Sealing seams in wooden houses. Ways to eliminate gaps between log crowns How to insulate the seams between logs

When it comes to finishing the seams between timber or logs, literature alone will not be enough, since a dozen books will provide you with as many caulking options for your consideration. Of course, deliberately false information rarely gets on the pages of directories, but this still happens, and it is quite difficult to identify it among other data.

The most reliable advice on how to close the gaps between the logs will only be given by an experienced craftsman, or at least a person who has actually tried what he is talking about. And, interestingly, many agree that moss is one of the most effective materials for caulking. Often on the outskirts of the swamps you can see a whole carpet of sphagnum, which, while still wet, is easily stuffed into the joints between the crowns.

Only such a caulk can be called high-quality, in which a sharp awl enters the gap between the logs no less heavily than into wood.

A more common and equally environmentally friendly way to seal cracks is to fill them with tow coated with gypsum or cement mortar, or simply tamping this consumable available to everyone without any additives. Instead, you can use hemp or jute fiber. The difference between hemp and tow is insignificant - the first is a derivative of flax, less often hemp, the second is obtained only from hemp.

These materials were also used by our ancestors, so today they will prove to be just as good. The only thing that can create inconvenience is if you suddenly need to saw through a new window or make another opening for the pigtail, it will be difficult to use a chainsaw - tow and hemp clog the flail and blunt it.

Modern putty for logs

In addition to natural materials for sealing the seams between the log crowns (some of which you don’t even need to buy, just go to the forest or swamp), modern industry can offer a lot of synthetic ones. There is no need to talk about environmental friendliness here, but reliability is definitely observed, which, in fact, is required from such putties.

Some "specialists" advise using silicone sealant, but this method of sealing the seams will only aggravate the situation, since the wood tends to absorb moisture, and if it evaporates worse somewhere, rot will almost certainly form there.

In stores you can find a lot of special sealants based on polyurethane, which are not afraid of ultraviolet radiation and temperature extremes. This putty for logs is suitable for filling joints both outside and inside the log house. Never use canned polyurethane sealants as they generally don't like sunlight.

It is important to know: a sufficiently elastic material is needed to seal the seams, since the wooden house "breathes", it absorbs moisture and releases it, heats up and cools down, due to all these factors, there is a slight, but constant movement of the logs. Under such conditions, the same mounting foam will simply burst in a few months.

How is caulking and laying between logs performed?

Before sealing the seams between the logs, think about what you will have under the putty. The fact is that it is irrational and uneconomical to completely fill the gaps with sealants, since they can turn out to be quite deep, and there are usually at least 40 such seams in a log house.

Therefore, you should immediately decide whether you will use a natural aggregate or synthetic. We mentioned natural materials for caulking above, as for artificial ones, many craftsmen agree that it is best to use a polyethylene foam cord, it comes in different diameters, you can choose the width of the slots.

Having hammered the seams with maximum density, we begin to cover the caulk with sealant. First, stick masking tape on both sides of the gap so as not to stain the entire log with putty. If you used a felt pad between the logs when laying logs or timber (some people recommend moss as such a layer, it is better not to use glass wool), fill the gaps with a breathable material, such as tow.

Now, as for the coating itself: you can do it with your fingers, but it will be ugly, it is better to use a special rubber spatula for joints, which is successfully used when applying grout for tiles. To finally close the joints, you can nail flashings that fit perfectly into the overall style of the log house.

Oddly enough, the centuries-old methods of sealing seams in wooden houses remain optimal in our time. Before our ancestors, the question of how to close the cracks in the log house did not stand at all, because the correct answer grew in most forests and copses. This answer is called "natural moss". It perfectly protects the joints and seams not only from the penetration of wind, but also from moisture. Another thing is that finding a sufficient amount of natural moss is not easy, and the sealing itself will be laborious. When using natural materials to seal the gaps between the timber and the logs, a very high packing density is required.

Whatever sealing composition you choose, it flew out of the new slots in a month or two. It turns out that synthetic sealing is possible only if the house is non-residential - you won’t endure drafts and frost inside it for a whole year, right? Sealing joints between logs is categorically incompatible with mounting foam and silicone and polyurethane sealants. They are destroyed under the influence of sunlight and do not prevent the wood from rotting.

Tow for insulating joints in wood can be purchased at a hardware store. The purchase must be made immediately in large quantities, so even a narrow gap can "absorb" a large amount of tow. Natural moss does not need additional reinforcement - the tow can be soaked with a liquid, flowing solution of cement or gypsum. High-quality protection of the joints between the logs is provided by natural hemp, and outwardly it looks attractive.

It is also forbidden to combine them with natural moss, hemp and tow, such a "hybrid" connection has an unacceptably low strength. Synthetic sealant for joints and gaps between logs should be elastic, similar in consistency to glass putty. It is better to select the right brand in accordance with the type of wood and in accordance with the recommendations of the company that built your house. If builders advise natural caulking - alas, you will have to put up with it and take up the laborious procedure for protecting your home.

Sealant for wooden houses, sealing joints, sealing cracks. As a result, between logs, beams and boards, there is an increase in sealing seams and eliminating cracks in wooden structures in those years, I did not find him, served under his leadership later, but heard everything. Light House - sealant for wood Perma-Chink, Energy-Seal Sealant for a wooden house As a result, gaps between logs, beams and boards increase, seal seams and eliminate cracks in wooden structures in Designed to seal cracks in logs and completely protect these sealing log cabins - Photo houses, log house photos, picture houses

Sealant for closing seams and cracks Remmers Acryl 100Shvideryanoy house between logs or beams; Seal cracks up to 5 cm wide Then everyone knows that he is in the house. On products are not allowed: rot, wormhole, cracks, chips, etc. and cracks can form in the frontons, which will be very close because it allows the logs to fit as tightly as possible to each other. Articles. Wooden house company.

Naturally, these cracks can be repaired with something. The process of shrinking a wooden house and constantly closing the gaps between the logs, increase each man-hour is priceless. The German quality of the gun for sealant in tubes will allow you to quickly, efficiently and beautifully repair cracks, gaps between the logs of the log house. Joint gun Druckluft - Dichtstoffpistole

Recently, on the Internet, more and more often you can find questions, disputes, debates and discussions on the topic of what is better to use for sealing interventional seams and crevices, as well as for sealing cracks in logs and beams: the long-known tow or modern, specially wood sealants designed for such purposes? From the information that is now present in various forums, in articles and comments, it may be believed that tow and sealant are interchangeable materials, and the use of one completely eliminates the need to use the other. In fact this is not true.

1. In the process of tree shrinkage, the gaps between the logs can either narrow or expand. Once laid insulation is not enough, and they have to be laid again. In the first year after construction, it is recommended to repeat the procedure for summing up the tow THREE TIMES in order to exclude blowing and freezing of the seams. The application of Eurotex Wood Joint Sealant eliminates the need for re-caulking. This is a highly elastic composition (elongation coefficient - 200%), it withstands natural shifts of the log house, without cracking or peeling, "moves" along with the tree, expanding and shrinking without losing the tightness of the seam.

Imagine that you are collecting a log house. Structurally, ideal logs do not exist, therefore, one way or another, there will be a need for some kind of connecting, sealing material that will be laid between the logs. But such sealants that are popular today will be indispensable when processing an already assembled device to provide additional thermal insulation, protection against moisture ingress and the development of biodamages.

When building a house from a log or timber, one important feature of wood should be taken into account: it is a “living” material that has natural irregularities, cracks and shrinks. There are always structural gaps between the logs - seams that need to be sealed so that freezing and blowing through them do not occur. In addition, the joints of logs are the most favorable place for the development of mold and mildew.

In our article today, we wanted to touch on the topic of wooden log cabins, or rather, methods for eliminating cracks in wood, which sooner or later appear due to climatic conditions. In addition, precious heat leaves the house through the cracks, and against the backdrop of constantly rising prices for heat carriers, this is now very important. Therefore, we will consider heat-insulating trees and ways to seal the walls of the log house. Wood is a living material, so wood structures can change their linear size during operation, and gaps and cracks can appear in logs (photo 1). Traditionally, residential wooden houses along bath log cabins are insulated by caulking the seams with moss or tow. Currently, the modern construction industry is invited to solve the problem of sealing the seams of wooden log cabins with the help of new technologies. Instead of the usual caulking, construction companies offer homeowners a wide range of sealants that are designed specifically for wood. Simplicity and ease of use are guaranteed.

Cotton wool is treated with an anti-rotten compound and packed into pressed briquettes. Unlike tow, sparrows and tits cannot be pulled out of the joints of the log house with synthetic wool. Cotton wool should tightly fill the gap between the logs (photo 5)

The use of moss or tow requires certain professionalism and skills if the log house is made of raw logs. In these cases, the quality of caulking can be checked with an awl: it should go into a layer of tow or moss with the same effort as in a wooden log (photo 3). In addition, you need to caulk all the walls of the log house at the same time, moving along the perimeter. Caulking a separate section of the wall can lead to a warp of the entire frame. Caulking of a wooden frame must be carried out 2 times: after the installation of the frame and after its shrinkage, which will take place in one or two years.

Jute ropes are very reliable. They are made on the basis of an annual plant growing in the tropics - jute. The ropes are difficult to stretch, strong, reliable, have an excellent appearance and are able to beautifully close even very ugly seams between logs. There are several types of jute ropes on the market. The thickness can be 6-110 millimeters. For finishing a wooden house, a rope with a thickness of 10 to 22 millimeters is ideal. In fact, a lot depends on the thickness of the logs in the log house itself. The thicker the logs, the larger the rope should be so that it does not get lost against the background of the log house and provides the necessary decorative effect. It should be noted that jute rope can be used both for processing external walls and for internal walls. The rope is fastened with special nails. The process of laying the rope itself is laborious and requires great care. The rope should lay flat in the space between the logs.

When the wooden frame is already completely ready, it's time to think about high-quality processing. I would like the seams between the logs, which do not always turn out to be quite attractive and presentable, to be hidden, if not completely, then at least partially. But at the same time, I would not like to cover beautiful logs with panels, finishing plates and other similar materials. After all, the tree itself looks quite beautiful!

In the past, moss stuck out from under the logs. It was used as the main insulation, but no one tried to hide it - it was unreasonably expensive and required a lot of effort. As a result, the houses remained with bare moss. Today, many materials are used to insulate a log house. Some of them are completely safe, while experienced builders began to refuse others. Someone prefers gypsum, others choose brick, but all this does not allow to properly process the seams of the log house. But do not be upset! We are pleased to present to your attention a jute rope.

What to do if there are cracks in the logs, timber or block house? What are the materials for their termination and how to use them correctly? Is it possible to do it yourself? You will find answers to these and many other questions, as well as professional advice, in this article.

A hundred years ago, a log house was the most popular option for housing construction. In our forest-rich area, towers and huts have been built from time immemorial with the help of an ax and a saw, shifting hand-hewn logs with moss. The craftsmen reached perfection in working with wood, but rapid progress gave people new materials, made it possible to calibrate timber and cylinder logs. Today, houses made of timber or logs are “environmentally friendly antiquity”, accessible to the majority. However, the tree remained a tree, and the problems that the owners faced hundreds of years ago are still relevant today. Only the ways to solve them have changed. This will be discussed.

Interesting fact. What is the difference between a tower and a hut? The hut has only one floor. Everything that had more than one floor was called a tower.

Longitudinal cracks in wood

What you should know in advance when choosing a wooden house:

With all the natural advantages, the tree retains natural disadvantages - hygroscopicity, susceptibility to decomposition, oxidation of the outer layer, torsion, drying out, shrinkage, etc.
For all the cases listed above, there are modern "antidotes".
The log house requires constant care during operation. Different works are carried out with different intervals (1/3/5/10 seasons).
A house made of logs or timber will retain enough heat only in mild winters (up to -15 with normal humidity). For living in a colder period, insulation or enhanced heating will be required.
The tree is afraid of wind, moisture and sun. Therefore, the ideal place for a wooden house is the natural environment (woodland).
Wood has the highest fire hazard of all building materials (for walls).

Read more about the construction of log houses in the articles: “Choosing a log house for a wooden house”, “Do you want a good house? Choose: timber or log "," How to build the house of your dreams - glued laminated timber, material features ".

So, all the nuances are taken into account, the house is built or bought, and we are ready to deal with all the problems, bringing the appearance and performance to perfection.

Due to the fibrous structure, a log or timber has defects that propagate longitudinally. A transverse crack or dent occurs extremely rarely in the event of overload or rotting of the material. The log in such cases is not subject to repair, but to full or partial replacement.

Longitudinal cracks by location in the structure (direction) are divided into:

Direct. Approximately coincide with the axis of the log (beam).
Spiral (uneven). Does not match axis.
Segment. Irregular cracks with fiber transition.

In all cases, one selected method is used. As a rule, this is warming and subsequent sealing of the sinus. This combined method is the simplest and most affordable to date. It is suitable for cracks with an opening width of 5 mm. Smaller defects are sealed with a special sealant. The described method is perfect for a block house.

Question. Why not seal all the cracks with only sealant?

Answer. It will be very expensive due to the high consumption of sealant. At the same time, its thermal insulation properties are an order of magnitude lower than the insulation.

What you need:

Heat-insulating filler. It can be a special thermal harness or just a strip of foam rubber.
Sealant, professional gun.
Knives, metal scrapers.
Hand sprayer with water.
Pieces of foam rubber, rags.

Attention! Before starting work, make sure that the wall material is dry (normal humidity). Treat the internal cavities with an antiseptic.

Operating procedure:

1. We clean the edges of the crack from sawdust, loose wood, wood chips.

2. We fill the cavity with a thermal harness (foam rubber). Outside, ½-¼ cracks remain for laying the sealant.

Attention! If you are using foam rubber, do not tamp it hard. Any insulation in a compressed state loses its properties. The thermal harness is not subject to crushing.

3. We put the sealant in the bosom.

4. Smooth the sealant along the edges with a foam brush so that a continuous smooth surface is obtained. For the best effect, you can soak the sealant with water from a spray bottle.

Attention! Don't do it with your finger. The quality will be low, but the risk of getting a splinter will be high.

5. We remove the remnants of the sealant from the surface with a rag.

6. The exposure time for further processing is indicated in the instructions.

The choice of sealant is the most critical part of this work, if you do it yourself or the “good craftsman problem” is solved. An experienced specialist will advise the appropriate option. Most of these products are universal - suitable for any type of work. "Internal" sealants, as a rule, differ slightly in price from "external". The firms producing them have an assortment of related products - thermal harness, felt.

Sealants for cracks and joints of logs and timber:

Name, manufacturer	Release form	Unit price, rub.	Consumption, g / rm. m*	The cost of processing 1 running. m, rub.
NEOMID Teply Dom Wood Professional, Russia	Cartridge 310 ml (420 g)	200	70	25
	File package 600 ml (815 g)	360
	Bucket 15 kg	5400
EUROTEX joint sealant for wood NPP Rogneda, Russia	Bucket 3 kg	1100	170	54
	Bucket 6 kg	2000
	Bucket 25 kg	8000
TENAX Tenaplasts, Latvia	File package 600 ml (815 g)	240	75	52
TENAX Tenaplasts, Latvia	Bucket 15 kg	3500	75	52
Therma-Chink Accent, Russia	Cartridge 400 g	280	70	28
	Tube 900 g	360
	Bucket 3 kg	1200
	Bucket 6 kg	2350
	Bucket 7 kg	2700
	Bucket 15 kg	5800
PermaChink, USA	Cartridge (probe) 325 ml	800	63	110
PermaChink, USA	Bucket 19 l	19000	63	110

* - consumption is indicated per 1 meter of a running joint 10 mm wide and 5 mm deep (0.5 cm 2)

Question. And yet, what is the difference between a thermal harness and a simple foam rubber?

Answer. Condensation can accumulate in the pores of the foam rubber and eventually destroy the material.

Thermal harnesses are made of polyethylene, are universal and can be used with any sealant. Energoflex sealing cords are the most convenient and popular type of this material. It is produced by different companies, but the name "Energoflex" is used by almost everyone.

Sealing cords (bundles):

Name	Manufacturer	Diameter, mm	Price 1 line m	Release form
Cord Energoflex	Russia	6	5	Bay 800 m
	Russia	20	20	Bay 150 m
	Belgium	6	6	Bay 1500 m
	Belgium	8	6,5	Bay 900 m
wood security	Russia	6	5	Box 150-450 m
		10	9	Box 150-450 m
		20	21	Box 150-450 m
Vilaterm "Tilit"	Russia	6	2,9	Packing 800 m
		8	3.7	Packing 800 m
		20	7,5	Packing 150 m

In houses made of long timber or logs, in addition to natural cracks in solid wood, horizontal gaps appear at the junctions of elements. Even if the initial laying is done with high quality, it still happens due to natural reasons - the shrinkage of the tree. Measures to prevent problems associated with this phenomenon are taken depending on the material itself.

Slots at the junction of the calibrated timber

Here it is reasonable to mention the main advantage of a calibrated beam over a log. The presence of a tongue-and-groove system on the longitudinal edges of the beam reduces to zero the possibility of through passage of air. However, opening the joint even to a shallow depth allows cold air to pass inside the wall in winter, which contributes to the formation of condensate (cold bridge). Humidified air penetrates there in spring and autumn. The tree takes in moisture, and the processes of oxidation and decay can begin.

The modern method of blocking the joints of wooden log cabins looks the same as for slots. In this case, the same materials are used - sealant and Energoflex cord. Sealing materials for log cabins from different companies are usually labeled with the name "Warm Seam".

Cracks at the junction of logs

With a log, the situation is somewhat more complicated than with a bar. Here, in the case of severe shrinkage, through passages of air can occur. Typically, this problem occurs in homes that have not received prophylaxis at the right time. The log dries out, cold moist air enters through the expanded joint, the cushioning material (felt, moss, tow, jute) is destroyed and weathered. In this case, the load from the crowns in this place is unevenly distributed, which can lead to distortions.

In order to correct the situation, you need to caulk the joint.

Caulking is a dry method of filling joints between wood elements. This procedure came to us unchanged after thousands of years: a rope or tow hammered into a gap became a stronghold of navigation and wooden housing construction. Previously, for sealing, the material was impregnated with a hydrophobic composition - tar, resin and oils.

When insulating the seams, the caulked material is sealed on top with a sealed layer that does not conduct moisture. Therefore, there is no need for its additional hydrophobization.

What you need:

Spatula with hammer protection.
Hammer 500-800 g.
Jute, felt, tow.
Masking tape (optional).
Further - points from the description of crack sealing (except for the first one).

Operating procedure:

Using a spatula, the material is driven into the joint to a state of elasticity.
If desired, the edges of the joint are pasted over with masking tape.

Attention! In no case should not caulk cracks. This will lead to an increase in stress and crack propagation. Only light compaction is allowed.

The described sealing materials have a coefficient of (gradual) stretching up to 4. This allows the tree to "live" and at the same time does not depressurize joints and cracks. They are made on the basis of acrylic, non-toxic and subject to all types of processing - tinting, grinding, painting. The service life of sealants is usually from 20 years.

Wooden buildings are extremely attractive, both in terms of environmental friendliness and protection from the cold, and their appearance. Now there is a real trend in the construction of houses made of wood, and similar buildings, obviously not built in Soviet times, can be seen in various regions of the country. However, all the advantages of wooden houses appear only if there are no gaps between the logs in their walls. And about how to close these seams with traditional and modern methods, we will tell you in this material.

But first, I would like to go through the many advantages of such buildings, which made them so popular among our compatriots, and on a global scale as a whole. So, let's focus on the main ones:

Environmental friendliness. Houses made of natural materials, completely safe for the health of the people living in them. Moreover, a person in wooden houses gets sick less, has a higher body tone and vigor;
Wooden walls, with similar durability and strength, will be much thinner than their brick counterparts. So there is more space in such houses;
Wood is a very mediocre conductor of temperature. Thanks to this, in summer it is cool in such a dwelling, and in winter heat loss to the outside is minimal. Consequently, such a structure warms up faster, and less resources are spent on maintaining comfortable temperature conditions;
Wooden houses are lighter than concrete or brick ones, so the construction of a massive foundation is not required;
Wooden walls are very pleasing to the eye, so you can save a lot on finishing activities.

And this is only a small part of the advantages that such buildings have. Listing all or even most of them would be a very lengthy process. But already what is said above is enough to understand the reasons for the newly increased popularity of the tree. However, it is important that much of the above may not be available if the joints between the logs are not properly insulated.

How did our ancestors

Earlier, when there were simply no technologically advanced insulating materials on the market, our ancestors used moss, hemp or tow in their old log houses. However, even now many people decide to use such authentic methods. Moreover, many masters are still talking about their exceptional effectiveness. Finally, the advantages are that in this case we are talking about natural materials that are safe for health.

Moss can be placed in the gaps between the logs without any additives. However, finding sphagnum in sufficient quantities today is not easy. As for tow or hemp, in this case the ideal solution is to add a solution of gypsum or cement to them. Moreover, some experienced craftsmen in this matter can tamp these materials into the slots so firmly that sticking an awl into them will be no less difficult than into the wood itself.

Modern means of sealing cracks in wooden structures

There are no special means for sealing the seams between the logs, since sealants known to everyone are used for this. But not everyone is suitable for such work, and here's why.

Ordinary polyurethane foam is not suitable due to the constant, albeit small, mobility of the logs. Thus, the foam will only crack and flake over time. Silicone sealant is not suitable due to the fact that it does not absorb moisture well. And since the tree, as usual, does it very well, and also rots well, rot will necessarily form in those places of the log where there are problems with sufficient evaporation.

All of the above makes such sealants unsuitable for sealing joints between logs in wooden houses or barns. And the ideal solution is actually the use of polyurethane sealants. The latter can be actively used both inside and outside the building, as they perfectly tolerate temperature changes and retain their properties even in the most severe frosts. Such sealants are excellent, unless we are talking about those that are sold in cylinders, they also tolerate the effects of solar radiation, without reducing their insulating properties even from the most serious doses of ultraviolet radiation.

What needs to be placed under the sealant

First of all, it should be noted that there can be very, very many seams in a wooden frame - several tens and hundreds. However, there can be quite a lot of space between them. If you start to clog all this with sealant, you will get too much consumption, which will result in huge costs. Well, in the case of using natural ingredients, it is unlikely that you will be able to find so much moss at all.

All this speaks of the need to find something to put under the sealant. Experts say that the best material in this case is a cord made of polyethylene foam. Such a cord in itself is an excellent sealant, so it will not violate the thermal conductivity.

How to seal cracks in a wooden frame

Consider the process of sealing with modern methods, since there are few forests and swamps near the house in order to bring moss. While the same polyurethane sealant and polyethylene foam cord can be purchased at any outlet.

First of all, we place a cord in the hole between the logs, trying to hammer it there as tightly as possible;
We glue the edges of the logs with masking tape so as not to stain them during the application of the sealant;
It is best to apply the coating with your fingers. However, if there is not enough experience in this matter, then it is better to use a rubber spatula, which will help make the insulation more beautiful.

Conclusion

Log houses can provide the highest quality of life. But only if the technology of their construction is strictly observed. Particular attention must be paid to sealing all seams, as well as proper processing of wood in order to increase its fire resistance, moisture resistance and protection from pests. We will cover the latter points in more detail in future articles.

Any buildings made of wood (for example, a cottage or a bathhouse) necessarily need a reliable sealing of seams, cracks and intervents cracks between the timber and the logs. Some seal them in the old fashioned way with a caulk, but many choose a sealant for a log house, which is used during the construction period, as well as after the structure has completely shrunk.

1. The material must be plastic - this is the most important requirement for it. When the sealant dries, it becomes elastic, durable (it can elongate up to 300% when broken). If the frame shrinks, the seam repeats all its movements.

2. Seam sealer is harmless to health. Manufacturers guarantee its safety, non-toxicity.

3. Durability. Its service life reaches 20-25 years. But there are brands that last much longer. For example, "Terma Chink" from the Russian manufacturer "Oliva" reliably protects for 30 years.

4. Sealants protect the log house, its joints from mold, rot, harmful effects of the environment for a long time.

5. This material is fully UV resistant.

6. The sealant has excellent thermal insulation and vapor permeability properties. That is, keeping the house warm, it gives free access to fresh air, moisture vapor, the log house “breathes”.

7. Does not change its parameters at temperatures from -50 to +70 degrees Celsius. This means that it can be used in different climatic zones. It will also serve perfectly if the bath requires repair, in the steam room of which high temperatures almost constantly “live”.

8. Working with it does not require special skills, being performed much faster than caulking.

9. Old seams will not need to be removed if any damage is found. It will be enough to apply a new layer on the surface with flaws.

10. Seams sealed with modern sealants are aesthetic. You can buy a material of any color (or paint it after drying with acrylic paint), choosing exactly the tone of the wood from which the log house is made.

How to work with sealant?

First, the surface must be carefully prepared by removing dust and sanding wood fibers. Then the seams are insulated with a special tape laid between the joints. It is able to increase its size by almost 5 times. In contact with air, the tape swells, expands, filling the gaps, all the cracks in the log house. The sealant does not stick to it, but it has high adhesion to the wood, fixing on it at 2 points. And, thanks to its elasticity, it will then shrink - stretch, simultaneously with the seasonal movement of the tree, without losing its integrity.

The sealing of the seams of the log cabin of the bath with a sealant is carried out with a construction gun or a spray nozzle. If the bath requires perfect work, construction tape or masking tape is glued to the logs. This is done to protect surfaces from excess sealant. The result is beautiful even seams and clean lumber.

The advantage of this method is the speed of work. Processing a log house takes only a few hours. Numerous reviews of builders speak of the excellent properties of sealants, their durability, and ease of use.

Sealants are produced in buckets, briquettes, tapes, tubes of different weights. For long seams, it is more convenient to buy tape. The price of foreign-made materials is several times more expensive than that of domestic counterparts. You can compare their cost (for convenience, taken for 1 kilogram) according to the table:

The birthplace of these "assistants" for sealing the seams is the United States. Later, their release was established by the countries of Europe and Russia. Each company uses identical raw materials - acrylic base. It is produced by several large chemical plants. Russian sealants are famous for their decent quality, so it is not necessary to choose the material that has the highest cost. It is only important not to buy a fake, the production technology of which has been violated.

Sealant for a log house: properties, application technology, prices

Features of working with sealants for wood. The cost of products of different brands per 1 kg: Perma-Chink, Weatherall, Remmers, Neomid, VGT, etc.

Sealants for sealing seams in a wooden house

In houses made of logs and timber of natural moisture, cracks appear very often; this is a hallmark of the material. During shrinkage, the outer layers lose moisture much faster than the inner ones, which is why they also shrink much more, and cracks are the result of excessive tension on the outer layers. In the article on how to seal cracks in log cabins, we talked about various ways to seal cracks in logs or timber, including using sealants. In this article, we will talk about the most popular wood sealants, their price and the reviews of those who used them to seal cracks in a log house.

Popular sealants for timber and logs

Here is a list of sealants that are most popular among log cabin owners:

Perma Chink.
Remmers ACRYL100.
Sazilast STIZ-A, V.
Mapei Silwood.
PENOSIL.
A mixture of PVA with sawdust.

Differences between sealants for wood

The main two parameters that distinguish all the sealants described above are elasticity and price. American sealant Perma Chink- the absolute leader in elasticity, but also the most expensive. Even the cheapest Penosil and Silwood have sufficient elasticity to last 3-7 years without problems. After all, elasticity is necessary so that the sealant can increase and shrink along with the crack, which becomes smaller during summer shrinkage, and expands in autumn and winter, because wood absorbs moisture from the atmosphere.

Insufficient elasticity, less than that of the sealants described above, leads to the fact that the material cracks in winter. Often, cheap Russian and European sealants for wood, as well as materials intended for interior work, behave this way. Such sealants are not designed for large temperature fluctuations, therefore they do not tolerate frost well.

Which sealant is better to choose

When starting to seal cracks, you need to choose the sealant that best suits your conditions. If you have to seal cracks over a large area, then it makes sense to choose inexpensive Silwood sealants from Mapei or Penosil. If you are going to repair a utility room, garage, barn or any other structure made of timber or logs that does not require careful color matching, then the best choice is a mixture of sawdust and PVA. You can take sawdust for free or very cheaply at the nearest carpentry shop or sawmill. If you heat the stove with wood, you can file the sawdust yourself.

Having decided on the brand of sealant, choose between buying a large capacity (15-19 liters), a medium capacity (1-5 liters) or a low capacity (up to 1 liter). The purchase of sealant in containers of large volumes will save up to 20%, compared with the material in small containers. However, the purchase of even one large capacity is justified only if you can work out at least 95% of the sealant. It is known from experience that a 15-20 liter container of sealant is enough to seal 50-150 meters of cracks 2 cm wide, if a sealant made of tow, foamed cellophane, isolon or polyethylene is placed under the sealant.

Equally important is the choice of the correct color of the sealant. After all, the less the color of the sealant differs from the color of the log house, the more beautiful the repaired cracks will look. Moreover, all manufacturers provide at least 6 different colors of sealant, corresponding to different types of wood. If, after repairing cracks, you will cover the log house with paint, then you can use a sealant of any color.

Prices for sealants for seams

Below we have given the approximate cost of materials from various manufacturers in tubes and containers of 19–20 liters. This will help you estimate the cost of the material needed to seal the cracks. However, due to inflation and the unpredictable exchange rate of the ruble, we cannot guarantee that prices in your area will not differ greatly from those indicated here.

the cost of the tube is 300 grams

the cost of a can of 19-20 liters

Neomid Warm House Mineral Professional.

Sazilast STIZ-A, V.

A mixture of PVA with sawdust.

At various construction forums, there are directly opposite assessments of the same material. The main dissatisfaction is caused by the very high cost of sealants, especially if they fill a deep crack, neglecting caulking or the use of various polymer seals. A large number of negative reviews are associated with the use of fake or counterfeit sealants. Often such a sealant cracks and spills out in the first winter.

An objective comparison of sealants by those who used different materials comes down to the fact that the expensive American Perma-Chink has no advantages even compared to even inexpensive Penosil. Both sealants effectively seal cracks, if the technology is followed, then the patch lasts at least 5 years. A mixture of PVA with sawdust does not inspire confidence among those who have never worked with these materials before. If a person happened to glue wood with the help of PVA, then he often prefers the use of this tool to others. Moreover, the use of sawdust, the color of which corresponds to the timber, allows you to create a patch that is not noticeable at all from afar.

Sealant for seams and cracks in a wooden house - which is better?

How to choose a sealant for seams and cracks in a wooden house? Overview of manufacturers and prices for sealants for a wooden house

Choosing a sealant for a log: current varieties and features of their application

An important stage in the construction of wooden houses is the thermal insulation and sealing of the interventional gap. And if tow was traditionally used for these purposes, today a fundamentally new tool has appeared on the market - sealant for logs.

In this article, we will consider what is preferable to use - the usual tow or special formulations. In addition, we will talk about the composition of sealants and how to use them.

Applying and smoothing acrylic composition

But, before proceeding to the story of the reasonable characteristics of these tools, let's find out whether it is necessary to seal the interventional gaps and what are the reasons for using special seals.

Reasons to use interventional seals

Scheme for sealing cracks and cracks

Technological gaps between the log crowns are a normal phenomenon that cannot be avoided during construction work. The presence of cracks, on the one hand, is explained by the imperfectly flat surface of the logs, and, on the other hand, by the deformation of the lumber in the process of shrinkage and shrinkage.

Energy Efficiency Comparison between Conventional Log Walls and Thermally Insulated Walls

What are the reasons for doing this work?

Firstly, the presence of uninsulated gaps provokes significant heat losses, which is especially noticeable during the heating season, when it bleeds from the walls.
Secondly, mezhventsovye gaps are the optimal habitat for various microorganisms, including fungus and insects. The situation is aggravated by the fact that in the event of temperature changes, moisture condenses in the gaps, which provokes an intensive spread of mold infections and decay.
Thirdly, the presence of unsealed gaps makes the wall of the house less stable, which can lead to its subsequent deformations during subsequent operation.

So, we are convinced that there are reasons for the timely sealing of technological gaps. It remains to decide on the current sealing methods and materials that can be used for these purposes.

Seals and sealants

Jute tape in the interventional gap

The range of tools that can be used to seal interventional gaps are divided into two main categories:

Sealers, which include tow jute tape and similar materials of vegetable and synthetic origin, are laid between logs during construction work and / or plugged into cracks during caulking of finished walls.

In the photo, synthetic sealants for sealing seams

The use of sealants is a traditional practice that allows you to achieve good heat and sound insulation properties for walls treated in this way. However, the use of such means has a number of disadvantages.

For example, jute tape becomes caked over time and loses its original heat-insulating properties. In addition, caulking cracks with tow is a labor-intensive and long-term process.

Sealant for sealing joints between logs is a wide range of compounds that are distinguished by a set of components used in production, consistency, degree of elasticity after drying, resistance to environmental factors, resistance to biological factors and of course the price.

Regardless of which sealant you choose to use, this product will have many advantages over traditional caulking sealants. Among the advantages, we note the simplicity and short deadlines for applying with your own hands, the elasticity of the composition and, as a result, greater durability, an attractive appearance of the wall due to the low visibility of a properly selected sealant.

So, we got acquainted with the main characteristics of the means that can be used to seal interventional seams. Let us consider in more detail what modifications the assortment of sealants is presented on the market.

Types of sealants and their distinctive properties

Standard packing of acrylic interventional sealants

Currently, a wide range of sealants prepared on various bases and, as a result, possessing a number of distinctive qualities, is on sale.

Only the correct choice of a suitable composition will achieve the desired result when sealing technological gaps. If the product is not selected correctly, the seal may have a short service life and soon the sealing of the gaps will have to be repeated.

So, what products are on sale and which of them can be used to finish wooden building objects?

First of all, all sealants are divided into two main categories:

One-component products - are sold in the form of ready-to-use gel-like materials, sealed in tubes. The use of a ready-made tool is characterized by additional convenience and ease of use.
Two-component products go on sale in the form of a main component and a hardener. These compositions are prepared immediately before application, that is, the components are mixed in the required proportions, and then used for their intended purpose.

Important: Belonging to one of the previously listed categories does not indicate a high or, conversely, low quality of the purchased product. It simply indicates a different composition and different methods of pre-operational preparation.

At the moment, single-component compositions are most widely used. However, this is not surprising, because it is much easier to insert the tube into the mounting gun and get to work than to mix the base and hardener and only after that proceed with the task.

Sealants can be selected by color

According to the type of base used, the products on sale are divided into the following categories:

Acrylic sealant for sealing rounded logs has been used for several years and has earned the recognition of many experts.

Among the advantages of acrylic compositions, we note low cost and a high degree of adhesion to porous materials. The applied and dried product can be processed with sandpaper, and then coated with various paints and varnishes.

However, acrylic-based compositions have many disadvantages, including a low degree of hydrophobicity and, as a result, poor resistance to precipitation. Moreover, acrylic sealant, as a result of long-term operation, begins to crumble. Therefore, the use of such compounds is allowed only in the interior.

Polyurethane sealant is a universal product that is equally suitable for both external and internal finishing of log structures. Means differs in the increased hydrophobicity and resistance to an atmospheric precipitation. The agent is distinguished by adhesion sufficient for application both on wood and on jute tape.

Polyurethane after drying for a long time retains elasticity and does not crack. Like the acrylic counterpart, this sealant paints well with most types of paints and varnishes.

Bituminous mastic is a liquid solution that is applied to the surface of lumber in order to ensure their waterproofing.

Unfortunately, the tool, due to the presence of bitumen, is painted black, and therefore it cannot be used for grouting joints. On the other hand, bituminous mastic is used in the construction of wooden houses. The strip foundation is covered with mastic to prevent direct contact between wood and concrete.

Silicone sealant is perhaps the most popular and sought-after solution for sealing gaps up to 3 mm wide. The tool is highly elastic even after complete drying, so this gel can be used to treat the walls of the house during the shrinkage process.

Important: Silicone gel is difficult to paint with traditional paints and varnishes. Therefore, when choosing means for applying the bottom to the wood surface, we prefer transparent modifications.

Silicone-based sealants, in turn, are divided into two categories: neutral and acetic (acidic).

It is not difficult to distinguish one product from another, the neutral type of sealant does not have a pronounced odor, while the acetic analogue smells strongly of vinegar. The neutral modification is mainly used for working with metal, while it is better to apply acetic compounds on wood, which are characterized by better adhesion to the porous structure.

Application features

Application of a warm seam Eurotex

Instructions for the use of sealants are not particularly difficult.

We grind the surface to be treated. We do this using an angle grinder angle grinder with a petal disc. We pass with a disk along the logs, removing up to 3 mm of the surface in one pass.
Using a wire nozzle in the form of a brush, we finally level the surface making it smooth.
We remove all dust from the recesses with a vacuum cleaner.
With a non-fluffy rag soaked in thinner, we wipe the joints between the logs in order to remove the remnants of sawdust and dirt.

Tube with sealant in mounting gun

We install the tube with sealant in a special mounting gun and press it with a piston.
By pressing the trigger, we press the piston, squeezing out an even strip of gel.
After going along the entire length of the log, we pull the piston of the gun 1 cm back so that the sealant does not flow out of the tube.
We return to the starting position and coat the applied gel so that it lies in the recess in an even layer.

Now you know what a log house sealant is and how to apply it for its intended purpose.

Sealant for a log: a video instruction for sealing seams in a house with your own hands, a photo and a price

Sealant for sealing joints in a log house

Over time, caulk made from natural materials becomes unusable. Moss and tow have long been abandoned in favor of jute. It is not hygroscopic and is of no interest to rodents and birds. However, it also needs to be updated from time to time.

Recently, more effective materials have appeared on the market - sealants for rounded logs. They are not only a reliable obstacle to drafts and cold, but also perform decorative functions.

Pros and cons of sealing a log house

Modern industry has created a lot of options for plastic raw materials for reliable closing of interventional seams. Acrylic, silicone, containing all kinds of additives and colors, they make the caulk flawless. Their advantages are as follows:

Process speed. If you caulk the seams with jute or tow, you can get bogged down in the process for several weeks, this directly depends on the design of the log house: you need to act carefully so as not to move the crowns themselves with your own efforts. Often, venerable carpenters straighten lopsided logs in this way.

When dealing with sealant, the job can be completed in a day, of course, subject to the right weather. Should be dry and cool. It is not difficult to use a pistol, and an amateur will cope with the job.

The plasticity of the composition. This is an excellent quality for a building subject to constant shrinkage. You can not be afraid of the seam falling out of the joint or temperature changes at which it will crack. An important condition: outdoor wood sealant must be carefully selected, because each of the types has its own purpose and, if applied incorrectly, you can get the worst result.
Durability. The service life of the seam in some cases reaches 20 years, but even if the limit is reached after 10 years, this is much longer than caulking. Jute fiber will have to be replaced after five years of use, and tow even earlier. Slots and seams should be plugged as defects appear in the log house, and you can’t pull it. Therefore, regular preventive maintenance and partial repairs, even a sealed seam, will help to leave the log house in its original state for a long time.
Wood protection. The use of silicone or acrylic sealants will make the interventional grooves practically inaccessible to moisture, and dampness is the main enemy of wood. As a result, mold and fungus will not appear on the seams, the logs will not begin to rot, and the life of the house itself will increase.

In addition, the sealant for wooden joints is made in compliance with all sanitary norms and rules and is safe for humans. Some of them, for example, silicone ones, have a sharp acetic smell during operation, which is eliminated over time.

There is no remedy without flaws. Sealants have them too. For example:

Some species do not tolerate temperature extremes. For example, acrylic wood sealant is used only for internal caulking, in rooms where the temperature is more or less stable. In the cold, it cracks and crumbles.
Silicone sealants are difficult to remove from the surface because the material has good adhesion. This means that you should act carefully and immediately remove sloppy blunders when working.
Speaking about the absolute safety of the sealant, it is important to remember that only branded options have this quality. An unknown manufacturer, as a rule, sins by making compositions that are not according to the standard.

For each type of work, outdoor or indoor, you should select the appropriate type of paste, otherwise there will be no benefit from plastic caulking at home. Their cost varies. Having found out the approximate price of one cylinder, you can solve the question: caulk or sealant for a house made of logs? What will be more profitable?

Types of compositions and their application

Several types are popular in the caulking process:

Acrylic. Differs in the plastic balanced consistence, uniform color, ease of drawing. With it, the log house also receives aesthetic appeal.

They operate with a tuba with a special pistol. The tip of the vial is cut off at the desired angle, it will close the desired width of the seam, and the composition is applied under pressure into the interventional space. Without waiting for complete drying, with a spatula at a right angle to the log, smooth the mass, immediately wiping the drips.

Silicone. This sealant is suitable for interventional seams of a wooden house on the outer walls of a log house, with the condition that the crowns above the second row will be sealed.

This is due to the fact that mold may appear on the seams due to the constant presence of dampness, and the wood will begin to rot around the sealant. They apply it in the manner described above, using gloves and even a respirator for their own protection, because it has a strong smell.

bituminous sealants. They do an excellent job with moisture, but at the same time they clog the natural capillaries of wood, which makes it stop breathing. Bitumen-based sealant can only be used in really damp places and in no case on the ends of logs.

If, nevertheless, sealing is carried out, then in the future the log will be covered with longitudinal cracks. Natural moisture needs an outlet, and wood will solve this problem in its own way.

Polyurethane. Not to be confused with mounting foam! It cannot be used for sealing wood at all, since the porous surface will provoke stagnation of water inside, which will inevitably lead first to the destruction of the foam, and then to the house made of logs with this type of sealant.

The polyurethane composition is absolutely moisture resistant, not letting in frost or drafts. It has no competitors in efficiency, which is why it has such a cost.

Sealants for interventional seams of a wooden house: what is better sealant or caulk

Sealant for sealing joints in a log house