equal to the distance between the side walls of the drawer FF, drill holes with a diameter of 3.2 mm in them and countersink them (Fig. 5). Attach the strips to the front/back of the drawer HER so that they protrude 10 mm above the top edge of the walls.

5. Attach the false panel to the drawer again Y/Z/AA and insert the box into the case.

6. If nothing interferes, you can fill the closet with books and put your work on public display.

The bookcase is characterized by two main qualities:

considerable weight of books
shallow depth and a large number of shelves.

These qualities determine the main compositional and design features of the bookcase.

bookcase design

Like any other sliding wardrobe, a bookcase can be made using our online designer. But before proceeding with the design, it is necessary to at least approximately take an inventory of the book fund to determine the main parameters of the shelves. To create a cabinet, you need to know the number of books of each of the typical sizes (most books have standard sizes)

Such an inventory of books by size will determine the number and size of shelves. At the same time, the area and volume of the cabinet will be used in the most rational way. This geometric book layout is good for small libraries. If a collection of books requires alphabetical or thematic placement, then the shelves will have to be made the same, focusing on large format books. This method is more logical for organizing books, but not rational for organizing space.

With any decision, you need to keep in mind that the smallest books should be placed at eye level, and the most popular publications should also be stored there. Large shelves, from which it is inconvenient to take books, are best placed in the upper and lower zones of the bookcase.

Building a bookcase

Even at the design stage, it is necessary to provide for very frequent vertical walls of the bookcase. For shelves made of laminated chipboard or MDF with a width of 150 - 200 mm, the length of the shelf should not exceed 350 - 400 mm, then their deflection under the weight of books will be invisible.

To avoid such a palisade of vertical walls - shelf supports can be made from an ordinary board with a thickness of 35 - 45 mm. Such a board with a width of 150 - 200 mm can have a free length twice as large - up to 800 - 900 mm, so that the deflection from the weight of the books does not appear. Such boards can be ordered in a carpentry workshop according to the designer's drawings - no other parameters of the bookshelves will change from this, except for the gap between the shelves, which will decrease from switching from MDF to thicker boards. Boards can be laid on the same supporting elements as ordinary shelves, but it is better to tie the entire structure together at the top and bottom with the help of overhead corners.

You can tie the resulting bookcase from shelves and walls - racks using the back wall of laminated fiberboard.

After assembling the entire bookcase, it is pushed into the design place and fixed to the walls from tipping over. After such fastening, you can mount sliding doors, and after them - put the books in place.

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Books are a source of knowledge and inspiration, a teacher of the life and culture of society. Despite the fact that today many have switched to electronic versions, paper ones are still in price. There are people who buy them, read them, store them, exchange them, give them away. Just like that, you need to have a stylish bookcase in your apartment, where you can store all the most valuable and informative copies.

If the apartment has a study, then such furniture will find its use in it - it’s good to use it for storing documents, printer paper, folders, etc. Modern furniture stores offer a wide variety of bookcases, but can they compare with those what is done with your own hands, where the soul, imagination and strength are invested.

Varieties

Divide cabinets into open and closed. The latter are more convenient
though they take up a lot of space. There are also subspecies:

Vertical and horizontal version.
Corpus.
Modular.
built-in.
Angular.

It should be noted that the corner view is great for a small room or office, as it can store a lot of books, magazines and other printed materials. It allows you to easily reach books, does not take up much space and combines stylishly with other furniture.

What material is better to use

You can make a bookcase from any material, but, of course, the most win-win option is wood, which is always valuable, lasts a long time and does not lose its original characteristics. However, it is quite expensive to make furniture from natural wood, so not everyone can afford to buy it.

So, MDF or chipboard is suitable as a replacement. These are durable and environmentally friendly materials that are comfortable to work with and do not deteriorate over the years. You can also make your own bookcase from other improvised materials. But it is important that they are strong and reliable.

Tools for the job

Do-it-yourself bookcase is difficult, but you can learn if you want. It is advisable to first watch a few video tutorials and read special literature so that the product turns out to be of high quality, durable and functional. First of all, you need to prepare the following tools:

screwdriver;
hacksaw;
grinder;
milling device;
a hammer;
roulette;
pencil;
nails and screws;
wood glue and varnish;
blanks for construction.

You should start with these steps:

Consider where exactly the furniture will be located and what size it is planned to be. It is important to remember that the locker should not be bulky, but at the same time it must be built roomy.
Draw up all the necessary drawings, which schematically depict the details of the product, their dimensions and the amount of materials.
Decide on the color of the furniture. If the room is small, then it is advisable to give preference to light shades, if it is spacious, any color will do. The main thing is that it harmoniously combines with other furniture.

As for the optimal dimensions, it is suitable if the cabinet has a depth of 20-30 cm, a shelf thickness of 2-3 cm, a length of at least 1 m. The height of the furniture itself can be 150-170 cm, and the width is 130-140 cm.

More about future work

To build a bookcase with your own hands, you must first make blanks from the selected material in the sizes that you prefer. You can cut them with a jigsaw or other tool, and then you need to perform milling. The last procedure is complex, so it is advisable to entrust it to professionals. Only when all the kit is assembled, you can start assembly.

Its stages are as follows:

First you need to find the most even surface in order to prevent distortion.
After that, you can begin to attach the side walls to the top. Before fixing, it is necessary to correct all the irregularities in the joints with a special corner.
Next, holes for fasteners are drilled with a drill, the diameter of which is smaller than the diameter of the connecting element.
Then the parts are fastened together with fasteners. Confirmat is very convenient and practical. It comes with a hex wrench, which is more convenient to make a clamp.
After fixing the upper part, you can move on to the lower one.
In a bookcase, the shelves are designed for a heavy load, so you do not need to make them removable. It is better to attach the shelves with the same confirmation.
At the end, the rear wall is installed. Fasteners can be ordinary screws or nails.

When the design is ready, it's time to start finishing. Do-it-yourself ready-made bookcase can be painted in the desired color, painted with original images, or simply varnished. Here the choice depends purely on the preferences of the owner. If you want to have a unique stylish model, you have the right to make it with glass doors. Frosted glass will look especially beautiful. The main thing is to firmly fix all the structural elements so that it serves for a long time and regularly.

Books are a source of knowledge, teachers of life, relationships and culture of communication. And despite the fact that in the modern world there are a huge number of them in electronic form, most of us continue to enjoy the traditional method of reading.

Over time, more and more various books, magazines accumulate in the house, and if you are tired of collecting printed materials scattered throughout the house, then a do-it-yourself bookcase can easily cope with this problem. After reviewing the instructions for assembling the cabinet, you will see that it is not at all difficult to equip an apartment on your own.

Bookcase in the interior - its types and advantages

Open and close models

All models of bookcases can be divided into two types:

open;
closure.

The closed view of the cabinet, unlike the open one, is more gentle for storing books, prevents dust, moisture and light from entering. Books that are not protected by anything absorb dust, deteriorate, and subsequently negatively affect the health of people in the room. Under the influence of direct sunlight, they turn yellow and lose their presentation. Of course, it is better to store books in closed cabinets, but this design creates a feeling of bulkiness, especially in small spaces.

Vertical or horizontal

In addition, bookcases come in different types of execution:

horizontal;
vertical.

Before making a choice, you need to pay attention to the size of the room, the availability of free space and the style of the interior.

Bookcases can also be rectangular, shelving or corner.

Cabinet bookcase

Cabinet cabinets are the most popular piece of furniture for storing books, magazines or other miscellaneous items. Depending on personal preferences, you yourself can choose the “stuffing” of the cabinet - the absence of any doors, only open shelves, or their presence, and the doors can be hinged, sliding or accordion-shaped, glazed or deaf.

Modular bookcase

Modular designs allow you to combine elements, while obtaining cabinets of different heights and configurations. The versatility of this type of bookcase is that, thanks to the variations of models, it can adapt to almost any room, both large and small.

Built-in bookcase

This type of bookcase is usually a sliding door system. Its peculiarity is that all parts are attached directly to the ceiling, walls and floor. The design can be the most diverse, but the most typical: side walls without a bottom and a lid, and the walls of the room act as boundaries.

Built-in bookcase - photos of good examples.

Corner bookcase

If you have a small apartment, and you have a huge amount of books, magazines or other printed matter, then a corner bookcase is perfect for that. It will fit perfectly into any interior, in addition, the corner design contains a number of advantages: large capacity combined with compactness, optimal use of corner space, as well as easy access to books.

Bookcase Materials

For the manufacture of furniture, a very wide range of materials is used, which form the main price of a bookcase. Exclusive models are produced, as a rule, from the most expensive material - natural wood (cherry, oak, walnut, birch, etc.) in the form of an array or veneer.

More often, modern chipboard, MDF, etc. with a high-quality coating of laminate, polymers and melamine are used to create a bookcase. More expensive, at the same time more durable and environmentally friendly is MDF - a board material that is produced by dry pressing of fine wood chips under high temperature and pressure.

Doors are made of frosted or clear glass. Of course, high-quality high-strength glass is not cheap, but it can withstand even shock.

Tools and materials for making a bookcase

For work you will need:

screwdriver, drill, hacksaw;
milling machine;
grinding machine;
pencil, ruler, tape measure;
sandpaper;
washers, screws, nails, hammer;
wood glue, stain and varnish;
blanks for shelves from a furniture board;
plywood to be used for the back wall, uprights and support covers;
wood, for example, oak for legs.

Preparatory stage for the manufacture of a bookcase

Preparing cabinet parts

Well ... all the drawings are ready, now you can proceed to the direct manufacture of the cabinet, namely the preparation of its parts.

Sawing parts can be ordered from specialists, as this stage is quite complicated. The whole problem is that the machine for sawing chipboard is very expensive, and of course, it makes no sense to buy it specifically for the manufacture of one bookcase. Often at home, the machine is replaced with a jigsaw, however, in that case, the quality of the cut suffers, as chips are obtained. Therefore, it would be wise to order chipboard sawing in the same place where you buy it.

To begin with, we will be producing a standard open type rectangular bookcase from oak veneered chipboard and from oak itself.

If you like the rectangular ends of the chipboard panels, then you can simply paste over them with veneer, otherwise you need to prepare oak slats, glue them to the ends of the panels so that you can round them in the future.

To prevent the workpiece from being squeezed when clamping the clamp, plywood of the required thickness should be placed under it. When clamping parts, glue may come out of the seams, to do this, immediately wipe it gently with a rag or let it dry and then simply remove it with a chisel. Docking rails is best done at an angle of 45 degrees.

End milling

End milling is not a complex and lengthy process, although underestimating this type of activity, like any other, the final result can be very disappointing. Properly selected cutters for the relief, clearly set the desired overhang and will be a successful guarantee of the overall work on milling. At the moment of feeding the workpiece into the milling cutter, it is very important not to deviate it in different directions, and also to observe the smoothness of movement.

After milling, it is worth checking the area of contact of the working part with the workpiece. Having found between them the crotches, using the sandpaper, grit 150, eliminate them, otherwise such differences will be very noticeable after opening with varnish.

Back wall of the cabinet

This is one of the most inconspicuous sides of your closet, which requires the least attention in finishing and processing. But in many cases, the reliability of the entire structure depends on its installation, since the back wall serves as an additional connector for the entire cabinet.

Often the back wall is a sheet or pieces of plywood. Easily workable material does not take long to install. Using an electric jigsaw and a sawing machine, we cut off the dimensions we need, and then remove the chamfer with sandpaper.

A more reliable back wall is made with chipboard, which is much heavier in weight. This material is more demanding on the fastener itself and the method of fastening.

Cabinet assembly

Before assembling the cabinet, you need to find the most even surface in order to prevent warping.
Fasten the side walls to the top. Just before fixing, you should use a special corner, which will help to avoid uneven joint angles.
We drill holes for fasteners with a drill, the diameter of which is smaller than the diameter of the connecting element.
We tighten the parts together with fasteners. A very convenient and practical option is confirmation. It comes with a hex wrench to make it easier for you to tighten it.
Having fixed the upper part of the cabinet, we move on to the lower one, not forgetting the corner that regulates the corner joint.
Having connected these parts, do not rush to install the back wall, because you are still waiting for the installation of shelves. Agree that it is much more convenient to install shelves without a back wall. In a bookcase, the shelves lend themselves to heavy loads, and in such cases it is not advisable to make them removable. It is best to attach the shelves with the same confirmation and preferably in 3-4 places on the side wall on one side. This will give not only reliability and durability to the shelves, but also to the entire cabinet.
At the final stage, we install the back wall. In cases, having settled on fiberboard material, ordinary self-tapping screws, nails or a construction stapler can serve as a fastener.

Today, self-made furniture is becoming very popular. One of the sought-after styles is the loft. It ages furniture, rooms and entire houses.

Loft style room

The loft style in the interior combines bohemianism and simplicity, is unusual, and includes numerous postmodern design ideas.

The style is popular, it originated from the poverty of the American population, but has become a fad of the rich. Taking into account the main points of the direction, beautiful and original pieces of furniture are created, rooms and entire houses are decorated. Photos of loft-style interiors look impressive and original.

The main features that distinguish loft-style rooms from rooms decorated in a classic style in the interior are:

the absence of partitions made of drywall or other material in the premises;
a large window is built in, there are no curtains and curtains on it;
the wall is left as it is; visible bricks without decoration;
floors are concrete, there may be wooden flooring;
fireplaces, stoves, plasterboard furniture harmoniously fit into the interior of the room;
there are beams on the ceilings;
the room is illuminated by modern lamas;
antique-finished furniture is widely used (with cracked boletus, peeling paint; old cabinets and shelves are allowed to be widely used);
the predominance of design ideas in the interior is characteristic, the restoration of old things is undesirable.

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Old pieces of furniture will look great both in the interior of the living room and in the hallway. In the same vein, you can withstand the bathroom and toilet. The style creates bookcases made of drywall and metal, chairs, tables, chests of drawers and other furniture.

Allocate a loft:

bohemian (there are antique items of particular value);
glamorous (in the interior there are bright details);
industrial (implies a minimum of furniture and decorating details).

How to make a loft-style wardrobe with your own hands

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The loft style implies the presence of concrete or brick rough walls, rough drywall. The predominant shades are dark, without the presence of bright elements. Unlike furniture made in the classical style, loft-style furniture can be made from any material at hand, furniture of this style does not even need restoration, it will be more valuable here to age the furniture, giving it signs of a bygone era.

Corner bookcase

You can assemble a corner bookcase yourself without much difficulty. To do this, you need to prepare all the necessary materials, tools and strictly follow the instructions, you can use ready-made bookcase diagrams with your own hands, drawings, where specific dimensions are indicated. You can change the settings. Bookcase design may vary.

To assemble a bookcase with your own hands, you need to follow certain rules:

draw a detailed model of the locker; the shelving scheme should reflect their width, the distance between the shelves, the width of the shelves in the future cabinet, the material from which they will be made (wood and metal structures look better in the interior of the loft);
a frame is made (a corner or a profile pipe is suitable for it, which are connected into a single structure);
wooden boards are being prepared for shelves in bookcases; we restore them or leave them as they are;
the assembly ends with the installation of shelves in an already made cabinet;
the assembled cabinet is installed in a specific part of the room.

Bookcases in the loft interior can also have a different look: the bookcase can be built-in or freestanding. Unlike light and airy structures in the Provence style, the loft wardrobe is distinguished by its heaviness and rudeness, simplicity, but this is its main feature and exclusivity.

A large and massive loft wardrobe will perfectly fit into the interior, designed in the general style. But a small compact and discreet cabinet, created from metal pipes and small boards, can in an original way complement the minimal furniture of a bedroom or a child.

If you are going to make a loft-style bookcase, then:

collect as much information as possible about the direction of this style in the interior;
inspect ready-made options and photos of pieces of furniture made in a convenient manner;
choose an example that is suitable specifically for you, or come up with your own;
watch the video tutorial or read the instructions on how to make a bookcase with your own hands to understand all the nuances of assembly.

Bookcase drawing Cabinet diagram

The loft style is perfect for those who appreciate minimalism in the interior, do not accept heaps of furniture, strive for both simplicity and comfort. This direction will be especially appreciated by those who vividly perceive everything new, love avant-garde and unusual things, appreciate antiquity and sophistication.

But those who, on the contrary, strive for the classics, love and appreciate the usual comfort and beauty in details, should choose something completely different for their home.