Insulation of mansard roofs from the inside, instruction and video. Competent insulation of the attic floor with your own hands Warming of the finished attic
Increasingly, when building a private house, owners are planning to use the under-roof space as an attic. It is very important to ensure the comfort of living no worse than on full-fledged floors; for this, insulation is performed. Before you insulate the attic, you must carefully study this issue.
Advantages of the attic
The attic floor is considered to be a heated room under the roof, while the height of the outer walls should be from 0 to 150 cm. Planning such a floor has the following advantages:
- the possibility of an interesting design of the room;
- reducing the cost per square meter of living space;
- additional living space.
Areas of insulation
When designing an attic space, it is necessary to think about the thermal protection of the roof and walls. Insulation of the attic with your own hands will significantly save on the construction or repair stage and fully control the process.
Insulation of the mansard roof from the inside can significantly reduce heat losses, since the heated air moves up. Thermal protection of walls can be carried out both from the inside and outside. The choice of method depends on the technology of insulation of the outer walls of the entire building. Competently from the point of view of heat engineering, mount the material from the side of cold air.
If necessary, heat-insulating material is also placed in the floor structure. In this case, the insulation plays the role of sound insulation and provides maximum comfort for living.
Wall insulation
Attic wall insulation scheme To perform the insulation of the attic floor and guarantee the preservation of temperature during the winter period, the following materials are used:
- Styrofoam;
- extruded polystyrene foam (penoplex);
- mineral wool (glass wool, basalt, slag);
- polyurethane foam (mounting foam).
These materials are the most effective for thermal protection. If necessary, thermal insulation can be mounted from the inside of the room, but it is best to mount the material from the outside. Warming the attic from the inside with your own hands has the following disadvantages:
- reduction of useful space of the room;
- protection from cold only the internal volume of the building, not including external fences;
- displacement of the dew point (condensation during the cold period) deep into the structure of the outer wall.
But it is worth noting that this method can be used in any weather, it does not require additional scaffolding and scaffolding. Work can be performed without special qualifications.
To answer the question of how to properly insulate the attic from the inside, it is necessary to consider the order of laying the layers. It is important to provide reliable protection of the heat-insulating material from any kind of moisture.
For this, vapor barrier and waterproofing are used. The most important rule when insulating walls and any other structures: vapor barrier is always located on the side of warm air, and waterproofing - on the side of cold air. If this condition is not met, the entire wall pie as a whole will not work correctly and will soon require not only cosmetic, but also more serious repairs.
The procedure for carrying out work for all types of thermal insulation does not differ significantly. To ensure reliable thermal insulation, it is best to proceed in the following order:
- cleaning and leveling the base (when using mounting foam, it is recommended to moisten the base with water from a spray bottle to improve the adhesion of polyurethane foam to the surface);
- fixing waterproofing;
- installation of a frame for fixing the insulation (if necessary);
- installation of insulation and its fastening;
- vapor barrier layer;
- interior decoration of the room (for fragile materials, the installation of drywall sheets will be required).
When using extruded polystyrene foam and polyurethane foam, vapor barrier can be neglected. Polyfoam, when installed in rooms with normal humidity conditions, also does not need it.
Roof insulation
Mansard roof insulation scheme The technology of mansard roof insulation in most cases consists in laying heat-insulating material between the rafters. It is best to use the following materials:
- mineral wool in the form of rigid slabs;
- Styrofoam;
- polyurethane foam.
It should be remembered that when working with mineral wool and polyurethane foam, the performer will need protective clothing. Thermal insulation made of polyurethane foam is held in the design position due to adhesion (adhesion) to the surface. To improve this quality, it is recommended to slightly moisten the roof elements with water before application.
When using mineral wool boards, it is best to set the pitch of the rafter legs so that the clean distance between them is 580 mm. This will simplify the installation process when using standard boards with a width of 600 mm and prevent the appearance of gaps between the insulation and wooden structures.
The joints between the foam and the rafters are filled with mounting foam or sealant. Fastening is carried out with the help of special glue or nails. The adhesive must not contain solvents (alcohol, acetone).
How to properly insulate the attic with your own hands? It is important to observe the following order of roof layers:
- finishing;
- crate;
- vapor barrier;
- rafters and insulation between them;
- waterproofing;
- wind protection;
- crate;
- roofing material.
First, the supporting structures of the roof are mounted, after which the waterproofing and wind protection are laid. After installing the upper crate, they begin laying the insulation. As wind protection and waterproofing, it is better to use special moisture-wind-proof membranes.
Laying insulation in the floor structure
To prevent increased audibility between floors, 30-50 cm of insulation can be laid in the floor pie. Installation can be carried out under a coupler or on logs. When using polyurethane foam, the installation of a log is always required. When installing foam plastic under the screed, it is reinforced with additional reinforcement with meshes, the diameter of the reinforcement is taken as 4 mm.
Calculation of the thickness of the insulation
Before insulating the attic, it is necessary not only to choose a heat-insulating material, but also its thickness. It depends on the climatic region of construction and on the thermal conductivity of the insulation. It is better to choose materials with a lower thermal conductivity value: the higher it is, the greater the thickness of the heat-insulating layer will be required. The value for private construction can be taken approximately.
You can perform a full-fledged heat engineering calculation using the fairly simple Teremok program. It is freely available and fairly easy to use. With this application, you can choose the thickness of the heat insulator or check the already accepted one.
Proper insulation of the attic from the inside will ensure the comfort of living and avoid problems during operation.
It is important to pay attention to all external surfaces equally. Thermal insulation, chosen correctly, can last a long time and reliably protect the house from the cold in winter.
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Whether you are building a new structure or remodeling the roof for additional rooms, you need to take care of how to make high-quality insulation. If the roof is already covered, from the inside, all work is carried out taking into account the geometry of the roof and the climatic features of the region. In this material, we have collected all the necessary information about possible methods of insulation and will provide you with practical recommendations from professionals.
A well-insulated attic can serve as a bedroom or even a children's room.
Useful information and video on how to insulate the attic for winter living
A lot depends on the quality insulation of the attic roof. If you plan to use this room in the winter, you need to think carefully about what materials to use for thermal insulation. Another important aspect is the design of the roof.
The peculiarity of the under-roof space is not only in geometry, it is colder here in winter than in other rooms, and hotter in summer. To maintain the optimum temperature, roofers recommend forming a multi-layer "pie" of waterproofing under the roofing, and.
Important point! With a large heat loss through the roof in winter, the snow on it begins to thaw and forms an ice crust. And water, as you know, is looking for any, even the most minimal loophole. So an ice roof is bad, there's a good chance you'll get a leak.
About the need for waterproofing works
All fibrous heat insulators, one way or another, absorb moisture. It can form due to flaws in the roofing or condensation inside the room due to temperature differences. Moisture that gets into the insulation adversely affects its condition. To prevent this is the task of the waterproofing layer.
Modern construction technologies involve the use of membrane materials. They do not allow the formation of condensate and at the same time do not allow external moisture to pass through.
Most often, when building a house, an attic room is immediately thought of as residential. At the same time, the question arises of how to insulate the attic so that it is a usable area not only in summer, but also in winter. But sometimes it also happens that the idea to arrange a room in it arises already in the process of building an attic. If the roof slopes are located at an angle of 35 ÷ 45 degrees, and raised high enough, the design of the attic for a cozy room suggests itself.
Of course, in this case, you will have to turn to specialists who are professionally engaged in such a technological process of insulation and have the necessary equipment for this. But on the other hand, you can free yourself from all further worries about insulating the slopes and get such a thermal insulation layer that does not require waterproofing, since it will tightly cover the inner surface of the roof and rafters by itself.
Materials for self-insulation of the attic
If the waterproofing film is laid on the rafters, then the following insulation materials can be used for further work:
- Mineral wool is the most popular insulation, which, in terms of parameters, is excellent for thermal insulation of a wooden roof system and roof slopes. Mineral wool is heat and moisture resistant, has a very low thermal conductivity, is durable, elastic, which is very convenient when performing installation work. In addition, all types of mineral wool are excellent noise absorbers and soundproofing. Sometimes, in order to enhance the insulating effect, sprayed polyurethane foam is also used in combination with mineral wool. This option is especially in demand in the conditions of the northern regions with a cold climate.
Mineral wool is produced in different forms - in mats and rolls. It can also be foil coated. A material with a similar layer is laid with foil inside the room so that the accumulated heat is reflected back.
- Expanded polystyrene () is a well-known insulation, affordable and easy to install. However, practice shows that often this material alone is not enough to make the attic room really warm, since it does not adhere sufficiently to the roof surface.
It can also be used in combination with sprayed insulation. In addition, ordinary foamed polystyrene (not extruded) is not resistant to fire, and emits toxic substances during combustion - this fact must also be taken into account when choosing one or another insulation.
- Polyurethane foam can be sprayed in several layers, and have, in principle, any desired thickness that is required for high-quality insulation of the attic. When solidified, it acquires a sufficiently high density, it is easily leveled along the rafters by cutting off excess foam. The sprayed material will penetrate into all the cracks and close them from the penetration of drafts and precipitation. Moreover, it also gives the roof structure and roofing additional resistance to mechanical stress.
The sprayed material rapidly increases in volume and solidifies. Using it, you can do not only without waterproofing, but also without vapor barrier, since this material in the frozen state easily copes with these problems - it does not delay the exit for steam, but at the same time - does not let moisture in.
Sprayed polyurethane foam can be used not only for insulating the slopes and walls of the attic, but also for its floors. It is also sprayed between the wooden parts of the structure, in this case between the floor beams.
- Ecowool is a shredded material that is made from natural cellulose with appropriate additives. They are good at insulating the gaps between the floor beams. Shredded ecowool is not very suitable for wall insulation, as it does not have such a pronounced adhesive property as polyurethane. However, there is a technology of wet adhesive spraying, but it necessarily requires sophisticated professional equipment.
In order to create the required thickness of the insulation layer, galvanized metal profile trusses are arranged across the floor beams. The space between them will be filled with ecowool. This process is carried out with the help of special equipment - a compression unit through a special pipe carries out pneumatic transfer of the material under pressure from the hopper or mixer to the place of its installation.
TOP 10 best attic insulation
| A photo | Name | Rating | Price | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| The best basalt insulation | ||||||
| #1 |
|
Hotrock Smart | ⭐ 99 / 100 | |||
| #2 |
|
rockwool | ⭐ 98 / 100 | |||
| The best fiberglass insulation | ||||||
| #1 |
|
Ursa Geo | ⭐ 99 / 100 | |||
| #2 |
|
Isover Warm House | ⭐ 98 / 100 | |||
| The best foam insulation | ||||||
| #1 |
|
Knauf Therm House | ⭐ 99 / 100 | |||
| #2 |
|
PSB S 15-O | ⭐ 98 / 100 | |||
| The best polystyrene foam insulation | ||||||
| #1 |
|
TechnoNicole XPS Technoplex | ⭐ 99 / 100 | |||
| #2 |
|
Penoplex Comfort | ⭐ 98 / 100 | |||
| The best polyester fiber insulation | ||||||
| #1 | Shelter EcoStroy ShES standard | ⭐ 99 / 100 | ||||
| #2 |
|
Shelter EcoStroy ShES arctic | ⭐ 98 / 100 1 - voice | |||
Video: attic insulation using a set of materials ROCKWOOL
Prices for popular types of heaters
insulation
How to calculate the required thickness of the insulation yourself
It is important not only to choose the right insulation material - you need to know how thick it should be in order to fully ensure the thermal insulation of the attic room. And at the same time, this is also necessary from the point of view of not overpaying for excessively thick insulation, which, in fact, will not give any advantages and will only become an unnecessary waste of material.
The calculation method is determined by special documents - SNiP 23 — 02-2003 and SP 23 - 101-2004 "Design thermal protection of buildings". Its main principle is that the total value of the thermal resistance of a building structure should not be lower than the design indicators established for various climatic regions. These values of temperature resistance (R) are summarized in special tables, but it is easier to use a map diagram.
Please note that the diagram map shows separate values \u200b\u200bfor walls, floors and coatings for each region - any one has all these elements. The roof, walls and floor of the attic are always multilayer structures, and one of the layers will be a heater.
The total value of heat transfer resistance for a structure of n layers is:
R = R1 + R2 + ... Rn
The resistance to heat transfer is equal to:
Rn = δn/ λ n
where δ n is the thermal conductivity of the material, λ n is its thickness (in meters).
Since the insulation is considered as one of the layers, its thickness can be calculated using the formula:
δut= (R – 0.16 – δ1/ λ1– δ2/ λ2 – δ n/ λ n) × λut
The scheme of the structure of the gable wall, roof or attic floor is not a secret for the owner. Measuring the thickness of each of their layers is also not the most difficult task. It remains to find the thermal conductivity coefficients for each of the materials. To do this, you can use the attached table:
| Estimated thermal performance of some building and thermal insulation materials | ||||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Material | Density of materials in dry state | Design coefficients under various operating conditions | ||||
| ω | λ | μ | ||||
| BUT | B | BUT | B | A, B | ||
| λ - coefficient of thermal conductivity (W / (m ° C)); ω - coefficient of mass ratio of moisture in the material (%); μ - vapor permeability coefficient (mg/(m h Pa) |
||||||
| A. Polymer | ||||||
| Styrofoam | 150 | 1 | 5 | 0.052 | 0.06 | 0.05 |
| Same | 100 | 2 | 10 | 0.041 | 0.052 | 0.05 |
| Same | 40 | 2 | 10 | 0.041 | 0.05 | 0.05 |
| Extruded polystyrene foam | 25 ÷45 | 2 | 10 | 0.031 | 0.031 | 0.013 |
| Polyfoam PVC1 and PV1 | 125 | 2 | 10 | 0.06 | 0.064 | 0.23 |
| Same | 100 or less | 2 | 10 | 0.05 | 0.052 | 0.23 |
| polyurethane foam | 80 | 2 | 5 | 0.05 | 0.05 | 0.05 |
| Same | 60 | 2 | 5 | 0.041 | 0.041 | 0.05 |
| Same | 40 | 2 | 5 | 0.04 | 0.04 | 0.05 |
| Thermal insulation products made of foamed synthetic rubber Aeroflex | 80 | 5 | 15 | 0.04 | 0.054 | 0.003 |
| Extruded polystyrene foam "Penoplex", type 35 | 35 | 2 | 3 | 0.029 | 0.03 | 0.018 |
| Same. type 45 | 45 | 2 | 3 | 0.031 | 0.032 | 0.015 |
| B. Mineral wool, fiberglass | ||||||
| Mineral wool mats | 125 | 2 | 5 | 0.064 | 0.07 | 0.3 |
| Same | 100 | 2 | 5 | 0.061 | 0.067 | 0.49 |
| Same | 75 | 2 | 5 | 0.058 | 0.064 | 0.49 |
| Mineral wool mats on a synthetic binder | 225 | 2 | 5 | 0.072 | 0.082 | 0.49 |
| Same | 175 | 2 | 5 | 0.066 | 0.076 | 0.49 |
| Same | 125 | 2 | 5 | 0.064 | 0.07 | 0.49 |
| Same | 75 | 2 | 5 | 0.058 | 0.064 | 0.53 |
| Soft, semi-rigid and rigid mineral wool slabs on synthetic and bituminous binders | 250 | 2 | 5 | 0.082 | 0.085 | 0.41 |
| Same | 225 | 2 | 5 | 0.079 | 0.084 | 0.41 |
| Same | 200 | 2 | 5 | 0.076 | 0.08 | 0.49 |
| Same | 150 | 2 | 5 | 0.068 | 0.073 | 0.49 |
| Same | 125 | 2 | 5 | 0.064 | 0.069 | 0.49 |
| Same | 100 | 2 | 5 | 0.06 | 0.065 | 0.56 |
| Same | 75 | 2 | 5 | 0.056 | 0.063 | 0.6 |
| Mineral wool boards of increased rigidity on an organophosphate binder | 200 | 1 | 2 | 0.07 | 0.076 | 0.45 |
| Semi-rigid mineral wool boards on a starch binder | 200 | 2 | 5 | 0.076 | 0.08 | 0.38 |
| Same | 125 | 2 | 5 | 0.06 | 0.064 | 0.38 |
| Glass staple fiber slabs with synthetic binder | 45 | 2 | 5 | 0.06 | 0.064 | 0.6 |
| Mats and strips of glass fiber stitched | 150 | 2 | 5 | 0.064 | 0.07 | 0.53 |
| URSA Glass Staple Fiber Mats | 25 | 2 | 5 | 0.043 | 0.05 | 0.61 |
| Same | 17 | 2 | 5 | 0.046 | 0.053 | 0.66 |
| Same | 15 | 2 | 5 | 0.048 | 0.053 | 0.68 |
| Same | 11 | 2 | 5 | 0.05 | 0.055 | 0.7 |
| URSA Glass Staple Fiber Boards | 85 | 2 | 5 | 0.046 | 0.05 | 0.5 |
| Same | 75 | 2 | 5 | 0.042 | 0.047 | 0.5 |
| Same | 60 | 2 | 5 | 0.04 | 0.045 | 0.51 |
| Same | 45 | 2 | 5 | 0.041 | 0.045 | 0.51 |
| Same | 35 | 2 | 5 | 0.041 | 0.046 | 0.52 |
| Same | 30 | 2 | 5 | 0.042 | 0.046 | 0.52 |
| Same | 20 | 2 | 5 | 0.043 | 0.048 | 0.53 |
| Same | 17 . | 2 | 5 | 0.047 | 0.053 | 0.54 |
| Same | 15 | 2 | 5 | 0.049 | 0.055 | 0.55 |
| B. Slabs made from natural organic and inorganic materials | ||||||
| Wood fiber boards and chipboards | 1000 | 10 | 12 | 0.23 | 0.29 | 0.12 |
| Same | 800 | 10 | 12 | 0.19 | 0.23 | 0.12 |
| Same | 600 | 10 | 12 | 0.13 | 0.16 | 0.13 |
| Same | 400 | 10 | 12 | 0.11 | 0.13 | 0.19 |
| Same | 200 | 10 | 12 | 0.07 | 0.08 | 0.24 |
| Fiberboard slabs and wood concrete on Portland cement | 500 | 10 | 15 | 0.15 | 0.19 | 0.11 |
| Same | 450 | 10 | 15 | 0.135 | 0.17 | 0.11 |
| Same | 400 | 10 | 15 | 0.13 | 0.16 | 0.26 |
| Reed slabs | 300 | 10 | 15 | 0.09 | 0.14 | 0.45 |
| Same | 200 | 10 | 15 | 0.07 | 0.09 | 0.49 |
| Heat-insulating peat slabs | 300 | 15 | 20 | 0.07 | 0.08 | 0.19 |
| Same | 200 | 15 | 20 | 0.06 | 0.064 | 0.49 |
| Plaster boards | 1350 | 4 | 6 | 0.5 | 0.56 | 0.098 |
| Same | 1100 | 4 | 6 | 0.35 | 0.41 | 0.11 |
| Gypsum sheathing sheets (gypsum board) | 1050 | 4 | 6 | 0.34 | 0.36 | 0.075 |
| Same | 800 | 4 | 6 | 0.19 | 0.21 | 0.075 |
| G. backfill | ||||||
| Expanded clay gravel | 600 | 2 | 3 | 0.17 | 0.19 | 0.23 |
| Same | 500 | 2 | 3 | 0.15 | 0.165 | 0.23 |
| Same | 450 | 2 | 3 | 0.14 | 0.155 | 0.235 |
| Same | 400 | 2 | 3 | 0.13 | 0.145 | 0.24 |
| Same | 350 | 2 | 3 | 0.125 | 0.14 | 0.245 |
| Same | 300 | 2 | 3 | 0.12 | 0.13 | 0.25 |
| Same | 250 | 2 | 3 | 0.11 | 0.12 | 0.26 |
| E. Wood, products from it and other natural organic materials | ||||||
| Pine and spruce across the grain | 500 | 15 | 20 | 0.14 | 0.18 | 0.06 |
| Pine and spruce along the grain | 500 | 15 | 20 | 0.29 | 0.35 | 0.32 |
| Oak across the grain | 700 | 10 | 15 | 0.18 | 0.23 | 0.05 |
| Oak along the grain | 700 | 10 | 15 | 0.35 | 0.41 | 0.3 |
| Plywood | 600 | 10 | 13 | 0.15 | 0.18 | 0.02 |
| Facing cardboard | 1000 | 5 | 10 | 0.21 | 0.23 | 0.06 |
| Multilayer construction cardboard | 650 | 6 | 12 | 0.15 | 0.18 | 0.083 |
| E. Roofing, waterproofing, facing materials | ||||||
| - Asbestos-cement | ||||||
| Asbestos-cement flat sheets | 1800 | 2 | 3 | 0.47 | 0.52 | 0.03 |
| Same | 1600 | 2 | 3 | 0.35 | 0.41 | 0.03 |
| - Bituminous | ||||||
| Bitumen oil construction and roofing | 1400 | 0 | 0 | 0.27 | 0.27 | 0.008 |
| Same | 1200 | 0 | 0 | 0.22 | 0.22 | 0.008 |
| Same | 1000 | 0 | 0 | 0.17 | 0.17 | 0.008 |
| asphalt concrete | 2100 | 0 | 0 | 1.05 | 1.05 | 0.008 |
| Products from expanded perlite on a bituminous binder | 400 | 1 | 2 | 0.12 | 0.13 | 0.04 |
| Same | 300 | 1 | 2 | 0.09 | 0.099 | 0.04 |
One more nuance. The table shows two operating modes, A and B. Which one should I choose?
To do this, we look at another map-scheme, which divides the country's territory into zones of humidity:
Now let's turn to the table, which will tell you which of the modes to choose:
Before starting the calculations, one more important remark should be made. Only those layers are taken into account that provide a snug fit to each other, without ventilated air gaps. So, if the roof or wall is made with a ventilation gap, then all layers lying above it are no longer taken into account. For the same reason, corrugated roofing material cannot be taken into account.
For example, roof slopes have the following design: a solid plywood crate, on top of which a soft bituminous coating is laid. Under it is a layer of insulation (which will be calculated), and from below there is a lining with a natural clapboard. This means that, in addition to thermal insulation, three more layers will be taken into account in the calculation - bituminous coating, plywood and natural wood.
In order not to bore our readers with long calculations, we suggest using a special calculator that allows you to calculate the thickness of the insulation for walls, slopes and attic floors, in the design of which, in addition to thermal insulation, there are up to three more layers.
Calculator for determining the thickness of the insulation of walls, roofs and floors of the attic
Against the backdrop of rising housing prices, more and more boring lofts are turning into wonderful lofts. To ensure the comfort of the future inhabitants of this room, the insulation of the attic walls must be performed at the highest level. Let's find out with what materials and technologies it is best to do this.
How to insulate the walls of the attic - in search of a solution
Attic insulation can and should be considered in the complex of energy saving works. Even if you do not plan to settle in the attic in the near future, it should definitely be insulated - the greatest heat loss in a residential building is quite rightly attributed to the walls, basement and roof. It is because of the cold ceiling that the entire second floor in winter may be unsuitable for a comfortable life.
On the market you will find many offers for materials, and construction teams are not far behind in a variety of offers. It doesn’t matter whether you do the insulation of the attic walls with your own hands or invite builders, it’s up to you to choose the materials for insulation. We recommend avoiding, no matter how attractive its cost looks. Firstly, it has low vapor permeability, which is why there will be constantly high humidity inside the attic - not the best "company" for rafters, drywall and lining.
Secondly, in the process of drying of the rafters, gaps are formed between them and the foam, through which the street cold will penetrate into the room. And thirdly, mice often settle in polystyrene. Extruded polystyrene foam costs a little more than polystyrene, but it is much more suitable as a heater, and the laying technology is completely different. To avoid the appearance of cracks during the drying of the rafters, expanded polystyrene plates are laid on top of them. If you decide to choose this material, look for boards with tongue and groove joints.
Insulation with basalt mineral wool is especially common. In terms of its qualities, it is an ideal insulation for attic walls: it does not combust, does not rot, does not absorb moisture, is durable and, of course, has low thermal conductivity. Mineral wool is produced both in soft rolls and in the form of more elastic plates. The latter are easier to work with by cutting a piece a few centimeters wider, you can insert the slab between the rafters, and it will hold on due to its own elasticity. In the case of soft material, you will have to additionally make a net of threads that will hold the cotton wool in its original position.
Glass wool is a material similar to mineral wool, and the technology of work is also identical. However, there are still some differences. So, glass wool fibers are longer, and this makes the material more durable and resilient. The hydrophobicity of this type of insulation is somewhat lower, but the coefficient of thermal insulation is higher. Quite often, the problem of choice is solved simply and effectively - both materials are chosen. Glass wool insulates the floor, and mineral wool - rafters.
How to insulate the walls of the attic - from the inside, without seams and fasteners
Ecowool is a more modern way to insulate the attic. The insulation technology itself is especially good. Using a hose and a special apparatus, pre-shredded material is blown into all the cracks and voids between ceilings and rafters. The hose can be reached where no human has gone before, that is, to the most remote corners, where, even bending over, one cannot squeeze through.
Ecowool itself consists of 80% cellulose - this can be ordinary shredded waste paper mixed with flame retardant and antiseptic substances, most often boric acid and borax. To bind the fibers into a monolithic sheath, a small amount of lignin is used, which is activated when moistened. The heat-insulating properties of this material are no worse than those of glass wool, but glass wool is more dangerous for human health - its fibers irritate the respiratory tract. Ecowool also has a high sound insulation index.
Another sprayed insulation is polyurethane foam. The service life of this material is at least 25 years. It also does not need to be additionally fixed - due to its high adhesion to all materials except polyethylene, it will perfectly adhere to both vertical and horizontal surfaces. The polyurethane layer perfectly fills all the voids during the spraying process. True, its spraying requires a special installation. However, the unit can certainly be rented - the process of using it is quite simple and will be clear even to a person far from construction. As a rule, one portable unit is enough for 100 square meters of area.
Warming the walls of the attic from the inside - step by step
If the attic was planned during the construction of the house, then the roof structure will have a special shape - in such cases, the roof elements themselves act as the walls of the attic. If an additional room is created inside the attic, additional construction of internal walls 1–1.5 meters high may be required. At the same time, the height of the attic itself should be at least two meters, and the width should be at least two and a half meters.
Three action scenarios are possible:
- A layer of thermal insulation is laid on top of the supporting frame.
- Thermal insulation materials are laid from the inside of the room.
- Thermal insulation fills the space between the structural elements of the frame.
The first scenario is feasible if the attic is a pre-planned and designed part of the house, and the insulation is carried out in the complex of works on the facade. In this case, the truss structures are directly elements of the attic room, and the insulation is carried out on top of them. Internal walls may or may not be insulated.
In the second case, a layer of insulation is laid from the inside of the attic, after which finishing work is carried out. The third option is possible only in the case of wooden rafters, since the metal elements will freeze through and accumulate condensate.
It is important that the thickness of the insulation is less than the thickness of the elements themselves - in this case, air will circulate between them.
Floor insulation, as a rule, is laid between the lags or directly on the subfloor, after which a sheet pile or other leveling material is laid. Until now, do not forget the numerous homemade products and the old grandfather's way, mixed with lime. Lime prevents mice from entering the space between the subfloor and the finish floor. However, such material is quite combustible, so if you want to arrange rooms with a lot of electrical equipment in the attic, then it is better to use a different technology.
If ecowool is used for spraying, then you first need to fill a special crate on the surface, for which it will cling. Polyurethane foam does not need any crate, it is applied from the inside to the already assembled roof, then it is sewn up with drywall slabs.
It is very important to follow all the ventilation rules when insulating - there is always a risk of wetting the thermal insulation. The only thing that can prevent rotting, mold, or at least an unpleasant smell is good ventilation. It is also better to entrust the installation of windows to specialists who are well versed in their field - they must prevent the possibility of water flowing into the room. Please note that the price of such flaws or errors can cost you a lot, up to a major overhaul of the entire attic space.
Properly executed insulation of the attic roof is the key to a comfortable atmosphere in this room, and a long service life of the interior decoration of the attic room. In order to be warm and comfortable in winter, and in summer you are not disturbed by heat and stuffy air, it is very important not only to choose the right heat-insulating materials, but also to mount them in compliance with the technology. Today we will tell you how to insulate a mansard roof with your own hands, which heaters are best suited for this purpose, and most importantly, how to avoid common installation errors that reduce all efforts to almost zero results. You will learn all the most important things about the insulation of the mansard roof - the video clips attached to the article will clearly demonstrate all the subtleties of this work.
Insulation of the attic roof has its own characteristics, due to the fact that the walls of the living space are directly adjacent to the roof, more precisely, they actually form a single whole with it. That is why it is customary to pay close attention to the insulation of the mansard roof from the inside, which allows you to ensure a normal microclimate in the room. Before we start talking about how to insulate the attic roof from the inside, let's figure out what layers the so-called “roofing pie” consists of, and why it is so important to arrange these layers in the right sequence:
The diagram shows the correct order of arrangement of the elements of the thermal insulation system of the attic roof
What is the reason for this arrangement of layers? Elementary laws of physics. Imagine that a decent layer of snow fell in winter, which, by the way, is a natural heat insulator. As a result of the life of people living in an attic house, warm air will rise from the inside to the surface of the roof. The snow covering it will melt. And as soon as the temperature outside drops below zero, an ice crust forms, which no longer has any heat-insulating properties. The essence of proper insulation of the attic roof is to prevent the snow from melting in winter and the penetration of scorching heat in summer.
The scheme of air movement in the under-roof space, and the work of the vapor barrier during the insulation of the mansard roof
You will learn more about the device of the "roofing pie" and the principles of the correct operation of all its components from this informative video:
The better to insulate the attic roof: the choice of insulation
There are four most important criteria, based on which it is necessary to choose a high-quality insulation for a mansard roof:
- Thermal conductivity;
- moisture resistance;
- fire safety;
- Ecological purity.
The first parameter can be called decisive, since it is precisely on how low the thermal conductivity of the material you choose depends on its thickness, the number of layers, and most importantly, its efficiency.
Important Insulation for a mansard roof with a coefficient of thermal conductivity not higher than 0.05 W / m * K can be considered sufficiently high-quality and reliable.
The second indicator is also important, especially for the attic roof truss system made of wood. The resistance of the insulation to moisture will allow you to worry less about the possibility of damage and decay of wood. Why the fire safety of insulating materials is important, it is probably unnecessary to say. And, finally, the environmental friendliness of the insulation in the case of attic rooms is also of great importance, especially if it is a bedroom or a children's room in the attic.
Comparative table of building and finishing materials with an indication of their thermal conductivity coefficient
As shown in the picture above, insulating a mansard roof with ecowool is an excellent solution, since this mineral insulation meets all four criteria for choosing a material. However, it cannot be called the most affordable, so many craftsmen refuse to use ecowool in favor of cheaper, but no less effective heaters. For example, insulation of the attic roof with polyurethane foam allows you to achieve the same excellent effect, while saving money. Among the effective mineral and polymer insulation can also be called:
- Basalt wool;
- glass wool;
- extruded polystyrene foam;
- Styrofoam.
By the way, it is the insulation of the mansard roof with foam plastic that can be called the most economical and simplest method. But it is worth remembering that the foam does not let steam through, moreover, rodents often settle in it. Expanded polystyrene can be called a more modern and technically advanced alternative to conventional foam. This video will help you choose the best option for insulation for the attic roof:
How to properly insulate the roof of the attic with your own hands
Do-it-yourself insulation of a mansard roof is not at all difficult; for this you do not need to have the skills of a professional builder. The specifics of the installation of thermal insulation depends entirely on the type of insulation material you have chosen. If the attic roof is insulated with mineral wool or glass wool, the process will take a little longer than in the case of polystyrene or polystyrene. The fact is that cotton wool is stacked in several layers to achieve a good effect, and requires additional vapor barrier, because it strongly absorbs moisture.
The technology of insulation of the attic roof from the inside with mineral wool on the example of a broken gable roof
The thickness of the mansard roof insulation is directly proportional to its thermal conductivity, that is, the denser and more reliable the material, the less it will be needed. Usually, during the installation of thermal insulation, an additional layer is made from cotton wool to cover the rafters. But this categorically does not suit many owners of residential attics, since truss beams can act as an important decorative element of the future interior of the attic room. If you consider yourself one of these owners, extruded polystyrene foam is preferable for you, a small layer of which is laid between the rafters.
Advice Before starting work on roof insulation, consider the future design of the attic space, and select the type and method of laying thermal insulation that best suits your interior design.
For everyone who wants to know in detail how to insulate a mansard roof - the video below. This short film tells about the insulation of the roof of a wooden country house made of glued laminated timber with a gable roof with the help of the most modern and high-quality heat-insulating material - extruded polystyrene foam.
1. Method for calculating the distance between the rafters
2. Rafter structure for corrugated board
3. Roof structure for ceramic tiles
4. Rafter structure for metal tiles
5. Rafter structure for ondulin
6. Rafter structure for slate coating
7. Rafters for single-pitched and double-pitched roofs
The roof frame must be reliable and durable.
But without well-conducted calculations, this is difficult to achieve. In the process of carrying out the calculations, it is determined at what distance to put the rafters on the roof.
What can lead to an incorrect or inaccurate calculation of the loads that the truss structure will undergo? To the most negative consequences, ranging from deformation of the rafter legs and damage to the roof covering and ending with the collapse of the base of the roof frame. Therefore, when designing buildings, the list of mandatory calculations contains data on what should be the distance between the roof rafters.
There is a certain technique that allows you to calculate this value.
Method for calculating the distance between the rafters
The distance between the rafters on the roof is called the pitch of the rafters. As a rule, the step of the rafters in the roof structure usually exceeds one meter, and the minimum gap varies within 60 centimeters.
The calculation of the required number of rafters for a roof of a certain length and the pitch of the rafters is carried out as follows:
- before calculating the length of the rafters, measure the length of the slope along the eaves of the roof;
- the resulting value is divided by the selected distance between the rafters.
For example, the step is one meter, so it must be divided by one, and if it is 60 centimeters, then the divisor will be 0.6;
- then one is added to the result, and the total is rounded up.
Thus, by simple calculations, the number of rafters that must be installed to equip one roof slope is determined.
After that, the length of the slope is divided by the number of rafters obtained, as a result of which the value of the interaxal gap between the rafters, called the step, is obtained.
For example, with a roof slope of 25.5 meters and a step of 0.6 meters, the calculation is performed as follows:
25.5: 0.6 \u003d 42.5 + 1 \u003d 43.5, after rounding to the nearest whole number, the result will be 44 - so many rafters will be needed for the roof slope.
This simple technique, which allows you to determine at what distance the rafters for the roof are placed, does not take into account the features of the roofing material used.
Rafter structure for corrugated board
The step of the rafter system when creating a roof from this material should be at least 600 millimeters, and the maximum step of the rafters under corrugated board should not exceed 900 millimeters.
When the gap is larger, then it is necessary to install transverse boards with a large cross section. In this case, the cross section of the rafters themselves is selected in size
50x100 millimeters or 50x150 millimeters (read: "Installation and dimensions of roof rafters").
For laying corrugated board, a crate of boards of 30x100 millimeters is required, it is mounted with a step of 500 mm or more, depending on the thickness of the roofing material and the height of the trapezoid.
When a crate for corrugated board is created, the board facing the eaves should be 10-15 millimeters thicker than the rest. The design of the crate must allow passage for fastening such vertical elements as ventilation pipes, a chimney, etc.
Roof structure for ceramic tiles
The design features of the rafters for laying ceramic tiles are due to the fact that clay is the raw material for its manufacture - the material is quite heavy, its weight is 10 times greater than that of metal tiles.
Thus, the load on the supporting system of the roof, based on one square meter of area, is from 40 to 60 kilograms.
Rafters for such a frame system must be made from well-dried wood, the moisture content of which does not exceed 15%. For their production, a bar with a section of 50x150 millimeters or 60x180 millimeters (for reliability) is used.
In this case, the step of the truss system is 80 - 130 centimeters, depending on the steepness of the roof slope. So at an angle of inclination equal to 15 degrees, the distance between the rafters is 80 centimeters, and at 75 degrees - 130 centimeters.
When calculating the step between the rafters, experts take into account their length.
At the maximum value of the length of the elements, when performing work, the minimum distance between them is observed. With short rafters, it should be as large as possible.
Safe movement on a roof with a slope of less than 45 degrees can be made if the rafter pitch does not exceed 80-85 centimeters.
When arranging a ceramic roof, there is another feature - this is a certain size of the crate step, with which it is stuffed onto the rafters. It depends on the type of tiles purchased.
The simplest way to calculate the pitch of the crate is to take into account that most of the tiles have a length of 400 millimeters, and the overlap during laying is from 55 to 90 millimeters.
Therefore, in this case, the pitch of the crate is equal to the length of the tile minus the amount of overlap, which is 310-345 millimeters (read: "Crate of the roof for metal tiles: installation and fastening").
When the roof has several slopes, as in the photo, the sheathing step and the number of rows of tiles are calculated for each step of the rafters separately.
Mansard roof insulation: video instruction
The marking of the rows is carried out with the help of a cord fixed on the counter-lattice, which is located on opposite sides of the roof slope (read also the article: “Crate step for corrugated board”).
Roof structure for metal roofing
During the construction of suburban private real estate, metal roofing can be found most often.
This roofing material is similar to the flooring made of clay tiles, but in comparison with it has a number of advantages. Sheet metal tiles are easy to install, so you can build a roof in a shorter time, the rafter system for metal tiles is also not difficult.
Metal tiles are lighter than ceramic products, the difference in weight sometimes reaches 35 kilograms per square meter, depending on the thickness of the products (read also: “Arrangement of a rafter system for metal tiles - design options, rafter pitch”).
Due to a significant reduction in the weight of the roofing, it becomes possible to reduce the thickness of the elements of the rafter structure and the cross-sectional dimensions of the lathing bars, and increase the installation step of the rafters.
Under the metal-tiled coating, the rafter legs are mounted with a distance of 600 to 950 millimeters, while the cross section of the construction material is 150 by 50 millimeters.
According to experts, in this case, if a heater 150 millimeters thick is placed between the rafters, then such thermal insulation will create comfortable conditions for staying in the attic room. At the same time, for greater reliability, it is advisable to choose a 200 mm insulation.
When installing rafters, to ensure ventilation of the space that is filled with insulation, holes with a diameter of 10-12 millimeters are drilled in the rafters near the upper roof.
The technology for creating a truss system for metal tiles does not differ significantly from structures for other types of roofing materials.
The only feature is that at the rafters, the upper support is mounted on the ridge run from above, and not on the side of the ridge beam. The presence of a free zone between the rafters ensures air circulation under the roofing, and this, due to the use of metal material, reduces the risk of condensation.
When installing the roof in a wooden house, when it is planned to replace the Mauerlat with the upper crown, if it is incorrect to calculate at what distance the rafters are placed, it will be difficult to correct the error (read also: “How to calculate the rafters on the roof”).
Rafter structure for ondulin
When creating a roof from ondulin, the pitch of the truss system should be at least 600 millimeters, and the maximum distance between the rafters should not exceed 900 millimeters.
For the rafter system, boards of 50x200 millimeters are selected and thereby provide an insignificant margin of safety, taking into account the rafter runs.
On top of the counter-lattice and the truss structure, a crate of 40x50 mm timber is laid with an interaxal step of 60 centimeters (read the article: “Ondulin or metal tile - which is better”).
Rafter construction under a covering from slate
Slate is one of the most popular roofing materials. For its installation, choose rafters with a section of 50x100 or 50x150 millimeters. When deciding how far to put the rafters, one must proceed from the fact that the minimum value cannot be less than 600 millimeters, and the maximum - 800 millimeters (more: "How to put the rafters on the house").
For the manufacture of crates, a wooden beam with a section of 50x50 millimeters or a board of 25x100 millimeters is used.
The step of the lathing is selected depending on the angle of the slope of the roof slope. If it is insignificant, then it is enough for the sheet of material to rest on 4 bars in increments of 45 centimeters, and with a large slope, 3 bars in increments of 630 to 650 millimeters will suffice.
How to make the installation of a roof from corrugated board with your own hands, a detailed video instruction:
Rafters for single-pitched and double-pitched roofs
When creating a rafter structure, one should remember the need to provide the system with an additional margin of safety, while taking into account the pitch of the rafters.
The distance between the rafters of a pitched roof is chosen depending on the thickness of the wood and the material of the roof - it can be from 60 to 140 centimeters. The thickness of the wood elements depends on the area and load on the roof (read: "Rafter system of a pitched roof, main advantages and characteristics").
The distance between the rafters of a gable roof is made taking into account the size of the heat insulator that is laid between them. The approximate step between the rafter legs is 1-1.2 meters (read: "The gable roof truss system and its components"). Rafters regulate the size of the roof overhang.
Insulation of the attic from the inside, if the roof is already covered
The desire of many owners of country houses to make the most of the area of \u200b\u200bthe house makes them pay attention to the attic. It often happens that it is easier to equip an attic than to expand a house by adding a residential building to it. Since the attic is part of the roof of the house, it is with the thermal insulation of the roof that the arrangement of the attic floor should begin. Consider how to properly insulate the attic with mineral wool and show detailed video instructions on the topic.
It is necessary to insulate the attic with mineral wool and equip the attic under the room if the roof of the house allows you to make the ceiling in this room of sufficient height and it will be possible to strengthen the interfloor ceilings in order to safely walk in the attic.
If these two conditions are feasible, then you can safely proceed to independent thermal insulation of the attic with basalt mineral wool for living in winter.
The better to insulate the attic
First, consider the most important question - the better to insulate the attic with foam or mineral wool. Let's determine which heat-insulating material is suitable for proper insulation of the roof of the attic floor.
To do this, the following parameters should be taken into account: thermal conductivity coefficient, resistance to high temperatures and moisture, fire safety, environmental friendliness and low weight.
Most of these requirements are met by fiberglass or mineral wool. Unlike basalt insulation, Technoplex expanded polystyrene does not withstand high temperatures and is a very combustible material.
Knauf glass wool and Rocklight basalt wool is a fire-resistant and fire-resistant material, and with high-quality vapor barrier, mineral wool will not be afraid of moisture.
Comparison of building materials by thermal conductivity
Mineral wool is made from natural material - basalt. The material has a density of 18 to 45 kg / m³, has good heat-insulating and sound-absorbing properties.
Insulation of mansard roofs from the inside, instruction and video
We reviewed various grades of mineral wool, their purpose and characteristics in the Inorganic Thermal Insulation section. Therefore, we will not dwell on this topic separately.
Ways to insulate the attic at home with mineral wool
The attic is insulated in two ways: under the rafters and between them. The easiest way is to place mineral wool between the rafters. This method is used to insulate the roof even at the stage of building a house, but you can use the technology even after construction is completed.
You can do the thermal insulation of the attic with your own hands, if you have sufficient competence.
In addition to this method, there is also a technology for placing basalt insulation under the rafters.
This technology provides for the construction of an additional frame for the installation of mineral wool, which entails an increase in costs. However, this method has an important advantage - the absence of cold bridges between the insulation and the rafters, which will protect the wood from possible wetting and decay.
Insulation of the attic with the location of thermal insulation under the rafters will be easier and more correct, but at the same time the area of \u200b\u200bthe room is lost.
In both cases, the use of a vapor barrier in order to cut off the moist air of a warm room from penetrating into the basalt fiber and moistening it. You should also take care of ventilation in the attic of the space between the roof and the insulation.
We warm the attic with mineral wool with our own hands
1. Construction of the frame of the attic room
The mineral wool should be located at a distance between the guides of the frame, for this the timber is installed at a width of a smaller width of the insulation by 1-1.5 cm.
The thickness of the timber should be equal to or greater than the thickness of the thermal insulation in the attic. To do this, you should use a heat engineering calculator to calculate the thickness of the mineral fiber insulation for the roof and attic of a private house.
Condensation often forms on a metal roof, so wood treatment with an antiseptic is necessary to protect it from moisture.
2.
Laying mineral wool in the frame
Rocklight mineral wool or another brand is placed in the frame, the plates should be placed in a spacer, without gaps. It is better to lay the slabs in two rows so that the second layer of mineral wool overlaps the joints of the first row. Do not forget that when working with mineral wool, you should protect yourself from mineral wool microparticles floating in the air by putting on gloves, a respirator and other personal protective equipment.
Insulation of the attic with mineral wool from the inside and outside
3.
Installing a vapor barrier membrane
To protect glass wool or mineral wool from moisture, cover the entire structure with a super diffuse membrane. The material is able to pass air, preventing the penetration of moisture particles and wetting of mineral wool.
To do this, you should find out which side to lay the vapor barrier to the insulation, otherwise you may encounter serious problems when operating the attic.
4. Sheathing the frame with drywall
Before sheathing the frame, wooden slats 20-30 mm thick should be filled to create a gap between the false wall and the vapor barrier film.
This air will allow moisture to evaporate more efficiently from the surface of the film. Many people use foil penofol instead of vapor barrier, the material provides additional insulation, reflects heat and protects the mineral wool from moisture.
A photo. Do-it-yourself attic sheathing with drywall
5. Plasterboard wall decoration
The seams between the sheets of drywall are glued with masking tape and puttied.
After the rough layer has dried, the putty is sanded, and the entire surface of the wall is primed. At the last stage, all the walls in the attic are covered with finishing putty, wallpapered or painted. Watch the video at the end of the article for all the stages of attic insulation with mineral wool from the inside.
6. Laying the floor on the attic floor
After insulating the ceiling and walls, you should start laying the floor finish. A substrate for a laminate or parquet board is spread on the subfloor, and the floor covering is laid on top.
Self-insulation of the attic with mineral wool is not an extremely difficult task, and if you have experience in working with a construction tool, then the work can be done on your own.
